Win7 support:

On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 10:36:11 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:


I'm now back with the main HD and there isn't a
problem with the bookmarks not showing. That was
very strange.

Anyway,.. what are my steps now? and can I fix the
local this time around or am I stuck with the
parameters I already gave?

Thanks,
Robert

Defining an account, is on a per-install basis.

If you don't use the contents of the Spare drive
for anything, just removing the OS partition on it
is enough to not have an issue with how the
home directory was named.

The Microsoft Server doesn't pass this information
along with every install. The user gets to decide
whether the setup uses a local account during
the install (during the Out-Of-The-Box stage).

Keep the details of your MSA though, as there
might be a usage for it eventually.

Paul

I don't understand MSA? Do you mean my email
and password I used as part of the Win10 install?
What should I have used? I tried my Yahoo account
but it didn't accept that.

So how do I proceed now?

Thanks,
Robert

Robert in CA wrote:


I don't understand MSA? Do you mean my email
and password I used as part of the Win10 install?
What should I have used? I tried my Yahoo account
but it didn't accept that.

So how do I proceed now?

Thanks,
Robert

By using your blank Spare drive, there are no side
effects from any choices you made during your first
install attempt.

You don't have to worry about that.

You could do a Win10-over-Win7 setup on the
Spare drive if you want, just to see your programs
are preserved. To ensure success, I might remove
Avast before the attempt. There are no guarantees
when an AV is present, that an OS install will work.

*******

You were tricked into applying for a Microsoft Account (MSA).

You present your email address, make a custom password
for the machine, and that is your Microsoft Account (MSA).

They should send you a confirmation via that email address.

Keep the details of what you typed in, for later.
Write it on your account/password list.

Usually, applying for accounts like that, there is
2FA (two factor authentication) and the like, if
a password needs to be reset. They might want a mobile
phone to be able to send SMS Text to.

The MSA can be used for Windows 10 App Store purchases.

The MSA can be used for any function which "synchronizes"
settings between computers. If I use an MSA on the 8500
and the same MSA on the 780, I might be able to see the
same files on OneDrive.

Remember how you were tricked into giving Firefox an
email address when setting up synchronization ?

The Microsoft scheme is similar.

There's no real issue with setting up an MSA.

If you were to discontinue the email account for
some reason, that might break password recovery (where
they send a query to you via email). It's just
another pesky detail to worry about.

I have a ton of passwords I keep in my password envelope.
It has scraps of paper from forums I've joined. I only
joined the forum so I could download images the site
would not normally offer. (Get schematics from badcaps.net
and so on.)

Anything Internet oriented, should use a "good password".
My MSA has a long password, with upper and lower case,
punctuation, numbers and so on. But this also makes it
a nuisance to log in with such a password.

For the installation of the OS, I recommend starting
with a local account and password. This gives better
control of the Home directory name. Later, if you
carry out operations like saving files on OneDrive,
synchronizing calendar/mail between machines,
or other "modern user" stuff, you can use your MSA
for that.

The danger with any "Internet thing", is giving away
too much info. For example, there are institutions here
that use the names of my relatives as a "security check",
and if that information is ever stolen, then there
could be "identity theft", because a third party
could answer too many personal questions about you
and carry out a transaction you would not want them
to be able to carry out.

That's why I don't particularly want to associate
too much information about me, with my computer.

Paul

On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:


I don't understand MSA? Do you mean my email
and password I used as part of the Win10 install?
What should I have used? I tried my Yahoo account
but it didn't accept that.

So how do I proceed now?

Thanks,
Robert

By using your blank Spare drive, there are no side
effects from any choices you made during your first
install attempt.

You don't have to worry about that.

You could do a Win10-over-Win7 setup on the
Spare drive if you want, just to see your programs
are preserved. To ensure success, I might remove
Avast before the attempt. There are no guarantees
when an AV is present, that an OS install will work.

*******

You were tricked into applying for a Microsoft Account (MSA).

You present your email address, make a custom password
for the machine, and that is your Microsoft Account (MSA).

They should send you a confirmation via that email address.

Keep the details of what you typed in, for later.
Write it on your account/password list.

Usually, applying for accounts like that, there is
2FA (two factor authentication) and the like, if
a password needs to be reset. They might want a mobile
phone to be able to send SMS Text to.

The MSA can be used for Windows 10 App Store purchases.

The MSA can be used for any function which "synchronizes"
settings between computers. If I use an MSA on the 8500
and the same MSA on the 780, I might be able to see the
same files on OneDrive.

Remember how you were tricked into giving Firefox an
email address when setting up synchronization ?

The Microsoft scheme is similar.

There's no real issue with setting up an MSA.

If you were to discontinue the email account for
some reason, that might break password recovery (where
they send a query to you via email). It's just
another pesky detail to worry about.

I have a ton of passwords I keep in my password envelope.
It has scraps of paper from forums I've joined. I only
joined the forum so I could download images the site
would not normally offer. (Get schematics from badcaps.net
and so on.)

Anything Internet oriented, should use a "good password".
My MSA has a long password, with upper and lower case,
punctuation, numbers and so on. But this also makes it
a nuisance to log in with such a password.

For the installation of the OS, I recommend starting
with a local account and password. This gives better
control of the Home directory name. Later, if you
carry out operations like saving files on OneDrive,
synchronizing calendar/mail between machines,
or other "modern user" stuff, you can use your MSA
for that.

The danger with any "Internet thing", is giving away
too much info. For example, there are institutions here
that use the names of my relatives as a "security check",
and if that information is ever stolen, then there
could be "identity theft", because a third party
could answer too many personal questions about you
and carry out a transaction you would not want them
to be able to carry out.

That's why I don't particularly want to associate
too much information about me, with my computer.

Paul



So, for the MSA I have to create a real email address
for this to work then and not use my normal email
address is that correct?

I still don't understand what you mean by local
account?

I have tried to practice exactly what you describe and
I try to keep a very low profile. I don't click on
anything unless I know what it is or who its from.

The only reason I'm doing this is to get the Windows 10
key while I still can. Once I verify that I have Win 10
on the HD then what? Just leave it there and thats my
formatted Win10 HD?

Thanks,
Robert

On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 6:40:47 PM UTC-7, Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:


I don't understand MSA? Do you mean my email
and password I used as part of the Win10 install?
What should I have used? I tried my Yahoo account
but it didn't accept that.

So how do I proceed now?

Thanks,
Robert

By using your blank Spare drive, there are no side
effects from any choices you made during your first
install attempt.

You don't have to worry about that.

You could do a Win10-over-Win7 setup on the
Spare drive if you want, just to see your programs
are preserved. To ensure success, I might remove
Avast before the attempt. There are no guarantees
when an AV is present, that an OS install will work.

*******

You were tricked into applying for a Microsoft Account (MSA).

You present your email address, make a custom password
for the machine, and that is your Microsoft Account (MSA).

They should send you a confirmation via that email address.

Keep the details of what you typed in, for later.
Write it on your account/password list.

Usually, applying for accounts like that, there is
2FA (two factor authentication) and the like, if
a password needs to be reset. They might want a mobile
phone to be able to send SMS Text to.

The MSA can be used for Windows 10 App Store purchases.

The MSA can be used for any function which "synchronizes"
settings between computers. If I use an MSA on the 8500
and the same MSA on the 780, I might be able to see the
same files on OneDrive.

Remember how you were tricked into giving Firefox an
email address when setting up synchronization ?

The Microsoft scheme is similar.

There's no real issue with setting up an MSA.

If you were to discontinue the email account for
some reason, that might break password recovery (where
they send a query to you via email). It's just
another pesky detail to worry about.

I have a ton of passwords I keep in my password envelope.
It has scraps of paper from forums I've joined. I only
joined the forum so I could download images the site
would not normally offer. (Get schematics from badcaps.net
and so on.)

Anything Internet oriented, should use a "good password".
My MSA has a long password, with upper and lower case,
punctuation, numbers and so on. But this also makes it
a nuisance to log in with such a password.

For the installation of the OS, I recommend starting
with a local account and password. This gives better
control of the Home directory name. Later, if you
carry out operations like saving files on OneDrive,
synchronizing calendar/mail between machines,
or other "modern user" stuff, you can use your MSA
for that.

The danger with any "Internet thing", is giving away
too much info. For example, there are institutions here
that use the names of my relatives as a "security check",
and if that information is ever stolen, then there
could be "identity theft", because a third party
could answer too many personal questions about you
and carry out a transaction you would not want them
to be able to carry out.

That's why I don't particularly want to associate
too much information about me, with my computer.

Paul



So, for the MSA I have to create a real email address
for this to work then and not use my normal email
address is that correct?

I still don't understand what you mean by local
account?

I have tried to practice exactly what you describe and
I try to keep a very low profile. I don't click on
anything unless I know what it is or who its from.

The only reason I'm doing this is to get the Windows 10
key while I still can. Once I verify that I have Win 10
on the HD then what? Just leave it there and thats my
formatted Win10 HD?

Thanks,
Robert

I just re-read your instructions and to do Win10 over Win 7
I have to use Explorer and open the Media Creation Tool
and find the EXE and click that instead. Is this correct?

Robert

Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

I don't understand MSA? Do you mean my email
and password I used as part of the Win10 install?
What should I have used? I tried my Yahoo account
but it didn't accept that.

So how do I proceed now?

Thanks,
Robert
By using your blank Spare drive, there are no side
effects from any choices you made during your first
install attempt.

You don't have to worry about that.

You could do a Win10-over-Win7 setup on the
Spare drive if you want, just to see your programs
are preserved. To ensure success, I might remove
Avast before the attempt. There are no guarantees
when an AV is present, that an OS install will work.

*******

You were tricked into applying for a Microsoft Account (MSA).

You present your email address, make a custom password
for the machine, and that is your Microsoft Account (MSA).

They should send you a confirmation via that email address.

Keep the details of what you typed in, for later.
Write it on your account/password list.

Usually, applying for accounts like that, there is
2FA (two factor authentication) and the like, if
a password needs to be reset. They might want a mobile
phone to be able to send SMS Text to.

The MSA can be used for Windows 10 App Store purchases.

The MSA can be used for any function which "synchronizes"
settings between computers. If I use an MSA on the 8500
and the same MSA on the 780, I might be able to see the
same files on OneDrive.

Remember how you were tricked into giving Firefox an
email address when setting up synchronization ?

The Microsoft scheme is similar.

There's no real issue with setting up an MSA.

If you were to discontinue the email account for
some reason, that might break password recovery (where
they send a query to you via email). It's just
another pesky detail to worry about.

I have a ton of passwords I keep in my password envelope.
It has scraps of paper from forums I've joined. I only
joined the forum so I could download images the site
would not normally offer. (Get schematics from badcaps.net
and so on.)

Anything Internet oriented, should use a "good password".
My MSA has a long password, with upper and lower case,
punctuation, numbers and so on. But this also makes it
a nuisance to log in with such a password.

For the installation of the OS, I recommend starting
with a local account and password. This gives better
control of the Home directory name. Later, if you
carry out operations like saving files on OneDrive,
synchronizing calendar/mail between machines,
or other "modern user" stuff, you can use your MSA
for that.

The danger with any "Internet thing", is giving away
too much info. For example, there are institutions here
that use the names of my relatives as a "security check",
and if that information is ever stolen, then there
could be "identity theft", because a third party
could answer too many personal questions about you
and carry out a transaction you would not want them
to be able to carry out.

That's why I don't particularly want to associate
too much information about me, with my computer.

Paul



So, for the MSA I have to create a real email address
for this to work then and not use my normal email
address is that correct?

I still don't understand what you mean by local
account?

I have tried to practice exactly what you describe and
I try to keep a very low profile. I don't click on
anything unless I know what it is or who its from.

The only reason I'm doing this is to get the Windows 10
key while I still can. Once I verify that I have Win 10
on the HD then what? Just leave it there and thats my
formatted Win10 HD?

Thanks,
Robert

You have two machines to process, and one Spare drive.

You can install two OSes on one hard drive, but I don't
particularly recommend that. The dual boot behavior on
Win10 is particularly cruel (slow).

I'm trying not to get too ahead of ourselves here.

These installs also give a chance to experiment. You can
do a Win10-over-Win7 and see whether the programs you kept,
are still workable. And that you can find things.

If you want to run an alternate shell, you can try that out
(Classic Shell for classic menus).

A local account would be

Full Name: Rob Jones
Account: Rob
Homedir /home/users/rob
Password: 12345678

Notice that all of the information bears no relationship to the
outside world. Microsoft neither knows nor cares about the details.

On my test installs for example, I use

Full Name: Bullwinkle
Account: bullwinkle
Homedir /home/users/bullwinkle
Password: 12345678

and that isn't particularly personally identifiable. If I use the
same details on a second computer, it could be a coincidence or
I could be the same guy who used those details on the first machine.

*******

An MSA uses an email address. This is an address where they can
reach you, for password reset purposes.

Full Name:
Account: horat
Homedir /home/users/horat
Password: 1EspeciallyHard2Password!*?

Now my home directory has a screwy name, my password
is hard to type (must be Internet quality password,
no 12345678 here).

But if two machines use then
Microsoft knows the OneDrive storage belongs to both of
them, and the address book in the Mail App is common
to them as well. I can order pizza with Cortana. If
I buy things with a credit card, perhaps my street address
details, my phone number, a whole bunch of details could
be added to my account. The details are stored on a
Microsoft server.

I can use "netplwiz" and an MSA, to autologin my account at
boot time, so I don't have to type that password every time.
But, if I put the machine to sleep, I might be prompted for
that blasted password. You can replace the password with a
PIN (1234), or can use a RealSense webcam to log you in
using your face as proof (3D scan). Some devices will have
a fingerprint reader you can use that for authentication.
And so on.

*******

My plan when starting this exercise, is to generate Digital
Entitlement for both machines. That means installing Win10
on the Spare drive, while connected to the machine in question,
and checking for Activation (the System control panel has
such an indication). If you aren't activated, you can type
"activation" into the Settings menu search box, and it will
show you where to enter the key or whatever.

Longer term planning, for what disk configuration is best,
is saved for later. You might want, say:

+-----+--------+-----------------+-----------------+------------------+
| MBR | Win7 | system reserved | OEM partition | Win10-over-Win7 |
+-----+--------+-----------------+-----------------+------------------+
primary primary primary Extended/logical

The purpose of the setup might be to make the install "maintainable"
so that if a Win10 Upgrade is installed, the disk survives the
encounter.

That's just one possibility.

If you definitely don't like Windows 10, then that might
be one setup, giving you a "supported OS" at some point in time.
You could boot Win7, or boot Win10, and a fancy graphical
boot menu gives you the choice. The boot will be slower than
you're used to.

To make that setup, requires cloning Win7 *twice* onto the same
disk. If you make a simpler setup...

+-----+------------------+-----------------+-----------------+
| MBR | Win10-over-Win7 | system reserved | OEM partition |
+-----+------------------+-----------------+-----------------+
primary primary primary

that would only require a relatively-easy-to-do cloning first.

You know how many Spare disks you have.

You can play with Windows 10, and decide whether it's a disaster.

You get to decide how many machines to convert to Win10.

What I'm trying to get done right now, is generate Digital Entitlement
for both machines, so you have choices. I don't know what Microsofts
plan is, and whether this work will be "worth it" in a years time.
No idea what their plan is.

I don't want to screw up your systems with this foolishness.
I just want to keep your options open, with least
collateral damage. And get you some exposure to Windows 10.

If you want to try a Win10-over-Win7, it's easy to do.
Clone or restore some recent version of Win7 that belongs
to the machine (onto the Spare disk), then run Setup.exe off the DVD while
that Win7 Spare is running.

Paul

Robert in CA wrote:


I just re-read your instructions and to do Win10 over Win 7
I have to use Explorer and open the Media Creation Tool
and find the EXE and click that instead. Is this correct?

Robert

You have media now.

Everything can be done with the DVD!

*******

What you did is a clean install to a blank Spare disk.

Clean install:

1) Place target disk drive in machine.
2) Boot from the DVD.
3) Follow instructions for "Clean Install"
4) Use "Custom" option, to partition the disk if necessary.
I use this to "tune" the setup for my installs.

Win10-over-Win7:

1) Place target disk drive in machine.
2) Boot the Macrium CD.
3) Clone a recent Windows 7 SP1 x64 image onto the Spare hard drive.
4) Shut down Macrium.
5) Boot the hard drive. You are now in Windows 7.
(Windows 7 is activated... check System control panel.)
6) Go to Programs and Features control panel and uninstall Avast.
If you bought Avast and have a subscription, don't lose the
license information!
7) OK, while Windows 7 is still running, insert the Win10 DVD.
Open the DVD drive in My Computer and there is a
"Setup.exe" at the top level. Use that.
8) After a lot of grinding, the Setup window will
give a summary. "Install Win10, keeping programs and
user data". That means it'll keep most all of the
Win7 environment you're used to. Even a lot of your
desktop icons will be there. The Win10-over-Win7 install begins.
9) After the desktop comes back up:
start : run : "control" Opens control panels
System check for activation

10) If everything is OK, now you can re-install Avast.

11) Add Classic Shell or whatever else you want.

*Make sure* that the Windows 10 version matches the same
SKU used on your original Win7 setup. If both machines
had Win7 SP1 Pro x64, then you'd expect Win10 Pro x64
to be on the machine. You can use this to check, as well
as the System control panel.

start : run : "winver"

The winver.exe program has been on Windows since at
least WinXP, and probably as far back as Win98 or so.

Paul

On Sunday, July 7, 2019 at 7:51:21 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:


I just re-read your instructions and to do Win10 over Win 7
I have to use Explorer and open the Media Creation Tool
and find the EXE and click that instead. Is this correct?

Robert

You have media now.

Everything can be done with the DVD!

*******

What you did is a clean install to a blank Spare disk.

Clean install:

1) Place target disk drive in machine.
2) Boot from the DVD.
3) Follow instructions for "Clean Install"
4) Use "Custom" option, to partition the disk if necessary.
I use this to "tune" the setup for my installs.

Win10-over-Win7:

1) Place target disk drive in machine.
2) Boot the Macrium CD.
3) Clone a recent Windows 7 SP1 x64 image onto the Spare hard drive.
4) Shut down Macrium.
5) Boot the hard drive. You are now in Windows 7.
(Windows 7 is activated... check System control panel.)
6) Go to Programs and Features control panel and uninstall Avast.
If you bought Avast and have a subscription, don't lose the
license information!
7) OK, while Windows 7 is still running, insert the Win10 DVD.
Open the DVD drive in My Computer and there is a
"Setup.exe" at the top level. Use that.
8) After a lot of grinding, the Setup window will
give a summary. "Install Win10, keeping programs and
user data". That means it'll keep most all of the
Win7 environment you're used to. Even a lot of your
desktop icons will be there. The Win10-over-Win7 install begins.
9) After the desktop comes back up:
start : run : "control" Opens control panels
System check for activation

10) If everything is OK, now you can re-install Avast.

11) Add Classic Shell or whatever else you want.

*Make sure* that the Windows 10 version matches the same
SKU used on your original Win7 setup. If both machines
had Win7 SP1 Pro x64, then you'd expect Win10 Pro x64
to be on the machine. You can use this to check, as well
as the System control panel.

start : run : "winver"

The winver.exe program has been on Windows since at
least WinXP, and probably as far back as Win98 or so.

Paul


I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to
move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

Robert

In message ,
Robert in CA writes:
[]
I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

No, you don't have to use ANY email, to set up a "local account" to
install W10; you just have to select options that aren't obvious during
the install. However, you may not need to do it at all (for the computer
you've been using) anyway - read on.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

(Probably not.)

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So you've got that machine back to W7, which is what you prefer. *It*
now has no trace of W10 on it (but its _entitlement_ may be logged at
Microsoft).

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

*If*, when you had W10 on that machine, you checked for activation
(Paul's instructions) *and it was*, then you have the "entitlement" for
that machine, logged on the Microsoft activation server, AND YOU DON'T
NEED TO DO ANYTHING FURTHER, unless and until you decide AT SOME POINT
IN THE FUTURE that you actually want to change to 10. (Am I right,
Paul?) The only reason to do ANYTHING else at this point on that machine
would be if you _wanted_ to have a play with W10, to see how you get on
with it.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

No I won't! Well, if you actually *paid* for Avast, then things might be
different, but assuming you're using the free version, then just go to
the Avast website once you've installed 10 (if you do), and I'm sure
there'll be a big download button.

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

In order to get the "entitlement" for both computers logged on the
Microsoft server so that you can (re)use it at some point in the future,
you have to install/upgrade-to W10 on both computers. If you checked
while you had W10 running on the computer you've done and it was
activated, then you don't need to do anything more with that one. If you
want to be sure of having the _option_ of going to W10 on the _other_
computer at some time in the future, you need to put W10 on it now (even
if only temporarily). It's up to you how you use your various HDs.

Paul, have I got this (above paragraph) right?

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

That depends how you install W10.

1. If you boot from the W10 CD and do a clean install, you'll have only
a clean W10, with no trace of your old system. (At some point during the
install you have to select something non-obvious in order to make it a
"local account" if that's what you want. That's a separate matter from
what type of 10 you're doing.)

2. If you boot as normal into W7, (uninstall your AV,) then run
setup.exe from the W10 CD, and choose the correct option (upgrade?),
you'll have only W10, but your bookmarks - and many of your other prog.s
- will come over from W7. (At some point during the install you have to
select something non-obvious in order to make it a "local account" if
that's what you want. That's a separate matter from what type of 10
you're doing.)

3. You _can_ make a dual-boot system, though Paul was advising against
it, on various grounds, including that booting is slow. As for how, if
you really want to go that way, re-read Paul's instructions - IIRR it's
complicated.

I think only option 3 would _necessitate_ any partitioning. (Personally
I keep a C: partition for Windows-plus-software, and a D: partition for
all my data, and I'd do that whatever Windows [or other!] I was running.
But that's a different matter.)

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to

You're getting the Win10 *entitlement* by the action of installing Win10
_on a specific computer_ (and checking that it is activated). Once
you've done that, you can go back to 7 (as you now have on the first
machine): your _entitlement_ to go to 10 _on that machine_ has been
established (if you checked that it was).

move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

If, after installing 10 to get the entitlement to do this in the future,
you go back to 7 (using .mrimg and the Macrium CD, as you've just done,
is probably the easiest way), as you have done with the first machine,
then yes, if/when you ultimately decide to go to W10 on that machine,
you will indeed have to do it all over - though you may decide to do it
(the move from 7 to 10) a different way (and with a "local account").

The _reason_ for doing it now, *even if only temporarily*, on any
machine with 7 on that you might want to put 10 on later, is to get the
entitlement *with that machine*, logged on the Microsoft server -
because Microsoft might at any time /withdraw/ the right to the free
upgrade from 7 (but will still honour it for those who have done this
tedious exercise). Most of the general public think the free upgrade
offer stopped a year or two ago anyway, when it stopped being "pushed"
through the Windows Update system; it's only through Paul and others
discovering that it can still be invoked that we know it can - for now.

Robert
John
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

I still say a church steeple with a lightning rod on top shows a lack of
confidence. D McLeod

Robert in CA wrote:

I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to
move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

Robert

One purpose of the MSA is for "Cloud" functions.
If you use any feature of the OS, where "all your
machines see the same thing", using the same MSA
for all of them would be key to that working.

I don't really know the requirements for the MSA
email address. I think it took a GMAIL one of mine.

https://support.xbox.com/en-CA/my-ac...t/choose-email

* An email address with a Microsoft domain such as
@live.com, @outlook.com, or @msn.com
* Any valid email address that you use and monitor regularly

The "different user name" should not make a difference
if they share the same MSA. The MSA is the identifier that
the Cloud side uses.

*******

When you installed Avast, didn't you keep the installer
file around somewhere ? The only reason I would care, is
you probably know the difference between the free and
the subscription version, and what controls whether it
comes up in Free mode or whatever. I don't keep track
of the offers these companies make, and I couldn't tell
you what version you were using.

https://www.getavast.net/downloads/

"Once you finish your first Smart Scan, set up a regular
automatic (scheduled) weekly Full System Scan (here’s how).
Within the first 30 days, you need to register for a
free 1-year license. The registration is very simple and
requires only e-mail (can be a fake one as there is no confirmation)."

https://www.getavast.net/downloads/free-license-key/5 === key on this page

There are some links here. The offline file would be
a full installer (a large file).

https://www.avast.com/installation-files

The file I got from the "free" link, offline version was

avast_free_antivirus_setup_offline.exe 353,085,976 bytes

And a removal tool, if you needed it.

https://www.avast.com/uninstall-utility

If you want to start the Windows 10 install *without*
removing Avast, you can test that... and see if the
install is rolled back to Windows 7 when it's all
finished. I'm just looking out for "potential issues"
here. I don't use Avast, so I have no first
hand experience with what effects it might have.
Really, as long as the install process finished the
"file copy phase", you would think Microsoft would be
in control. But maybe they don't have migration logic
for all 50 different AV products.

At least I've warned you that Avast *could* be an issue.
It's up to you and your patience level, as to how
you want to go about this stuff.

And that's why we're using the Spare drive at the moment,
as a testbed for discovery. Once you've honed your
techniques, and you've made your usage plan, you'll
be in much better shape to get the "final" configuration
right.

And the only reason I'm doing this, is to answer the
question "my Windows 7 is out of support, what do I do now".
If you want to use Windows 7 forever, that's fine too. But
you know how the computer industry is, and how they'll
break things for fun and make it tougher. Otherwise,
I wouldn't be "selling" you Windows 10. I don't use
Windows 10 here as a "daily driver" - it's for test
and that's about all.

*******

You "do it to both machines" if you want a free
Digital Entitlement for both machines.

You are, in essence, using your Windows 7 key as
a "ticket to a free lunch". When you install Win10,
it can use the Windows 7 key as a proof of purchase.

Think of it as a way of extending support for your
Windows OS, past 2020.

Windows 10 is an annoying OS, because sometimes when
a Windows Update is being installed, it affects
subsystems in subtle ways. And you're "supposed to know"
that "doing a reboot right now would be a good idea".
Sometimes you go to reach for the "shutdown" menu,
and it reads "update and shutdown" instead, which
means Windows Update runs before the machine is
allowed to stop. It's that kind of nonsense that
doesn't make me a happy customer.

I was hoping after you finished your first install,
you'd casually examine the menu thing. You can install
classic shell if you want, and see whether you can
stand to use it, when it is "skinned".

And if you practice a Win10-over-Win7 install (by
cloning Win7 to the Spare drive first), you will
get to see whether it installs over top of Avast
OK, as well as getting to see that your personal
programs and files were preserved as expected.
The installer reserves the right to not migrate
a program, and there should be a notification on
the screen for any program that it chose not to migrate.
(Programs which are not compatible with Windows 10,
get blocked like that.)

*You* provide the plan. *I* provide the means (to
the best of my ability). There will be some people
who flat-out refuse to use Windows 10, and that's
OK too. I'm not giving you Windows 10 because it's
wonderful. I'm providing a route to Windows 10 because
it's free and because it extends your support
window (if you care).

There is a free offer available. If you don't
want it, you don't have to participate. It's all
up to you as to what happens next. You can do it
for both machines... if you want. Both machines
should qualify, and that's the only reason for
testing this.

*******

If you wanted Linux instead, that's a possibility too.

But Linux is the same situation as Windows 10.
You may not like it.
You may not be able to figure it out.
There are too many choices for a first time user (500 distros).
Finding a recipe for something - there could be many
out-of-date web pages waiting for you. It relies
a lot more on "user initiative". The Linux people
keep telling me that "Grandma" can run it -- and
i don't believe them :-)

Paul

In message , Paul
writes:
[]
And the only reason I'm doing this, is to answer the
question "my Windows 7 is out of support, what do I do now".
If you want to use Windows 7 forever, that's fine too. But
you know how the computer industry is, and how they'll
break things for fun and make it tougher. Otherwise,

You are so right there. )-:
[]
You are, in essence, using your Windows 7 key as
a "ticket to a free lunch". When you install Win10,
it can use the Windows 7 key as a proof of purchase.

Think of it as a way of extending support for your
Windows OS, past 2020.

Windows 10 is an annoying OS, because sometimes when
[]
allowed to stop. It's that kind of nonsense that
doesn't make me a happy customer.

Plus, its default way of doing a lot of things is different to what
we've become used to - sometimes for (possibly good) reasons that
they're just not good at explaining (mostly they don't even try),
sometimes for no good reason (as far as the _user_ is concerned).
[]
There is a free offer available. If you don't
want it, you don't have to participate. It's all

Do we have any indication when the free offer might end? When W7 support
ends, for example?
[]
(Linux)
There are too many choices for a first time user (500 distros).
Finding a recipe for something - there could be many
out-of-date web pages waiting for you. It relies
a lot more on "user initiative". The Linux people
keep telling me that "Grandma" can run it -- and
i don't believe them :-)

Me neither. (I'm also reminded of Tom Lehrer's line [in "New Math"]:
"It's so simple - so very simple - that only, a child, can do it!")

Paul
John
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

The web is a blank slate; you can't design technology that is 'good'. You can't
design paper that you can only write good things on. There are no good or evil
tools. You can put an engine in an ambulance or a tank. - Sir Tim Berners-Lee,
Radio Times 2009-Jan-30 to -Feb-5.

We need to postpone this for a little while
because my back went out and I can't lift
anything at this point.

I will read all your information so I'll be
ready once I feel better and we'll resume
where we left off.

Many thanks,

Robert

[]
I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

No, you don't have to use ANY email, to set up a "local account" to
install W10; you just have to select options that aren't obvious during
the install. However, you may not need to do it at all (for the computer
you've been using) anyway - read on.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

(Probably not.)

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So you've got that machine back to W7, which is what you prefer. *It*
now has no trace of W10 on it (but its _entitlement_ may be logged at
Microsoft).

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

*If*, when you had W10 on that machine, you checked for activation
(Paul's instructions) *and it was*, then you have the "entitlement" for
that machine, logged on the Microsoft activation server, AND YOU DON'T
NEED TO DO ANYTHING FURTHER, unless and until you decide AT SOME POINT
IN THE FUTURE that you actually want to change to 10. (Am I right,
Paul?) The only reason to do ANYTHING else at this point on that machine
would be if you _wanted_ to have a play with W10, to see how you get on
with it.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

No I won't! Well, if you actually *paid* for Avast, then things might be
different, but assuming you're using the free version, then just go to
the Avast website once you've installed 10 (if you do), and I'm sure
there'll be a big download button.

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

In order to get the "entitlement" for both computers logged on the
Microsoft server so that you can (re)use it at some point in the future,
you have to install/upgrade-to W10 on both computers. If you checked
while you had W10 running on the computer you've done and it was
activated, then you don't need to do anything more with that one. If you
want to be sure of having the _option_ of going to W10 on the _other_
computer at some time in the future, you need to put W10 on it now (even
if only temporarily). It's up to you how you use your various HDs.

Paul, have I got this (above paragraph) right?

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

That depends how you install W10.

1. If you boot from the W10 CD and do a clean install, you'll have only
a clean W10, with no trace of your old system. (At some point during the
install you have to select something non-obvious in order to make it a
"local account" if that's what you want. That's a separate matter from
what type of 10 you're doing.)

2. If you boot as normal into W7, (uninstall your AV,) then run
setup.exe from the W10 CD, and choose the correct option (upgrade?),
you'll have only W10, but your bookmarks - and many of your other prog.s
- will come over from W7. (At some point during the install you have to
select something non-obvious in order to make it a "local account" if
that's what you want. That's a separate matter from what type of 10
you're doing.)

3. You _can_ make a dual-boot system, though Paul was advising against
it, on various grounds, including that booting is slow. As for how, if
you really want to go that way, re-read Paul's instructions - IIRR it's
complicated.

I think only option 3 would _necessitate_ any partitioning. (Personally
I keep a C: partition for Windows-plus-software, and a D: partition for
all my data, and I'd do that whatever Windows [or other!] I was running.
But that's a different matter.)

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to

You're getting the Win10 *entitlement* by the action of installing Win10
_on a specific computer_ (and checking that it is activated). Once
you've done that, you can go back to 7 (as you now have on the first
machine): your _entitlement_ to go to 10 _on that machine_ has been
established (if you checked that it was).

move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

If, after installing 10 to get the entitlement to do this in the future,
you go back to 7 (using .mrimg and the Macrium CD, as you've just done,
is probably the easiest way), as you have done with the first machine,
then yes, if/when you ultimately decide to go to W10 on that machine,
you will indeed have to do it all over - though you may decide to do it
(the move from 7 to 10) a different way (and with a "local account").

The _reason_ for doing it now, *even if only temporarily*, on any
machine with 7 on that you might want to put 10 on later, is to get the
entitlement *with that machine*, logged on the Microsoft server -
because Microsoft might at any time /withdraw/ the right to the free
upgrade from 7 (but will still honour it for those who have done this
tedious exercise). Most of the general public think the free upgrade
offer stopped a year or two ago anyway, when it stopped being "pushed"
through the Windows Update system; it's only through Paul and others
discovering that it can still be invoked that we know it can - for now.

Robert
John
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

I still say a church steeple with a lightning rod on top shows a lack of
confidence. D McLeod



The reason I asked Paul for a download link is
because he knows I have tried before to go to
sites to find downloads and I ended up downloading
the wrong thing then end up with other problems.

It's safer to ask here and be sure than play
Russian roulette.

Robert

On Monday, July 8, 2019 at 5:20:09 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to
move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

Robert

One purpose of the MSA is for "Cloud" functions.
If you use any feature of the OS, where "all your
machines see the same thing", using the same MSA
for all of them would be key to that working.

I don't really know the requirements for the MSA
email address. I think it took a GMAIL one of mine.

https://support.xbox.com/en-CA/my-ac...t/choose-email

* An email address with a Microsoft domain such as
@live.com, @outlook.com, or @msn.com
* Any valid email address that you use and monitor regularly

The "different user name" should not make a difference
if they share the same MSA. The MSA is the identifier that
the Cloud side uses.

*******

When you installed Avast, didn't you keep the installer
file around somewhere ? The only reason I would care, is
you probably know the difference between the free and
the subscription version, and what controls whether it
comes up in Free mode or whatever. I don't keep track
of the offers these companies make, and I couldn't tell
you what version you were using.

https://www.getavast.net/downloads/

"Once you finish your first Smart Scan, set up a regular
automatic (scheduled) weekly Full System Scan (here’s how).
Within the first 30 days, you need to register for a
free 1-year license. The registration is very simple and
requires only e-mail (can be a fake one as there is no confirmation).."

https://www.getavast.net/downloads/free-license-key/5 === key on this page

There are some links here. The offline file would be
a full installer (a large file).

https://www.avast.com/installation-files

The file I got from the "free" link, offline version was

avast_free_antivirus_setup_offline.exe 353,085,976 bytes

And a removal tool, if you needed it.

https://www.avast.com/uninstall-utility

If you want to start the Windows 10 install *without*
removing Avast, you can test that... and see if the
install is rolled back to Windows 7 when it's all
finished. I'm just looking out for "potential issues"
here. I don't use Avast, so I have no first
hand experience with what effects it might have.
Really, as long as the install process finished the
"file copy phase", you would think Microsoft would be
in control. But maybe they don't have migration logic
for all 50 different AV products.

At least I've warned you that Avast *could* be an issue.
It's up to you and your patience level, as to how
you want to go about this stuff.

And that's why we're using the Spare drive at the moment,
as a testbed for discovery. Once you've honed your
techniques, and you've made your usage plan, you'll
be in much better shape to get the "final" configuration
right.

And the only reason I'm doing this, is to answer the
question "my Windows 7 is out of support, what do I do now".
If you want to use Windows 7 forever, that's fine too. But
you know how the computer industry is, and how they'll
break things for fun and make it tougher. Otherwise,
I wouldn't be "selling" you Windows 10. I don't use
Windows 10 here as a "daily driver" - it's for test
and that's about all.

*******

You "do it to both machines" if you want a free
Digital Entitlement for both machines.

You are, in essence, using your Windows 7 key as
a "ticket to a free lunch". When you install Win10,
it can use the Windows 7 key as a proof of purchase.

Think of it as a way of extending support for your
Windows OS, past 2020.

Windows 10 is an annoying OS, because sometimes when
a Windows Update is being installed, it affects
subsystems in subtle ways. And you're "supposed to know"
that "doing a reboot right now would be a good idea".
Sometimes you go to reach for the "shutdown" menu,
and it reads "update and shutdown" instead, which
means Windows Update runs before the machine is
allowed to stop. It's that kind of nonsense that
doesn't make me a happy customer.

I was hoping after you finished your first install,
you'd casually examine the menu thing. You can install
classic shell if you want, and see whether you can
stand to use it, when it is "skinned".

And if you practice a Win10-over-Win7 install (by
cloning Win7 to the Spare drive first), you will
get to see whether it installs over top of Avast
OK, as well as getting to see that your personal
programs and files were preserved as expected.
The installer reserves the right to not migrate
a program, and there should be a notification on
the screen for any program that it chose not to migrate.
(Programs which are not compatible with Windows 10,
get blocked like that.)

*You* provide the plan. *I* provide the means (to
the best of my ability). There will be some people
who flat-out refuse to use Windows 10, and that's
OK too. I'm not giving you Windows 10 because it's
wonderful. I'm providing a route to Windows 10 because
it's free and because it extends your support
window (if you care).

There is a free offer available. If you don't
want it, you don't have to participate. It's all
up to you as to what happens next. You can do it
for both machines... if you want. Both machines
should qualify, and that's the only reason for
testing this.

*******

If you wanted Linux instead, that's a possibility too.

But Linux is the same situation as Windows 10.
You may not like it.
You may not be able to figure it out.
There are too many choices for a first time user (500 distros).
Finding a recipe for something - there could be many
out-of-date web pages waiting for you. It relies
a lot more on "user initiative". The Linux people
keep telling me that "Grandma" can run it -- and
i don't believe them :-)

Paul

Understood,,, and I did play around with Win 10 for a bit
to see how it worked. I did find that everything was in
alphabetical order which I liked and I did send you the
message from Win10. So I did use it a little.

I agree that its best to be prepared to extend my support
for my OS and yes both machines. However, I'm not fully
understanding the activation Key. Once I verify I have
Win10 over Win 7 on the 8500 and then use the same HD
for the 780 how do I regain Win 10 for the 8500? How does
this work?

To my way of thinking I set up one HD with Win10 over Win 7
for the 8500 and another HD with Win 10 over Win 7 for the 780
I could use the spare 780 HD for this. So that in the event
of switching to Win 10 I will have formatted HD's ready to go.

What do you think?

I checked and I do have several Avast.exe in my downloads folder
so should I use that?

Thanks,
Robert

[]
I'm trying to follow and understand your
instructions. It does seem I have to make
up a new valid email account and not use
my regular email account on Outlook for
this to work. Am I correct? Strange that
it would not accept my Yahoo email which
is what I usually use for non personal
emails.

No, you don't have to use ANY email, to set up a "local account" to
install W10; you just have to select options that aren't obvious during
the install. However, you may not need to do it at all (for the computer
you've been using) anyway - read on.

I do have a different user name for both
computers so I wouldn't think they would
be able to share?

(Probably not.)

It seems I've done the first part and
installed Win 7 Pro from the latest Mrimg
I did a Winver:

http://i64.tinypic.com/w02dyv.jpg

So you've got that machine back to W7, which is what you prefer. *It*
now has no trace of W10 on it (but its _entitlement_ may be logged at
Microsoft).

So I look for the Setup.exe and the SKU
for Win 10 Pro.

*If*, when you had W10 on that machine, you checked for activation
(Paul's instructions) *and it was*, then you have the "entitlement" for
that machine, logged on the Microsoft activation server, AND YOU DON'T
NEED TO DO ANYTHING FURTHER, unless and until you decide AT SOME POINT
IN THE FUTURE that you actually want to change to 10. (Am I right,
Paul?) The only reason to do ANYTHING else at this point on that machine
would be if you _wanted_ to have a play with W10, to see how you get on
with it.

I checked and I don't have a download link
for Avast once I uninstall it. Could you
please provide me with a link to re-install
it?

No I won't! Well, if you actually *paid* for Avast, then things might be
different, but assuming you're using the free version, then just go to
the Avast website once you've installed 10 (if you do), and I'm sure
there'll be a big download button.

So you want to do this to both computers?
The 8500 and the 780? I only have the one spare
HD, besides the formatted backup HD's for the
8500 and the 780. I would need to get another
drive for the 780 or will we just use the same
drive? I'm not understanding this.

In order to get the "entitlement" for both computers logged on the
Microsoft server so that you can (re)use it at some point in the future,
you have to install/upgrade-to W10 on both computers. If you checked
while you had W10 running on the computer you've done and it was
activated, then you don't need to do anything more with that one. If you
want to be sure of having the _option_ of going to W10 on the _other_
computer at some time in the future, you need to put W10 on it now (even
if only temporarily). It's up to you how you use your various HDs.

Paul, have I got this (above paragraph) right?

When finished if all goes well, I'll have a HD
with Windows 7 and Windows 10 on it or will it
just have Win10 with my bookmarks from Win7? Do
I have to do any partitioning?

That depends how you install W10.

1. If you boot from the W10 CD and do a clean install, you'll have only
a clean W10, with no trace of your old system. (At some point during the
install you have to select something non-obvious in order to make it a
"local account" if that's what you want. That's a separate matter from
what type of 10 you're doing.)

2. If you boot as normal into W7, (uninstall your AV,) then run
setup.exe from the W10 CD, and choose the correct option (upgrade?),
you'll have only W10, but your bookmarks - and many of your other prog.s
- will come over from W7. (At some point during the install you have to
select something non-obvious in order to make it a "local account" if
that's what you want. That's a separate matter from what type of 10
you're doing.)

3. You _can_ make a dual-boot system, though Paul was advising against
it, on various grounds, including that booting is slow. As for how, if
you really want to go that way, re-read Paul's instructions - IIRR it's
complicated.

I think only option 3 would _necessitate_ any partitioning. (Personally
I keep a C: partition for Windows-plus-software, and a D: partition for
all my data, and I'd do that whatever Windows [or other!] I was running.
But that's a different matter.)

If we do the 780 will we use the same HD and
just repeat the process? I don't understand how
I'm getting the Win10 key? If and when I have to

You're getting the Win10 *entitlement* by the action of installing Win10
_on a specific computer_ (and checking that it is activated). Once
you've done that, you can go back to 7 (as you now have on the first
machine): your _entitlement_ to go to 10 _on that machine_ has been
established (if you checked that it was).

move to Win10 won't I have to do this process all
over?

If, after installing 10 to get the entitlement to do this in the future,
you go back to 7 (using .mrimg and the Macrium CD, as you've just done,
is probably the easiest way), as you have done with the first machine,
then yes, if/when you ultimately decide to go to W10 on that machine,
you will indeed have to do it all over - though you may decide to do it
(the move from 7 to 10) a different way (and with a "local account").

The _reason_ for doing it now, *even if only temporarily*, on any
machine with 7 on that you might want to put 10 on later, is to get the
entitlement *with that machine*, logged on the Microsoft server -
because Microsoft might at any time /withdraw/ the right to the free
upgrade from 7 (but will still honour it for those who have done this
tedious exercise). Most of the general public think the free upgrade
offer stopped a year or two ago anyway, when it stopped being "pushed"
through the Windows Update system; it's only through Paul and others
discovering that it can still be invoked that we know it can - for now.

Robert
John
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

I still say a church steeple with a lightning rod on top shows a lack of
confidence. D McLeod


Well during the install it asked for an email
so I guess I did something wrong?

I will be more cautious this next time and take pics
of every step.


Robert

Robert in CA wrote:


Understood,,, and I did play around with Win 10 for a bit
to see how it worked. I did find that everything was in
alphabetical order which I liked and I did send you the
message from Win10. So I did use it a little.

I agree that its best to be prepared to extend my support
for my OS and yes both machines. However, I'm not fully
understanding the activation Key. Once I verify I have
Win10 over Win 7 on the 8500 and then use the same HD
for the 780 how do I regain Win 10 for the 8500? How does
this work?

To my way of thinking I set up one HD with Win10 over Win 7
for the 8500 and another HD with Win 10 over Win 7 for the 780
I could use the spare 780 HD for this. So that in the event
of switching to Win 10 I will have formatted HD's ready to go.

What do you think?

I checked and I do have several Avast.exe in my downloads folder
so should I use that?

Thanks,
Robert

This early in the game, there is only one objective.

And that's to get the free Digital Entitlement.

To make a permanent install, we have to work within
your resources, and make the best usage possible of them.

You can't leave a "Daily" OS on a "Spare" drive. That's a waste.

You were supposed to check that the OS was activated on
the machine... because that is the purpose of doing this
install. To make sure the Digital Entitlement worked.

https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/...dows-10-a.html

Pictu

https://www.tenforums.com/attachment..._activated.png

If there was something noteworthy about the "Spare" drive OS install,
you can always back it up. I would not bother at this point.

As an example, you could move the spare to the 780, install Win10,
and use the 780 as your "Win10 experiment center". And use the
Spare drive for a while. You could do a Win10-over-Win7 and see
whether Avast needs to be removed, see whether your programs
work OK and so on.

Even with the pile of drives I've got all over the place
here, an OS never stays on a "Spare" drive more than
a few days, before I see something shiny and erase the
OS and put something else on it :-) You don't do "real"
installs on "Spares", because you need the "Spare"
to be "Spare".

One of the problems I have here, is finding an actual
Spare that doesn't have crap on it.

Paul