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Old July 19th 12, 03:48 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.hardware
madmax
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Default USB to PS2 converter

On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 21:42:00 -0500, VanguardLH wrote:

"Good Guy" wrote:

Jo-Anne wrote:

I recently posted about my dead Contour optical mouse, whose cable had a
broken wire--one of five. Given the way the five wires were crimped into a
piece of plastic, it looked like it would be impossible to fix.

I also, however, have several old PS2 Contour mice whose rollers had gotten
clogged with cat fur. It turns out that some of the cables have the same
five-wire configuration.

I'd like to try connecting the unbroken PS2 cable to the optical mouse. What
sort of USB to PS2 connector will make Windows XP recognize the mouse as
Plug-and-Play? Or is that even possible?


Personally, why do you want to waste your time in such things. Go and
get a new mouse costing $3.99 and your problem is solved for the next
few years.


It's not a question of money (since obviously the OP is willing to pay
over a hundred dollars on just one mouse). It's about what the OP likes
for shape and features of the mouse. What $4 mouse do you know of that
has the same shape as the one the OP described? As mice go, this is an
oddball shape, especially by elevating the wrist at the backside of the
mouse shell. Then show us what $4 mouse is going to have all the extra
buttons of the OP's old broken mouse?

The OP never bothered to clearly identify *which* mouse she is (was)
using. "Contour" applies to many mice since is is an extremely common
term to describe the shape of the mouse.

What if it was this oddjob?
http://ergo.contour-design.com/
You know a $4 mouse that is equivalent?

What if the OP was using this oddjob?
http://www.ergonomicsmadeeasy.com/st...contour-mouse/
This one contravenes most mouse designs. Instead of letting the fingers
curve naturally over and down the mouse, it keeps the fingers raised
horizontally which would force the wrist to angle up. You couldn't use
a mousepad with a wrist pad with this mouse because the wrist pad would
elevate your palm above the mouse shell. Also, it doesn't use a combo
scrollwheel/button; that is, the scrollwheel isn't used as the 3rd mouse
button. On this one, the middle button is really a button and the
scrollwheel is off on the side of the mouse shell. Just where do you
find a $4 mouse just like this one?

"Penny-wise, pound-foolish" simply doesn't make sense when getting a
proper hardware to do the job it is intended for. You want maximum
productivity from your effort but re[pairing a mouse doesn't make sense
in this respect. It is a false economy in my budget.


Foolish advice given that you haven't bothered to research what mouse
the OP might be discussing. You think everyone is using some super
cheapy mouse like you. At one time, I used the Kensington trackball.
This was when it had steel roller with ball bearings and not the cheaper
hardware they went to later. It was a tough device; however, whacking
the ball could get it scored and invariably when trying to make minute
mouse movement you'd hit the scratch. Did I have to buy a whole new
trackball? Nah, and despite your slipshod advice, I'd just go to a look
pool table store and buy a snooker ball (much cheaper than buying
replacement balls from Kensington). I've had mice whose buttons didn't
work well after some abuse. If the plastic shell for the mouse was
damaged (because the flex in the button portion of the shell is what
provides the spring to bring it off the PCB switch) then bending it back
up usually didn't work. If, however, the problem was with the PCB
micro-switch then I'd desolder it and solder in a new one. I'd just
head to the local electronics junk shop (carried tons of discarded or
old hardware) and grab a mouse for a dollar or two that had the switch
that I needed. Much cheaper than buying a new $30 mouse. Sorry, I
wouldn't touch those $4 cheapies you use.

What boob would replace a $110 mouse with a $4 cheapie?



If a boob is willing to pay $110 for a mouse, all bets are off.




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