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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
I may or may not be having trouble installing software from a CD onto an XP Acer Netbook without a CD drive. I copied all the files to a flashdrive and I think once I installed from the flashdrive and for sure once I copied from the flashdrive to the HDD and installed from that. I get one .dll that does not "register" (error messages below**) whatever that means. (And the first time I don't know if this is the fault of the software, the XP installation, or the fact that I'm going from the flashdrive and not a CD. I didn't suspect the last possibility until someone else on Amazon thought it was his problem. Is copying to a thumb drive and installing from that ever a problem? Somewhere I have a USB CD drive that the ebay seller of the netbook included, and I can find it if it would increase my chance for success. If not that, then what can I do to resolve the error messages at the bottom**? Background: I bought a new used car, 2005 Toyota Solara, and it has the check engine light and codes 0171 and 0174, meaning a lean mixture. I've done the easy repairs, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the PCV valve (which was not leaking), and adding fuel injection cleaner (only 50 miles ago, so I don't think it could have worked yet). The next step is to *replace* the MAF sensor for $85, doing it myself. And after that, likely parts are $140 and $150 dollars and $50, and I might need all three and might need installation of one or two of them for another $200. I hate to just replace parts without knowing which part is bad. I was hoping to use this tool with its software to get more info about the problem, from which "an experienced knowledgable mechanic could easily diagnose" the problem, another webpage unrelated to this item says. It will probably take me hours to read about it and look at test results, and even then I wont' know the answer, but I want to try. I've already learned how the air/fuel ratio and 02 sensors work, pretty much, including trim, but since I don't know what short term or long term trim I have been having, or my fuel pressure (which most cars didn't report 5 or 10 years ago (I don't know if it has increased.) understanding things doesn't help. I need the data. For example an inadequate fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter can cause a lean mixture, although since the car goes 80 without a problem, my primitive mind doubts that that is the problem. I have a year before the car is due for emissions inspection (its schedule is independent of who owns it), but a) I don't want to pollute or waste gas so I'd like to fix it asap, b) there are still some warm days this fall. **Installation error messages. Despite these messages, the program started, and ran without crashing or error messages but didn't behave as expected: 10 or 15 of these for different files, but only the first time I installed it. How come they didn't recur the second time?: "CRC error: The file C:\Program Files\... AHB)_1`2PF_P4.ddb doesn't match the file in the setup's .cab file. The medium from which you are running the setup may be corrupted; contact your software vendor." How can the file not match the .cab file? Isn't it extracted from the .cab file in the first place? If not, what is the .cab file for? This one only occurred once, or conceivably it was the other one that only occurred once and this one 10 to 15 times***. "Error 1904, Module C:\Windows\system32\msxml4.dll failed to register. HRESULT -2147023782. Contact your support personnel" AFAIC, you guys are my support personnel. What does registering entail? Can I register the file by hand. (It sounds like it's installed, just not registered. But if it's not even installed, maybe I can extract it by hand and move it to system 32? Or maybe even find a copy online? ***From two days ago, I thought it was reversed but the errors are listed in this order where I saved them. I found and dl'd another copy of the software and installed it again and this time I got one installation error message and then a fatal runtime error message" "This application has failed to start because tiswebapi.dll was not found. Re-installing the application may fix this problem." |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
micky wrote:
I may or may not be having trouble installing software from a CD onto an XP Acer Netbook without a CD drive. I copied all the files to a flashdrive and I think once I installed from the flashdrive and for sure once I copied from the flashdrive to the HDD and installed from that. I get one .dll that does not "register" (error messages below**) whatever that means. (And the first time I don't know if this is the fault of the software, the XP installation, or the fact that I'm going from the flashdrive and not a CD. I didn't suspect the last possibility until someone else on Amazon thought it was his problem. Is copying to a thumb drive and installing from that ever a problem? Somewhere I have a USB CD drive that the ebay seller of the netbook included, and I can find it if it would increase my chance for success. If not that, then what can I do to resolve the error messages at the bottom**? Background: I bought a new used car, 2005 Toyota Solara, and it has the check engine light and codes 0171 and 0174, meaning a lean mixture. I've done the easy repairs, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the PCV valve (which was not leaking), and adding fuel injection cleaner (only 50 miles ago, so I don't think it could have worked yet). The next step is to *replace* the MAF sensor for $85, doing it myself. And after that, likely parts are $140 and $150 dollars and $50, and I might need all three and might need installation of one or two of them for another $200. I hate to just replace parts without knowing which part is bad. I was hoping to use this tool with its software to get more info about the problem, from which "an experienced knowledgable mechanic could easily diagnose" the problem, another webpage unrelated to this item says. It will probably take me hours to read about it and look at test results, and even then I wont' know the answer, but I want to try. I've already learned how the air/fuel ratio and 02 sensors work, pretty much, including trim, but since I don't know what short term or long term trim I have been having, or my fuel pressure (which most cars didn't report 5 or 10 years ago (I don't know if it has increased.) understanding things doesn't help. I need the data. For example an inadequate fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter can cause a lean mixture, although since the car goes 80 without a problem, my primitive mind doubts that that is the problem. I have a year before the car is due for emissions inspection (its schedule is independent of who owns it), but a) I don't want to pollute or waste gas so I'd like to fix it asap, b) there are still some warm days this fall. **Installation error messages. Despite these messages, the program started, and ran without crashing or error messages but didn't behave as expected: 10 or 15 of these for different files, but only the first time I installed it. How come they didn't recur the second time?: "CRC error: The file C:\Program Files\... AHB)_1`2PF_P4.ddb doesn't match the file in the setup's .cab file. The medium from which you are running the setup may be corrupted; contact your software vendor." How can the file not match the .cab file? Isn't it extracted from the .cab file in the first place? If not, what is the .cab file for? This one only occurred once, or conceivably it was the other one that only occurred once and this one 10 to 15 times***. "Error 1904, Module C:\Windows\system32\msxml4.dll failed to register. HRESULT -2147023782. Contact your support personnel" AFAIC, you guys are my support personnel. What does registering entail? Can I register the file by hand. (It sounds like it's installed, just not registered. But if it's not even installed, maybe I can extract it by hand and move it to system 32? Or maybe even find a copy online? ***From two days ago, I thought it was reversed but the errors are listed in this order where I saved them. I found and dl'd another copy of the software and installed it again and this time I got one installation error message and then a fatal runtime error message" "This application has failed to start because tiswebapi.dll was not found. Re-installing the application may fix this problem." MSXML4 is available for download. If you've already installed this, there's probably an entry in your Add/Remove Programs. This is SP3 for MSXML4. https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/down....aspx?id=15697 ******* Registering is described here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regsvr32 It's intended to identify the most recent version of a shared library or something. ******* There's at least one other Toyota TechStream reported incident with tiswebapi.dll in here. http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums...eam-Activation https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...nown_bugs.html The second link seems to indicate this is a Java App ? Presumably so it can be multi-platform. Think of the extra fun that's going to add to the project. (Paul hates Java, because of the maintenance headaches it causes. Version hell plus potential security issues. But, we don't get a choice in the matter, if someone uses Java in a commercial program.) ******* We have the same emissions regulations here. The emissions check is determined by "no illuminated check engine light". This means the owner has to clean up totally irrelevant codes before taking the car to be "inspected" for emissions. For example, my car was showing an intake manifold runner control error, and that has *no* effect on emissions. It affects acceleration. And my acceleration was not affected, even though there was a code. Modern cars are "run" by their catalytic converter, the fuel/air and oxygen sensors (the two sensors on the three-way cat are *not* identical). I think you know this, whereas I was searching the web like crazy to understand this. When work was done on my cat, the idiots *did not* replace both sensors. Which says they're not a matched set. Which is weird, when you consider how most sensors work. The ignition computer in your car, is trying to maintain a "stoichiometric fuel-air mixture". This is richer than the most efficient operating point. You could run the car leaner, but it would result in different emissions numbers if you did so. The end result is, the car wastes gas, to give good CO2 and H2O output, without CO or NO2 or something like that. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter I would take a quick whiff of the exhaust. If you smell gas, then the ignition computer is trying to make the mixture richer, and the sensors aren't tripping to stop it. The sensors seem to be a bang-bang controller, and don't really offer a "continuous" sensor output. Once a materials threshold is passed, the sensor changes state. This means the feedback loop "hunts" for the correct operating point, on a continuous basis. One of the materials in the cat, acts as an "oxygen reservoir", and that helps prevent instantaneous degradation of the cat. The oxygen reservoir recharges when the system "swings the other way". The mechanics on my car, hardly seemed to care at all about how it worked. It seemed they were mainly interested in whether the check engine light would go off. I don't really know whether there's any actual calibration procedure available for those two stupid sensors. A lot of "trust" seems to be involved. But if you smelled gas, that would generally be bad. It might be OK to smell gas at startup, but once it's warm, it shouldn't be over-rich. I smell vehicles here all the time, with excessive gasoline emissions, and I know damn well there's no cat underneath their car. They install the cat only long enough to pass emissions. If you run a cat too rich, it'll go into runaway, and achieve an impressively high surface temperature. It will get hot enough, to glow like a light bulb, at night. I've seen one do it... The road was lit up, underneath a pickup truck with that problem. The noise sounds like a jet engine. I asked the person doing my emissions, if they "check for cheating", and he indicated they don't look for mods. It's an honor system. If your check engine light does come on here, only a few garages have the older "actual" emissions systems check. Which slides over the exhaust pipe. Most garages have removed those, after the government "simplified" the requirements. Now the garage gets money from the government, to "stare at your check engine light". ****, I could do that... Paul |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Mon, 16 Oct 2017 17:49:31
-0400, Paul wrote: micky wrote: I may or may not be having trouble installing software from a CD onto an XP Acer Netbook without a CD drive. I copied all the files to a flashdrive and I think once I installed from the flashdrive and for sure once I copied from the flashdrive to the HDD and installed from that. I get one .dll that does not "register" (error messages below**) whatever that means. (And the first time I don't know if this is the fault of the software, the XP installation, or the fact that I'm going from the flashdrive and not a CD. I didn't suspect the last possibility until someone else on Amazon thought it was his problem. Is copying to a thumb drive and installing from that ever a problem? Somewhere I have a USB CD drive that the ebay seller of the netbook included, and I can find it if it would increase my chance for success. If not that, then what can I do to resolve the error messages at the bottom**? Computer stuff is in-line where Paul's answer starts, but I updated the auto situation too . Background: I bought a new used car, 2005 Toyota Solara, and it has the check engine light and codes 0171 and 0174, meaning a lean mixture. I've done the easy repairs, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the PCV valve (which was not leaking), and adding fuel injection cleaner (only 50 miles ago, I don't know why I said it wasn't leaking. It was. so I don't think it could have worked yet). The next step is to *replace* the MAF sensor for $85, doing it myself. And after that, I did that. After that the most likely problem is a vacuum leak somewhere, but I haven't been able to find it. I don't hear hissing and using an unlit propane torch hasn't found a leak. likely parts are $140 and $150 dollars and $50, and I might need all three Actually there are four, and I can replace 3 of them myself but the fourth is hard to get to even with a lift. and might need installation of one or two of them for another $200. I hate to just replace parts without knowing which part is bad. I was hoping to use this tool with its software to get more info about the problem, from which "an experienced knowledgable mechanic could easily diagnose" the problem, another webpage unrelated to this item says. It will probably take me hours to read about it and look at test results, and even then I wont' know the answer, but I want to try. I've already learned how the air/fuel ratio and 02 sensors work, pretty much, including trim, but since I don't know what short term or long term trim I have been having, or my fuel pressure (which most cars didn't report 5 or 10 years ago (I don't know if it has increased.) understanding things doesn't help. I need the data. For example an inadequate fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter can cause a lean mixture, although since the car goes 80 without a problem, my primitive mind doubts that that is the problem. I have a year before the car is due for emissions inspection (its schedule is independent of who owns it), but a) I don't want to pollute or waste gas so I'd like to fix it asap, b) there are still some warm days this fall. I read that running with the check engine light on for a long time can damage the engine, but it probably depends on why it's on. IIRC lean mixtures can make an engine overheat, but mine so far is right in the middle. **Installation error messages. Despite these messages, the program started, and ran without crashing or error messages but didn't behave as expected: 10 or 15 of these for different files, but only the first time I installed it. How come they didn't recur the second time?: "CRC error: The file C:\Program Files\... AHB)_1`2PF_P4.ddb doesn't match the file in the setup's .cab file. The medium from which you are running the setup may be corrupted; contact your software vendor." How can the file not match the .cab file? Isn't it extracted from the .cab file in the first place? If not, what is the .cab file for? This one only occurred once, or conceivably it was the other one that only occurred once and this one 10 to 15 times***. "Error 1904, Module C:\Windows\system32\msxml4.dll failed to register. HRESULT -2147023782. Contact your support personnel" AFAIC, you guys are my support personnel. What does registering entail? Can I register the file by hand. (It sounds like it's installed, just not registered. But if it's not even installed, maybe I can extract it by hand and move it to system 32? Or maybe even find a copy online? ***From two days ago, I thought it was reversed but the errors are listed in this order where I saved them. I found and dl'd another copy of the software and installed it again and this time I got one installation error message and then a fatal runtime error message" "This application has failed to start because tiswebapi.dll was not found. Re-installing the application may fix this problem." MSXML4 is available for download. If you've already installed this, there's probably an entry in your Add/Remove Programs. This is SP3 for MSXML4. https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/down....aspx?id=15697 Maybe I had this already, because it gave me a choice of Modify, Repair, or iirc Delete. I chose Repair. ******* Registering is described here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regsvr32 It's intended to identify the most recent version of a shared library or something. So it seems to me that even if this isn't done, the file is still in the library and it will work as well as its version works, so registering doesn't seem like a critical error. At any rate, I used the text in the wiki url you have given me and it registered with no trouble. ******* There's at least one other Toyota TechStream reported incident with tiswebapi.dll in here. http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums...eam-Activation https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...nown_bugs.html The second link seems to indicate this is a Java App ? Presumably so it can be multi-platform. Think of the extra fun that's going to add to the project. (Paul hates Java, because of the maintenance headaches it causes. Version hell plus potential security issues. But, we don't get a choice in the matter, if someone uses Java in a commercial program.) Well, I had Java, but this time I dl'd a slightly more recent version. ******* We have the same emissions regulations here. The emissions check is determined by "no illuminated check engine light". This LOL. means the owner has to clean up totally irrelevant codes before taking the car to be "inspected" for emissions. For example, my car was showing an intake manifold runner control error, and that has *no* effect on emissions. It affects acceleration. And my acceleration was not affected, even though there was a code. Modern cars are "run" by their catalytic converter, the fuel/air and oxygen sensors (the two sensors on the three-way cat are *not* identical). I think you know this, I'm learning. I have 4 sensors after all, and 3 cats. Two little cats, one for each bank, and a sensor both before and after each one. Of course there is a lot to be said for Don't shoot the messenger. (although sometimes they do fail, and I'd just replace them if the Sensor 1's weren't about $130 and the other two about $50. (I can reach 3 of them but not the 4th without a lift or crawling under the car, which I don't wan to do. There was for 20 years a DIY garage, but though they are still called Self-Service [garage], the reviews say they are not anymore. They were expensive) If the fuel/air sensor or 02 sensor gives a code, that might just mean that it found something wrong, not that it's broken. whereas I was searching the web like crazy to understand this. When work was done on my cat, the idiots *did not* replace both sensors. Which says they're not a matched set. Which is weird, when you consider how most sensors work. The ignition computer in your car, is trying to maintain a "stoichiometric fuel-air mixture". That's a long word. I've never seen a civilian use it before. This is richer than the most efficient operating point. You could run the car leaner, but it would result in different emissions numbers if you did so. The end result is, the car wastes gas, to give good CO2 and H2O output, without CO or NO2 or something like that. Yes, even if I can pass emissions (a year from now) Idon't want to waste gas, waste money, or pollute, and sometimes they claim that running with a code, some codes t hat is, can hurt the car. I don't know if this is true or if it's these codes. One effect that goes with a lean mixture is overheating, which coulc hurt the engine but mine is not overheating. Of course I haven't tried to climb the Blue Ridge Mountains yet (and don't plan to.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter I would take a quick whiff of the exhaust. If you smell gas, then the ignition computer is trying to make the mixture richer, and the sensors aren't tripping to stop it. The sensors seem to be a I'll do that. I bought a scan tool from harbor freight for $100, marked down to 80 because the cashier found me a $20 coupon, and it measures short term and long term fuel trimming, which is a measure of adjustments made in the how much gas is sprayed it. The long term should vary only slowly but the short term can vary several times a second, maybe from -1 to +1 (or 2 or more?) Instead my short term numbers are much higher, and the guy who did the safety inspection (unrelated to emissions) said that generally means a vacuum leak, and that the engine is sucking in air that doesn't go past the Mass Air Flow sensor, so iow it's "unmetered" and the computer doesn't know about it, but becuase of the air/fule sensor There is probably a better scan tool for $65 on Amazon, plus lots of others elsewhere. The one I bought doesn't display graphs, only varying numbers with 10 categories to a page or freeze frames. And it says it doesn't know about the air-fule sensors, only the 02, and it's the AF I want to know about. bang-bang controller, and don't really offer a "continuous" sensor output. Once a materials threshold is passed, the sensor changes state. This means the feedback loop "hunts" for the correct operating point, on a continuous basis. One of the materials in the cat, acts as an "oxygen reservoir", and that helps prevent instantaneous degradation of the cat. The oxygen reservoir recharges when the system "swings the other way". I'll have to read this again later. Didn't get this paragraph the first ime. The mechanics on my car, hardly seemed to care at all about how it worked. It seemed they were mainly interested in whether the check engine light would go off. I don't really know whether there's any actual calibration procedure available for those two stupid sensors. A lot of "trust" seems to be involved. The cars get more and more complicated, and I think I said 20 years ago that anyone smart enough to be a really good mechanic could make more money doing something else, and that's even more true now. . I think the only thing that keeps the really smart ones, who might have a comprehensive understanding, rather than a procedure, is that they like cars. Sort of like poets don't make much money but they like to be poets. But if you smelled gas, that would generally be bad. It might be OK to smell gas at startup, but once it's warm, it shouldn't be over-rich. I smell vehicles here all the time, with excessive gasoline emissions, and I know damn well there's no cat underneath their car. They install the cat only long enough to pass emissions. If you run a cat too rich, it'll go into runaway, and achieve an impressively high surface temperature. It will get hot enough, to glow like a light bulb, at night. I've seen one do it... The road was lit up, underneath a pickup truck with that problem. The noise sounds like a jet engine. Next time you go watch, call me. I asked the person doing my emissions, if they "check for cheating", and he indicated they don't look for mods. It's an honor system. That's not true everywhere. In Maryland I think they use the same kind of mirror that the US embassies use to look for bombs. If your check engine light does come on here, only a few garages have the older "actual" emissions systems check. Which slides over the exhaust pipe. Most garages have removed those, after the government "simplified" the requirements. Now the garage gets Ever since obd2 existed, 1996. money from the government, to "stare at your check engine light". ****, I could do that... Maybe you can get a job. Paul BTW, first thing I did was clean t he MAF sensor. it was definitely dirty. But I'm 95% sure it ran worse after that. Then I replaced the PCV valve, which was dirty and leaked. But that didn't help. The I added injector cleaner to the gas, but if that does anyting it will take days or weeks. Then I listened for a hiss and used propane to check for vacuum leak. No luck. Then I replaced the MAF sensor, which is very easy, but $85. Then I looked for vacuum leaks some more, using propane and later starting fluid. I was hoping to get more or better test equipment, including what the original post was about. (Although I don't even know what that software measure. I thought of buying the original toyota software, which is for sale for $55 for 2 days access, but, and I'm going to call them, it looks like I'd have to spend another 500 to get up and running. I would gladly spend the 55 because I've calculated that I will waste $59.80 on gasoline on this 2-week trip, and when I get back it might be too cold to work on the car. |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
micky wrote:
BTW, first thing I did was clean t he MAF sensor. it was definitely dirty. But I'm 95% sure it ran worse after that. Then I replaced the PCV valve, which was dirty and leaked. But that didn't help. The I added injector cleaner to the gas, but if that does anyting it will take days or weeks. Then I listened for a hiss and used propane to check for vacuum leak. No luck. Then I replaced the MAF sensor, which is very easy, but $85. Then I looked for vacuum leaks some more, using propane and later starting fluid. I was hoping to get more or better test equipment, including what the original post was about. (Although I don't even know what that software measure. I thought of buying the original toyota software, which is for sale for $55 for 2 days access, but, and I'm going to call them, it looks like I'd have to spend another 500 to get up and running. I would gladly spend the 55 because I've calculated that I will waste $59.80 on gasoline on this 2-week trip, and when I get back it might be too cold to work on the car. You should find a web page with more info about how Toyota does this stuff. This page has some electrical waveforms for the sensors, and at least for one sensor, you can see the bang-bang response. The sensor puts out a logic 0 or a logic 1 or a sort. Using the feedback, the ignition computer seeks to "center" the thing, based on the stream of 0's and 1's. The page also has some info about Toyota. http://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0430/ An example of another bang-bang controller, is the alternator, and the field winding on it. The voltage regulator is like a buzzer, that rapidly makes and breaks the field connection, so "on average" a certain amount of current flows in the field winding. This makes the alternator generate just enough power to (slightly) charge the battery, even if you're using accessories. If you turn on the headlights, the system voltage drops, the voltage regulator increases the duty cycle to the field winding, the car voltage pops up in response (compensating for the drain caused by the headlights). Just so you know that car makers have a fixation with bang-bang control loops. The cerium particles in the cat, help ensure that only the long term behavior of the car control loop matters. If you consistently ran the thing rich (ignition computer broken say), then eventually it's going to damage the catalytic converter. But for the time scale of the bang-bang behavior, where it hunts for a stoichiometric mixture, the catalyst is not hurt by very short timescale deviations from ideality. But if the control loop is not working properly (failed sensor), then be prepared to see an evil glow from underneath the car. My cat, one shop I got an estimate from, took me under the car and showed the casing on the cat had "started to weep". Condensation collects in there after the car is shut off. It eventually corrodes through the cat housing. And you can see marks on the outside of the cat, that attest to limited remaining life. Stuff like that, helps it fall off the car faster. As it was, the flange on the end of the cat was ruined, and we were discussing the possibility of welding the center pipe to the cat. But knowing how many maintenance procedures on the car, requiring lifting the engine off the mounts, I decided against that. I ended up getting a new cat ($$$) and center pipe ($$). And one new sensor ($), when the threads were too far gone on it to reuse it. There is a test that "speed shops" use, which is injection of propane into the air stream, as a means to see that the air fuel sensor is responding. I don't really know if my mechanic did such a test or not. After asking them a number of questions, I got the distinct impression they just wanted the Check Engine light to go off. Since the shop didn't have any Drive Clean equipment (to do emissions), they couldn't actually verify the CO or NOx coming from the pipe. My mechanics here, any procedure that doesn't turn over big money, they don't waste a bay on such equipment. For example, the body shop doesn't have wheel alignment equipment (so if you're in a crash, they send it out when it's time for that). (Only our tire shop, has a bay with the alignment rig on it.) And things like Drive Clean, they'd never make any money, if one bay in the shop was "wasted" on emissions checks. The good news about the system, is nobody gives a flying fig about the actual emissions (clever!). The bad news, is the "more money making indicator", the Check Engine light, pumps more money into the pockets at the garage. And that light could come on if your ashtray was too full. Paul |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Tue, 24 Oct 2017 23:56:40
-0400, micky wrote: I was hoping to get more or better test equipment, including what the original post was about. (Although I don't even know what that software measure. I thought of buying the original toyota software, which is for sale for $55 for 2 days access, but, and I'm going to call them, it I called, and for $55, you get to download and use the software for 2 days. After that, nothing. Or you can buy another 2 days, or a year for iirc a thousand. Plus you need a cable. The one I bought for $15 she didn't know about, of course, but if that doesn't work, I have to buy theirs for $400 or 480, and of course while waiting for it to come, the 2 days will expire. I said, Well, if I have to check in weekly, doesn't that mean I'd have a week before the software knew I hadn't done that, but she said that's for yearly customers and I would only get 2 days. This would be worth it for a small shop who could fix most cars and most toyotas without help, but when he had a hard one, he'd pay $55 and bill it to the customer, and he'd have all day for two days to work on the car, but I don't know what I'm doing so I have to think about it at night for a week or two, and I only work on the car at most 4 hours a day and only when the weather is good. And it's good now so I'm not going to read Paul's reply but I'm going outside to add another 2 cigarette lighters to the car, one of which will be on even when the car is off. And to put a remote button in the dash for the trunk release, so I won't have to use the fob all the time (and the fob won't work for some reason when the car is running). This should be simple but the wires are so hard to get to. There are supposed to be 4 conectors under the left kick panel, and there are 4 but one doesn't match any of the four and the fifth is way up there and I can't even see it. I'm going to cut open the sheath and find the wire in that, but I'm only 60% sure which of the two bundles of wires it is. I'm going to assume the sheath does't really do anything once the harness is installed. looks like I'd have to spend another 500 to get up and running. I would gladly spend the 55 because I've calculated that I will waste $59.80 on gasoline on this 2-week trip, and when I get back it might be too cold to work on the car. |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
micky wrote:
BTW, the guy at the shop said that even though the Short Term Fuel Trim changes a few times a second, the scan tool slows that down so you can look at it. Does that sound right? The guy was no dummy but I still like to check. If you punch in a few of the fine technical terms you're using, you can get more information on the topic. The good news I extract here, is the interface to this is in "Global OBDI II". http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...t-work-for-you "Global OBD-II fuel trim reporting was standardized for all manufacturers in 2005 and later models equipped with a CAN bus control system." In their screenshot of some PC display, it shows a polling interval there of once-a-second. I don't really know how many computer buses and what traffic they carry. If data for injector operation was on the bus, it would need a high temporal priority if injectors were actually operated that way. A lot of the stuff we see in these scanner articles, seems to be lower speed traffic. Computer buses can be single-master or multi-master. If you make a bus multi-master, and the computers sharing also have real time response requirements, the "inferior" master cannot chew up too much time on the bus, or the engine would hiccup. And in my small amount of scanner usage, I don't see any signs of that. Maybe tracking down more articles on CAN bus would highlight how it works, at the time scales involved. It's possible to make serial buses with a lot of wire to make the bus. You use slew rate limiting on the signals, so there isn't a huge problem with reflections on the bus. But don't expect the signaling rate, to be anywhere near what the buses in your PC are doing right now. For example, if they were running at 10MHz, that would be some sort of miracle. The closest example of that sort of bus speed, is RS422, which can run a fair distance, and would probably resist electrical interference a bit. And it is differential, so has some similarity to RS422. Just the length of the article, tells you it's more sophisticated. You're going to "burn out a pair of reading glasses" on this stuff :-) This article doesn't even delve into the frequencies used. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus This article says CANbus can do 1Mbit/sec over 40 meters of wire. That will give some idea just how many messages can travel a second over it. Divide message length into 1Mbit to get some idea of the messages per second possible. http://canlab.cz/pages/download/canhard.pdf So your short term fuel trim, could be limited by how many calculations per second the processor working it out, can do. As long as time-sensitive bus traffic can get through, there's probably a lot of bus bandwidth left over for a scanner (and it's processor) to make queries. Paul |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Wed, 25 Oct 2017 21:56:25
-0400, micky wrote: Well, all over Ebay there are $15 versions of this, with cables that have rather complicated circuits in the obd2 plug (and an usb plug on the other end) plus they include software, Some of them have clear plastic cases, and some ads show the circuit board directly, without the case, and it's got a lot of parts. Here is one of the many Elm... things I was talking about: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...B&gclsrc=aw.ds Newegg doesn't sell crap, or pirated stuff, does it? And yet the hardware is only $10. I have the webpage for the free software, but I'll have to look for it. Don't even remember the name at the moment. Here's one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Hain-Version-...rds=elm327+usb $15 but it includes the free software. These are the USB model but there is also bluetooth and wifi. (There is also something entirely different that uses bluetooth and your smartphone as the monitor.) As you can see below, it shows 02 values, which are important to me right now, but like with all of them, I don't know if they are including the Air/fuel ratio sensor among the 02 sensors. Some seem to call the first by the second's name, but a vendor might rely on the difference to not show air/fuel and say, "Well, we said we show 02, not air/fuel.". One person I read was bothered by this line "Please unload your virus protector first when you install the software.If you have any questions about it,please email us." What do you think? ============= ELM327 USB Interface V1.5 work on PC OBD-II Software for ELM327 USB is a free program that allows you to use your PC and a hardware interface to get the information from your car's computer. The program is very user-friendly, and easy to learn. It is also very easy to install: simply extract the files into a folder on your computer's hard drive, and you're ready to go. To uninstall the program, simply delete the entire contents of the folder where the program resides. The program lets you perform the following operations: 1. Read diagnostic trouble codes, both generic and manufacturer-specific, and display their meaning (over 3000 generic code definitions in the database). 2. Clear trouble codes and turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light) 3. Display current sensor data, including: 4. Engine RPM 5. Calculated Load Value 6. Coolant Temperature 7. Fuel System Status 8. Vehicle Speed 9. Short Term Fuel Trim 10. Long Term Fuel Trim 11. Intake Manifold Pressure 12. Timing Advance 13. Intake Air Temperature 14. Air Flow Rate 15. Absolute Throttle Position 16. Oxygen sensor voltages/associated short term fuel trims 17. Fuel System status 18. Fuel Pressure AND Many others... Featu Data graphing and logging Freeze Frame data Continuous and Non-Continuous Oxygen Sensor test results ELM327 Free softwa 1. G-M Mode 22 Scan Tool by Terry 2. OBD Gauge for PalmOS and Pocket PC by Dana Peters 3. OBD Logger by Jonathan Senkerik 4. OBD-II ScanMaster by Wladimir Gurskij (ScanMaster 3.52 - local copy) 5. obd2crazy.com 6. OBD2 Scantool by Ivan Andrewjeski 7. OBDII for ELM322 by David Huffman 8. pyOBD by Donour Sizemore for MacOSX and Linux 9. RDDTC by Pete Calinski 10. Real Scan by Brent Harris 11. ScanTest for Pocket PC by Ivan Ganev aka a-ser 12. wOBD by WDT Vechicle Coverage: Works on almost OBD2 Vehicles (1996 onwards in USA) and EOBD vehicles ( Petrol cars from 2001 and diesel cars from 2003/2004 in Europe) For your information: For your vehicle to be OBD II compliant it must have a 16-pin DLC (Data Link Connector) under the dash and the Vehicle Emission Control Information Label must state that the vehicle is OBD II compliant. Al fa Romeo/ Audi/ Bentley/ B M W/ Cadillac/ Chevrolet/ Chrysler/ Citroen/ Daewoo/ Fiat/ Ford/ G-M/ Hon da/ Hyundai/ Isuzu/ Jaguar/ Jeep/ Kia/ Land Rover/ Lexus/ Mazda/ Mercury/ Mini/ Nissan/ Mitsubishi/ Opel/ Peugeot/ Porsche/ Renault/ Rover/ Saab/ Seat/ Skoda/ Toyota/ Vauxhall/ Volvo/ VW ELM 327 Software Included: Scantool_net113win EasyOBDII V2.2 OBD2Spy ScanMaster-ELM wOBDCRAZY Packing List: 1 x ELM327 Main Unit 1 x Software CD The program lets you perform the following operations: Windows 2000/XP/ ============= |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
micky wrote:
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Wed, 25 Oct 2017 21:56:25 -0400, micky wrote: Well, all over Ebay there are $15 versions of this, with cables that have rather complicated circuits in the obd2 plug (and an usb plug on the other end) plus they include software, Some of them have clear plastic cases, and some ads show the circuit board directly, without the case, and it's got a lot of parts. Here is one of the many Elm... things I was talking about: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...B&gclsrc=aw.ds Newegg doesn't sell crap, or pirated stuff, does it? And yet the hardware is only $10. I have the webpage for the free software, but I'll have to look for it. Don't even remember the name at the moment. Here's one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Hain-Version-...rds=elm327+usb $15 but it includes the free software. These are the USB model but there is also bluetooth and wifi. (There is also something entirely different that uses bluetooth and your smartphone as the monitor.) As you can see below, it shows 02 values, which are important to me right now, but like with all of them, I don't know if they are including the Air/fuel ratio sensor among the 02 sensors. Some seem to call the first by the second's name, but a vendor might rely on the difference to not show air/fuel and say, "Well, we said we show 02, not air/fuel.". One person I read was bothered by this line "Please unload your virus protector first when you install the software.If you have any questions about it,please email us." What do you think? ============= ELM327 USB Interface V1.5 work on PC OBD-II Software for ELM327 USB is a free program that allows you to use your PC and a hardware interface to get the information from your car's computer. The program is very user-friendly, and easy to learn. It is also very easy to install: simply extract the files into a folder on your computer's hard drive, and you're ready to go. To uninstall the program, simply delete the entire contents of the folder where the program resides. The program lets you perform the following operations: 1. Read diagnostic trouble codes, both generic and manufacturer-specific, and display their meaning (over 3000 generic code definitions in the database). 2. Clear trouble codes and turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light) 3. Display current sensor data, including: 4. Engine RPM 5. Calculated Load Value 6. Coolant Temperature 7. Fuel System Status 8. Vehicle Speed 9. Short Term Fuel Trim 10. Long Term Fuel Trim 11. Intake Manifold Pressure 12. Timing Advance 13. Intake Air Temperature 14. Air Flow Rate 15. Absolute Throttle Position 16. Oxygen sensor voltages/associated short term fuel trims 17. Fuel System status 18. Fuel Pressure AND Many others... Featu Data graphing and logging Freeze Frame data Continuous and Non-Continuous Oxygen Sensor test results ELM327 Free softwa 1. G-M Mode 22 Scan Tool by Terry 2. OBD Gauge for PalmOS and Pocket PC by Dana Peters 3. OBD Logger by Jonathan Senkerik 4. OBD-II ScanMaster by Wladimir Gurskij (ScanMaster 3.52 - local copy) 5. obd2crazy.com 6. OBD2 Scantool by Ivan Andrewjeski 7. OBDII for ELM322 by David Huffman 8. pyOBD by Donour Sizemore for MacOSX and Linux 9. RDDTC by Pete Calinski 10. Real Scan by Brent Harris 11. ScanTest for Pocket PC by Ivan Ganev aka a-ser 12. wOBD by WDT Vechicle Coverage: Works on almost OBD2 Vehicles (1996 onwards in USA) and EOBD vehicles ( Petrol cars from 2001 and diesel cars from 2003/2004 in Europe) For your information: For your vehicle to be OBD II compliant it must have a 16-pin DLC (Data Link Connector) under the dash and the Vehicle Emission Control Information Label must state that the vehicle is OBD II compliant. Al fa Romeo/ Audi/ Bentley/ B M W/ Cadillac/ Chevrolet/ Chrysler/ Citroen/ Daewoo/ Fiat/ Ford/ G-M/ Hon da/ Hyundai/ Isuzu/ Jaguar/ Jeep/ Kia/ Land Rover/ Lexus/ Mazda/ Mercury/ Mini/ Nissan/ Mitsubishi/ Opel/ Peugeot/ Porsche/ Renault/ Rover/ Saab/ Seat/ Skoda/ Toyota/ Vauxhall/ Volvo/ VW ELM 327 Software Included: Scantool_net113win EasyOBDII V2.2 OBD2Spy ScanMaster-ELM wOBDCRAZY Packing List: 1 x ELM327 Main Unit 1 x Software CD The program lets you perform the following operations: Windows 2000/XP/ ============= https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ELM327 It's a PIC microcontroller, translating something from CAN bus, into USB. The PIC microcontroller can be pretty cheap. The article even mentions data rates :-) 500Kbit/sec. ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID, 500 kbit/s) There shouldn't be a problem with grounding, as the car is electrically floating while you're working on it, and your laptop doesn't have any other sneak paths. It might be different if you were using a desktop next to the car, and were doing some other tricky wiring to the car. For example, when I replaced the battery in my car, I made a "holder" power source, to take the place of the battery. By clipping that onto the battery cables, it provided power so the CD player wouldn't need to be reset (or whatever). Worked a treat. I used a DC power source and a diode, to isolate it, so the car battery can't blow my Frankenstein gadget to hell :-) That would be an example of a potential way to cause a grounding problem, to a car that was otherwise "floating" electrically. Paul |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages? (now OT: CANbus)
In message , Paul
writes: [] It's a PIC microcontroller, translating something from CAN bus, into USB. The PIC microcontroller can be pretty cheap. The article even mentions data rates :-) 500Kbit/sec. ISO 15765-4 CAN (29 bit ID, 500 kbit/s) [] I recently worked in this area. CAN works at various speeds - 50k, 83333, 100, 125, 250, 500, 1M, and probably a few others I've forgotten about - though any one bus will operate at only one speed. As a very rough rule, I would normally try 500k first for dashboards: if they had two CANbuses, one would be 500k and one 100 or 125. (I never saw a 1M one.) 250 wasn't uncommon either. 50k tended to be used in earlier models, including the ones that used a single-wire variant (normal CAN is two-wire, differential). -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Who can refute a sneer? - Archdeacon Paley, in his book Moral Philosophy |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In message , micky
writes: [] So I got corsage pin (I've lost all my hat pins) and ran it through the insulation of the first wire, the thinner of the two, and connected it to a voltmeter and then opened the trunk. Each time I'd see a short pulse in the digital meter up to iirc 12 volts, but interestingly, it would follow the sound of the trunk release by a half second. The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. An old-fashioned moving coil (i. e. pointer) meter would serve you better. Or, if you're going to do this sort of thing a lot, an LED (with series resistor) - or, a small loudspeaker (most definitely with series resistor!); the latter has the advantage that you don't have to look at it. (Actually, I'm a great believer in "listening" in this way to such signals: one can become familiar with the sound of various signals, both when well and when poorly. Though I've never actually listened to CAN.) To check your meter's response time, just connect it to something you know is 12V and back again to 0V a few times - and watch how quickly (or not) it gets there. Half a second isn't unusual for a DMM. Then it got dark and slightly cold. (-: But I'm almost done. Maybe I can finish tomorrow. [] -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Who can refute a sneer? - Archdeacon Paley, in his book Moral Philosophy |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message , micky writes: The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. That's probably the old dual slope meters. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrating_ADC The fastest multimeter I ever used, did 1000 measurements a second. I think the instrument was designed as part of a "bar bet". As users didn't typically run the instrument at that high of a sampling rate. (There were a number of rates available.) You got one extra digit of accuracy, if you ran it at the 1 sample per second rate, which is mostly how it was used. Paul |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In message , Paul
writes: J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote: In message , micky writes: The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. That's probably the old dual slope meters. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrating_ADC I think that's still the commonest mechanism used in digital readouts .. The fastest multimeter I ever used, did 1000 measurements a second. I think the instrument was designed as part of a "bar bet". As users didn't typically run the instrument at that high of a sampling rate. (There were a number of rates available.) You got one extra digit of accuracy, if you ran it at the 1 sample per second rate, which is mostly how it was used. Paul ... because it's good for high precision, and if the display is digital, the using human can't perceive changes faster than a few times a second (especially where it's fluctuating about a point that changes most of the digits, e. g. 12.9 to 13 volts)*. Certainly, a 1000Hz sampling rate wouldn't be of any practical _use_ - if you're just looking at the readout. If it's being _logged_ (or possibly if the display is a waveform type, i. e. oscilloscope-like), then that's a different matter. * I am reminded of a story which may or may not be apocryphal: that when digital meters were introduced into some process - I think it was the manufacture of resistors, in the days when they were made and then measured to see which bin to put them into, rather than being precision-made as they are now - productivity plummeted, to the displeasure of the workers who were on piecework. The reason being that the workers had become adept at looking at how a moving-coil meter was moving and could predict where it would settle long before it did - but could not do the same with a digital readout. -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf computers don't solve problems; they help humans solve problems - Colin Barker, Computing 1999-2-18, p. 21 |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 10:35:50
+0100, "J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote: In message , micky writes: [] So I got [a] corsage pin (I've lost all my hat pins) and ran it through the insulation of the first wire, the thinner of the two, and connected it to a voltmeter and then opened the trunk. Each time I'd see a short pulse in the digital meter up to iirc 12 volts, but interestingly, it would follow the sound of the trunk release by a half second. The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. Wow. I didn't know thst but now I do. I guess when I've measured stable voltages or resistances, I'm not in a hurry and if it takes time, I don't notice. Or my eyes are on the test leads and I don't even look at the meter until I get them in place. An old-fashioned moving coil (i. e. pointer) meter would I have a few of those, but I tend to use the $3 Harbor Freight meter, especially on the car, because it's no fragile like a needle meter, it's smaller and lighter than older meters, and if it gets dirty or broken, it's no big loss. 30 years ago I left a meter on the engine and drove for days before I opened the hood. I think one of the test leads was still there, and that's why I remembered the rest had been It was a cheap meter too, but analog. serve you better. Or, if you're going to do this sort of thing a lot, an LED (with series resistor) - or, a small loudspeaker (most definitely with series resistor!); the latter has the advantage that you don't have to look at it. I hadn't thought of thse things. (Actually, I'm a great believer in "listening" in this way to such signals: one can become familiar with the sound of various signals, both when well and when poorly. Though I've never actually listened to CAN.) This is just the trunk release voltage, straight 12 volts. To elaborate, the trunk has no keyhole and the only way to open it up is with the fob or with the lever by the front seat (which because this is a convertible and you don't want someone climbing over the door or the trunk and opening the trunk when you're not there, in 2005 the lever can be locked (unlike 2000, when the remedy was to disable it inside the trunk)). But the fob is designed to not work when the keys are in the ignition. So if the fob breaks you have to unlock the lever and use that (and the fob did break in my 2000 Toyota, but then the trunk had a keyhole). Other cars have a button on the dash but this one didn't have that. To check your meter's response time, just connect it to something you know is 12V and back again to 0V a few times - and watch how quickly (or not) it gets there. Half a second isn't unusual for a DMM. I'll do that. Then it got dark and slightly cold. (-: But I'm almost done. Maybe I can finish tomorrow. [] |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In message , micky
writes: In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 10:35:50 +0100, "J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote: In message , micky writes: [] So I got [a] corsage pin (I've lost all my hat pins) and ran it through the insulation of the first wire, the thinner of the two, and connected it to a voltmeter and then opened the trunk. Each time I'd see a short pulse in the digital meter up to iirc 12 volts, but interestingly, it would follow the sound of the trunk release by a half second. The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. Another thought has just occurred to me, especially as you said you didn't think the thin wire you found could carry the current (15A, I think you said!) to operate the boot release [I'm in UK (-:]: could it be a telltale, i. e. a signal _back_ to the controller that confirms that the release _has_ operated? (So that, if the tellback signal has not been received, maybe the controller sends another pulse, or lights a fault light, or something?) Or, it could just feed a relay. [] serve you better. Or, if you're going to do this sort of thing a lot, an LED (with series resistor) - or, a small loudspeaker (most definitely with series resistor!); the latter has the advantage that you don't have to look at it. I hadn't thought of thse things. (Actually, I'm a great believer in "listening" in this way to such signals: one can become familiar with the sound of various That would certainly confirm whether the signal you found is the right one ... [] This is just the trunk release voltage, straight 12 volts. To .... in that, if it is, you'd hear the click from the speaker at the same time as (or _possibly_ a split second before) you hear the boot release. elaborate, the trunk has no keyhole and the only way to open it up is with the fob or with the lever by the front seat (which because this is a convertible and you don't want someone climbing over the door or the trunk and opening the trunk when you're not there, in 2005 the lever can Hmm, I wouldn't have thought of that problem! A keylock is more failsafe though (-: be locked (unlike 2000, when the remedy was to disable it inside the trunk)). But the fob is designed to not work when the keys are in the Good idea - you don't really want the boot opening when you're moving. ignition. So if the fob breaks you have to unlock the lever and use that (and the fob did break in my 2000 Toyota, but then the trunk had a keyhole). Other cars have a button on the dash but this one didn't have that. (One of the many things putting me off buying a modern car is those fobs. Another thing to go wrong, and cost an arm and a leg if you have to replace them. [And can be hacked.]) [] -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf How do you govern a country that seems to have decided that facts are the work of the devil? - Andy Hamilton on HIGNFY, 2010 |
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Installation problems: Flash drive? Error messages?
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 21:40:52
+0100, "J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote: In message , micky writes: In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 10:35:50 +0100, "J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote: In message , micky writes: [] So I got [a] corsage pin (I've lost all my hat pins) and ran it through the insulation of the first wire, the thinner of the two, and connected it to a voltmeter and then opened the trunk. Each time I'd see a short pulse in the digital meter up to iirc 12 volts, but interestingly, it would follow the sound of the trunk release by a half second. The keyword there is "digital"; most digital meters are quite slow, ranging from one reading every two or three seconds, up to maybe four times a second. Another thought has just occurred to me, especially as you said you didn't think the thin wire you found could carry the current (15A, I think you said!) to operate the boot release [I'm in UK (-:]: could it be a telltale, i. e. a signal _back_ to the controller that confirms that the release _has_ operated? (So that, if the tellback signal has not been received, maybe the controller sends another pulse, or lights a fault light, or something?) Well, all the wires in my previous Toyota, and this one, seem thin compared to wires in GM and Chrysler cars, althought part of that could be that the insulation is thinner, not the rubbery stuff I was used to through 1995, but thinner "plastic". Anyhow, it's all working now so it definitely was the power wire. I measured the current a couple times before connecting it up, and using the cheapest of the cheap digital VOM's it was about 1.8 amps the first time, but only 0.8 amps the second time, I don't know why. But it does have a 10 amp fuse I'm pretty sure. Or, it could just feed a relay. No relay. I have the wiring diagram, so I know what's at and near the trunk. I have to guess at one is in the verious contriol modules. [] serve you better. Or, if you're going to do this sort of thing a lot, an LED (with series resistor) - or, a small loudspeaker (most definitely with series resistor!); the latter has the advantage that you don't have to look at it. I hadn't thought of thse things. (Actually, I'm a great believer in "listening" in this way to such signals: one can become familiar with the sound of various That would certainly confirm whether the signal you found is the right one ... [] This is just the trunk release voltage, straight 12 volts. To ... in that, if it is, you'd hear the click from the speaker at the same time as (or _possibly_ a split second before) you hear the boot release. elaborate, the trunk has no keyhole and the only way to open it up is with the fob or with the lever by the front seat (which because this is a convertible and you don't want someone climbing over the door or the trunk and opening the trunk when you're not there, in 2005 the lever can Hmm, I wouldn't have thought of that problem! A keylock is more failsafe though (-: No kidding. The right side door has no keyhole either and just tonight I couldn't unlock it with the power lock button, or the remote control -- it would move in the direction of unlock but get stuck 1/2 of the way there -- or the unlock "button" on the door itself. Finally I was able to lock it fully with that button (more like a wide rocker, painted red on one side) and then unlock it with the inside door handle. be locked (unlike 2000, when the remedy was to disable it inside the trunk)). But the fob is designed to not work when the keys are in the Good idea - you don't really want the boot opening when you're moving. ignition. So if the fob breaks you have to unlock the lever and use that (and the fob did break in my 2000 Toyota, but then the trunk had a keyhole). Other cars have a button on the dash but this one didn't have that. (One of the many things putting me off buying a modern car is those fobs. Another thing to go wrong, and cost an arm and a leg if you have to replace them. [And can be hacked.]) They're not so expensive anymore. Both for a 2004 Chrysler and the 2005 Toyota, the keys were about 2 for $16, and then 5 or 6 dollars each to get cut, and free to program. There is even a $15 device for Toyotas and maybe for other cars that iiuc says it will make a key when you have lost all of them. I was going to use it because it also says it goes quicker, but a few people got confused and had trouble so I decided to do it the harder way, which wasn't so hard at all. "FICBOX Vehicle OBD II OBDII OBD2 All in1 Programmer 4D CHIP and Smart Key Maker Keymaker For Toyota Lexus " The Chrysler keys didn't say this but the Amazon ad for the Toyota keys said, and an a piece of paper that came with the keys said, that they had to be programmed by a locksmith or dealer, but it's not true. It was easy. And the fobs were $17 each (11 for the Chrysler), and free to program. But you're right about breaking. Both fobs for the previous Toyota broke at the same time (and they still worked with the demo thing at the auto parts store) so I figured it was the receiver. First Toyota is ridiculous about hiding screws so I had to take out the console to get to the screws that held whatever is in front of the receiver. I replace it 2 or 3 times from ones I bought on Ebay and none worked. New the part was $350 or 400. But at least that car had keyholes in the left and right doors and the trunk lid. |
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