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Power Cable
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Thank you. |
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#2
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Power Cable
In article , Chris Jenkins
wrote: Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. the specs say 9v/0.6a: https://static.tp-link.com/res/down/doc/TL-WR841N_V10_Datasheet.pdf here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TP-Li...2A1-Wireless/d p/B01LWKRVL0 |
#3
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Power Cable
In article , Wolf K
wrote: Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. I've often found cables and power adapters etc at 2nd hand shops. but not necessarily the correct voltage/amperage. |
#4
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Power Cable
nospam wrote in
: In article , Chris Jenkins wrote: Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/...841N.html#over view The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. the specs say 9v/0.6a: https://static.tp-link.com/res/down/doc/TL-WR841N_V10_Datasheet.pdf here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TP-Li...-2A1-Wireless/ d p/B01LWKRVL0 All of the ones on that page are US 120v plugs. If Amazon UK does not handle a comparable power supply you will probably have to obtain some sort of adapter to make the plugs match. If you don't order that one, you will want to check your current power supply to see if the plug is tip positive or tip negative. It seems that on most of the 9v power supplies I checked the plug is 5.5mmx2.1mm. If you are going to wander the brick and mortar stores you will probably want to take the old one with you so you can check to make sure the plug matches. How is the current cable damaged? If it got kinked or nicked, you can always just cut the cable before that spot and add a new plug. The replacement plug will be either 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 5.5mm x 2.5mm. You might want to take a micrometer to the socket to see if it is 2.1 or 2.5, and watch the polarity when wiring in the new plug. Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can preserve the right polarity, stagger the splices to keep the connection from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the splice. |
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Power Cable
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#7
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Power Cable
On 3/15/19 8:16 PM, lonelydad wrote:
[snip] All of the ones on that page are US 120v plugs. If Amazon UK does not handle a comparable power supply you will probably have to obtain some sort of adapter to make the plugs match. A lot of the newer ones accept 100V-240V. You just need a plug adapter rather than a voltage converter. [snip] Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can preserve the right polarity, Most of them (at least the 2-wire flat ones) are already marked, although that can be hard to see. The insulation around one wire is rougher than around the other. stagger the splices to keep the connection from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the splice. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/ "The feet of progress have always been shod by doubt." [Lemuel K. Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And Other Essays_] |
#8
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Power Cable
On 3/15/19 8:16 PM, lonelydad wrote:
[snip] Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can preserve the right polarity, stagger the splices to keep the connection from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the splice. One possible alternative to marking is to fix one wire at a time. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/ "The feet of progress have always been shod by doubt." [Lemuel K. Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And Other Essays_] |
#9
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Power Cable
Chris Jenkins wrote:
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Thank you. Ebay. 9v, 0.6 amp or more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-AC-DC-Ad...AOSwTc5cCeC k |
#10
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Power Cable
On 15/03/2019 23:30, Chris Jenkins wrote:
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Thank you. Amazon-UK has the same router with power cable included!!!!!!!!! It is priced at £15. are you in the EU? You should avoid buying from American sites as their power plugs are different. Make sure you have the correct plugs for the EU or UK. -- With over 950 million devices now running Windows 10, customer satisfaction is higher than any previous version of windows. |
#11
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Power Cable
On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 22:50:16 -0500, Paul in Houston TX
wrote: Chris Jenkins wrote: Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Thank you. Ebay. 9v, 0.6 amp or more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-AC-DC-Ad...AOSwTc5cCeC k Amazon UK @ 7.49. UK plug https://www.amazon.co.uk/MyVolts-ada.../dp/B00QB5Z6YS -- Herbie. |
#12
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Power Cable
"Chris Jenkins" wrote in message
... Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Look on the existing power adaptor, sometimes call a wall wart, for the voltage, amps & polarity. It will be either on a label or moulded into the plastic. Then measure the connector. Metric drill bits can be used as a guide to both the external & internal sizes. Without digital or dial calipers it's hard to differentiate between 2.1 & 2.5 mm for example. I've not seen any connectors in Imperial sizes This will give you the specs to look for. -- Regards wasbit |
#13
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Power Cable
wasbit wrote:
"Chris Jenkins" wrote in message ... Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or even a good substitute for it. How do I find one? https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have tried using a cable from other router. Look on the existing power adaptor, sometimes call a wall wart, for the voltage, amps & polarity. It will be either on a label or moulded into the plastic. Then measure the connector. Metric drill bits can be used as a guide to both the external & internal sizes. Without digital or dial calipers it's hard to differentiate between 2.1 & 2.5 mm for example. I've not seen any connectors in Imperial sizes This will give you the specs to look for. The OP hasn't made clear whether it's the barrel end which is ruined, or it's the wire. The wire can be repaired. It helps to have wire strippers, but those take practice (only the mechanical ones with the two jaw sets, automate the whole stripping process and take the guesswork out of it). The cheapest strippers with the yellow handles, require practice so you won't knick the wire strands. In a pinch, you can use a razor blade, but that is very fiddly. This is my calculator adapter, repaired 40 years ago. The wires are soldered so they won't come apart. The "tubes" over the wire are shrinkwrap (Polyolefin tubing), which is selected to be 2x the diameter of the wire, so it can be slid over. Shrinkwrap is available as transparent or as colored tubing. The heat stream above the soldering iron is used to heat the tubing until it shrinks to half its size (try not to touch the soldering iron to the tubing). Unlike electrical tape, this stuff doesn't come off during a warm summer day. It can be cut off with precision stainless steel scissors (longitudinally) if you need to remove the tubing later. https://i.postimg.cc/1tYd1GXg/cats-l...bbery-wire.jpg As another poster suggested, if I was doing this today, I would "offset" the two joins, so they aren't beside one another. This helps "smooth out" the stiffest part of the repair. I've also slid an additional larger diameter shrink wrap over the whole thing, to keep the two conductors from getting snagged on something. But that makes the wire stiffer still, and encourages bending breaks near either end. I gave up on electrical tape for this eons ago. Electrical tape sucks. You don't have to solder the stranded wire. You could twist it together tightly. But the polyolefin tubing is ideal for doing a nice job, and for keeping your twisted wire from coming apart. So the polyolefin tubing is still an essential part of the job. There are cheesy sellers all over the place selling it for too much. About $3 should buy around a 3 foot piece of a single diameter. And that still leaves plenty of profit for the seller. I could find some for $17, which is outrageous. You want to see this in the store, to ensure the cut pieces these idiots provide, are not too short. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gar...lam/1000843469 One of the reasons I have so many diameters of polyolefin tubing, is from mis-estimating the diameter required for a given job. Take some care, before concluding you've got the right one, to get a good fit when shrunk. You don't have to shrink them, but they slide around otherwise, and won't cover the copper and prevent a short circuit from happening. And shrinking them with a match or a lighter is just asking for trouble. Remember that the cat-chewy wire insulation on the original wire, *melts* at less than the polyolefin. Applying a match will make one big gooey mess. If you're cutting away a cat-chewed section anyway, you can practice your shrinking attempts on that piece of wire, to get some idea how much heat it will take. Even if the tubing only shrinks 10% or 15%, that's better than nothing. I love cheating the landfill, and I've repaired more than one adapter this way. You get better with practice. I remember ruining my first soldering gun while repairing stuff (p.s. *don't* buy a soldering gun, only buy a soldering iron, as it'll last you a long time - the guns are "duty-cycle limited" and exceeding the ON-time, ruins them). Paul |
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