What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?

[RS Wood]

I have never used a wireless mouse but I came across these two this morning
in the attic after moving into a rental property.
https://s23.postimg.org/jq6y47ph3/mouse_003.jpg

One is a Logitech mouse and the other is a Microsoft mouse.
https://s23.postimg.org/5l152egfr/mouse_004.jpg

The landlord said to just throw everything away as the stuff in the attic
belonged to the previous tenant, but I have a Windows XP laptop & a Windows
10 desktop that could use a wireless mouse.

I will put new batteries in them but what else would I need to do in order
to get these two mice working in Windows?

---
El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electrónico en busca de virus.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[Jason]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 00:20:37 +0000 (UTC) "RS Wood" >
wrote in article >
>
> I have never used a wireless mouse but I came across these two this morning
> in the attic after moving into a rental property.
> https://s23.postimg.org/jq6y47ph3/mouse_003.jpg
>
> One is a Logitech mouse and the other is a Microsoft mouse.
> https://s23.postimg.org/5l152egfr/mouse_004.jpg
>
> The landlord said to just throw everything away as the stuff in the attic
> belonged to the previous tenant, but I have a Windows XP laptop & a Windows
> 10 desktop that could use a wireless mouse.
>
> I will put new batteries in them but what else would I need to do in order
> to get these two mice working in Windows?
>
> ---
> El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electrónico en busca de virus.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus

You need the USB-based radio gizmos for those. They may be attached - I
have a Logitec mouse and the "radio" slips into a recess on the bottom of
el mouse and also hits the on/off switch in a clever way. Not sure about
the MS one.

[Paul[_32_]]

RS Wood wrote:
> I have never used a wireless mouse but I came across these two this morning
> in the attic after moving into a rental property.
> https://s23.postimg.org/jq6y47ph3/mouse_003.jpg
>
> One is a Logitech mouse and the other is a Microsoft mouse.
> https://s23.postimg.org/5l152egfr/mouse_004.jpg
>
> The landlord said to just throw everything away as the stuff in the attic
> belonged to the previous tenant, but I have a Windows XP laptop & a Windows
> 10 desktop that could use a wireless mouse.
>
> I will put new batteries in them but what else would I need to do in order
> to get these two mice working in Windows?
>

One of the mice, might have the receiver shoved into
a storage hole.

If you don't have the receiver, each of the mice probably
uses a different receiver. The Logitech one is probably
a "Unifying" receiver, which works with Logitech mice
and keyboards.

"What is Unifying? Logitech Unifying Receiver
One receiver for many devices" [maybe]

http://www.logitech.com/en-ca/promotions/6072

In the old days, you could probably buy a mouse for $20. You could
check the Logitech mouse, see if it has a part number, see if it
has a logo similar to the logo on this, and so on.

https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Unifying-receiver-mouse-keyboard/dp/B0058OU8VY

Compatible with: Logitech wireless mouse M505
Marathon Mouse M705
Logitech Mouse M905
Logitech keyboard K340
Logitech keyboard K350

The Microsoft one might be conceptually the same (2.4GHz),
but operate in a different manner. The "Nano Transceiver".

http://web.archive.org/web/20121128225838/http://www.michaeldornisch.com/2012/07/replace-missing-microsoft-wireless.html

"I called Microsoft at the number below and they said
that it is not possible to replace the transceiver on
a Mobile Mouse 600, they said it can't be paired with
a new transceiver."

So if the transceiver is still stored in the cubby hole
on the Microsoft mouse, you're all set.

For battery operated devices, you also want to examine
the battery contacts. If the battery leaked and corroded
the contacts, just throw them in the trash. I find that
corroded terminals, can encourage new batteries to leak too.
My track record is maybe 50-50 on cleaning the contacts.
Sometimes working well enough to keep, sometimes not.

*******

The transceiver is generally a USB HID class device,
and should perform basic functions with no software
at all.

If the number of switches on a mouse is greater than
three, you can load the Microsoft software to make the
extra buttons work. I don't know if Logitech made
monster mice with more than three buttons or not. It
might have been the Logitech Trackman that had software.

This would be an example of Microsoft software, for
extra button functions and so on.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IntelliPoint

But you should really be using the model numbers
off the bottom of the device, to dig up the
details for each model.

In some cases, you want specific versions of Intellipoint,
if, for example, you want a newer mouse to work with an
older OS like WinXP. The latest package may have dropped
support for the thing you're holding there.

In any case, if you have all the bits and pieces, you
should be able to plug them in and try them. Even without
hitting Google.

The last Microsoft mouse I bought, has five buttons. Left
and right mouse. Clicky Scroll wheel. And two side buttons. The
two side buttons don't do anything - but I'm also too
lazy to load any software, so they'll remain that way.
If I "armed" them, they'd just be a nuisance.

Paul

[Micky]

In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Tue, 31 Jan 2017 00:20:37
+0000 (UTC), RS Wood > wrote:

>I have never used a wireless mouse but I came across these two this morning
>in the attic after moving into a rental property.
>https://s23.postimg.org/jq6y47ph3/mouse_003.jpg

They are mating. Do not disturb them.

>One is a Logitech mouse and the other is a Microsoft mouse.
>https://s23.postimg.org/5l152egfr/mouse_004.jpg

Some people disapprove of mixed relationships like theirs.
>
>The landlord said to just throw everything away as the stuff in the attic
>belonged to the previous tenant, but I have a Windows XP laptop & a Windows
>10 desktop that could use a wireless mouse.
>
>I will put new batteries in them but what else would I need to do in order
>to get these two mice working in Windows?

You should be careful. They are paired with the previous tenant's
computer and what you do will have an effect on is computer, if it's
turned on.

You can buy a Logitech wireless keyboard and it will come with a
receiver. I bought something at a hamfest and when I got home it wasn't
what I thought it was. I forget what it was but it was a third thing
that works with the sme receiver. Upi cam ise i[ tp 6 things at a
time, but that sounds confusing.

I don't know about MS.

>---
>El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electrónico en busca de virus.
>https://www.avast.com/antivirus

[RS Wood]

On Mon, 30 Jan 2017 21:13:16 -0500, Jason > wrote:

> You need the USB-based radio gizmos for those. They may be attached - I
> have a Logitec mouse and the "radio" slips into a recess on the bottom of
> el mouse and also hits the on/off switch in a clever way. Not sure about
> the MS one.

That was the secret!

Both mice had a USB gizmo slipped into a recess inside!
https://s23.postimg.org/ugukpw33r/mouse_006.jpg

So, all I had to do was:
1. Put new batteries in (Logitech had 1 AA, MS had 2 AAA batteries)
2. Put the small attached paired recessed USB gizmo in the computer
3. Wait for a bunch of installing-hardware messages on the computer
5. Turn on the mouse button on the bottom

And that was it!

BTW, I hate AAA batteries. I never buy anything that has AAA batteries (or
button batteries) if I can help it, preferring AA batteries if I can. Thy
shouldn't even make AAA batteries, since they cost the same as AA and yet
they have half the power, so the Microsoft mouse is more poorly designed
(two AAA batteries) than the Logitech mouse (1 AA battery). I could see if
it only needed 1 AAA battery, the size difference might make a difference
(but not in a mouse), but once you have to put in more than 1 AAA battery,
they don't make any economic sense, so I never buy things with AAA
batteries by design.

Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just let
them go to sleep on their own?

[UnsteadyKen[_2_]]

In article >, says...
> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just let
> them go to sleep on their own?
>

I use a logitech mouse with my LG Linux TV.

I've had it for over 6 months, leave it switched on all the time and the
original (alkaline) battery is still going strong.
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-mouse-m310

[RS Wood]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 10:37:06 -0000, UnsteadyKen
> wrote:

> I use a logitech mouse with my LG Linux TV.
>
> I've had it for over 6 months, leave it switched on all the time and the
> original (alkaline) battery is still going strong.
> http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/wireless-mouse-m310

Thanks for that input on leaving the mouse power set to the "on" position.
https://s23.postimg.org/9ioert393/mouse_005.jpg

I do like that the Logitech mouse I have has only 1 AA battery, which has
the same power (but half the cost) of the two AAA batteries that the
Microsoft mouse uses.

However, what I liked better about the MS mouse is that the USB gizmo can
be stored and popped off without having to open the battery door.

On the Logitech mouse, you have to open the battery door to access the USB
gizmo, which would be just another pain for someone who doesn't keep it in
the computer all the time.

So, with only a few hours of experience, here's my wish list for USB mice.
0. The buttons, scroll, overall feel has work well overall!
1. The battery is a standard AA battery size (one battery or two is OK).
2. The USB gizmo stores/removes easily (not in the battery compartment!).
3. The power has a switch (for long term storage) but has auto shutoff.

What else matters in a wireless mouse?

[Kerr Mudd-John]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 09:18:17 -0000, RS Wood > wrote:

[]
>
> BTW, I hate AAA batteries. I never buy anything that has AAA batteries
[]
I've seen cheapo Chinese (where else?) AA batteries that were AAA's in a
sleeve!

>
> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
> let
> them go to sleep on their own?

Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.


--
Bah, and indeed, Humbug

[RS Wood]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John > wrote:

>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
>> let
>> them go to sleep on their own?
>
> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.

I have rechargeable batteries.

The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.

I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal impedance
is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as Alkaline batteries
do.

They lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They will
last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last, so, that
means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is unused.

The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work (it
generally does for most things, but not all things).

[Kerr Mudd-John]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 -0000, RS Wood > wrote:

> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John >
> wrote:
>
>>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
>>> let
>>> them go to sleep on their own?
>>
>> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.
>
> I have rechargeable batteries.
>
> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>
> I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal
> impedance
> is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as Alkaline batteries
> do.
>
> They lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
> internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They will
> last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last, so,
> that
> means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is unused.
>
> The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work (it
> generally does for most things, but not all things).

It does for my family's mice (I'm happier with a wired one, being stuck in
the past)

--
Bah, and indeed, Humbug

[knuttle]

On 1/31/2017 7:03 AM, Kerr Mudd-John wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 -0000, RS Wood > wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John >
>> wrote:
>>
>>>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
>>>> let
>>>> them go to sleep on their own?
>>>
>>> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.
>>
>> I have rechargeable batteries.
>>
>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
>> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>>
>> I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal
>> impedance
>> is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as Alkaline batteries
>> do.
>>
>> They lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
>> internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They will
>> last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last, so,
>> that
>> means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is unused.
>>
>> The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work (it
>> generally does for most things, but not all things).
>
> It does for my family's mice (I'm happier with a wired one, being stuck
> in the past)
>
I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.

[Char Jackson]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 08:08:32 -0500, knuttle >
wrote:

>I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.

I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
months.

[Keith Nuttle]

On 1/31/2017 10:13 AM, Char Jackson wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 08:08:32 -0500, knuttle >
> wrote:
>
>> I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>> have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.
>
> I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
> months.
>
I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use.

[RS Wood]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
wrote:

> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.

I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of
the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with
them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the
voltage works.

Here's the Costco Item #1083517 battery package which I think I paid 30
bucks for 8 AA batteries and 4 AAA batteries, and a charger, so it's
impossible to figure out the price per battery. If we assume the charger is
about one third to one half the price that leaves the 12 batteries at about
$1.50 to $1.25 per battery.
https://www.costco.com/Panasonic-Eneloop-Rechargeable-Battery-Kit.product.100308742.html

The Kirkland AAA batteries I currently have in the Logitech mouse is Costco
Item #1083517 which is $20 for 64 batteries, or 31 cents each.
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-AAA-Alkaline-Batteries-64-pk%2c-2%2b-Pack-Pricing.product.100308039.html

The Kirkland AA battery I have in the Microsoft mouse is Costco Item
#922275 at $19 for 72 batteries, or 26 cents each.
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-AA-Alkaline-Batteries-72-pk%2c-2%2b-Pack-Pricing.product.100308038.html

[Char Jackson]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:07:16 -0500, Keith Nuttle
> wrote:

>On 1/31/2017 10:13 AM, Char Jackson wrote:
>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 08:08:32 -0500, knuttle >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>>> have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.
>>
>> I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
>> months.
>>
>I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use.

Duracell alkaline.

I'm on my 4th M705, (the switch under the left button wears out), and
all of them eat batteries at the rate of a pair every 18-24 months, so
if you have an M705 that eats batteries in 4 weeks, something is
definitely wrong.

[Char Jackson]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
wrote:

>On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
>wrote:
>
>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
>> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>
>I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of
>the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with
>them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the
>voltage works.

I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came
branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name.

[Char Jackson]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:40:51 -0500, Wolf K > wrote:

>On 2017-01-31 11:07, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 1/31/2017 10:13 AM, Char Jackson wrote:
>>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 08:08:32 -0500, knuttle >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>>>> have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.
>>>
>>> I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
>>> months.
>>>
>> I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use.
>
>My wireless (BlueTooth) mouse has a switch. I turn it off when not in
>use. Sofar, it's lasted almost 3 years.

The M705 also has a switch, but I only use it when I'm tossing the mouse
into my backpack for travel. For everyday use, there's no need to turn
it off.

[mike[_10_]]

On 1/31/2017 8:20 AM, RS Wood wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
> wrote:
>
>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
>> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>
> I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of
> the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with
> them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the
> voltage works.
>
> Here's the Costco Item #1083517 battery package which I think I paid 30
> bucks for 8 AA batteries and 4 AAA batteries, and a charger, so it's
> impossible to figure out the price per battery. If we assume the charger is
> about one third to one half the price that leaves the 12 batteries at about
> $1.50 to $1.25 per battery.
> https://www.costco.com/Panasonic-Eneloop-Rechargeable-Battery-Kit.product.100308742.html
>
> The Kirkland AAA batteries I currently have in the Logitech mouse is Costco
> Item #1083517 which is $20 for 64 batteries, or 31 cents each.
> https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-AAA-Alkaline-Batteries-64-pk%2c-2%2b-Pack-Pricing.product.100308039.html
>
> The Kirkland AA battery I have in the Microsoft mouse is Costco Item
> #922275 at $19 for 72 batteries, or 26 cents each.
> https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-AA-Alkaline-Batteries-72-pk%2c-2%2b-Pack-Pricing.product.100308038.html
>
I've had good luck with eneloops in 2xAA keyboards.
They just don't have enough voltage for single AA mice.
I just use alkalines in all these devices.
I worry more about leaky batteries due to old age than the cost of the
cells. Can't remember the last time I changed 'em.

I'm guessing that Bluetooth mice would use more juice and might
be better candidates for NiMH cells. All my BT mice are two-cell.
I've never used one long
enough to know or care about battery life.

[Paul[_32_]]

Char Jackson wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
> wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
>>> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>> I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of
>> the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with
>> them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the
>> voltage works.
>
> I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came
> branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name.
>

They're nickel metal hydride. "A lot safer technology" :-)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop

low self-discharge NiMH
developed by Sanyo (later acquired by Panasonic)

The low self-discharge would make them good for a mouse.

Paul

[RS Wood]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:47:54 -0600, Char Jackson > wrote:

> I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came
> branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name.

Funny you mention that because I have the older Sanyo green paper ones from
Costco and the Sanyo branded chargers too, so, I have both, but I never
realized Sanyo Eneloops became Panasonic Eneloops (changing from green to
blue in the process).

The reason I say they're crappy should be stated that they're really not
high density. You can just tell from how light they are although I should
look at the amp-hour figures on the side which is the spec I'm discussing.

I find, in use, they go flat sooner than do akalines, which is why I call
them 'crappy'. In effect, they're just not high charge density.

I don't think I'll ever buy them again though, although I have at least
three of the chargers so I've bought them at least three times. The reason
is that the chargers require pairs, and there is really no good reason for
that.

If I needed more, I'd spend the time to find two things:
1. A charger that charges individual cells (they don't cost any more)
2. Batteries with higher charge density (aka amp hours)

If you know of any, let us know.

[mike[_10_]]

On 1/31/2017 10:38 AM, RS Wood wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:47:54 -0600, Char Jackson > wrote:
>
>> I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came
>> branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name.
>
> Funny you mention that because I have the older Sanyo green paper ones from
> Costco and the Sanyo branded chargers too, so, I have both, but I never
> realized Sanyo Eneloops became Panasonic Eneloops (changing from green to
> blue in the process).
>
> The reason I say they're crappy should be stated that they're really not
> high density. You can just tell from how light they are although I should
> look at the amp-hour figures on the side which is the spec I'm discussing.
>
> I find, in use, they go flat sooner than do akalines, which is why I call
> them 'crappy'. In effect, they're just not high charge density.
>
> I don't think I'll ever buy them again though, although I have at least
> three of the chargers so I've bought them at least three times. The reason
> is that the chargers require pairs, and there is really no good reason for
> that.
>
> If I needed more, I'd spend the time to find two things:
> 1. A charger that charges individual cells (they don't cost any more)
> 2. Batteries with higher charge density (aka amp hours)
>
> If you know of any, let us know.
>
The enloops seem to have the best reputation of ANY NiMH LSD cells.
I quit buying other brands.

They have gone thru several generations. Newer ones seem to have
backed down the capacity spec in favor of lower self-discharge.
I found that the versions sold by Costco seem to be not the latest
version. Not sure that matters much tho.

The charger supplied with the packages has also changed over the years.
Went from individual charge to pairs and back to individual.
Most of my devices use 1 or 3 cells, so individual charge is important
to me too.
The charger currently at Costco is the BQ-CC55. Charges individual
cells and has much better indication of state of charge than previous
versions.

For high current loads, eneloops are vastly superior to alkalines
for cost. I've also never had one leak and destroy the device.
That seems to be happening more and more with alkalines. I wouldn't
buy a Duracell unless I intended to use it up soon.

For low current devices, the cost differential is irrelevant.
Many devices, especially older ones, NiMH spends most of it's discharge
capacity at a voltage too low for reliable operation. None of my
"atomic" clocks will run more than a week on NiMH before the voltage
gets too low.

[Keith Nuttle]

On 1/31/2017 12:43 PM, Char Jackson wrote:
>>> I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
>>> months.
>>>
>> I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use.
> Duracell alkaline.
>
> I'm on my 4th M705, (the switch under the left button wears out), and
> all of them eat batteries at the rate of a pair every 18-24 months, so
> if you have an M705 that eats batteries in 4 weeks, something is
> definitely wrong.
>
I also use Alkaline batteries, and turn of the mouse when ever I am not
using it. I have tried several wireless mice, with the same results.
Still use batteries at a rate of every 3 to 4 weeks.

I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse
when I accidentally put the wire out of it.

[Paul[_32_]]

Wolf K wrote:
> On 2017-01-31 15:05, Keith Nuttle wrote:
>> On 1/31/2017 12:43 PM, Char Jackson wrote:
>>>>> I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24
>>>>> months.
>>>>>
>>>> I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use.
>>> Duracell alkaline.
>>>
>>> I'm on my 4th M705, (the switch under the left button wears out), and
>>> all of them eat batteries at the rate of a pair every 18-24 months, so
>>> if you have an M705 that eats batteries in 4 weeks, something is
>>> definitely wrong.
>>>
>> I also use Alkaline batteries, and turn of the mouse when ever I am not
>> using it. I have tried several wireless mice, with the same results.
>> Still use batteries at a rate of every 3 to 4 weeks.
>>
>> I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse
>
> I'm using lithium batteries for everything these days. They cost about
> 4x as much as bargain alkalines and last 8x to 10x longer.
>
> Have a good day,
>

This article will make it clear what you bought.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery

"Lithium-iron", "Li/Fe". Called "voltage-compatible" lithium,
because it can work as a replacement for alkaline batteries
with its 1.5 V nominal voltage. As such, Energizer lithium
cells of AA and AAA size employ this chemistry. 2.5 times higher
lifetime for high current discharge regime than alkaline batteries,
better storage life due to lower self-discharge, 10–20 years
storage time. FeS2 is cheap. Cathode often designed as a paste
of iron sulfide powder mixed with powdered graphite. Variant
is Li-CuFeS2.

That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery
pack cell.

If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up.
Look at the nice discharge curve.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/choices_of_primary_batteries

Paul

[Keith Nuttle]

On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote:
>
> That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery
> pack cell.
>
> If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up.
> Look at the nice discharge curve.
>
> http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/choices_of_primary_batteries
I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take
a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get
about 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced.

So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the
lithium AA batteries.

[Jess Fertudei]

"Paul" > wrote in message
...
> Char Jackson wrote:
>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells. Enviro brand I think they're
>>>> called. Blue paper labels.
>>> I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set
>>> of
>>> the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came
>>> with
>>> them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the
>>> voltage works.
>>
>> I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came
>> branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name.
>>
>
> They're nickel metal hydride. "A lot safer technology" :-)
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop
>
> low self-discharge NiMH
> developed by Sanyo (later acquired by Panasonic)
>
> The low self-discharge would make them good for a mouse.
>
> Paul


Dating back to when digital cameras ran on AA, I was using Eneloops with
great results. My Pentax Kx camera ran on Eneloops with fairly demanding
needs. My Pentax K5II uses specialty batteries but has a AA adapter for the
grip that I keep for emergencies... my bag moves from house to car and sits
there for 8 or 12 hours at a time with only topping off the charge once or
twice a year... and when I had just such an emergency a while back they
performed just fine.

I have a 2meter radio hand unit that I have an adapter for a trunk mount
antenna and lighter fed battery pack in the car that it is nearly always
running on (wtih a cabled mic it is nearly a hard-wire). I rarely use the
radio outside of the car but when I do, the battery pack adapter with
Eneloops in it (that are in the glove through 100F or -10F weather) always
has enough ummmpfff to operate for a fair number of hours.

I run my Logitech M305 on an Eneloop that lasts a few months, always on,
with changing amounts of use. Since I am using them in clocks and such, as
well, I keep a little container for dead and one for charged and when I get
4 dead I put them in my LaCrosse BC-700 charger on 200 charge (the lower the
charge rate the longer the battery lives and so far I think they pretty much
live forever) overnight and I'm good to go. I have more than I need and
bought them at Amazon.

I love my Eneloops and wouldn't use anything else.

Here is an article, somewhat dated now, that talks about test results on
these batteries. I thought I had a link here for an updated version but I
guess not.


http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/low_self_discharge.html

[Jess Fertudei]

"Keith Nuttle" > wrote in message
...
> On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote:
>>
>> That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery
>> pack cell.
>>
>> If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up.
>> Look at the nice discharge curve.
>>
>> http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/choices_of_primary_batteries
> I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take a
> lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get about 2
> to four weeks before they have to be replaced.
>
> So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the lithium
> AA batteries.

Yes. See my reply elsewhere in this thread. Have used Eneloops from Amazon
for cameras for years.

[Mike Tomlinson]

En el artículo >, knuttle
> escribió:

>I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.

Oh, how *awful*. You poor dear.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

In message >, Wolf K
> writes:
>On 2017-01-31 15:05, Keith Nuttle wrote:
[]
>> I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse
[]
It's a while since I saw one, but then I haven't looked for it: a mouse
that went into a charger when not in use. (I think it used some ordinary
AA type of rechargeable - might even have been two.) I _think_ the
charger plugged into USB (actually I think it was combined with the
wireless receiver, so was on the desk anyway).
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Cumulatively, however, they do get my goat, on my wick and up my nose, to the
extent I am angry enough to stick a wick up a goat's nose and to hell with the
consequences. - Eddie Mair, RT 2016/2/27-3/4

[J. P. Gilliver (John)]

In message >, Keith Nuttle
> writes:
>On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote:
>>
>> That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery
>> pack cell.
>>
>> If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up.
>> Look at the nice discharge curve.
>>
>> http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/choices_of_primary_batteries
>I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not
>take a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I
>get about 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced.
>
>So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the
>lithium AA batteries.

I use ordinary nickel metal hydride, but the sort that have longer
retention times (lower self-discharge). A lot of them claim at least 90%
charge remaining after a year; the "normal" NiMH type seem to me to run
down (i. e. self-discharge, even if not in anything) in sufficiently few
weeks (I too take few pictures) that my "spare set" were often no good
when I needed them. The longer retention types (many of the common makes
make a variety with this property, as well as own-brand [such as, in UK,
7dayshop]) tend to cost about the same, but have somewhat lower capacity
- the current limit seems to be, for AA, about 2.9 Ah (2900 mAh if you
must!) for the "normal" type, and about 2 Ah for the low-discharge type.
(For me, the chance of them actually having any charge left when I want
them far outweighs the lower theoretical capacity.) Since I became aware
of these type, I've not bought any of the other. They (the
low-self-discharge ones) are often sold charged, unlike normal
rechargeables; I've used some I bought (since they were a good price in
one of our discount supermarkets [Lidl]) well over a year after I bought
them, and they were fine (still had plenty of go in them).
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Cumulatively, however, they do get my goat, on my wick and up my nose, to the
extent I am angry enough to stick a wick up a goat's nose and to hell with the
consequences. - Eddie Mair, RT 2016/2/27-3/4

[Andy Burns[_6_]]

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

> It's a while since I saw one, but then I haven't looked for it: a mouse
> that went into a charger when not in use.

I've used bluetooth mice that take AA batteries for ages (I've just had
to retire a 15 year old one due to sticky rubber issues) I would have
preferred to stick with AA, but other factors meant the replacement has
a rechargeable LiPo battery which is charged by a microUSB cable that
attaches where the mouse lead would come out of a wired mouse, so you
can use it reasonably well even while charging.

[Johnny B Good]

On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000, RS Wood wrote:

> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John >
> wrote:
>
>>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you
>>> just let them go to sleep on their own?
>>
>> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.
>
> I have rechargeable batteries.
>
> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.

I suspect you meant to say NiMH

> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.

Sounds like the low self discharge variety of NiMH

>
> I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal
> impedance is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as
> Alkaline batteries do.

That describes NiMH rather than Lithium technology 1.2v (end of
discharge point) versus 3.6v of a *single* Lithium rechargeable cell.

>
> The lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
> internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They
> will last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last,
> so, that means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is
> unused.

Lithium cells are low impedance and capable of holding their charge for
years if a pair of cells recovered from a scrapped laptop battery a few
years ago is any guide. However, they're not available in AAA or AA
sizes. The Lithium primary cells supplied in a package that looks like a
pair of AA cells glued together intended as a drop in alternative to the
pair of AA cells in a camera are actually just a single 3.2v cell.

>
> The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work
> (it generally does for most things, but not all things).

Battery powered kit, if properly designed to be powered from batteries
made up of 1.5v cells, is normally intended to keep working until the
voltage per cell drops down to 1 volt. Since NiMH and NiCad still have an
open circuit voltage of 1.2v when completely discharged and the mouse, as
you surmised, is a low drain application, there oughtn't be any problem
using Eneloop or their equivilent (usually sold as pre-charged "Ready for
Use" NiMH cells).

--
Johnny B Good

[J. P. Gilliver (John)[_4_]]

In message >, Johnny B Good
> writes:
[]
> Lithium cells are low impedance and capable of holding their charge for
>years if a pair of cells recovered from a scrapped laptop battery a few
>years ago is any guide. However, they're not available in AAA or AA
>sizes. The Lithium primary cells supplied in a package that looks like a
>pair of AA cells glued together intended as a drop in alternative to the
>pair of AA cells in a camera are actually just a single 3.2v cell.
[]
Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.

(I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Humans landed on the moon before we put wheels on our luggage.

[Mark Lloyd[_2_]]

On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

[snip]

> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
>

I have a couple of strings of solar-powered LED christmas lights. They
use 3.2V lithium iron polymer cells that come in AA size. From what I
found on the internet, a lot of devices use 4/5AA size but these take
full AA.

> (I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)


--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"It ain't the parts of the Bible that I can't understand that bother me,
it is the parts that I do understand." -- Mark Twain

[Tim[_8_]]

Mark Lloyd > wrote in news:y6umA.11574$1w1.2394
@fx35.iad:

> On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
>> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
>> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
>> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
>> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
>>
Besides the lithium primary cells that are direct replacements for AA and
AAA cells, there are Li-Ion rechargeable cells available in the AA
(14500) and AAA(10440) form factors. They are 3.7 volt nominal, which
means fully charged they provide 4.2v, and drop to around 3.0v as they
are used. This means that if they were used as direct replacements for
alkaline cells the device they were placed in would quickly cease to
function unless it was designed to use either voltage, like some
flashlights are. I have successfully used a single 14500 cell and a dummy
cell to replace two AA cells, but was taking a risk in doing so. Throw in
the need for proper rechargers and the more extensive safety requirements
of Li-Ion cells, and it just makes sense to use Lithium primaries
instead. I refuse to use alkaline cells in any of my devices due to their
tendency to leak and destroy whatever they have been placed in.

And yes, while decent alkaline cells can be found for fifty cents each,
while primary lithium cells start at a little over a dollar each with
judicial shopping, the lithium cells usually have double the lifetime of
alkaline cells as well as better temperature operating ranges. To me the
slight additional cost taking all that into affect is a cheap premium to
pay for guaranteed lack of leakage.

FYI, there is a cell available that is Li-Ion, but contains circuitry to
provide 1.5v output, but it has not proven itself in the marketplace yet,
and has not gained market acceptance.

[Kerr Mudd-John]

On Wed, 08 Feb 2017 01:02:21 -0000, Mark Lloyd > wrote:

> On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
>> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
>> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
>> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
>> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
>>
>
> I have a couple of strings of solar-powered LED christmas lights. They
> use 3.2V lithium iron polymer cells that come in AA size. From what I
> found on the internet, a lot of devices use 4/5AA size but these take
> full AA.
>
>> (I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)
>
>
I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some now
defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2 AA, at
a time).

I've changed the header, as we've veered off mice.

--
Bah, and indeed, Humbug

[Kerr Mudd-John]

On Wed, 08 Feb 2017 01:02:21 -0000, Mark Lloyd > wrote:

> On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
>> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
>> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
>> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
>> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
>>
>
> I have a couple of strings of solar-powered LED christmas lights. They
> use 3.2V lithium iron polymer cells that come in AA size. From what I
> found on the internet, a lot of devices use 4/5AA size but these take
> full AA.
>
>> (I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)
>
>
I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some now
defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2 AA, at
a time).

I've changed the header, as we've veered off mice.

--
Bah, and indeed, Humbug

[Paul[_32_]]

Kerr Mudd-John wrote:
> On Wed, 08 Feb 2017 01:02:21 -0000, Mark Lloyd > wrote:
>
>> On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
>>
>> [snip]
>>
>>> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
>>> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
>>> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
>>> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
>>> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
>>>
>>
>> I have a couple of strings of solar-powered LED christmas lights. They
>> use 3.2V lithium iron polymer cells that come in AA size. From what I
>> found on the internet, a lot of devices use 4/5AA size but these take
>> full AA.
>>
>>> (I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)
>>
>>
> I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some
> now defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2
> AA, at a time).
>
> I've changed the header, as we've veered off mice.
>

That battery is from a garden light.

http://batteriesplus.co.uk/acatalog/3.2V_AA_LiFePO4_250mAh_rechargeable_batteries_for_ Solar_Lights.html

*******

Check the "temperament" of the chemistry first.
LiFePO4 is lower specific energy than LiCoO2.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion

Then look at a typical CC-CV charging method.

Notice that the various chemistries use radically different
voltage endpoints.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries

And that means, you need the "right" charger for the job. And
in a quick search, I'm not seeing one. That doesn't mean
a programmable charger couldn't do it, or maybe a custom
design you made at home in your basement. If I was building
a charger for that, I'd probably just implement the CC
portion, avoid the CV, and fill the battery to 70-80%
full each time.

There are plenty of precision charger chips, if you're bored
and want to do it right. And the nice thing about this
chemistry (if there is a "nice thing"), is it doesn't
use dV/dt like the chemistries we used before Lithium ion.
Those were a bitch - the dV/dt endpoint is quite small, and you
need a safety timer, just in case you miss the endpoint...

Paul

[Jeff]

"Kerr Mudd-John" > wrote:

> On Wed, 08 Feb 2017 01:02:21 -0000, Mark Lloyd > wrote:
>
> > On 02/07/2017 03:50 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
> >
> > [snip]
> >
> >> Actually, they _are_ available in AA size - I work on a product that
> >> uses one. Not _widely_ available, because I presume of the fact that
> >> they _are_ (slightly more than) double the voltage, and the
> >> manufacturers don't want people getting hold of them and putting them
> >> into ordinary AA holders and damaging things.
> >>
> >
> > I have a couple of strings of solar-powered LED christmas lights. They
> > use 3.2V lithium iron polymer cells that come in AA size. From what I
> > found on the internet, a lot of devices use 4/5AA size but these take
> > full AA.
> >
> >> (I agree, the person you were replying to almost certainly meant NiMH.)
> >
> >
> I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some now
> defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2 AA, at
> a time).
>
> I've changed the header, as we've veered off mice.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Two-14500-Rechargable-Batteries/dp/B00FYMPSGA

https://www.amazon.com/BUNDLE-Nitecore-Battery-Lightjunction-Keychain/dp/B00YFK85B2

https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Digicharger-EASTSHINE-Battery-Charger/dp/B00KW2ZDHQ

HTH

[Kerr Mudd-John]

On Wed, 08 Feb 2017 16:50:53 -0000, Paul > wrote:

> Kerr Mudd-John wrote:
[]

>> I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some
>> now defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2
>> AA, at a time).
>> I've changed the header, as we've veered off mice.
>>
>
> That battery is from a garden light.
>
> http://batteriesplus.co.uk/acatalog/3.2V_AA_LiFePO4_250mAh_rechargeable_batteries_for_ Solar_Lights.html
>
> *******
Yes!

[]
> And that means, you need the "right" charger for the job. And
> in a quick search, I'm not seeing one. That doesn't mean
[]

Ah well it's not that important to me. Maybe I could just stick it in
another solar light (100 LED string) and hope for the best?!



--
Bah, and indeed, Humbug

[Brian Gregory]

On 31/01/2017 11:33, RS Wood wrote:
> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John > wrote:
>
>>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
>>> let
>>> them go to sleep on their own?
>>
>> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.
>
> I have rechargeable batteries.
>
> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>
> I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal impedance
> is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as Alkaline batteries
> do.
>
> They lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
> internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They will
> last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last, so, that
> means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is unused.
>
> The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work (it
> generally does for most things, but not all things).
>

They can't be Lithium.

There are no rechargeable Lithium with less that about 3.6 volts per cell.

Are you sure they're not NiMH.

--

Brian Gregory (in the UK).
To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

[Brian Gregory]

On 03/02/2017 14:20, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> En el artículo >, knuttle
> > escribió:
>
>> I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to
>> have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks.
>
> Oh, how *awful*. You poor dear.
>

Idiot.

He didn't say anything about it being a problem.

--

Brian Gregory (in the UK).
To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

[Brian Gregory]

On 08/02/2017 11:01, Kerr Mudd-John wrote:
> I have one grey 3,2V 250mAh "14500" AA sized battery that was in some
> now defunct toy. I don't know how to charge it! (my std charger needs 2
> AA, at a time).

Don't try to charge it unless you very carefully investigate the charger
parameters needed to charge it safely and get a charger that will
definitely not try to charge it too quickly or to overcharge it.

If you get it wrong it could explode.

--

Brian Gregory (in the UK).
To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

[Paul[_32_]]

Brian Gregory wrote:
> On 31/01/2017 11:33, RS Wood wrote:
>> On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:06:15 -0000, Kerr Mudd-John >
>> wrote:
>>
>>>> Do you normally turn these mice off each night manually, or do you just
>>>> let
>>>> them go to sleep on their own?
>>>
>>> Get rechargeable ones, then not so much to worry about.
>>
>> I have rechargeable batteries.
>>
>> The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells.
>> Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels.
>>
>> I'll see if they work since the voltage is lower and the internal
>> impedance
>> is lower, which means they "might" not work as well as Alkaline batteries
>> do.
>>
>> They lithium batteries will put out more current (because of the lower
>> internal impedance) but for a mouse, more current isn't needed. They will
>> last long in storage, probably as long as the Alkaline ones last, so,
>> that
>> means they'll keep their charge over time if the mouse is unused.
>>
>> The differentiator will likely be whether the lower voltage will work (it
>> generally does for most things, but not all things).
>>
>
> They can't be Lithium.
>
> There are no rechargeable Lithium with less that about 3.6 volts per cell.
>
> Are you sure they're not NiMH.
>

BatteryUniversity has some examples.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion

LiCoO2 3.60V nominal, charges to 4.20V (most cells)
LiFePO4 3.2V nominal, charges to 3.65V
Li4Ti5O12 2.40V nominal, charges to 2.85V

LiFePO4 is used in solar-powered garden lights. Probably
for the low rate of self-discharge.

HTH,
Paul

[Mike Tomlinson]

En el artículo >, Brian
Gregory > escribió:

>He didn't say anything about it being a problem.

He did, in fact. He said he went back to using a wired mouse because
the batteries in the wireless one "only" lasted three to four weeks,
which is ludicrous.

Try working on your English comprehension, and have a doctor look at
that nasty knee-jerk reaction.

Idiot.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 10 Feb 2017 05:46:31 +0000, Mike Tomlinson >
wrote:

>En el artículo >, Brian
>Gregory > escribió:
>
>>He didn't say anything about it being a problem.
>
>He did, in fact. He said he went back to using a wired mouse because
>the batteries in the wireless one "only" lasted three to four weeks,
>which is ludicrous.
>
>Try working on your English comprehension, and have a doctor look at
>that nasty knee-jerk reaction.
>
>Idiot.

PLONK

[Jess Fertudei]

"Jess Fertudei" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Keith Nuttle" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote:
>>>
>>> That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery
>>> pack cell.
>>>
>>> If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up.
>>> Look at the nice discharge curve.
>>>
>>> http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/choices_of_primary_batteries
>> I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take
>> a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get about
>> 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced.
>>
>> So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the lithium
>> AA batteries.
>
> Yes. See my reply elsewhere in this thread. Have used Eneloops from Amazon
> for cameras for years.
>
>

Was just informed by someone in another group that I mis-replied here
(usenet is getting smaller by the moment). You asked about lithiums, not
rechargeables and I answered as if you had. Sorry. I use Eneloop nimh
rechargeables.

Sheesh. Hope that makes someone happy...


Interesting that this thread is still active.