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#76
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Here's what the manual says:
Building Wiring Fault Indicator - This indicator lights when there is either no ground circuit, a reversed polarity in the building wiring, or the neutral circuit is overloaded. If it lights, consult a qualified electrician to examine the building wiring. Note: When the Surge Arrest is fully loaded, this indicator may flicker. This is normal and may not be indicative of a fault. Mine doesn't flicker. If I get a connector and test it and it comes up bad then I need a electrician and if it comes up good then it's a bad APC, correct? It seems odd to have both APC's go bad. Also I don't know how long it's been like that because I just noticed it and I haven;t had any problems. If there's no ground then how would an electrician correct the problem? Again this sounds pricey. The 780 does have a floppy I thought about this and I really don't need to change any of the private cables; only the ones attached to the PSU, correct? Robert |
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#77
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Just bought a tester
Robert |
#78
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
Here's what the manual says: Building Wiring Fault Indicator - This indicator lights when there is either no ground circuit, a reversed polarity in the building wiring, or the neutral circuit is overloaded. If it lights, consult a qualified electrician to examine the building wiring. Note: When the Surge Arrest is fully loaded, this indicator may flicker. This is normal and may not be indicative of a fault. Mine doesn't flicker. If I get a connector and test it and it comes up bad then I need a electrician and if it comes up good then it's a bad APC, correct? It seems odd to have both APC's go bad. Also I don't know how long it's been like that because I just noticed it and I haven;t had any problems. If there's no ground then how would an electrician correct the problem? Again this sounds pricey. The 780 does have a floppy I thought about this and I really don't need to change any of the private cables; only the ones attached to the PSU, correct? Robert Just the power related ones. ******* For the floppy, there is a data connector (that doesn't need removal) and a four pin power connector. The power connector has an inverted-U portion that slides over a similar shape on the drive. The PSU end, the connector has a small "dimple" which fits into a slot just below the male pins on the floppy drive end. The dimple prevents the cable from being pulled backwards. If you lift up on the wires for the PSU connector end, this helps the dimple "climb out of the slot" and then the connector should pull backwards. Now, to impede the ease of lifting the connector end and tilting it for removal, some floppy drives have a metal bar which sits above the connector area. Of course, my spare floppy drive, doesn't have that metal thing, so it's easy to work the connector off the end of my spare drive. It's just another one of those connectors that's going to hurt your fingers. Even if you know the operating principle (lift up on end, then pull), it doesn't always want to cooperate. ******* Once you get your outlet tester, you will have a "second opinion" on what is defective about your wiring. I doubt it's a missing safety ground, because I would be hearing comments about "I got a shock when I touched the 8500 case". With your outlet tester, you can record which lights on it are on, and look up on the chart for the defect. I liked it better when these were more available in hardware stores. I seem to remember at a couple places, I was getting strange looks when I described it. The electrical guy in the electrical aisle should have seen one of these. I got mine at a smaller hardware store. That's the hardware store that has more "novelty items", like 8" and 12" nails you can actually buy. For about a buck a pop. Paul |
#79
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
At this point, what do you think is going
on? We'll know for sure once I get the testor (The same kind you showed me in your link but on ebay for $6.45 free shipping). I think as far as fitting the PSU and cables I'm OK although I still don't see where the two (4) sockets would plug into? As for all those separate wires I showed you the molex etc. I would have to just try and find the same kind of wire already attached but I really don't know what they are etc aside from your labeling. It's all Dutch to me and several times I have to look up stuff like the the BTX to understand what your talking about. Just trying to keep up and understand it all. Robert |
#80
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Obviously, only change power supplies on *one* computer at a time, so the second one can be used for Googling if the need arises. I had thought about this and so copy/pasted all my computer files/images to the 780 via flash key so that I'll have access to them on there as well. The flash key also contains most of My Document bookmarks should I need to access any of them and there's always the Mrimgs. Robert |
#81
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I got to thinking,. I'm using a 3prong adapter
for a 2 prong plug for the APC and I had never screwed in the ground tab to the face plate. So I thought maybe that was the problem but wasn't. Then thought to try the other outlet below which meant twisting the cabling 180 but as soon as I plugged it in the red light went out. I don't even have the ground tab screwed down. So do you think when I got hit with the 220V it blew the other socket? The red light(Building Wiring Fault Indicator) is out and I have the green light (Protection Working Indicator) in front. What do you think? Robert |
#82
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
At this point, what do you think is going on? We'll know for sure once I get the testor (The same kind you showed me in your link but on ebay for $6.45 free shipping). I think as far as fitting the PSU and cables I'm OK although I still don't see where the two (4) sockets would plug into? As for all those separate wires I showed you the molex etc. I would have to just try and find the same kind of wire already attached but I really don't know what they are etc aside from your labeling. It's all Dutch to me and several times I have to look up stuff like the the BTX to understand what your talking about. Just trying to keep up and understand it all. Robert SSR-550FM ATX12V 4/8 TTTTTT TTTTTT End view of connector pair ___ ___ ___ ___ showing shapes which help | | | | | | | | control mating only one way. | | | | | | | | \_/ --- \_/ \_/ You will be using the *left* connector in pic. ___ ___ ___ ___ The right connector is used if | | | | | | | | the motherboard had a 2x4 and room | | | | | | | | for all eight pins. --- \_/ \_/ \_/ TTTTTT is the tab which latches to || a feature on the side of the connector \||/ on the motherboard and provides a \/ visual cue on how to do it. ___ ___ | | | | Normal motherboards have just 2x2 [144 watt] | | | | and have a tab for the latch on the \_/ --- PSU end to attach to. The right-hand ___ ___ one above would not insert unless you | | | | had an enthusiast 2x4 on the motherboard | | | | with it's (approximate) 288W rating --- \_/ To see which is which (I used my spare Seasonic with the black ribbon wiring), you'll need to use a strong light to detect the left one above, and it should slip into place on the motherboard without a problem. If you were to grab the right one by mistake, two of the nylon shrouds won't insert. ******* Using your existing photos, you should see the 2x2 existing wiring, leading to the area with the VCore coils and MOSFETs. The connector has four pins, with two yellow wires and two black wires. (I see on one of the machines the wires look almost brown-ish. Which would be a violation of the ATX spec which calls out the wire colors in a table. Yellow is the color for +12V normally.) https://i.postimg.cc/DwRJY6Pz/2x2-co...-locations.jpg The second half of the 4/8 is going to be a nuisance, but since the contacts are slightly recessed, I don't expect a problem with accidental contact with adjacent metal structures. When Dell made the motherboards, they weren't really expecting the 2x4 option to exist, which is why clearances there may be limited. ******* When the AC tester arrives, maybe you'll get a little more information. Not all the outlets in a house need make the same response - sometimes it's just one outlet pair which is mis-wired slightly. Paul |
#83
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
I got to thinking,. I'm using a 3prong adapter for a 2 prong plug for the APC and I had never screwed in the ground tab to the face plate. So I thought maybe that was the problem but wasn't. Then thought to try the other outlet below which meant twisting the cabling 180 but as soon as I plugged it in the red light went out. I don't even have the ground tab screwed down. So do you think when I got hit with the 220V it blew the other socket? The red light(Building Wiring Fault Indicator) is out and I have the green light (Protection Working Indicator) in front. What do you think? Robert It could be that just one outlet has a problem. That's actually what the outlet tester is for. Not all the outlets in the house have to give the same response. Usually you reach for the outlet tester, when some symptom "tells you to have a look". In your case, that red indicator on the Surge Protector is your hint to try the outlet tester. It's quite possible many of the outlets in the house will test good, and only one is bad. All it takes is a loose screw inside the receptacle to give a bad wiring indicator on the outlet tester. I've changed a few receptacles in the house here, and there's always the possibility of something working loose. My bathroom light switch worked itself loose for example. Paul |
#84
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Your identifying the one 4x8 cabling
has helped allot but as you say the second half is going to be difficult. Since it's a power cable, wouldn't it have to go to either the HD or the optical floppy drive? btw, I just noticed that the 8500 has two HD's but the blue cable only goes to the top, yet I only see C: so are they coupled as one HD? http://i63.tinypic.com/72t069.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/ffddok.jpg Robert |
#85
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I've had the same problem, but I don't feel
comfortable with unscrewing outlets that don't work. Robert |
#86
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
Your identifying the one 4x8 cabling has helped allot but as you say the second half is going to be difficult. Since it's a power cable, wouldn't it have to go to either the HD or the optical floppy drive? btw, I just noticed that the 8500 has two HD's but the blue cable only goes to the top, yet I only see C: so are they coupled as one HD? http://i63.tinypic.com/72t069.jpg The data cable isn't hooked up on that second (buried) drive. It looks like it may have power, but no data. You'll need a seven pin SATA data to connect the mystery drive to the motherboard. Your motherboard likely has four SATA ports. 1) Current Windows system (blue) 2) DVD optical drive up top (orange) 3) unused 4) unused You'll have to be careful to not boot from that mystery hard drive, until you know what it is. Once the extra data cable has been put in place, you can enter the BIOS and make sure the (blue) cabled drive is still the first in the boot order. http://i65.tinypic.com/ffddok.jpg In an emergency, you can pinch a SATA cable from another machine, as long as you can put it back properly later :-) If would depend on whether any "borrowed" cables are tie-wrapped to stuff or jammed into cable guides, as to how easy it will be to borrow a cable. First generation SATA cables have no "tough" retention features. They're a friction fit. Second generation cables have a finger release and a metal "jaw" to enhance retention. If you buy a cable and it has the metal bits on it, don't panic - if there is nothing for the jaw to grab, it won't hurt anything. For example, a SATA cable with a jaw, cannot find anything to grip on a WDC brand hard drive, as the WDC brand hard drive had extra spacing added to fit a WDC branded special cable. The SATA cable still "works" and there is no need to panic just because the jaw doesn't engage and do anything useful in that case. Just *don't* pull on a SATA cable too hard, without understanding whether anything gets in the way of removal. A poster in one of the hardware groups, managed to rip a SATA right off the motherboard. I have an Asrock branded motherboard, I can easily see how this happened, as only *solder* holds the connector in place, via the data leads. Some other SATA connectors have a bit more hold-down features to prevent the connector from being ripped right off the motherboard. If you see that a SATA motherboard connector appears "flimsy" and "is just sitting there with no support", take extra care during removal. With a jawed cable, you'd make doubly sure the jaw is open before pulling. And pull by the connector, not the cable body. I wouldn't even have thought of this being possible, until I had a closer look at that one motherboard, and realized what a disaster waiting to happen it was. HTH, Paul |
#87
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
I've had the same problem, but I don't feel comfortable with unscrewing outlets that don't work. Robert If you get too adventurous, you'll eventually get a shock. Ask me some time how I figured this out :-) Zap... Paul |
#88
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I don't remember that I added a second
drive to the 8500 and as you say it has no data connection so what's it doing there? Maybe this was a cloned HD that I left in? I seem to remember we took the orange cable from the optical drive and used it for the second HD but I can't remember what we did or why? Do I have a SATA plug in the PSU wiring? Robert |
#89
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
On Tuesday, December 18, 2018 at 5:21:24 PM UTC-8, Paul wrote:
Mark Twain wrote: I've had the same problem, but I don't feel comfortable with unscrewing outlets that don't work. Robert If you get too adventurous, you'll eventually get a shock. Ask me some time how I figured this out :-) Zap... Paul That's why I'm not too adventurous,. just unscrewing the face plate screw I almost slipped the screwdriver into one of the sockets! Robert |
#90
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
I don't remember that I added a second drive to the 8500 and as you say it has no data connection so what's it doing there? Maybe this was a cloned HD that I left in? I seem to remember we took the orange cable from the optical drive and used it for the second HD but I can't remember what we did or why? Do I have a SATA plug in the PSU wiring? Robert You have a cable with four SATA power plugs. You have a cable with two SATA power plugs. Some of your storage is located in two different geographical areas inside the PC, and that's when the two cables will come in handy. Generally, a single cable cannot "span" the whole PC. The Molex cable might see service for the floppy adapter cable, on the machine that has a floppy drive. You can also convert Molex to SATA with a Molex to dual SATA Y cable, purchasable for around $5 or so. ******* That covers drive power connectors. The data cable runs from the motherboard surface to the hard drive, and you'll need to borrow one from somewhere, to carry out a quick test of that drive. When you're not using a hard drive, it's best to disconnect both the power and data cables. Paul |
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