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Need to find drive with bad block



 
 
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  #16  
Old December 6th 18, 01:47 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
M.L.[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 105
Default Need to find drive with bad block



Event Viewer: "The device, \Device\Harddisk0\DR0, has a bad block."

Got a Windows 10 BSOD, possibly from writing to a bad block.


It should not happen on a write, but on a read.

The disk firmware, when asked to write on a bad sector, writes instead
on a reserved spare sector and maps it, so that the computer never sees
that bad sector again (assuming the spare area is not spent).

On the other hand, a read would fail.


Thanks for the info Carlos E.R. My disk passes all tests now after
using Seagate SeaTools Bootable USB.
Ads
  #17  
Old December 6th 18, 01:52 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
M.L.[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 105
Default Need to find drive with bad block



I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows
tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the
fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk
which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the
bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to
thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice.


No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?


I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.
  #18  
Old December 6th 18, 03:52 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
SilverSlimer[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 120
Default Need to find drive with bad block

On 2018-12-05 8:37 p.m., Wolf K wrote:
On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote:


I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable.Â* The Windows
tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the
fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk
which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the
bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to
thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice.

No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer.Â* Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?


I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.


Replace that HDD ASAP.

Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good
guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and
Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences.
In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same
models may well be different internally.

In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately,
and backup all your data to it immediately.


In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the
absolute worst in hard disk reliability. That said, I had a WD Blue
drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing
as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD
regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower.

That said, avoid ADATA at all costs. What junk.


--
SilverSlimer
Minds: @silverslimer
  #19  
Old December 6th 18, 04:12 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
VanguardLH[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,881
Default Need to find drive with bad block

Wolf K wrote:

On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote:

I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows
tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the
fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk
which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the
bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to
thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice.

No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?


I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.


Replace that HDD ASAP.

Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good
guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and
Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences.
In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same
models may well be different internally.

In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately,
and backup all your data to it immediately.


In the comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware-storage.newsgroup, Linda McGuire posts
results from Backblaze, a large data storage provider, regarding their
reliability of thousands of HDDs. For example:

https://www.backblaze.com/blog/2018-...failure-rates/

Their charts don't list every model they've used. Yep, some Seagate
models have lower reliability than others but even a WDC model was even
worse. Some models of some brands are made at the same plant; i.e., to
provide disaster recovery (earthquakes, floods, tsunamis, etc), they
co-locate some production with other brands (i.e., shared plants that
produce more than one brand). The HGST brand usually gets high
reliability ratings than WDC-branded drives but HGST is a division of
WDC (a merger of IBM and Hitachi and later the storage division acquired
by WDC). WDC also acquired SanDisk. Seagate's Lacie division sells
better performing units (better and more rigidly tested) at a price
premium.

Google also employ thousands of HDD in their services but I've not seen
them publish their failure statistics. With consolidation of
manufacture, it can be tough to know just who made what.
  #20  
Old December 6th 18, 04:46 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
nospam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,718
Default Need to find drive with bad block

In article , SilverSlimer
wrote:

In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the
absolute worst in hard disk reliability.


except the ones where it isn't.

seagate did have some issues, especially with the 1.5 & 3 tb drives,
but so has every other drive maker at one time or another.

all hard drives fail. the question is when, not if.

That said, I had a WD Blue
drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing
as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD
regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower.


although ssds are more reliable than mechanical hard drives, they too
are not perfect and can fail without warning.

back up everything at least once, ideally multiple times (and test each
one), so when a drive fails, it's an easy replace and restore.
  #21  
Old December 6th 18, 06:09 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Need to find drive with bad block

SilverSlimer wrote:
On 2018-12-05 8:37 p.m., Wolf K wrote:
On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote:


I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows
tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the
fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk
which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the
bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to
thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice.

No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?

I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.


Replace that HDD ASAP.

Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good
guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate
and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different
preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs
of the same models may well be different internally.

In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately,
and backup all your data to it immediately.


In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the
absolute worst in hard disk reliability. That said, I had a WD Blue
drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing
as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD
regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower.

That said, avoid ADATA at all costs. What junk.


Seagate varies from model to model, and generation to
generation. I have good Seagate drives here, and
"definite mistake" drives.

The solution is simple. Read the customer reviews
and see what they say. While the noise level in the
reviews can be high, you can receive some good intelligence
from them.

Paul
  #22  
Old December 6th 18, 08:35 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
M.L.[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 105
Default Need to find drive with bad block



No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?


I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.


Replace that HDD ASAP.


Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that.

How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my
original Win 8.1 product key.

I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium
snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the
same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home?

Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good
guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and
Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences.
In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same
models may well be different internally.

In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately,
and backup all your data to it immediately.

Good luck,

  #23  
Old December 6th 18, 02:13 PM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Carlos E.R.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,356
Default Need to find drive with bad block

On 06/12/2018 08.35, M.L. wrote:


No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?

I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.


Replace that HDD ASAP.


Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that.

How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my
original Win 8.1 product key.


Clone the disk with imaging software. I will not say which to use
because I do that with Linux dd, or with the clonezilla disk.

Windows uses a "Disk identifier" parameter which can also be cloned and
keeps Windows happy (or directly edited). Of course, if the new disk is
larger then you have to expand the partitions after the clone. I did
that recently, replacing a 500 GB rotating rust with 1000 GB SSD (to add
dual boot) and Windows 10 did not complain.

--
Cheers, Carlos.
  #24  
Old December 6th 18, 02:22 PM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Need to find drive with bad block

M.L. wrote:

No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad
block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after
using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away?
I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run
chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll
replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at
Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original
Windows 8.0 key might be difficult.

Replace that HDD ASAP.


Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that.

How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my
original Win 8.1 product key.

I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium
snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the
same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home?

Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good
guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and
Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences.
In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same
models may well be different internally.

In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately,
and backup all your data to it immediately.

Good luck,


The computer that previously had Windows 10 Home on it,
will *automatically* re-activate if you choose to clean
install the OS and nuke any previous content.

When the Win10 install runs, it gathers up the serial
number of the machine and sends it to the server.
The server says "yes, I've seen this machine before,
here is your license". The server keeps a record of
your existence.

Where problems might arise would be:

1) The machine has seen several Win10 licenses.
You might need to enter a key to "convince" the
machine, which license you really want activated.

2) On a desktop, you change so much hardware, the
"serial number method" no longer works properly.
The NIC on a motherboard, is a key component
of the serial number method, and changing the
motherboard out and replacing it with something
else, might require communications with Microsoft
support.

If you're doing the simplest thing in the world, which
is inserting your verified-good-burn of Windows 10 DVD
into the laptop drive, and installing on a new hard
drive you just installed, it's going to go easy as pie :-)
I won't even need to write a procedure for you :-)

You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft
server already knows who you are, and what license key
it is. By generating the key during your previous
Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your
previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this
install to be "easy as pie".

*******

If you "clone" the old hard drive to the new hard
drive, that could work too. If you get the new hard
drive to boot, you can do a Repair install, keeping
user data and installed programs. For example, if
you download a 17763 DVD today (1809), you mount
the ISO using the right-click mount option of
the ISO file, then run Setup.exe off the virtual CD
drive letter that pops up. And that kicks off the
Repair install.

For a person who owns only a single laptop, when it
comes time to "clone" to a new hard drive, it helps
to have either a USB enclosure for the new hard drive,
or have a USB thumb drive big enough to hold a backup
of the internal disk image, for restore to the new hard
drive when it's installed in the laptop drive bay.
Based on your attempts to get a good deal on a drive,
I don't know if you'll be wanting to fork out more
money for enough kit to clone over the old image.

USB thumb drives come in convenient sizes up to 128GB.
That might not be big enough to hold all the files off
your old 500GB rotating drive. You need to do "Properties"
on the partition, look at the pie chart, and see how
much of the partition is used.

$20, but will be slow (Cruzer is the slowest they make)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820173057

128GB USB thumb drive

Cruzer - agonizingly slow
Ultra - slow
Extreme - good

$200 for a 512GB thumb drive (it's really an SSD inside)
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820236343

512GB USB thumb drive

Anything that size, it becomes cheaper to buy
a USB to SATA cable and a cheap SSD drive to use as
a replacement for a USB key, as USB thumb drives
above 128GB are likely to be pricey. You pay a
premium for packaging at that point, as a USB key
needs to stay skinny, while an SSD drive, the
PCB inside hardly fills the metal shell. To fill
the PCB, you'd need an SSD with 16 chips on it,
8 chips per side. A lot of cheap SSDs today, only
have 1,2,4 chips inside.

For example, I use one of these with my SSD. I can
make a 512GB USB stick this way.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16812400542

This is the current scratch drive I bought to go with it.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820167429

This one would be a better choice, as the listed power
is below 2.5W and so the USB3 cable could be powered
from a USB2 laptop port. USB2 ports provide up to
5V @ 500mA, which runs some SSDs, but you could have
trouble spinning up some brands of 5V @ 1A 2.5"
rotating hard drives. Instead of paying $200 for the
Corsair product (nice as it is), I can duplicate it
with a $70 SSD and a $30 or less cable.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820242401

As long as you can figure out how to make a storage
device or adapter to move the data, you can do
stuff like this.

1) Clone with Macrium Reflectfree

laptop with
old HDD Inside ---------- USB cable -------- powered enclosure
with new rotating HDD

2) Backup with Macrium Reflectfree
Assumes large enough external storage is available.

laptop with
old HDD Inside ---------- USB cable ------- USB thumbdrive or SSD
on a USB cable or other
external storage

After installing the new HDD inside the laptop, do a restore
with Macrium ReflectFree.

laptop with
new HDD Inside --------- USB cable -------- USB thumbdrive or SSD
on a USB cable or other
external storage

After you've done (1) or (2), you can do a Repair install
if you want, with the new hard drive sitting in the
laptop drive bay. The purpose of the Repair install,
would only be if you thought some system files
had been damaged by the bad block problem. If the
bad blocks only ruined data files, a Repair install
wouldn't be necessary.

It depends on how much "junk" you currently own,
as to what you can do, or how easy it will be to
do. I don't have any idea as to what you've got - even
a second computer and some "file sharing" on that
second computer, might be enough to transfer over
the info, with nothing more than a LAN cable
you already own and are using right now.

https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree # free for home users

HTH,
Paul
  #25  
Old December 7th 18, 01:22 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
M.L.[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 105
Default Need to find drive with bad block



How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my
original Win 8.1 product key.

I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium
snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the
same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home?


The computer that previously had Windows 10 Home on it,
will *automatically* re-activate if you choose to clean
install the OS and nuke any previous content.


Good to know. Thanks for your detailed response.

When the Win10 install runs, it gathers up the serial
number of the machine and sends it to the server.
The server says "yes, I've seen this machine before,
here is your license". The server keeps a record of
your existence.


If you're doing the simplest thing in the world, which
is inserting your verified-good-burn of Windows 10 DVD
into the laptop drive...


My only choices are a recent Macrium Reflect image stored
on my external USB HD, or to download the current
Windows 10 Home ISO for a bootable USB Repair install.

You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft
server already knows who you are, and what license key
it is. By generating the key during your previous
Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your
previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this
install to be "easy as pie".


How will Microsoft know who I am? Will I need to enter my Microsoft
username and password first?

If you "clone" the old hard drive to the new hard
drive, that could work too. If you get the new hard
drive to boot, you can do a Repair install, keeping
user data and installed programs. For example, if
you download a 17763 DVD today (1809), you mount
the ISO using the right-click mount option of
the ISO file, then run Setup.exe off the virtual CD
drive letter that pops up. And that kicks off the
Repair install.

For a person who owns only a single laptop, when it
comes time to "clone" to a new hard drive, it helps
to have either a USB enclosure for the new hard drive,
or have a USB thumb drive big enough to hold a backup
of the internal disk image, for restore to the new hard
drive when it's installed in the laptop drive bay.


Yes, I have an external USB HD for storing the latest Macrium Reflect
C: drive images. I'm going to take another image snapshot tonight. I
plan on buying a HD of the same size and will image the entire HD with
all partitions intact.
  #26  
Old December 7th 18, 01:25 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
nospam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,718
Default Need to find drive with bad block

In article , M.L.
wrote:

You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft
server already knows who you are, and what license key
it is. By generating the key during your previous
Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your
previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this
install to be "easy as pie".


How will Microsoft know who I am? Will I need to enter my Microsoft
username and password first?


entitlements, and no. swap the drive and don't worry about it.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12440/windows-10-activation
  #27  
Old December 7th 18, 01:48 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
M.L.[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 105
Default Need to find drive with bad block



How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my
original Win 8.1 product key.


Clone the disk with imaging software...

Windows uses a "Disk identifier" parameter which can also be cloned and
keeps Windows happy (or directly edited). Of course, if the new disk is
larger then you have to expand the partitions after the clone. I did
that recently, replacing a 500 GB rotating rust with 1000 GB SSD (to add
dual boot) and Windows 10 did not complain.


I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm
going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of
the entire HD
  #28  
Old December 7th 18, 02:07 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
nospam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,718
Default Need to find drive with bad block

In article , M.L.
wrote:

I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm
going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of
the entire HD


replace it with an ssd. the speed improvement will be dramatic.
  #29  
Old December 7th 18, 02:23 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Need to find drive with bad block

nospam wrote:
In article , M.L.
wrote:

You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft
server already knows who you are, and what license key
it is. By generating the key during your previous
Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your
previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this
install to be "easy as pie".

How will Microsoft know who I am? Will I need to enter my Microsoft
username and password first?


entitlements, and no. swap the drive and don't worry about it.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12440/windows-10-activation


On a fresh install, you answer the same questions you always do.

1) "Want to use an MSA ?"

The rails are greased to encourage entering an MSA
right away.

If my MSA is
then my home directory will be C:\users\georg

2) If you decline to enter an MSA, you can
define a local account. A second window will do
one of those "are you sure" things we all hate.
Then enter your name so it matches for the
purposes of easy file sharing perhaps.
John Smith for a user name becomes
C:\users\John Smith

If you were a Linux user, you might set your name
to just John, so that Linux file sharing and Windows
both used "John". But of course, in Windows registration
dialogs, now it'll say "John" instead of "John Smith",
which hardly matters.

After the OS is running, if you casually made a reference
to your MSA, the account might get messed about and
present an MSA login on the lock screen. But, at least,
your home directory would have C:\users\John Smith .

I can't honestly say I have a "best practices" good
solution for this. Having an MSA is generally a PITA,
sooner or later.

One thing you have to watch, is typing in the wrong
password to the MSA.

username:

password (gmail): 12345678
password (Microsoft MSA) MyCRazy111Password!!!

If you've gone to all that trouble, it would be
a bit annoying to type the "12345678" one and alert
some Microsoft employee about how to access your Gmail :-/
These are the perils of one identity string, being
shared for two purposes. You could make the passwords
the same of course, but is that a good thing ?

Paul
  #30  
Old December 7th 18, 07:15 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
rp[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default Need to find drive with bad block

On Thu, 06 Dec 2018 18:48:12 -0600, M.L. wrote:

I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm
going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of
the entire HD


I'd replace the drive with an SSD and then use Macrium Reflect to clone
the old drive to the new one. Then shut down and immediately remove the
old drive and allow it to boot from the new one and you should be good
to go.

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com


 




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