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#91
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O.T. Macrium
Here's my map/report:
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...edf2a217378 e I guess I live in the woods *L* actually the desert with hills around me. I didn't think I would get much. I'm wondering if it's even worth it? Maybe stick to my DVD's like before. There's not much on TV anyway. I bought this Terk Tower for the tuner before it got fried but it only picked up one more station although I did notice the signal was 'cleaner' and didn't drift. The green light is actually a adjustment for + or - https://www.ebay.com/itm/TERK-Amplif...rd!92544!US!-1 Now the weird part of this is,. I have a cheap clock radio and it picks up allot of stations as well as my car radio. Now how can they pick up the stations but a dedicated quality stereo tuner can't? Thanks, Robert |
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#92
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O.T. Macrium (now OT - television reception!)
In message , Paul
writes: Mark Twain wrote: I thought I had a balun and rabbit ears In fact, I know I do, but damned if I can find it. In any case, I decided to buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TERK-TVOMA1...idirectional-F lat-Digital-HDTV-Antenna-/302565532675?_trksid=p5731.m3795 what do you think? I found the HDMI input under Video http://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-28LN4500-led-tv [] Thanks, Robert I couldn't find a good reference on the square antenna. It could be hiding this sort of thing inside. A fractal antenna. They don't have to use wire for those, and the antenna could be made from FR4 with copper tracks on it in the desired pattern. The phasing on some of these, is intended to combine the signals and drop the characteristic impedance. Which is how the antennas in the examples here, manage to get a bit closer to 75 ohms. That's what the two "rails" in the center are for. Impedance conversion. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...nna-for-HDTV-D TV-plus-/ When I needed an antenna, I build a Gray-Hoverman. One with extra elements for VHF. And that's because the bureaucrats Is that better than a Yagi? (I once got hold of Yagi's original paper: surprisingly long ago - 1920s I think. [When he wrote it, I mean - I'm not that old!]) here thought it would be cool to give the TV industry zero dollars to subsidize new transmission equipment. And a side effect, is a couple transmitters just used the old analog setup, on something like channel 6. They changed the modulation of the transmitter, for the digital signal, but the "power" part is just the old equipment. It means our channels here, they could have all been placed on UHF (simplifying things and making the square antenna more practical), but instead the band remains split between some stations being on VHF and the rest being on UHF. Then it means a physically larger antenna to get VHF. UHF works with smaller dimensions. If I only needed a UHF antenna, I could have continued using my old one. Whereas here in UK, things went the other way: VHF would have covered the country with far fewer transmitters (and did), but we went to UHF for 625 lines (what some call "PAL", though strictly that's the colour method), so that the existing VHF network could continue to supply the old 405 line system. (Which remained operating until I think 197x!) My Gray Hoverman was designed "for the cottage" rather than an urban setting. To use it in the city, I'd need a rotator because it only has a 15 degree beamwidth. Since I have TV transmitters on two major different vectors, it requires rotating the antenna to either vector to get a signal. Or two aerials. (I don't think I've ever seen a domestic TV aerial here with a rotator; but, we are very fortunate that our networks were mostly designed to co-site the transmitters.) It the antenna is isotropic, and has a wide beam width, then you hardly ever need to fiddle with it. Though few, at least those with wire elements, are truly isotropic. In one of the TV forums, the "experts" there never buy an antenna, without seeing the beam pattern versus frequency. And I was hoping to find a little backgrounder on the square antenna, with some good pictures of results. As that helps predict whether it'll be a practical purchase or not. Amplifiers are a good choice for distribution - if you're driving 100 feet of cheap down-lead, then sticking an amp on the head end, might help reduce the loss. Amplifiers always have a "noise figure", and indiscriminate use of amps leads to a degradation in the noise part of "S/N". Yes, amplified room aerials aren't in general of that much benefit, unless your TV is particularly deaf. In general, I wouldn't buy a "by-the-set" amplifier (except for signal splitting between two or more sets) unless it had a noise figure mentioned on the box, and few such do have. As you say, other end of downlead is a different matter. So a 60dB amp isn't "twice as good" as a 30dB amp, or a loaf of bread baked for twice as long is burned, rather than being "twice as good". So if you see I like that analogy! exaggerated claims for the amp, keep that in mind :-) The TV has AGC (automatic gain control on RF) and probably works from 10uV to 1V or so in amplitude. The TV will turn up its own gain on a weak signal. Indeed. A stated noise figure would be good there too, but again is very rare; even a uV one is, I think. One difference with DTV, is the response to the signal. You can go from a crystal clear picture, to a black screen (LOS) with only a 2dB drop in level. There isn't nearly the graceful degradation as there was with analog NTSC. A missing channel could be close to the (And analog PAL.) right level, or way way down and totally out of reach, and you can't really tell. This (combined with the more or less total decline in technical support from the broadcasters from the general public) has also allowed other near band - actually in-band for most equipment, as they keep reallocating bits of the band to the ravenous mobile (cellular) section - to increase with impunity; with analogue signals, viewers could see that what was stopping them viewing properly was interference, but with digital, they just suffer in silence (and frustration). One amazing thing that happened here, was getting a TV tuner card for the PC and comparing it to my settop box. A world of difference. The STB could only get three channels regularly. The TV tuner card (using the same signal) gets everything known to exist in the city. While propagation characteristics change from month to month, the difference I'm seeing really looks like the TV tuner does something different from a DSP perspective. As I don't think this is just "moar amp". It's not an amplifier effect. Despite what I said above about room amplifiers, I was very agreeably surprised recently when trying out a TV stick that came with an "amplified aerial" (telescopic rod, but needed a separate USB socket to power it); it got most of the channels available in the area, where I'd expected to need to connect the roof aerial. (I _was_ trying upstairs.) It even got usable signals - some breakup - from many of the channels from an another transmitter site. (I was at NE6 5AD - main signals from Pontop Pike, others possibly from one of its fill-ins [Fenham?].) I _didn't_ try it without the aerial powered, to see if just the stick was more sensitive than they've been in the past (it might not have worked at all unpowered, anyway). It's fun to play with. Too bad I'm not all that interested in TV :-) (-: Paul John -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf The squeamish will squeam a lot. (Barry Norman on the film "300", in Radio Times 30 March-5 April 2013.) |
#93
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O.T. Macrium
Mark Twain wrote:
Here's my map/report: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...edf2a217378 e I guess I live in the woods *L* actually the desert with hills around me. I didn't think I would get much. I'm wondering if it's even worth it? Maybe stick to my DVD's like before. There's not much on TV anyway. I bought this Terk Tower for the tuner before it got fried but it only picked up one more station although I did notice the signal was 'cleaner' and didn't drift. The green light is actually a adjustment for + or - https://www.ebay.com/itm/TERK-Amplif...rd!92544!US!-1 Now the weird part of this is,. I have a cheap clock radio and it picks up allot of stations as well as my car radio. Now how can they pick up the stations but a dedicated quality stereo tuner can't? Thanks, Robert I'm not really good with FM, so I can't tell you why the Clock Radio is better. The clock radio can use a ferrite bar for AM, but they probably wouldn't do that for FM. Ferrite does go up to fairly high frequencies, but I haven't run into an example of doing FM that way. And there isn't room for much of an FM structure inside a radio. I tried a 300ohm antenna for FM here, which is really just a "bag full of wire", and I can't say it was "sensitive" at all. I couldn't receive like I was running a shortwave radio or anything. ******* Your TV map has a couple VHF stations (10 and 5) and one UHF (25). The products you've been looking at which are mainly UHF band, are going to make getting 25 easier. I can't promise you how the "10 and 5" are going to work out. The three stations in question, are all in the same direction. So you only need to point the antenna once for the three of them. The question would be, what kind of smallish antenna would give good coverage on UHF and VHF. The people selling them aren't very honest about this. ******* This is mine, only mine has a completely different support structure :-) Mine looks like a clothes dryer rack, with four vertical pipes and sits on the floor. Mine isn't intended for outdoor use like this one is. Mine was intended to sit on the floor somewhere (original intent was in an attic with a tall ceiling above it). But it just barely fits in available space in the living room, for testing. Roughly $200 in materials went into mine, because I had some "do-overs". I actually made a "drill assist" for a hand drill, to emulate a drill press in an attempt to make holes in stuff, with less than one degree of positional error. I used a foot long drill bit from the hardware store, sized to drill holes for the copper tubing. Based on my material cost, I lost money by about a factor of two, by DIY. I could have bought an equivalent antenna for less. http://www.instructables.com/id/GH10...an-TV-Antenna/ It might not be clear there, but that antenna is 3D and has depth. It's pretty deep from back to front. But it would pick up your 10 and 5, and with 100% readings. A more basic one is here. The zigzag parts are UHF. The top coupled elements are VHF (and probably weren't present on the antenna Hoverman designed). http://www.idc-online.com/technical_...TV_antenna.pdf That one has a gain curve, and you can see the antenna "peaks" at 660MHz or so. That's a general shape for UHF antennas, you can't make them exactly flat over a wide range. The graph doesn't really go down far enough, as it's not showing us the important VHF stuff (off the graph to the left). The antenna in that example, should do well on your channel 25 (maybe 8dB gain over isotropic). VHF LOW 05 76-82 MHz VHF HIGH 10 192-198 MHz UHF 25 536-542 MHz The top of VHF High is 210-216 MHz and that is channel 13. ******* Back when I got my STB, this was the one people were talking about. That's an eight bay antenna (UHF part). It claims 8-Bay HD and UHF outdoor TV antenna picks up UHF band channels 14 thru 69 with a reception range of 80 miles. CM 4228HD also picks up High VHF signals within a 45 mile radius, streaming channels 7 thru 13. https://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-CM-42...words=cm4228hd But in fact, the 4NEC2 analysis showed that channel 9 suffers a phase inversion and pokes out the back of the antenna. And since the antenna includes the "grid" in the back as a reflector, the end result is the antenna has no gain on channel 9 at all. This puts your channel 10 reception in danger. And that's why the gain graphs are good for spotting potential problems. Now, this one, is an example of a flawed concept. Once the multi-bay antennas get to a certain size, phasing becomes an issue. The manufacturer cannot control the constructive and destructive interference between these well enough, to obtain consistently high gain. So when the antenna says "17.4 dB gain", well, we don't know which exact frequency that happened on, and it might only be 10dB on channel 25 for all we know. The idea with these duals, is you point one structure on one vector, the second structure in a different direction, and "magically" and obediently, the two signals add without screwing up one another :-/ Well, not really. Even if you point them in exactly the same direction, the phasing effects might leave a bit of ripple in the gain. https://www.antennasdirect.com/store...V-Antenna.html ******* Getting back to reality then, I think if you can locate your rabbit ears, and fully extend them and you have the balun, that's a start at receiving 5 and 10. If you think 25 is a good channel, then maybe your small square purchase would be a good idea. And since all three of the most powerful stations are on the same vector, the Terk with the "beam" Yagi concept, might work for that too. But it's hard to tell with that one, whether it actually has gain on VHF. Other than that, 50 feet of 1/4" copper tubing, some CPVC pipe and solvent cement, a drill, a whole month of your time, and you can make an antenna like I did :-) I'm really surprised at one point, I didn't dig a hole in the back yard, and throw all the materials in there :-) Paul |
#94
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O.T. Macrium - now OT aerials etc. (-:
In message , Mark
Twain writes: [] Now the weird part of this is,. I have a cheap clock radio and it picks up allot of stations as well as my car radio. Now how can they pick up the stations but a dedicated quality stereo tuner can't? [] The "dedicated quality stereo tuner" probably has a shielding metal case, and is _designed_ not to receive any signals that don't come in through it's aerial socket. It may even be less sensitive to signals coming in there, the assumption being that anyone serious about quality FM audio will have a good outdoor aerial (with rotator if necessary). (This can also make it less susceptible to overloading, in circumstances where that might be a problem.) Probably less relevant in the case of the FM band, but it used to be the case for AM sets, especially shortwave, where an unscrupulous salesman would sweep {an unselective set with poor rejection} across the band, saying "look at all the stations it can get", when in practice many of them were intermodulation products generated within the set. But it is probably still true to say that number of stations picked up is not directly related to quality of set. (It will be, to some extent anyway, if _all_ signals are weak. But there are two aspects to the "quality" of the set: the sensitivity/selectivity/other parameters of the r. f. part of the set, and the quality of the FM discriminator section and subsequent audio stages.) -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Where [other presenters] tackle the world with a box of watercolours, he takes a spanner. - David Butcher (on Guy Martin), RT 2015/1/31-2/6 |
#95
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O.T. Macrium
At this point, I think it's more effort/cost
than it's worth. The only station worthwhile is channel 5, so I think I'll wait until I find my rabbit ears and balun and use them. I didn't know what the Y, Pb, Pr connections were at first,. but of course I'll be using the HDMI connection. I'll have to send the tuner out to be repaired,. thankfully the Terk Tower wasn't fried. Many thanks for all your help Robert |
#97
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O.T. Macrium (now OT - television reception!)
In message , Brian Gaff
writes: So you still have vhf tv then? Strange, the band 3 stuff here is basically dab and land mobile stuff now. I remember well when tv was The rest of western Europe still had VHF TV, at least up to the end of analogue, I don't know since the change to digital; however, they had more or less the same _type_ of TV signal on both (OK, slight differences in bandwidths for PAL-D vs PAL-G, but I suspect these didn't translate into different circuitry after the IF in the receivers), unlike the UK (and Eire). [] I've never tried tv sticks. Might be worth a go I suppose if any of the software is accessible that is, as I'll need some new way to get tv (For readers of the two Windows 'groups: Brian is a blind user, so needs software that interacts with screenreader software. Much graphical software does not "play well"; the designers of TV stick software tend not to worry that much, presumably as they think it's a visual thing anyway!) soon as my old sd goodmans talking box slowly becomes obsolete. I just find it pretty daft to have to buy a whole tv just to listen to the sound and AD! Brian From recent - but limited - experience with one: the supplied software worked to a limited extent with two of the screenreaders we tried (Narrator [Microsoft] and the four-letter one), but some things didn't speak. (We wanted to try with Window-Eyes, but we've only got that on an XP machine, and though the software loaded, the driver wouldn't.) We found the stick could also be used with VLC: you have to give it the frequency in MHz, but otherwise it works somewhat better with speech. But is somewhat less stable. As for AD the audio description channel, however, that is more of a problem. (For those who don't know what this is: it is an extra audio channel, which for certain programmes - often shown as "(AD)" in the listings mag.s, at least here in the UK - gives an audio description of what's happening, for VH/VI users of the programme.) With the supplied software, it was possible to select the AD channel, but it comes out at the wrong speed - as do certain of the DAB channels. (The particular stick I chose does DAB/DAB+/FM as well as TV [including DVB-T2, which is marketed as HD in the UK, unfortunately].) We surmise that it is because the AD channel (and some DAB channels) are transmitted at lower bit rate than the main audio (and other DAB channels). With VLC, the AD channel (and the affected DAB channels) come out at the _correct_ speed. But this revealed another problem (which I'd known in advance): For the AD channel as it is included on for example DVDs that have it, and possibly in some other countries (anyone in US know?), the AD channel contains the normal audio of the programme, obviously including dialogue (i. e. where someone is speaking); this is "dipped" when audio description is required. However, on UK DTV, the AD channel contains _only_ the audio description, silence otherwise: therefore, for a VH/VI user wanting to use an AD programme, the set has to receive both the normal audio _and_ the AD, and dip the normal audio when there is description - otherwise the VH/VI person will hear "Fred comes into the room and shoots Jim", but won't hear what Jim said to Fred to provoke it! And won't hear a car crash, the clink of a glass, or whatever. Obviously, TVs - and set-top-boxes - sold here that have an AD button on the remote _do_ do this, but in the case of TV sticks, either they don't, or at least the _software_ used with them doesn't. (Unless anyone here can tell me otherwise!) (End of this posting. What follows left for context - Brian top-posts, with a proper .sig delimiter that normally causes the tail to be deleted on the first repost. This helps him.) -- ----- - This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please! "J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote in message ... In message , Paul writes: Mark Twain wrote: I thought I had a balun and rabbit ears In fact, I know I do, but damned if I can find it. In any case, I decided to buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TERK-TVOMA1...idirectional-F lat-Digital-HDTV-Antenna-/302565532675?_trksid=p5731.m3795 what do you think? I found the HDMI input under Video http://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-28LN4500-led-tv [] Thanks, Robert I couldn't find a good reference on the square antenna. It could be hiding this sort of thing inside. A fractal antenna. They don't have to use wire for those, and the antenna could be made from FR4 with copper tracks on it in the desired pattern. The phasing on some of these, is intended to combine the signals and drop the characteristic impedance. Which is how the antennas in the examples here, manage to get a bit closer to 75 ohms. That's what the two "rails" in the center are for. Impedance conversion. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...nna-for-HDTV-D TV-plus-/ When I needed an antenna, I build a Gray-Hoverman. One with extra elements for VHF. And that's because the bureaucrats Is that better than a Yagi? (I once got hold of Yagi's original paper: surprisingly long ago - 1920s I think. [When he wrote it, I mean - I'm not that old!]) here thought it would be cool to give the TV industry zero dollars to subsidize new transmission equipment. And a side effect, is a couple transmitters just used the old analog setup, on something like channel 6. They changed the modulation of the transmitter, for the digital signal, but the "power" part is just the old equipment. It means our channels here, they could have all been placed on UHF (simplifying things and making the square antenna more practical), but instead the band remains split between some stations being on VHF and the rest being on UHF. Then it means a physically larger antenna to get VHF. UHF works with smaller dimensions. If I only needed a UHF antenna, I could have continued using my old one. Whereas here in UK, things went the other way: VHF would have covered the country with far fewer transmitters (and did), but we went to UHF for 625 lines (what some call "PAL", though strictly that's the colour method), so that the existing VHF network could continue to supply the old 405 line system. (Which remained operating until I think 197x!) My Gray Hoverman was designed "for the cottage" rather than an urban setting. To use it in the city, I'd need a rotator because it only has a 15 degree beamwidth. Since I have TV transmitters on two major different vectors, it requires rotating the antenna to either vector to get a signal. Or two aerials. (I don't think I've ever seen a domestic TV aerial here with a rotator; but, we are very fortunate that our networks were mostly designed to co-site the transmitters.) It the antenna is isotropic, and has a wide beam width, then you hardly ever need to fiddle with it. Though few, at least those with wire elements, are truly isotropic. In one of the TV forums, the "experts" there never buy an antenna, without seeing the beam pattern versus frequency. And I was hoping to find a little backgrounder on the square antenna, with some good pictures of results. As that helps predict whether it'll be a practical purchase or not. Amplifiers are a good choice for distribution - if you're driving 100 feet of cheap down-lead, then sticking an amp on the head end, might help reduce the loss. Amplifiers always have a "noise figure", and indiscriminate use of amps leads to a degradation in the noise part of "S/N". Yes, amplified room aerials aren't in general of that much benefit, unless your TV is particularly deaf. In general, I wouldn't buy a "by-the-set" amplifier (except for signal splitting between two or more sets) unless it had a noise figure mentioned on the box, and few such do have. As you say, other end of downlead is a different matter. So a 60dB amp isn't "twice as good" as a 30dB amp, or a loaf of bread baked for twice as long is burned, rather than being "twice as good". So if you see I like that analogy! exaggerated claims for the amp, keep that in mind :-) The TV has AGC (automatic gain control on RF) and probably works from 10uV to 1V or so in amplitude. The TV will turn up its own gain on a weak signal. Indeed. A stated noise figure would be good there too, but again is very rare; even a uV one is, I think. One difference with DTV, is the response to the signal. You can go from a crystal clear picture, to a black screen (LOS) with only a 2dB drop in level. There isn't nearly the graceful degradation as there was with analog NTSC. A missing channel could be close to the (And analog PAL.) right level, or way way down and totally out of reach, and you can't really tell. This (combined with the more or less total decline in technical support from the broadcasters from the general public) has also allowed other near band - actually in-band for most equipment, as they keep reallocating bits of the band to the ravenous mobile (cellular) section - to increase with impunity; with analogue signals, viewers could see that what was stopping them viewing properly was interference, but with digital, they just suffer in silence (and frustration). One amazing thing that happened here, was getting a TV tuner card for the PC and comparing it to my settop box. A world of difference. The STB could only get three channels regularly. The TV tuner card (using the same signal) gets everything known to exist in the city. While propagation characteristics change from month to month, the difference I'm seeing really looks like the TV tuner does something different from a DSP perspective. As I don't think this is just "moar amp". It's not an amplifier effect. Despite what I said above about room amplifiers, I was very agreeably surprised recently when trying out a TV stick that came with an "amplified aerial" (telescopic rod, but needed a separate USB socket to power it); it got most of the channels available in the area, where I'd expected to need to connect the roof aerial. (I _was_ trying upstairs.) It even got usable signals - some breakup - from many of the channels from an another transmitter site. (I was at NE6 5AD - main signals from Pontop Pike, others possibly from one of its fill-ins [Fenham?].) I _didn't_ try it without the aerial powered, to see if just the stick was more sensitive than they've been in the past (it might not have worked at all unpowered, anyway). It's fun to play with. Too bad I'm not all that interested in TV :-) (-: Paul John -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf The squeamish will squeam a lot. (Barry Norman on the film "300", in Radio Times 30 March-5 April 2013.) -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf As we journey through life, discarding baggage along the way, we should keep an iron grip, to the very end, on the capacity for silliness. It preserves the soul from desiccation. - Humphrey Lyttelton quoted by Barry Cryer in Radio Times 10-16 November 2012 |
#98
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O.T. Macrium (now OT - television reception!)
I had never thought of this issue before. It must
be very difficult and frustrating to resolve. Robert |
#99
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O.T. Macrium
I know this site isn't for TV's, stereo's etc. and
this is way off topic but I need some advice and I respect your opinion. Here's what happened,.. the Sony DVD player finally arrived and I hooked it up to the LG TV via HDMI and L/R phono hookups and nothing. I cannot get the TV to switch over to the DVD player or show any menu's. TV: https://www.frys.com/product/9260599 http://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-28LN4500-led-tv DVD: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-dv...?skuId=4790739 DVD user guide: http://tv.manualsonline.com/manuals/...dvpsr510h.html So what's going on? I have to use one remote to turn on the LG TV and the Sony remote for the DVD player but I can't get anything on the TV, just snow. Could there be a incapability between the player and the TV and/or remotes? Thanks, Robert |
#100
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O.T. Macrium
p.s. I also tried it using the video plugin
with the same result. Robert |
#101
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O.T. Macrium
I don't see a selection for HDMI anywhere on
the menu's on the TV only in the manual under video but there's no way to access it. Just about everything else concerns the picture or sound. I thought once I connected the DVD player to the TV it would be like a USB connection on a computer because both are HDMI certified and the TV would 'recognize' the DVD player but it didn't. The DVD player remote should be able to switch between TV/DVD player as the TV remote doesn't have this function. In fact, I can find very little useful on the TV remote but again this doesn't work. I put in a DVD but I can't even be sure its playing its so quiet and there's no picture. All I see is a green light when I power it on and the tray opens and closes and it turns on and off but it should be showing me a picture but doesn't and I can't figure this out. This should be simple but it's not. What am I doing wrong? or do I have a problem of some sort? Should I call or take it back to the store and set it up and let them see for themselves and maybe they can work it out? Maybe they've had this problem before and can tell me what's going on over the phone? My sister also has a LG TV and she told me recently it stopped working and wanted her to enter some code which she did not know. So maybe this is that kind of thing? Whatever it is,. it isn't working,.. and I'm getting frustrated. Thoughts/suggestions? Robert to enter |
#102
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O.T. Macrium
Mark Twain wrote:
I know this site isn't for TV's, stereo's etc. and this is way off topic but I need some advice and I respect your opinion. Here's what happened,.. the Sony DVD player finally arrived and I hooked it up to the LG TV via HDMI and L/R phono hookups and nothing. I cannot get the TV to switch over to the DVD player or show any menu's. TV: https://www.frys.com/product/9260599 http://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-28LN4500-led-tv DVD: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-dv...?skuId=4790739 DVD user guide: http://tv.manualsonline.com/manuals/...dvpsr510h.html So what's going on? I have to use one remote to turn on the LG TV and the Sony remote for the DVD player but I can't get anything on the TV, just snow. Could there be a incapability between the player and the TV and/or remotes? Thanks, Robert See page 25 which has a picture of the TV remote. The middle set of buttons appear to control the OSD (on screen display). There is a Settings button to make the OSD appear on the screen. The Back button implies hierarchical menus, so if you get "trapped" in a lower level menu, you use the Back button to ascend to the main level again. The arrows allow selecting options. https://www.lg.com/us/lgecs.download...500-UA.AUS.pdf Page 27 shows an "Input" tile, which may display input choices. The manual does not attempt to show all menus. ******* There is a second manual on this page as well. 972KB. http://www.lg.com/us/support-product...LN4500#manuals This one is more text based. It has more pages but the content has less pictures. https://www.lg.com/us/lgecs.download...29__ENGA .pdf I would expect the TV menu system to be self-explaining (once you get the language selection set properly). Some TVs will try to have the manual available on the screen as well. ******* It should also be possible to program the TV set for "Auto On" in a sense. The HDMI has some kind of control channel, and when you "hit the power button" on the DVD player, it can send a message to the sleeping TV set to turn on. Thus, you can have simplified one-remote control for a pure DVD environment. The DVD remote controls the DVD behavior, but the power button on the DVD remote then in effect controls both devices, and powers them on. I wouldn't get too settled in on customization until you've completed "input testing". Like testing out the TV tuner, to see how marginal the signal conditions are for TV reception. Should be no harder than flying a 747. Paul |
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O.T. Macrium
Your links came back as 'Application
not found' and I tried it several times. Is this because I cleared the cache maybe? Now do I have a problem on the 8500? I hope not. This is getting like the flu.... Hmmmmm,.. I'm wondering if I have some sort of defective TV because I don't see anything like what your describing. I called Best Buys and talked to one of their people about it and he said the same kind of things. He tried to check a LG 28 inch screen there but couldn't get it to go either. I asked if I could bring mine in and hook it up there and check it and he said sure. So tomorrow that's what I'm going to do. So we'll see, Thanks, Robert |
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O.T. Macrium
Mark Twain wrote:
Your links came back as 'Application not found' and I tried it several times. Is this because I cleared the cache maybe? Now do I have a problem on the 8500? I hope not. This is getting like the flu.... Hmmmmm,.. I'm wondering if I have some sort of defective TV because I don't see anything like what your describing. I called Best Buys and talked to one of their people about it and he said the same kind of things. He tried to check a LG 28 inch screen there but couldn't get it to go either. I asked if I could bring mine in and hook it up there and check it and he said sure. So tomorrow that's what I'm going to do. So we'll see, Thanks, Robert On your TV remote on the upper right just below the TV button is the input button. It has a pic of a plug. That is supposed to change the input. Also, you should not need to hook up separate audio cables with hdmi since hdmi has it built in. |
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O.T. Macrium
Ta da!
I re-read your instructions ,.. and went hunting for the HDMI again and this time I found it under channels! So it's now working great! Although I now have to find the control to turn off the damn auto-audio,. like when you turn the volume up or down it tells you but hey it's working! Many thanks, Robert |
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