Thread: Mouse Refurbish
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Old October 13th 19, 02:19 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general,alt.windows7.general,sci.electronics.repair
J. P. Gilliver (John)[_7_]
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Posts: 603
Default Mouse Refurbish

In message , MouseUser
writes:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a
reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !

[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely they've
both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail (or become
unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it might not be the
switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is probably
unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be worth
looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to get
at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those, you
should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most of the
electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS Components,
Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be still in
business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of years) - once
you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure). The better
distributors will have mechanical drawings near their listings; if not,
they should at least tell you the manufacturer's name and part number of
the ones they sell, and you should find such drawings at the
manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if they're
press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but check with a
continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can make out the
part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

"Bother," said the Borg, "we assimilated a Pooh."
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