On 2019-10-12 8:48 p.m., Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-10-12 8:19 p.m., J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message , MouseUser
writes:
My favorite mouse is acting up.
Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at
all.

I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.

Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at
a reasonable price).

Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).

Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ?
Suggestions ?
Links please !
[]
My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely
they've both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail
(or become unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it
might not be the switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is
probably unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be
worth looking for broken tracks on the PCB.

Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?

Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone
capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is
likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to
get at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.

If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not
mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be
used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those,
you should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most
of the electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS
Components, Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be
still in business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of
years) - once you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure).
The better distributors will have mechanical drawings near their
listings; if not, they should at least tell you the manufacturer's
name and part number of the ones they sell, and you should find such
drawings at the manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if
they're press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but
check with a continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can
make out the part number on them.)

It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves,
but I'd not like to try.

Not sure where you live, but I find it on Amazon.com for about $11.00.
Much easier then trying to repair one. Also there are literally hundreds
of different ones to choose from, Surely you can find a suitable
lookalike replacement.

Rene


Rene



I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore,
I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech
M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.

Rene