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#1
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If .iso file is needed . . .
My computer, like many nowadays, came with Win 7 SP1 installed and
"registered" at the assembly point. I also downloaded from Microsoft the Windows 7 SP1 .iso file. Since I do not have the "key" if I ever need to use the .iso file, will it ask for my registration key, and if so, am I up the proverbial creek since I don't have it? How does it work in a case like mine? Thank you for any insights. Tony |
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#2
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If .iso file is needed . . .
Tony wrote:
My computer, like many nowadays, came with Win 7 SP1 installed and "registered" at the assembly point. I also downloaded from Microsoft the Windows 7 SP1 .iso file. Since I do not have the "key" if I ever need to use the .iso file, will it ask for my registration key, and if so, am I up the proverbial creek since I don't have it? How does it work in a case like mine? Thank you for any insights. Tony The following link has several programs for finding the key; http://pcsupport.about.com/od/produc...pkeyfinder.htm HTH -- Sir_George |
#3
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If .iso file is needed . . .
Tony wrote:
My computer, like many nowadays, came with Win 7 SP1 installed and "registered" at the assembly point. I also downloaded from Microsoft the Windows 7 SP1 .iso file. Since I do not have the "key" if I ever need to use the .iso file, will it ask for my registration key, and if so, am I up the proverbial creek since I don't have it? How does it work in a case like mine? Thank you for any insights. Tony Windows 7 OEM uses BIOS SLIC activation, as well as using a COA sticker on the side of the box, suited to re-installation of the OS using a retail installer disc. In other words, if you need to reinstall the OS using a Microsoft retail disc, the key should be on a COA sticker. Windows 8 OEM stores an actual key in the BIOS chip. The key can be used to automatically activate either the OEM version of the OS, or a retail re-installation done with a Microsoft disc. As a result, no COA sticker need be placed on the outside of the computer. A disadvantage of the Windows 8 implementation, is it is not as generous. With the old SLIC scheme, some computers could support multiple OEM OSes. You could take your Win7 OEM machine, remove the OS, and restore using the WinXP OEM disc for some previous generation of computers. (Of course, the drivers would be wrong.) The Windows 8 scheme, the key in the BIOS doesn't necessarily allow any regression. And I haven't heard whether any OEM uses both the Win8 key method and a SLIC table at the same time. I don't know if that would be legal, would be extra cost to them, or what. Since your question is about a Windows 7 computer, look for the COA sticker. Some laptops, the sticker is inside the battery bay. If you can't see it adhered to the bottom of the laptop, then check inside the battery bay. The computer should be completely off, before you pull the battery, not sleeping... The COA appears to be designed to damage easily, rendering the key unreadable. At your earliest convenience, take a picture of it with a digital camera, and store it on all of your other computers. If the disk drive dies on that computer, and the COA is scratched right off, your digital photo will have a copy for you. The printing technique used for the key, doesn't appear to use a very good ink transfer method, so the dot density is not good. And won't stand a lot of scratching. Your camera will likely need a macro setting, or some sort of zoom thing, to get a good picture. (Sure, you could write the key in a text file, but where is the fun in that ? :-) ) Paul |
#4
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If .iso file is needed . . .
Paul wrote on 12/22/2014 8:52 PM:
Tony wrote: My computer, like many nowadays, came with Win 7 SP1 installed and "registered" at the assembly point. I also downloaded from Microsoft the Windows 7 SP1 .iso file. Since I do not have the "key" if I ever need to use the .iso file, will it ask for my registration key, and if so, am I up the proverbial creek since I don't have it? How does it work in a case like mine? Thank you for any insights. Tony The COA appears to be designed to damage easily, rendering the key unreadable. At your earliest convenience, take a picture of it with a digital camera, and store it on all of your other computers. If the disk drive dies on that computer, and the COA is scratched right off, your digital photo will have a copy for you. The printing technique used for the key, doesn't appear to use a very good ink transfer method, so the dot density is not good. And won't stand a lot of scratching. Your camera will likely need a macro setting, or some sort of zoom thing, to get a good picture. (Sure, you could write the key in a text file, but where is the fun in that ? :-) ) Paul If it's on the outside, lay the laptop on a flatbed and scan it! :-) |
#5
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If .iso file is needed . . .
Big_Al wrote on 12/23/2014 10:44 AM:
If it's on the outside, lay the laptop on a flatbed and scan it! :-) :-) |
#6
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If .iso file is needed . . .
Big_Al wrote:
Paul wrote on 12/22/2014 8:52 PM: Tony wrote: My computer, like many nowadays, came with Win 7 SP1 installed and "registered" at the assembly point. I also downloaded from Microsoft the Windows 7 SP1 .iso file. Since I do not have the "key" if I ever need to use the .iso file, will it ask for my registration key, and if so, am I up the proverbial creek since I don't have it? How does it work in a case like mine? Thank you for any insights. Tony The COA appears to be designed to damage easily, rendering the key unreadable. At your earliest convenience, take a picture of it with a digital camera, and store it on all of your other computers. If the disk drive dies on that computer, and the COA is scratched right off, your digital photo will have a copy for you. The printing technique used for the key, doesn't appear to use a very good ink transfer method, so the dot density is not good. And won't stand a lot of scratching. Your camera will likely need a macro setting, or some sort of zoom thing, to get a good picture. (Sure, you could write the key in a text file, but where is the fun in that ? :-) ) Paul If it's on the outside, lay the laptop on a flatbed and scan it! :-) That'll work with a CCD scanner (good depth of field), but not so well with the CMOS ones. For scanners based on CMOS sensors, the item has to be pressed right on the glass, with no gap. http://www.carlmcmillan.com/DOF/DepthofField.htm Paul |
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