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#61
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
This is way over my head,.. I wouldn't know what to buy even if I figured out the wires/connectors. That's why I was hoping you could just point me to something. I didn't realize it was so involved. However, you said not to worry about power supplies, correct? Robert If the power supplies in your two machines are standard ones, you should be able to pick one up when you need it. With two computers, one of your computers could die, but you'd have the second to use while a replacement power supply was delivered. Keeping a spare on site, is handy if you like to "debug" computer failures. For example, I used my spare to try to figure out why my once-reliable P4 system was acting up the last time I plugged it in. Here, I have the advantage that I can drive into town (20 minutes with slowest means of transport) and pick one up off the shelf. Another reason to buy them, is "sales". When one power supply company decided to stop doing business in our country, their PSUs went on sale at the computer store. And I picked up a couple. For some brands, I wouldn't be able to afford a good one, unless they dropped the price to try to get rid of it. There are some power supplies which are $500 each (and no, those aren't the ones that go on sale either). Paul |
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#62
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Well, the only reason I'm thinking
of buying them at all is the same reason for the HD's, availability and to keep my 8500 and 780 running on Win7 Pro. Unless you think there's no problem in finding them later on. What about this? https://www.google.com/search?q=powe...04246680334346 https://www.google.com/search?q=powe...38978400392253 Robert |
#63
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
Well, the only reason I'm thinking of buying them at all is the same reason for the HD's, availability and to keep my 8500 and 780 running on Win7 Pro. Unless you think there's no problem in finding them later on. What about this? https://www.google.com/search?q=powe...04246680334346 https://www.google.com/search?q=powe...38978400392253 Robert The rear of the XPS8500 shows more or less standard screw placement. The unit doesn't have an on-off switch. It looks like there would be room for a switch if the replacement had an on-off switch. There's no slide switch for input voltage, to it's an auto-switching model. The supply is 460W and I'm looking for a nameplate view. https://images.pcworld.com/images/ar...6-11378070.jpg This picture isn't the best, but it might have the specs for the 460W Dell. https://microdream.co.uk/media/catal...img_9159_6.jpg 3.3V @ 17A \___ Combined load, no more than 142W 5.0V @ 25A / 12VA @ 18A \ 12VB @ 16A \___ Total 365W (hard to make out the number) 12VC @ 8A / -12V @ 0.3A +5VSB @ 3.0A Overall power - no more than 460W And I doubt I'm going to see a cable harness manifest, with how many Molex chains there are and the like. It probably has at least a 2x3 PCI Express for video cards (and as your video card isn't a "monster", your card probably draws its power from the slot). You have to make sure the cabling on the new supply, is long enough, and has enough cables. Seasonic 550W modular 80+ Gold $80 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817151189 +3.3V @ 20A, +5V @ 20A, +12V @ 45A, -12V @ 0.3A, +5Vsb @ 3A \____ 100W max ____/ 540W 3.6W 15W Overall supply power no more than 550W combined Because the supplies now use "double-forward conversion", the supply is separated into two parts. The +12V is the first stage. The +12V output is converted into 3.3V and 5V by a converter board. The concept for efficient (80+) systems is that the low-voltage rails "aren't used very much" and as a consequence, the current rating of the low voltage is limited in max capacity. And on that particular product line, as you select higher and higher power supplies, they don't beef up the converter card for the low voltage rails. CORSAIR TX550M (CP-9020133-NA) 550W ATX12V v2.4/EPS2.92 80+ GOLD Semi-Modular $65 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817139210 +3.3V @ 25A, +5V @ 20A, +12V @ 43A, -12V @ 0.8A, +5Vsb @ 3A \____ 120W max ____/ 516W 9.6W 15W Overall supply power no more than 550W combined And so far, they all have black cabling. This one is similar to the first, but $100. And it looks like it has two SATA cable runs and one Molex cable run. Seasonic PRIME Ultra 550W 80+ Gold Power Supply, Full Modular, 135mm FDB Fan ATX12V/EPS12V, Compact 140 mm Size, Power On Self Tester, SSR-550GD2 $100 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817151207 +3.3V @ 20A, +5V @ 20A, +12V @ 45A, -12V @ 0.3A, +5Vsb @ 3A \____ 100W max ____/ 540W 3.6W 15W Overall supply power no more than 550W combined 5.91" x 5.51" x 3.39" STD 140mm STD Now, this one uses black wire, but the wires are separate, so they're not using those ribbon-like cables. This one is 6.5" long versus the 5.5" long previous supply. That dimension should be measured from the back of the computer, towards the modular cable panel inside the PC. This seems to be pretty generous on cable interfaces, even including the floppy cable that might be used (to power something other than a floppy). EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2 220-G2-0550-Y1 80+ GOLD 550W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode Includes FREE Power On Self Tester $70 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817438053 +3.3V @ 22A, +5V @ 22A, +12V @ 46A, -12V @ 0.5A, +5Vsb @ 3A \____ 110W max ____/ 550W 6W 15W Overall supply power no more than 550W combined 1 x 24-Pin ATX 1 x 8-Pin (4+4) EPS (CPU) 2 x 8-Pin (6+2), 1 x 6-Pin PCIE 9 x SATA === 3 "chains" 3 x FourPin Peripheral === 1 "chain" 1 x Floppy The review for that one, the pictures aren't working, and maybe you have to be a member to get the pictures to render ? In any case, it got a good rating electrically. https://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.ph...print&reid=440 I wouldn't say paying for "compact" is all that impressive, as both of my non-modular supplies here that are currently running, are 5.5" long. And the modular I just put in the old P4 PC, is 6.5" long. You'd want to check to see if there is room for a 6.5" PSU in your tower or not. The extra length could be caused by the depth of the modular interface panel in the back of the supply. Anyway, there are hundreds of supplies to choose from. And in 2018, probably very few with colored wires. Just for a joke, I selected one of the more "traditionalist" manufacturers. FSP. Fortron/Sparkle. They're known for precisely cutting material cost to just hit spec (like the cross-load runs all the way out to the allowed 5%, that sort of thing). They're also notorious for using short cables. If your machine is compact, and none of the wires are "long runs", you probably don't have anything to worry about. If you had a computer case with PSU in the bottom of the case, and needed to reach an optical drive on the top front of the case, the cables won't be long enough. That's part of their tradition. FSP Group 550W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Active PFC HGX550 (looks non-modular, ) $64 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIABP94H47035 +3.3V @ 20A, +5V @ 20A, +12V @ 46A, -12V @ 0.3A, +5Vsb @ 2.5A \____ 120W max ____/ 550W 3.6W 12.5W Overall supply power no more than 550W combined So on that one, the main cable has colored wires :-) And the other wires are black. To their credit, the web advert has cable lengths listed in the spec section. The web advert also shows how their efficiency "hugs" the 80% line. Selecting these is a lot of work, not from an excess of technical input, but just trying to figure out why one is $30 more than another. And, whether that money went into "name" or "actual quality". So out of the four, the EVGA looks pretty good (Paul likes cables, even if they're ugly...). But by all means, keep shopping. There isn't a lot of difference between these, at least, if you use the provided pictures. It's pretty hard to tell how miserable the wire looms are, until you get one home to play with it. I don't find all this "modular" and "ribbon" cabling to be all that wonderful. It didn't solve any problems for me and it was just as much of a pain in the ass to fold up the excess cable length, as it always is. If I was running a computer shop, I'd probably use my clamp-on DC ammeter and make a few measurements, to see why the 8500 has a supply with a 25A rating on 5V. There's really no justification for that which I can spot visually. I have only one computer in the house, that used 5V @ 25A, and that was an AthlonXP box that runs the CPU off 5V. Whereas your machines (modern machines) run the CPU off the generous 12V rail. If you were to plug the 8500 into a Kill-A-Watt meter, it probably idles at 100W. Making it pretty hard for the 3.3V and 5V combined total to be 100W too. Those numbers would have to be lower than the 100W figure. ******* OK, I found a Sparkle with colored wires :-) You can see the low rails are a bit low on ampere capacity, and the price is $100. SPARKLE R-FSP600-80ETN 600W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.92 80+ PLATINUM Certified Active PFC ~$100 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIA6ZP40S8223 5.5" x 5.9" x 3.4" Len STD STD +3.3V @ 20A, +5V @ 18A, +12V @ 46A, -12V @ 0.3A, +5Vsb @ 3A \____ 100W max ____/ 552W 3.6W 15W Overall supply power no more than 600W combined 1 x 24 Pin Main Power Connector === probably not split 20+4 1 x EPS12V / ATX12V 4+4 Pin Connector 2 x PCI-E 6+2 Pin 6 x SATA 2 "chains" 4 x Molex Not really sure, no cable length specs either 1 x Floppy Why you're paying $100 for that, is the Platinum spec. There's only one level higher than platinum, and that's titanium. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus Really, no product seems to hit all the tick boxes at the same time. Paul |
#64
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Here's a diagram and pics of the
back of the 8500: ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-produ...nual_en-us.pdf http://i65.tinypic.com/29qi4h0.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/689ff6.jpg These were the power supplies I found on Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/Power-Supplies/SubCategory/ID-58 I'll go with Sparkle and the Platinum specs but isn't 600W allot? Will these be available for some time or are they like the HD's and better get them while I can? Also what about the 780? Here's a diagram and the specs although not good. http://www.dell.com/downloads/global...idebook_en.pdf http://i64.tinypic.com/166yczd.jpg Robert |
#65
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
Here's a diagram and pics of the back of the 8500: ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-produ...nual_en-us.pdf http://i65.tinypic.com/29qi4h0.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/689ff6.jpg These were the power supplies I found on Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/Power-Supplies/SubCategory/ID-58 I'll go with Sparkle and the Platinum specs but isn't 600W allot? Will these be available for some time or are they like the HD's and better get them while I can? Also what about the 780? Here's a diagram and the specs although not good. http://www.dell.com/downloads/global...idebook_en.pdf http://i64.tinypic.com/166yczd.jpg Robert For the 780, your spec on page 18, has the numbers for the minitower (MT). This appears to match your 166yczd.jpg picture, for the part I can see. The 12VA and 12VB portion are current-limited outputs, which can be handled by a supply with a combined (single) output. Even supplies which pretend to have a single output, can still have OCP protection that engages before the supply delivers the max current shown on the label. That's why I lumped them together here, to make it easier to match to a modern supply. 3.3V @ 8A, 5V @ 16A, 12V @ 25A, -12V @ 0.5A, +5VSB @ 4 amps \__ max 80w total__/ 240W Overall power for the complete supply 305W That's going to be easier to meet, on 3.3V and 5V, as even the 20A 20A 100W 80+ supplies can easily meet that. The 5VSB @ 4A is not something you'd normally find, but neither is it easy to imagine why you'd need that. Such a high capacity helps when charging your Apple iPad off the back of the 780, but you should really be using an Apple charger instead (so your "items" are independent of one another, and you could travel with your iPad and charge it in a hotel or whatever). When the 780 sleeps, if will use some where between 5VSB @ 1 amp and 5VSB @ 2 amps, so the spec is needlessly generous. Again, there are still details that matter, such as whether the case is a tight fit, whether it can accept a 6.5" long supply without bumping against the back of the optical drive. Isn't the 780 a scissor computer case ? If so, you'd want to study carefully, whether the cabling is extra-long for some reason. (Maybe the wire loom on an FSP wouldn't be long enough.) Your link to the Newegg site, shows the whole PSU category, rather than your selected choices. Your 29qi4h0.jpg picture, shows the back of the 8500. No generic replacement supply, is going to have what looks like a LED, underneath the power plug. While some of the items I saw today had sale prices, I don't think you should be in a giant rush to "buy something". ATX PSUs aren't going away... even if they do evolve slightly and make a nuisance of themselves when you go shopping :-) In terms of the time of year, yes, this is probably a good time to shop. When you get closer to fall or Christmas, the prices can go back up. What you don't want, is to be tricked into buying something that isn't a good match for the application. When I'm buying supplies these days, I hardly ever get the SATA/PATA mix I want, and invariably those disk drive cables are wanting. But it's pretty hard to find a supply with the right cabling, plus meet all the other stuff. That's why you need to look inside your computer, at the length of cables, and how many cables are needed to make it easy to cable up the disk drives and optical drive. On my other machine, I use Y-cables off a Molex for stuff. The Molex carry 6 to 8 amps (assuming the wire gauge is heavy enough), whereas the flimsy SATA connectors with their 3 amp rating, aren't good for fanning out with extenders. Even if you're not using Molex today, you might some day need an extender for some reason, and the Molex allows more amps to flow. Some supplies use really thin copper on the cables, which means the Molex would be tending towards a 6 amp limit. Paul |
#66
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
Here's a diagram and pics of the back of the 8500: ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-produ...nual_en-us.pdf http://i65.tinypic.com/29qi4h0.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/689ff6.jpg These were the power supplies I found on Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/Power-Supplies/SubCategory/ID-58 I'll go with Sparkle and the Platinum specs but isn't 600W allot? Will these be available for some time or are they like the HD's and better get them while I can? Also what about the 780? Here's a diagram and the specs although not good. http://www.dell.com/downloads/global...idebook_en.pdf http://i64.tinypic.com/166yczd.jpg Robert With regard to this... "but isn't 600W allot" Increasing the max power rating of the supply, doesn't affect how much it draws from the wall. Not for *small* changes in capacity (like changing from a 500W to a 600W, the effect would be minimal). If the motherboard uses 100W, a high efficiency 600W supply would draw 110W from the wall, and release 10W of heat through the PSU cooling fan. So rather than "running up your electric bill" with the 600W number, it is drawing 110W at idle. It would only hit 600W, if you bought a couple $1000 video cards and installed them and increased the internal electrical load. If you go too far up the curve, you might pay a price on efficiency and waste heat. Maybe a 1600W supply would release 20W into the room, when suppling 100W. The efficiency at low load isn't as good as it is half way out. A 1600W supply might be highly efficient at 800W of loading. And less efficient at other extremes. When I pick a power supply for you: 1) It might not look like it, but I'm trying to keep the price down. 2) I try not to specify "junk" for people. Yes, you can find a power supply for $20. But, if it only lasts for 3 months, and it doesn't have OVP or OCP, what would the damage to your computer cost ? I try to pick supplies where I think there is a possibility they have a minimal set of protections. 3) The industry wants to raise the prices. To increase their margin, they want to sell higher capacity supplies. Yet, if I shopped for a 350W unit, the replacement retail ones might "all be crap". So I have to adjust my selections, to the more mainstream units. The ones that maybe I can get a review rating. Or, enough people are purchasing them, I can get some idea from the Newegg reviews, as to whether they're good or not. The last one I bought here, was an EVGA 650W G2. Do I need 650W ? No! I don't own any $1000 video cards that suck down 300W. The one in this machine (an Enermax) is 465W, which is plenty. And that was back in the days when 465W was pretty generous, and that was more the "sweet spot" at the time. There are hundreds of supplies on the Newegg site that would probably nominally meet your requirements. But you have to make sure you have a laundry list of requirements, like how many cables do you actually need, do the cables have to be extra long. So there are refinements of the search process, which aren't in the handy menu on the left. You could also use a measuring tape, and see how much room you have realistically, for a longer supply. Maybe a 5.5" long one or a 6.5" long one would work. And by keeping the power rating down, I was hoping to keep the chassis of the supply short as well. (The 1600W one might be eight inches long. Generally, when they switch to multiple transformers for 12V, that makes the unit longer. Such units with separate transformers aren't all that common today.) Paul |
#67
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
On the 780 I lift a latch and the side removes.
On the 8500 I undo a screw and slide the panel back Here's the cabling the 780: http://i65.tinypic.com/2zdvr14.jpg Robert |
#68
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
I trust all your recommendations,..
I just was curious about the 600 Watts in stereo terms that's allot! However I appreciate you explaining things so I can understand. I'll have to open up the 8500 and 780 again to measure exactly how big the power supply is and how much spare room. This isn't an urgent thing as I said this is for in the near future and something I want to prepare for rather than waiting till the last minute. However, I have a few things I need to take care of first beforehand but I wanted to get an understanding of what I'll be getting. Robert |
#69
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
On the 780 I lift a latch and the side removes. On the 8500 I undo a screw and slide the panel back Here's the cabling the 780: http://i65.tinypic.com/2zdvr14.jpg Robert One thing that's different about that supply, is the main cable loom exits through a hole in the bottom of the supply. Most retail supplies are set up for ATX rather than BTX, and the loom comes out the back. That means the main cable is going to have to curve around the bottom of the supply before plugging into the main connector on the motherboard. The SATA power looks a bit different than on a retail supply. The two SATA power connectors are closer together than normal, at the end of the cable. I don't think a generic replacement, is going to look as "clean" as the setup looks right now. Paul |
#70
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Here are the measurements:
8500: http://i67.tinypic.com/jq125y.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/r8h0yc.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/25itbh2.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/241nsso.jpg 780: http://i65.tinypic.com/wtvo7.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/34q7d06.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/4uxr8x.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/14439sy.jpg Robert |
#71
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
Here are the measurements: 8500: http://i67.tinypic.com/jq125y.jpg 5.4" (Length) http://i63.tinypic.com/r8h0yc.jpg 5.91" ??? (STD width) http://i65.tinypic.com/25itbh2.jpg 3.39" (STD height) http://i65.tinypic.com/241nsso.jpg By eyeball, a 6.5" long power supply would still fit, if using modular. 780: http://i65.tinypic.com/wtvo7.jpg 5.5" (Length) http://i68.tinypic.com/34q7d06.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/4uxr8x.jpg 5.91" (STD width) http://i68.tinypic.com/14439sy.jpg 3.39" ??? (STD height, verify!!!) For the standard dimension measurements, it's probably easier for you to convince yourself that you are seeing 5.91" width and 3.39" height. Two of the dimensions of a standard ATX should be fixed. Occasionally you will see some really weird ideas on faceplate holes for the four screws. There have been screwups there, such as in a couple cases, putting the fan such that it's facing the *top* of the PC. Which isn't going to work for a lot of computer cases. The dimensions have to adhere to standards, because of the "tray and rail" systems used to support the PSU. They bend some of the sheet metal on the case, to make a means to hold the supply. On computer cases made out of soup tin metal, that's a challenge for them (too thin for its own good). If the main power cable comes out of the back of a retail PSU, it will need some bend radius to get 'round to the location of the main connector. A 6.5" would probably fit, but the bend would be a nuisance. Using a semi-modular with the main cable always attached, would take slightly less space. Looms generally never come out of the bottom of the PSU, right next to the fan body, not like the custom design used on yours. Part of the problem with the Dells, is listening to Intel and the introduction of BTX layout. The one thing that makes the industry work well, is the usage of the fewest standards possible. And BTX was one standard too many. Paul |
#72
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
So are my power supply's going to be hard to
find? Will the Sparkle be around fro awhile? and what about the custom design where the loom comes out the bottom? Thanks, Robert |
#73
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
So are my power supply's going to be hard to find? Will the Sparkle be around fro awhile? and what about the custom design where the loom comes out the bottom? Thanks, Robert If you shop for a shorter length supply, then that will leave room for the cable to come out the back, bend around, and plug into the motherboard. You will likely need to chain a couple nylon wraps together, to get a "holder" to hold the excess of main cable run (since the replacement supply will have a much longer main cable length, than the custom one you have now). You can see in this example, how the main cable had to snake around like the letter "C", to take up the slack. Things don't always work out that nicely, and sometimes you have to scrunch up a hunk of cable, to deal with all of it. https://www.pcper.com/images/reviews/35/Dr_Cable.jpg If we look at the FSP one https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9SIABP94H47035 it has cable lengths in the spec table. The main cable is 600mm or two feet. Now, imagine that run of cable coming out the back of the PSU, bending around and going to the motherboard. There might be a whole extra foot of cable in excess. A foot isn't enough to fold up and put a nylon tie around, so you might try the letter C trick. One of your cases has cable guides for holding cables "in flight". When people do "beauty builds", they use computer cases where the excess wire is hidden behind the motherboard, and comes back through to the surface again through grometted holes. And that's how they hide the excess cable. I don't have any cases here that allow such a thing, and all my excess cable is just clumped in a big mess right in the top center of the case. Nothing I do here, wins any beauty contests. It's possible to buy Molex shells, Molex pins, get a pin removal tool, get a crimping tool, and "customize" a wire loom to the correct length for the job. But of course, if you were expecting to make a warranty claim later for a bad PSU, the warranty would be voided by cutting the excess cable out of the loom. It's not recommended to change the wire color. To change the wires on a non-modular design, requires heating up the PCB that holds a ton of wires. It requires a lot of heat, like a 200W soldering iron or a blow torch device (to get the BTUs needed). There is a lot of solder to heat, to change out the wires. For the modular cabling situations, it might be possible to buy separate (replacement) cables, but there aren't necessarily enough "standards" on the PSU end, to make this approach practical. Some of the first modular supplies were a disaster, because the connectors were not keyed or made unique. You could plug the wrong cable into a modular hole. Some even allowed cables to go in upside-down, blowing out the motherboard or other stuff. The designs today are much more intelligent, so this is less likely to happen on a "fully modular" supply. I wouldn't say that all this stuff is "impossible", but you do have to keep your wits about you, use your imagination to see how the new item will fit in the case. Whether any tricks will be needed. And how ugly the result is going to look like, and whether you even want to think about that part. ******* If you shop for an *exact replacement* for the existing PSU, you get the shape and wire lengths and wire locations. But what you might not get, is the absolute best electrical design of the PSU guts. That's why I haven't been pursuing the problem with that approach. Because what is in there could be "chinese crap". There's no way to know on a given unit like that, how many corners were cut. And what are the odds, the PSU actually came from the same factory as the original ? The supplies that HP and Dell use, while the power ratings may seem low, the specs for the supply are generally pretty good, and you can load it up right to the power limit without a problem. So they can be good from that perspective. But are they 80+ efficient ? Do they have low ripple ? Supplies like that, generally aren't reviewed by anyone with a power supply tester, so it's hard to say for sure. And I also don't know what a "Dell Parts Store" would stock for such a thing. They would probably be as neat and tidy as the original. Paul |
#74
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Hmmmmm I see what your saying about the length
of the FSP cable. There's no where to put it. Why do they make it so long in the first place? I went to the Dell store, and this what I found; all refurbished. https://pilot.search.dell.com/8500xps%20power%20supply What do you think of refurbished power supplies if I can't find a new supply that fits? Also why would Dell use such a unconventional power supply, like their 750 GB HD? It seems a very unconventional computer. https://www.staples.com/DELL-780-Tow...roduct_1498887 So far, we've picked the 'Sparkle' for the 8500 and now were trying to find something for the 780. Next question is the availability, how long do you think I have for the power supplies before I can't get them at all? As far as the HD's, I'm going to try and pick up more Moo1's. For me, the 8500 and the 780 work well together and have enough memory etc. The 8500 is very fast and the 780 just a tad behind. I especially like the fact that I'm still using the Dell monitor for the 780 that came with the 8200(which I boxed while it was still functional). It might be fun someday to take it out of the box and hook it up and see if it still works. We sure added allot to keep it running and up to date. I think the last thing we did was adding 2.0 ports. Robert Robert |
#75
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O.T. Mrimg backups, clones, restore images step by step (Paul)
Mark Twain wrote:
Hmmmmm I see what your saying about the length of the FSP cable. There's no where to put it. Why do they make it so long in the first place? I went to the Dell store, and this what I found; all refurbished. https://pilot.search.dell.com/8500xps%20power%20supply What do you think of refurbished power supplies if I can't find a new supply that fits? Also why would Dell use such a unconventional power supply, like their 750 GB HD? It seems a very unconventional computer. https://www.staples.com/DELL-780-Tow...roduct_1498887 So far, we've picked the 'Sparkle' for the 8500 and now were trying to find something for the 780. Next question is the availability, how long do you think I have for the power supplies before I can't get them at all? As far as the HD's, I'm going to try and pick up more Moo1's. For me, the 8500 and the 780 work well together and have enough memory etc. The 8500 is very fast and the 780 just a tad behind. I especially like the fact that I'm still using the Dell monitor for the 780 that came with the 8200(which I boxed while it was still functional). It might be fun someday to take it out of the box and hook it up and see if it still works. We sure added allot to keep it running and up to date. I think the last thing we did was adding 2.0 ports. Robert Refurbished electronics, the electrolytic capacitors have a 15-17 professed lifespan based on "drying out". A capacitor company in the states contains a statement to that effect on their web site. Electrolytic capacitor manufacturing is rather standardized, for the most part. However, in the "bad-cap" era, there was some industrial espionage, where a formula for electrolyte was stolen. Only problem was, the formula was wrong. Billions of capacitors were made the wrong way. This caused one particular Dell, to have practically a 100% failure rate for one of their motherboards. (The motherboard used some of those bad capacitors, and compared to other brands, every one of the boards failed due to them. Some university sites claimed their failures were in the high 90% range.) Power supplies have those caps. Usually the big (dangerous) cap or caps, are well made. Some of the smaller ones though, can leak. I have an Antec here for example, where I bought it new (like you, thinking ahead), tested it once on my load tester, put it back in the box. Pulled it out of the box two years later, and the output caps were leaking, and any computer you connected it to, would crash. That's because with the leaking caps, there was no proper filtering on +5V. All four caps on +5V were leaking. While we hope those capacitors have "disappeared" from the market, what would it mean for a refurb ? In the case of that sample Dell (worst case) motherboard, the only way to buy those safely off Ebay, is if the advert says "re-capped", meaning someone spent $50 to change all the caps. While I doubt Dell would pull a fast one, that's some of the history of fast ones that needs to be considered. You would try to find customer comments if possible, with regard to what they received when they purchased that refurb. A refurb is not likely to have a long warranty (a standard industry practice for such things). If a PSU is modular, at least in theory there is a way to do a custom cable for it, and do a neater job. But I haven't done that here, and have no intention of investing in the right crimpers, extractors, and so on. I did manage to buy the Molex pins at my one good electronics store, but they didn't carry the nylon shells or I would have bought some of those too. I think to remove a pin, there is a tool that slides over it and depresses the "spikes" that prevent the pin from slipping out. Usually there is a retention feature that only allows the pin to move one way. I use my spare PSU as much for "testing", as for immediate deployment. Paul |
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