I killed a mouse today

On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so they're fine
with me.


From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries. 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed. Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts. When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

....

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)

--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 2019-11-03 8:01 a.m., Carlos E.R. wrote:
On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so they're fine
with me.


From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries. 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed. Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts. When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

...

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)


Good thought, It led me to check the cells in my 2 Digital volt meters
this morning, I put them in new about 3 years ago.
Of the 6 cells 5 of them read between 1.53 to 1.55 volts and 1 read 5.87
volts for some reason.
The new Panasonic's all read about 1.605 volts, I changed them all
anyway, these meters cost ove$125.00 many years ago, no sense putting
them in danger for 3 dollars worth of batteries.

Rene

On 2019-11-03 9:53 a.m., Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-11-03 8:01 a.m., Carlos E.R. wrote:
On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul
wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out
when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so
they're fine
with me.


Â*From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices
using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries.Â* 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed.Â* Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts.Â* When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

...

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)


Â*Good thought, It led me to check the cells in my 2 Digital volt meters
this morning, I put them in new about 3 years ago.
Of the 6 cells 5 of them read between 1.53 to 1.55 volts and 1 read 5.87
volts for some reason.
The new Panasonic's all read about 1.605 volts, I changed them all
anyway, these meters cost ove$125.00 many years ago, no sense putting
them in danger for 3 dollars worth of batteries.

Rene


Geez, 1 read 1.58 volts *not 5.87* volts.

Rene

On 11/2/2019 6:29 PM, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-11-02 8:06 p.m., Char Jackson wrote:
On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:38:22 -0500, Rene Lamontagne wrote:

On 2019-11-02 5:11 p.m., s|b wrote:
On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 17:07:48 -0500, Rene Lamontagne wrote:

Apparently their are 2 series, The first series were deemed Great, :-)
the second series not so much. :-(
I had the second series. :-(

Damn! I didn't know that. I was thinking of buying another one, to keep
as a backup.


You can find some details here re the two versions

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wire...ews/B003TG75EG.

I've apparently been lucky. I've bought a half dozen M705's in recent years
and I see now that all of them have been Series II. After reading the
reviews that describe the differences between that and Series I, I'm very
happy with what I have. The last thing I need is another button, especially
a button under my thumb.


I don't like side or thumb buttons, my hands are too large and I can't
reach them easily, I'm happy with just the regular buttons.


My mouse, an Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical Ergonomic Optical Mouse, which
to me is far and away the best mouse I've ever used, has three side
buttons. They're there, but I never use them. I am also happy with just
the regular buttons.

--
Ken

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:38:22 -0500, Rene Lamontagne wrote:

You can find some details here re the two versions

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wire...ews/B003TG75EG.

Tnx, although the description doesn't fit 100%, the battery compartment
says M-R0009, so I'm good. I don't think I understand what 'less
features' is meant. There are no side buttons on the newer version?

I'm very fond of those buttons, I use them all the time in Agent (back
and forward button are set up so they act like N and R in Agent, thumb
button reacts to Ctrl+H) and also when in my browsers.

--
s|b

In article , VanguardLH
wrote:


The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC.

nope. alkaline is 1.5v, nicad/nimh is 1.2v and lithium is 1.7v.

From
my reading, it was when it got down to 1.4VDC that it was considered
dead and when it posed a hazard to the device therafter due to leakage.

also wrong.

"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so they're fine
with me.


From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries. 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed. Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts. When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

...

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)

The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC. From
my reading, it was when it got down to 1.4VDC that it was considered
dead and when it posed a hazard to the device therafter due to leakage.
However, that also assumes the batteries have a nice home in which to
get stored, like in the same environ in which you live. However,
devices that suffer extremes of temperatures (hot summer, cold winter)
should probably have their batteries replaced sooner, like a flashlight
you leave out in the garage or store in a toolbox in your car.

While I could measure every battery when checking if it is below voltage
and needs to be replaced, well, I'm already putzing with the device, so
why not just put in fresh batteries? Yeah, I'll probably replace
batteries before they've gone dead, but I also don't want to go use a
device to then find out the battery I saved some money by using it
longer is now dead and I can't use the device. I could taking out the
batteries to test their voltage and put them back in if okay, or I could
at that time put in fresh batteries and those would have a longer life
than the used ones I decided to keep reusing just because their voltage
was okay at test time.

The TV remote gets used everyday, so I'll know when its battery is
getting weak. I don't want to trying to use a flashlight or stair
lights during a power outage only to find out that the battery that
tested okay many months ago is too weak to provide light during the
outage. I don't want to test the batteries for my DVM when at home to
find the batteries had sufficient voltage only to be at a site some
months later to find out the voltage was okay but not the capacity, so
the DVM dies too soon while on the job. Voltage doesn't means capacity
when the battery is not under load. You can have a flashlight that is
dim but its battery measures just fine on voltage when you remove it
from the flashlight. Your car battery might show 12.6VDC across its
terminals, and 14.xVDC with the alternator running, but it still cannot
start your car on a cold winter day. Not enough capacity. Do you EVER
measure your batteries under load? No, you remove them and test just
their voltage.

It isn't just that the battery has enough voltage when measured out of
circuit with a DVM, but also how long the battery will operate the
device. Oh, goody, the old battery still works. Oops, nope, it just
died. Yeah, you could try to get your DVM across the battery that is
still inside a flashlight AND with the flashlight turned on, but nobody
does that. Fresh batteries give me both voltage and capacity. I don't
bother measuring them, just replace them.

In article , Carlos E.R.
wrote:

I have an old analog multimeter with a position for testing batteries,
under load :-)

i have one as well. it's quite handy, especially with older batteries
that show strong under no load and fall flat under load.

It loads them with a resistor in parallel to the battery. What I don't
remember is if it measures voltage or current.

voltage.

the meter likely also measures current, but that's a separate setting,
one which most meters have (other than the most basic).

There should be a published standard for doing this, somewhere.

there no doubt is, probably more than one

In article , Rene Lamontagne
wrote:

The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC.

nope. alkaline is 1.5v, nicad/nimh is 1.2v and lithium is 1.7v.

From
my reading, it was when it got down to 1.4VDC that it was considered
dead and when it posed a hazard to the device therafter due to leakage.

also wrong.

this is *Not wrong*

it is wrong.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaline_battery#Voltage
The nominal voltage of a fresh alkaline cell as established by
manufacturer standards is 1.5 V. The effective zero-load voltage
of a non discharged alkaline battery, however, varies from 1.50 to
1.65 V

nominal != open circuit

Test of 3 types of new fresh cells with accurate volt meter

Maxell AAA 4 cells Avg 1.592 volts no load
Panasonic AA 4 cells Avg 1.602 volts no load
Energizer AA lithium 2 cells 1.845 volts no load

that's open circuit voltage, not nominal.

you're actually confirming what i said.

In article , Carlos E.R.
wrote:

The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC.

nope. alkaline is 1.5v, nicad/nimh is 1.2v and lithium is 1.7v.

Wrong. Me, as professional in electronics, tell you that you are wrong.

not wrong, and you even admitted as much in another post.

In article , Carlos E.R.
wrote:
I have rechargeable batteries on it, so the normal battery voltage is a
bit above 1.2; 1.2 is way below a standard battery voltage of 1.5, so if
I used normal batteries which as you say can be considered dead at 1.4,
the device continues working happily way below 1.4 and there is no
external clue.

On 03/11/2019 16.53, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-11-03 8:01 a.m., Carlos E.R. wrote:
On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul
wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out
when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so
they're fine
with me.


Â*From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices
using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries.Â* 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed.Â* Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts.Â* When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

...

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)


Â*Good thought, It led me to check the cells in my 2 Digital volt meters
this morning, I put them in new about 3 years ago.
Of the 6 cells 5 of them read between 1.53 to 1.55 volts and 1 read 5.87
volts for some reason.

5.87? Impossible unless the cell is a 9 volt unit (or a 15 volt unit).
Or it is 0.587 (some meters autoadjust the scale).

The new Panasonic's all read about 1.605 volts, I changed them all
anyway, these meters cost ove$125.00 many years ago, no sense putting
them in danger for 3 dollars worth of batteries.

1.6 volts means the 1.5V battery is good as new.

--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 03/11/2019 17.01, Rene Lamontagne wrote:


Â*Â*Good thought, It led me to check the cells in my 2 Digital volt
meters this morning, I put them in new about 3 years ago.
Of the 6 cells 5 of them read between 1.53 to 1.55 volts and 1 read
5.87 volts for some reason.
The new Panasonic's all read about 1.605 volts, I changed them all
anyway, these meters cost ove$125.00 many years ago, no sense putting
them in danger for 3 dollars worth of batteries.

Rene


Geez, 1 read 1.58 volts *not 5.87* volts.

Ah! Ok. :-)


--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 03/11/2019 21.01, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 15.16, VanguardLH wrote:
"Carlos E.R." wrote:

On 02/11/2019 03.32, Paul wrote:
Char Jackson wrote:
On Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:50:47 -0400, Paul wrote:

SC Tom wrote:

+1 on the Duracell warning. I had to completely disassemble and
clean a TV remote after it started acting erratically. Baking soda
and a soldering iron fixed it :-(
I had the same experience with a pack of Maxell batteries. They're
on my Sheldon Cooper mortal enemy list, too :-)
There are no Duracells in my spare battery heap.

Experience is the best teacher.

Checking my box of spare batteries, I see that all are Duracell,
except for
a lone AA Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable. I'm not sure what that Sanyo is
still
doing there, since Sanyo sold that technology ages ago.

No problems with Duracell here. I'm sure I don't seek them out when it's
time to buy, but they seem to be as good as anything else so they're fine
with me.


From the outgoing battery box.

https://i.postimg.cc/kMRJsxcw/duracell.jpg

Maybe what you have to blame is not the batteries, but the devices using
them way beyond they are dead without warning the user (beep, beep...).
Many battery operated devices nowdays use so little current that they
can work with voltages close to 1 volt for months, and it is this which
causes the batteries to leak "earlier" than they would normally.

How does a flashlight that remains powered off waiting until it next
gets used in any way alter the state of battery or put any load on it?

Bulb or led?

Because a led flashlight may work fine with a battery giving 1.45 volts,
but not a bulb item. If the flashlight works, you keep it there in
storage some months more. But at that voltage, the battery is already
bad and should be replaced soon.

I just lost 2 flashlights when going through everything with a
replaceable battery to replace the batteries. 2 others were recoverable
because the leakage was not corrosive but just caked up around the
contact which was easily removed. Those with Duracells that leaked had
eaten the contacts. When placed in service is when you start measuring
the year for after which you should replace the batteries.

Well, here it has not happened to me with Duracells yet. In fact, it
happened to me with the supermarket brand and I changed to Duracell or
Energizer as a safer choice. My supermarket does not offer Panasonic -
except on rechargeables.

Maybe the same brand doesn't manufacture the same on every market.

We should check installed batteries periodically, I think. Below 1.5,
replace.

...

(over the rest, I read it, but have no comment to offer)

The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC. From
my reading, it was when it got down to 1.4VDC that it was considered
dead and when it posed a hazard to the device therafter due to leakage.
However, that also assumes the batteries have a nice home in which to
get stored, like in the same environ in which you live. However,
devices that suffer extremes of temperatures (hot summer, cold winter)
should probably have their batteries replaced sooner, like a flashlight
you leave out in the garage or store in a toolbox in your car.

While I could measure every battery when checking if it is below voltage
and needs to be replaced, well, I'm already putzing with the device, so
why not just put in fresh batteries? Yeah, I'll probably replace
batteries before they've gone dead, but I also don't want to go use a
device to then find out the battery I saved some money by using it
longer is now dead and I can't use the device. I could taking out the
batteries to test their voltage and put them back in if okay, or I could
at that time put in fresh batteries and those would have a longer life
than the used ones I decided to keep reusing just because their voltage
was okay at test time.

The TV remote gets used everyday, so I'll know when its battery is
getting weak.

My point is you don't :-)

This morning I looked at one TV remote, and the voltage was below 1.1 or
1.0, and the thing was working.

I have rechargeable batteries on it, so the normal battery voltage is a
bit above 1.2; 1.2 is way below a standard battery voltage of 1.5, so if
I used normal batteries which as you say can be considered dead at 1.4,
the device continues working happily way below 1.4 and there is no
external clue.

That was my original point :-)

I don't want to trying to use a flashlight or stair
lights during a power outage only to find out that the battery that
tested okay many months ago is too weak to provide light during the
outage.

Well, I keep a package of fresh batteries and I know where they are :-)

My normal flashlight is rechargeable via USB, though.

I don't want to test the batteries for my DVM when at home to
find the batteries had sufficient voltage only to be at a site some
months later to find out the voltage was okay but not the capacity, so
the DVM dies too soon while on the job. Voltage doesn't means capacity
when the battery is not under load. You can have a flashlight that is
dim but its battery measures just fine on voltage when you remove it
from the flashlight. Your car battery might show 12.6VDC across its
terminals, and 14.xVDC with the alternator running, but it still cannot
start your car on a cold winter day. Not enough capacity. Do you EVER
measure your batteries under load? No, you remove them and test just
their voltage.


I have an old analog multimeter with a position for testing batteries,
under load :-)

It loads them with a resistor in parallel to the battery. What I don't
remember is if it measures voltage or current.

There should be a published standard for doing this, somewhere.

It isn't just that the battery has enough voltage when measured out of
circuit with a DVM, but also how long the battery will operate the
device. Oh, goody, the old battery still works. Oops, nope, it just
died. Yeah, you could try to get your DVM across the battery that is
still inside a flashlight AND with the flashlight turned on, but nobody
does that. Fresh batteries give me both voltage and capacity. I don't
bother measuring them, just replace them.



--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 03/11/2019 20.32, nospam wrote:
In article , VanguardLH
wrote:


The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC.

nope. alkaline is 1.5v, nicad/nimh is 1.2v and lithium is 1.7v.


Wrong. Me, as professional in electronics, tell you that you are wrong.



--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 2019-11-03 1:32 p.m., nospam wrote:
In article , VanguardLH
wrote:


The nominal voltage of a fresh (and good) AA battery is 1.65VDC.

nope. alkaline is 1.5v, nicad/nimh is 1.2v and lithium is 1.7v.

From
my reading, it was when it got down to 1.4VDC that it was considered
dead and when it posed a hazard to the device therafter due to leakage.

also wrong.


this is *Not wrong*

Test of 3 types of new fresh cells with accurate volt meter

Maxell AAA 4 cells Avg 1.592 volts no load
Panasonic AA 4 cells Avg 1.602 volts no load
Energizer AA lithium 2 cells 1.845 volts no load

And yes, when I test batteries I use a load Tester with a load
calibrated for each type and size of cell.

Rene