O.T. Speakers static/humming
I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. (1) TB HD Intel (R) Core (TM) i7-33-3770 CPU @ 3.40 GHz Ram 12.0 GB System type : 64-bit operating system I also have I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. Intel (R) Core 2 Duo 2.93 GHz 4GB RAM, 750 GB HD System type : 64-bit operating system and (external hard drives) (8500) WD BLACK SERIES WD2003FZEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (780) Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive The problem concerns the 8500; I have an intermittent problem, for some reason when I logged on today there's a humming/buzzing sound coming from the speakers. This has happened several times recently. I haven't done a thing other than logging on. I tried restarting and disconnecting and reconnecting the speaker connections but it doesn't seem to go away until I power off/on. So what could this be? Thoughts/suggestions Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. (1) TB HD Intel (R) Core (TM) i7-33-3770 CPU @ 3.40 GHz Ram 12.0 GB System type : 64-bit operating system I also have I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. Intel (R) Core 2 Duo 2.93 GHz 4GB RAM, 750 GB HD System type : 64-bit operating system and (external hard drives) (8500) WD BLACK SERIES WD2003FZEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (780) Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive The problem concerns the 8500; I have an intermittent problem, for some reason when I logged on today there's a humming/buzzing sound coming from the speakers. This has happened several times recently. I haven't done a thing other than logging on. I tried restarting and disconnecting and reconnecting the speaker connections but it doesn't seem to go away until I power off/on. So what could this be? Thoughts/suggestions Robert Debug by section. 1) Plug headphones into the LineOut Jack of the 8500, where the speakers are currently connected. Is the headphone sound clean ? 2) Plug a portable source (Sony Walkman, iPod, or similar) to the speakers. Is the humming and buzzing still there, with a driven source (that floats with respect to AC) ? I even have a transistor radio that will serve for this purpose (an FM radio with a synthesizer tuner). It's possible the amplified speakers have a leaking cap in the power supply section. Since you had a "power event" at your place, and all your gear operated for a time at the wrong voltage, just about anything could be wrong with it. But first you want to separate the 8500 from the speakers, as in (2) and verify the speakers are the author of their own misfortune. When my computer speakers acted up, I ended up running a finger over the solder points inside it, until I found a solder point that "made a difference" and the sound started working properly again. I re-soldered that point (it was a cold solder joint). Trouble is though, some computer speakers are *glued* shut, so this is not as easy as it seems. They can be very hard to open up. I actually used a saw on mine, and sawed a slot where I could get prying tools jammed into the seam and used brute strength to separate the glue. And the speaker still works :-) It no longer looks all that nice though. I won't be selling it on Ebay ("slightly used, some scratches"). Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I don't have headphones, a walkman
or iPod etc. to test and the speakers are brand new Harman Kardon (after the electrician fried all my components) https://www.google.com/search?q=Harm...lboe9gT-etK1M: When I logged on later everything is back to normal. As I say, it's intermittent. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I don't have headphones, a walkman or iPod etc. to test and the speakers are brand new Harman Kardon (after the electrician fried all my components) https://www.google.com/search?q=Harm...lboe9gT-etK1M: When I logged on later everything is back to normal. As I say, it's intermittent. Robert Does the Harmon Kardon have a two or three prong plug ? Computer speakers should have a two prong plug. This prevents ground loops from forming. The 1/8" plug has the only ground between the two units, so there's no ground loop. If the audio equipment has three prongs, it *might* need a hum-breaker, which is a form of transformer coupling between units. These require precisely constructed transformers for best results (some of these have a bandwidth of 10KHz or so, not that impressive). You can also solve hum problems, by using stuff like TOSLink between units (optical interconnect, red LED light flowing over plastic large aperture dental fiber). You would have to look at the input options on the HK speakers, to see if there's another way to get there (a way that avoids this stuff). I've never really owned any "spectacular" audio gear, and 1/8" audio input is about as fancy as anything I've had on my gear here. I didn't even have S'PDIF to play with. ******* I've had your problem, between my Mac G4 and the stereo I used for other sources. And the Mac G4 was the only one with funny radio station noises, hum and other garbage. I never managed to fix that. While it's possible to couple radio station signals into audio cables, and have them rectified by the front end of the speaker or stereo, it's hard to say why this happens. I could use the same cable between two different audio sources, have the problem on one source and not the other. Lots of devices in the room with you, use capacitors on input and output for DC blocking. This is supposed to prevent one device from applying a DC input to a transistor on the input of another device, and driving it into a non-linear area of operation. If you look at the sound chip on the computer motherboard, it uses capacitors on all inputs and outputs for this reason. A defective capacitor might cause a problem, but when it happens identically on both left and right channel, you have to wonder whether it's a design issue. You could also move audio with something like Bluetooth, but the default profile for audio isn't all that good. And that would also add latency, which might upset lip sync while watching movies. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
The Harmon Kardon speakers use a
two prong. Here's the setup connections: https://www.google.com/search?biw=17...u-MK58fLu9ONM: It's odd that it's intermittent, you would think if it were a capacitor it would happen all the time. Well, I guess I'll just live with it and just power off/on when it happens. Thanks, Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
The Harmon Kardon speakers use a two prong. Here's the setup connections: https://www.google.com/search?biw=17...u-MK58fLu9ONM: It's odd that it's intermittent, you would think if it were a capacitor it would happen all the time. Well, I guess I'll just live with it and just power off/on when it happens. Thanks, Robert So that looks to me, like a 2.1 amplified computer speaker, with LineOut for the satellites and CenterSub connector for the larger speaker in the base unit ? Are both audio connectors plugged into the computer ? Do you have a center-sub connector on the 8500 ? I presume so. According to the standard colors table here, black is "Surround" and lime-green is "front left and front right". You would think they'd want an orange connector for a center-sub (so the computer can send a "sub" signal to make the larger speaker in the base unit work). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PC_System_Design_Guide If you leave the second connector "floating", it might pick up hum. Especially as the Sub probably extends to 60Hz for the hum (the Sub would normally be band-limited as to which frequencies it could reproduce). You also want the computer audio settings in the 8500, set to a setting which "matches" the wiring you're using. If your speakers are 2.1, and two plugs are used, you want to select "2.1" in some output selection panel to match. You have a bunch of stuff to check. I thought originally, this was a simple 2-channel setup, with a single green plug to plug in. If you left a plug unplugged, that could well explain the extraneous noises. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Yes, both connectors (green and black) are
plugged into the computer and I followed their diagram to the letter. The plug-in's to the base module are beige and yellow and one plug is square and other a triangle so it's impossible to mess it up. The speakers are actually the ones I picked with the 8200 and when I bought the 8500 I just used them. When the electrician fried everything I wanted the same speakers because I liked them allot and found a new set on eBay still in it's original box. I've never had to set-up any software previously and they work just fine. This what I've found; http://i65.tinypic.com/29qi4h0.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/263k83l.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...s640/audio.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/rwrihv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/4g6t6e.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/2ef8804.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/11t1rhg.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/103x6wx.jpg Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
Yes, both connectors (green and black) are plugged into the computer and I followed their diagram to the letter. The plug-in's to the base module are beige and yellow and one plug is square and other a triangle so it's impossible to mess it up. The speakers are actually the ones I picked with the 8200 and when I bought the 8500 I just used them. When the electrician fried everything I wanted the same speakers because I liked them allot and found a new set on eBay still in it's original box. I've never had to set-up any software previously and they work just fine. This what I've found; http://i65.tinypic.com/29qi4h0.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/263k83l.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...s640/audio.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/rwrihv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/4g6t6e.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/2ef8804.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/11t1rhg.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/103x6wx.jpg Robert So the software seems to know it's driving four speakers. But it doesn't have any common notation for the mode showing, to confirm that. It seems to have figured out the jacks on the back of the machine are in usage, and perhaps it has the proper side contacts for plug presence detect for HDAudio. It's probably in quadraphonic mode right now. (When the number of channels in the content, doesn't match the number of speakers, they can fake it by using various math transforms.) 2.0 Plain stereo 2.1 Left, right, plus a subwoofer 4.0 Quadraphonic (stereo front and stereo back speakers) 5.1 Stereo front, Stereo back, Center, and Subwoofer (three plugs) Might match some common movie setups. 7.1 Four plugs, don't know all the speaker names right off hand, but I could go look them up :-) One question I have about this setup, is what was the intention of the HK design ? Is it advertised as a 2.1 system with a left, right, and a Sub ? It seems a strange choice of packaging, if the thing is actually a quadraphonic system (four speakers, two front and two back). Does the HK speaker have a *model number* on the back, on a plate or similar, that I can go look up ? Not that this has anything to do with "funny noises". I doubt the wire is actually floating and undriven by a signal. The computer audio is bound to have put some signal on there. And if the HK has a two-prong plug, it probably isn't a ground loop. You could try putting the power plug of the HK speakers, on the same power_strip as the computer is using. There's no reason to suspect this will do anything though... It should not make a bit of difference. When a two prong powering is used, the power should "float" with respect to the rest of the room, and the ground on the computer audio plugs should establish ground for everything. Preventing ground loops and humming. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
The Harman Kardon set-up is 2.1 with (2)
stereo speakers and a base(Sub). The model number is HK695-01 The speaker plug is in the same APC surge arrest. http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/produc...r=SEC-756-GOO-[53166061159]-[269259981065]-S-[] As I say, this is an intermittent problem that comes and goes. Most of the time everything is fine. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
The Harman Kardon set-up is 2.1 with (2) stereo speakers and a base(Sub). The model number is HK695-01 The speaker plug is in the same APC surge arrest. http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/produc...r=SEC-756-GOO-[53166061159]-[269259981065]-S-[] As I say, this is an intermittent problem that comes and goes. Most of the time everything is fine. Robert What a weird design :-) I've never seen anything like this before. https://www.top4runners.com/computer...on%20HK695.pdf It accepts what is effectively quadraphonic input (two front, two surround signals) and does a transform of sorts to 2.1 or maybe even a sort of 3.0 . ******* One neat feature, is the interface has a diagnostic output jack, that sweeps low frequencies and gives you a test stimulus for the speakers (PDF page 17). So you don't even need a Sony Walkman or a tape recorder, to inject a test sound to test the speakers. The test tone sweeps from 40Hz to 400Hz. The crossover on the sub is at 180Hz. Frequencies above 180Hz, you would expect those to go to the satellite speakers. This also means, the input signals hardly go directly to the amplifiers inside the unit. The input signals would go to the DSP chip. The DSP chip would process the signals and drive the amplifiers from there. As I don't know of a way to convert 4.0 to 2.1, using only RLC circuits from an Electronics 100 course :-) Google let me down, in terms of theory of operation or any of that sort of stuff. No take-apart pictures to see what is inside. The design is a good deal more complicated than your average computer speaker, at a guess. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I'm sort of a vintage stereo guy,,..
and Harman Kardon is a good name brand. It's a good set-up and I had to pay extra for it at the time. I was thinking,...even though it was new in the box would the years since it was made 'oxidize' circuits etc and that's the cause of the intermittent static? I would be interested, if you wanted to spend the time. Of your opinion of my stereo system. I bought this while in the Navy 1979-1980. Yamaha A-1 Integrated Amp: http://www.classic-audio.com/yamaha-a1-p-405.html http://www.hifi4sale.net/t9572-yamah...amplifier-used Yamaha- T-1 Tuner: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...maha/t-1.shtml Pioneer Pl-L100 Linear Tracking Turntable: https://www.vinylengine.com/library/...pl-l1000.shtml Teac C-3 Tape Deck: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...teac/c-3.shtml Speakers: http://www.thevintageknob.org/pioneer-HPM-150.html http://www.vintage-speaker-review.co...er-review.html Thanks, Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I'm sort of a vintage stereo guy,,.. and Harman Kardon is a good name brand. It's a good set-up and I had to pay extra for it at the time. I was thinking,...even though it was new in the box would the years since it was made 'oxidize' circuits etc and that's the cause of the intermittent static? I would be interested, if you wanted to spend the time. Of your opinion of my stereo system. I bought this while in the Navy 1979-1980. Yamaha A-1 Integrated Amp: http://www.classic-audio.com/yamaha-a1-p-405.html http://www.hifi4sale.net/t9572-yamah...amplifier-used Yamaha- T-1 Tuner: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...maha/t-1.shtml Pioneer Pl-L100 Linear Tracking Turntable: https://www.vinylengine.com/library/...pl-l1000.shtml Teac C-3 Tape Deck: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_li...teac/c-3.shtml Speakers: http://www.thevintageknob.org/pioneer-HPM-150.html http://www.vintage-speaker-review.co...er-review.html Thanks, Robert It is possible for 1/8" connections to act up. In some cases, there isn't sufficient control of dimensions, or sufficient spring force, and it's not making good contact. I did think of a way for the LineOut to have DC on it. HDAudio chips support jack re-tasking. That means an output, can be used as a microphone input, and the mode changes in software. To support electret microphones, they take a voltage source, and maybe a 2Kohm resistor, and bias tip and ring. There's no particular pattern to what they select for a voltage source, and it could vary anywhere from 3.3V to 5V or so. /\ tip ---- 2K ------- 3.3V || ring ---- 2K ------- 3.3V || sleeve ------------- GND The idea is, the electret pulls down the level, when the electret receives some sound pressure. Basically, the computer provides a source of power to make the electret work. On modern enough systems, the microphone is stereo in, and a separate bias is placed on tip and ring (for left and right). The bias source should be switched off by the software, when the jack is in output mode. The next time the speakers do it again, try using the diagnostic output and routing it to the green and black inputs as a test. And see if that signal source behaves differently. What you want, is a way to prove it's the computer that is doing it. If the volume pot on the speakers was a bit dirty, it could function as a noise source. But you'd also notice this, if adjusting the volume control created all sorts of extraneous noise. It doesn't take too many twists of a volume knob to figure out it's a noise source. ******* And I think you've got me beat on stereo equipment :-) Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I'll do the diagnostics next time it happens,..
It says if I hear the test tone in all speakers then everything is working OK, otherwise I'll have to go into detailed troubleshooting techniques. The volume on the satellite speakers are push +/- push buttons and I don't adjust the base. Thanks about the stereo,.. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I went and looked at the diagnostic
troubleshooting and one of the suggestions was to move the speakers away from the monitor as much possible. So I did that; maybe that was the issue? As I said I'll test it if it happens again. Kinda of cool that the speaker has it's own test diagnostics. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
The speaker hum/static sound came back today
and this time I tried the diagnostics. I unplugged the speakers and tried each one in the diagnostics port for low and high frequencies and both played although they sounded the same to me. So according to the test the speakers are working normally. Afterwards the humming stopped. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
On Thu, 9 Aug 2018 07:15:07 -0700 (PDT), Mark Twain
wrote: The speaker hum/static sound came back today and this time I tried the diagnostics. I unplugged the speakers and tried each one in the diagnostics port for low and high frequencies and both played although they sounded the same to me. So according to the test the speakers are working normally. Afterwards the humming stopped. Robert Humming PC speakers are usually caused by a bad connection on the plug. I use corrosion block on them. https://filterace.com/images/Product/large/246.jpg |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
The speaker hum/static sound came back today and this time I tried the diagnostics. I unplugged the speakers and tried each one in the diagnostics port for low and high frequencies and both played although they sounded the same to me. So according to the test the speakers are working normally. Afterwards the humming stopped. Robert http://stuartconnections.com/product...uide/setup.htm You could try just connecting the green connector and leave the black disconnected. Then listen for hum. The multichannel setup likely requires different balancing than the stereo (green plug only) setup. This would be something you'd attempt to adjust from a "full featured" sound control panel on the computer end. You have to adjust the output mode, play some music, and rebalance the bass and treble or adjust the multiband software equalizer. I've had a couple sound cards, where they had absolutely no bass and treble control at all. And then I have two computers now, with the "software multiband equalizer" (sound correction done with DSP software). And I've used that on occasion to correct the really bad amplifier characteristics. You adjust until the sound is natural. I'd suggest trying TOSLink, except neither end has that. (That's optical SPDIF.) TOSLink emits a red LED color from the emitter and uses "dental fiber", a relatively large diameter plastic fiber cable with high loss. The TOSLink emitter costs the manufacturer around $1. A number of motherboards have it. It's the "digital" connector in the manual. Some laptops, the green lineout connector is dual purpose, and if you look into the barrel of the green connector, you'll be greeted by red LED light output. The connector will accept some sort of TOSLink adapter to pick up the light. Another way to break a DC path between components, is with Radio Shack "wireless" extenders. Which is way too expensive to be worth it. Radio Shack also used to sell a "hum breaker", with a carefully balanced transformer inside, and that's for cases where there is a ground loop. Since the HK695 has no Safety Ground, there should not be a ground loop present. The HK695 is isolated and floating with respect to the power source. Only the PC establishes ground potential. A hum breaker should not be needed. Even a good quality hum breaker only has a 10KHz bandwidth, so it's not exactly "high fidelity". But compared to a situation that hums, it's quite acceptable. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
This is a brand new set of speakers not more
than 6 months old. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Thing is it's an intermittent problem..
I'll try working with the green plug... these are new speakers from when all the electronics in my home got fried when the guy wired it for 220 instead of 110, remember? In fact, I'm in the process of getting ductless A/C and I told them the story of the outage and re-wiring so I'm being careful not to let that happen again! Here are my sound controls for the speakers: http://i66.tinypic.com/2pzzfjr.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2w223xg.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ih07qc.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1238wa8.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/jjurf4.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/huoemv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/10seqdy.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/514rk0.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ccmp84.jpg Here's the sound controls for applications: http://i67.tinypic.com/auk0nd.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/30ii7h3.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/4t7kn6.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/120i837.jpg Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
Thing is it's an intermittent problem.. I'll try working with the green plug... these are new speakers from when all the electronics in my home got fried when the guy wired it for 220 instead of 110, remember? In fact, I'm in the process of getting ductless A/C and I told them the story of the outage and re-wiring so I'm being careful not to let that happen again! Here are my sound controls for the speakers: http://i66.tinypic.com/2pzzfjr.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2w223xg.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ih07qc.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1238wa8.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/jjurf4.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/huoemv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/10seqdy.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/514rk0.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ccmp84.jpg Here's the sound controls for applications: http://i67.tinypic.com/auk0nd.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/30ii7h3.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/4t7kn6.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/120i837.jpg Robert Well, reading the manual, the HK695 does two things. 1) 2.0 computer output to 2.1 speaker output 2) 4.0 computer output to 2.1 speaker output When you use both the green and the black connector, the computer should be set to "four channel", perhaps referred to in the disco era as "quadraphonic". The RealTek sound hardware, currently driven by the Microsoft driver, I don't see a reference to output mode. Whether it's 2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 isn't clear. The panel shows you have four jacks for a total of eight channels (7.1). The thing is, the "multimedia content" on your computer, starts with an initial set of channels. If you download a typical consumer tune, it might be stereo. If you had WinAmp running, that would be 2.0 stereo source. Some sound chips have software, to "transform" the sound field of the source content (2.0 MP3, 5.1 Movie Soundtrack) to the number of channels the user selected (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1). This might be referred to as HRTF (Head Related Transfer Function). So if you were listening to a movie which only had a stereo sound track, yet you had the sound card set to 5.1, the software would "synthesize" the missing channels. It doesn't sound as good as real 5.1, but you get a slight bit more depth of field from the transformation. However, your *speakers* have their own HRTF. And your speakers only have two input modes. 2.0 and 4.0. And another factor here, is the original owner of the patent for at least one of the transfer functions, sold the patent to Creative. Creative "yanked" the licensing from it's competitors. This meant that CMedia had to pull its drivers from the website for an entire year, while they re-wrote their driver and removed the transformation matrix stuff. Source Realtek HK695 (at a guess) (not verified) 2.0 2.0 2.0 __\ 2.1 out 5.1 2.1 4.0 / 5.1 7.1 One issue, is back when sound cards were PCI, those products still had a software support for 4.0 (green jack and black jack). AFAIK, the RealTek of today, is likely missing 4.0 output. If you set the RealTek to 5.1, then the "Center/Sub" receive a signal, which in effect "subtracts some energy from front stereo and back stereo channels". So selecting 5.1 on the RealTek level, isn't "exactly right" either. In summary, you probably want to play any source you want on the left. Don't worry about that. The media player is likely to see the Realtek column is 2.0 and the source will do the right thing. The RealTek should be set to Stereo. I didn't see a setting in the Microsoft GUI admitting only the green jack has a signal on it. Once the RealTek is stereo, plug the green plug of the HK695 in. The 2.0 signal in, will have a low pass filter applied to Left and Right, and the LPFs will be mixed together. This drives the Sub unit of your speakers. Maybe the sub will be given a signal from 60Hz to around 200Hz. And the rest of the energy will come from the wine-glass side speakers. One thing I'm worried about here, is whether the hum might be coming from the HK695 HRTF digital processing or something. If the RealTek isn't driving a signal on the black plug, maybe while the plug is "floating", the HRTF inside the HK695 is doing a transform on it, and redirecting "energy" below 200Hz to the sub unit. By disconnecting the Black cable from the HK695, then in theory it should stop trying to mix in the signal from the Black pair of channels. If you had an older sound card, a PCI one, it might have the old Quadraphonic setting and with that in place, you could try the HK695 doing the 4.0 to 2.1 transformation. The front and rear speakers would be mixed to make a stereo signal. All four channels would be LPF and mixed together, to drive the sub. That's roughly how you might turn 4.0 to 2.1. ******* If you get the actual RealTek driver, the panel can look like this. https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/a...re1-png.52998/ You can look to see if it has a Quadraphonic setting and supports 4.0 or not. By clicking the orange tick boxes, you can change the output mode of the RealTek. The "dismiss" in that panel, is on the upper right. Somebody "on drugs" did the GUI design :-) It always annoys me when I see it. But I have installed that here. If you hold your mouse over the "plugs" near the top of the panel, you'll be in for a surprise (over the top visual effect). This is a Realtek driver page. Tick the "I accept". This "I accept" nonsense, prevents me from giving the direct links I'd like to use. http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...Audio%20Codecs If you're using the 64-bit OS, then *64bits* Vista, Windows7, Windows8, Windows8.1, R2.82 2017/7/26 264424k Global Windows10 Driver only (Executable file) Click the Global button and the download will begin. It'll take a while. That driver will give that goofy control panel, and the branding will be RealTek. If you don't like it, you can go to Programs and Features and remove it. The Dell "auto-updater" might try to destroy the RealTek driver install, and I don't know what the Dell stuff does when a "foreign" driver is present. If you got the driver from Dell, Dell might sneak their logo into the panel. In any case, you have options other than to use the rather boring Microsoft generic panels. In your search for the right setting for the number of plugs you're using. 2.0 green plug only 4.0 green and black plugs both used I hope the above isn't too much to digest. The sound software has really gotten out of hand. HTH, Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
In message , Paul
writes: [] I hope the above isn't too much to digest. The Saved for future reference though (-: sound software has really gotten out of hand. [] A lot because they _tried_ to make things easier by implementing autosense, so the drivers and hardware between them automatically detected what you plugged in, including especially whether that was an input or an output. (Cynics could also say that that was done to reduce the number of sockets.) Last time (not recently) I played with sound setup software (I agree, done by someone on something - particularly irritating to me as part of what I do is set it up for my blind friends; too much of it is graphic only, so I have to do it for them), I _think_ it was possible to override the autosense and _tell_ it what you had connected to each socket, but I have the feeling that it creeps back, especially with "up"grades (including the ordinary Windows ones - though I've just noticed this is in the XP 'group only). -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Grief generates a huge energy in you and it's better for everybody if you harness it to do something. - Judi Dench, RT 2015/2/28-3/6 |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
It was allot to digest *L*
I disconnected the black plug and no difference, then disconnected the green plug and it lost sound. I had Realtek driver installed in programs: http://i67.tinypic.com/2rh9z5c.jpg I tried to reinstall it but it failed. I tried your link to install it but it kept giving me the 'I accept' nonsense. I tried over 10 times. How many does it take before it activates? Thanks, Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
It was allot to digest *L* I disconnected the black plug and no difference, then disconnected the green plug and it lost sound. I had Realtek driver installed in programs: http://i67.tinypic.com/2rh9z5c.jpg I tried to reinstall it but it failed. I tried your link to install it but it kept giving me the 'I accept' nonsense. I tried over 10 times. How many does it take before it activates? Thanks, Robert It's in a redirect loop. Try again tomorrow. Maybe hackers broke in, and they have to restore from backup. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I tried it again and it's still
in a re-direct loop. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I tried it again and it's still in a re-direct loop. Robert It still isn't behaving quite right. What should happen, is this URL should take you back to the "I accept" page. It's a direct link, but they won't allow me to direct link, without that stupid "I accept" page showing up instead. I was able to get here with SRWare Iron. http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I was finally able to download:
http://i64.tinypic.com/2qsusuo.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/k2lpom.jpg Is this just an update because I don't see any changes. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I was finally able to download: http://i64.tinypic.com/2qsusuo.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/k2lpom.jpg Is this just an update because I don't see any changes. Robert It would be an update. In Control Panels, you should have a RealTek. You should be able to set it to Quadraphonic. That would give 4.0 for the two plugs on the HK speakers, and the HK will transform the 4.0 to 2.1 for the sub and two satellite speakers. https://s15.postimg.cc/g5d8hudgr/quadraphonic.gif Or, you can set it to stereo and use just the green plug. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I don't seem to be able to locate the
Realtek HD Audio Manager? My setup still looks the same. http://i67.tinypic.com/bbh46.jpg Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I don't seem to be able to locate the Realtek HD Audio Manager? My setup still looks the same. http://i67.tinypic.com/bbh46.jpg Robert A Google search offers this suggestion. The executable mentioned here would be on a 64-bit OS. "How do I get to Realtek HD Audio Manager? You can go to Control Panel and view items by "Large icons". Realtek HD Audio Manager can be found there. If you cannot find Realktek HD audio manager in Control Panel, browse to here C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RtkNGUI64.exe. Double-click on the file to open Realtek HD audio manager. " You can see the RtkNGUI64.exe in the picture here. https://i.imgur.com/JoeZ3ux.png Another thread mentions "In Task Manager the RAVBg64.EXE (HD Audio background process) and RAVCp64.EXE (Realtek HD Audio Manager) are present in the process list." If I use sysinternals.com "Autoruns64" program, the top two entries are the RealTek ones. Example here. The entries are apparently in the registry. https://s15.postimg.cc/fnn4zh4ln/how...ts_started.gif I tried using Task Scheduler but there was nothing RealTek in there. Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
I tried it several times but it doesn't do
anything when I double click it, or right click to open it or run as administrator. http://i63.tinypic.com/atu1ac.jpg So what am I doing wrong? Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I tried it several times but it doesn't do anything when I double click it, or right click to open it or run as administrator. http://i63.tinypic.com/atu1ac.jpg So what am I doing wrong? Robert Probably not doing anything wrong. I tried running Process Monitor, to see if I could spot NGUI doing anything strange, and nothing stands out. It accesses registry settings like any other piece of software would. If could be, that it checks whether the background processes are running, but that's the only thing that comes to mind. That might not show up in Process Monitor. Sometimes third party applications conflict with that driver, but again, I don't know how you figure that out either (which one is doing it, and how the third-party software is doing it). Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Well it was worth a try,....
At any rate the humming hasn't returned. Thanks, Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
The humming cam back again and then
turned itself off/on and just did it again. I tried turning the humming off using the keyboard speaker function and I could still hear the humming when I shouldn't of been able to. Thoughts, Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Today the humming is gone,..
very strange intermittent problem, because it shouldn't be happening at all. Robert |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
Today the humming is gone,.. very strange intermittent problem, because it shouldn't be happening at all. Robert Some problems with computers here, it's taken me a whole year to figure out what's going on. Keep your eyes peeled, for a "pattern". Paul |
O.T. Speakers static/humming
OK,..
Thanks, Robert |
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