Thread: Win7 support:
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Old July 15th 19, 07:56 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
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Default Win7 support:

On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul



Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert


The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul


Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert
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