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Power Cable



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 16th 19, 12:30 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Chris Jenkins
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default Power Cable

Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.

Thank you.


Ads
  #2  
Old March 16th 19, 01:49 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
nospam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Power Cable

In article , Chris Jenkins
wrote:

Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.


the specs say 9v/0.6a:
https://static.tp-link.com/res/down/doc/TL-WR841N_V10_Datasheet.pdf

here's one:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TP-Li...2A1-Wireless/d
p/B01LWKRVL0
  #3  
Old March 16th 19, 01:49 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
nospam
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Power Cable

In article , Wolf K
wrote:

Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.



I've often found cables and power adapters etc at 2nd hand shops.


but not necessarily the correct voltage/amperage.
  #4  
Old March 16th 19, 02:16 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
lonelydad
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39
Default Power Cable

nospam wrote in
:

In article , Chris Jenkins
wrote:

Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/...841N.html#over
view

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is
dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I
have tried using a cable from other router.


the specs say 9v/0.6a:
https://static.tp-link.com/res/down/doc/TL-WR841N_V10_Datasheet.pdf

here's one:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TP-Li...-2A1-Wireless/
d p/B01LWKRVL0

All of the ones on that page are US 120v plugs. If Amazon UK does not
handle a comparable power supply you will probably have to obtain some
sort of adapter to make the plugs match.

If you don't order that one, you will want to check your current power
supply to see if the plug is tip positive or tip negative. It seems that
on most of the 9v power supplies I checked the plug is 5.5mmx2.1mm. If
you are going to wander the brick and mortar stores you will probably
want to take the old one with you so you can check to make sure the plug
matches.

How is the current cable damaged? If it got kinked or nicked, you can
always just cut the cable before that spot and add a new plug. The
replacement plug will be either 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 5.5mm x 2.5mm. You might
want to take a micrometer to the socket to see if it is 2.1 or 2.5, and
watch the polarity when wiring in the new plug.

Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section
out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can
preserve the right polarity, stagger the splices to keep the connection
from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the
splice.
  #6  
Old March 16th 19, 02:48 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
pjp[_10_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,157
Default Power Cable

In article ,
says...

nospam wrote in
:

In article , Chris Jenkins
wrote:

Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/...841N.html#over
view

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is
dodgy or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I
have tried using a cable from other router.


the specs say 9v/0.6a:
https://static.tp-link.com/res/down/doc/TL-WR841N_V10_Datasheet.pdf

here's one:
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-TP-Li...-2A1-Wireless/
d p/B01LWKRVL0

All of the ones on that page are US 120v plugs. If Amazon UK does not
handle a comparable power supply you will probably have to obtain some
sort of adapter to make the plugs match.

If you don't order that one, you will want to check your current power
supply to see if the plug is tip positive or tip negative. It seems that
on most of the 9v power supplies I checked the plug is 5.5mmx2.1mm. If
you are going to wander the brick and mortar stores you will probably
want to take the old one with you so you can check to make sure the plug
matches.

How is the current cable damaged? If it got kinked or nicked, you can
always just cut the cable before that spot and add a new plug. The
replacement plug will be either 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 5.5mm x 2.5mm. You might
want to take a micrometer to the socket to see if it is 2.1 or 2.5, and
watch the polarity when wiring in the new plug.

Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section
out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can
preserve the right polarity, stagger the splices to keep the connection
from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the
splice.


I use more than one spliced together cord or new end etc. No heat shrink
though just tape
  #7  
Old March 16th 19, 04:16 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Mark Lloyd[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,416
Default Power Cable

On 3/15/19 8:16 PM, lonelydad wrote:

[snip]

All of the ones on that page are US 120v plugs. If Amazon UK does not
handle a comparable power supply you will probably have to obtain some
sort of adapter to make the plugs match.


A lot of the newer ones accept 100V-240V. You just need a plug adapter
rather than a voltage converter.

[snip]

Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section
out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can
preserve the right polarity,


Most of them (at least the 2-wire flat ones) are already marked,
although that can be hard to see. The insulation around one wire is
rougher than around the other.

stagger the splices to keep the connection
from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the
splice.



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The feet of progress have always been shod by doubt." [Lemuel K.
Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And Other Essays_]
  #8  
Old March 16th 19, 04:26 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Mark Lloyd[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,416
Default Power Cable

On 3/15/19 8:16 PM, lonelydad wrote:

[snip]

Or, if the damage is in the middle of the cord, just cut the bad section
out and reattach the two ends. Mark one edge of the cord first so you can
preserve the right polarity, stagger the splices to keep the connection
from getting to big, and use some heat shrink tubing to protect the
splice.


One possible alternative to marking is to fix one wire at a time.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The feet of progress have always been shod by doubt." [Lemuel K.
Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And Other Essays_]
  #9  
Old March 16th 19, 04:50 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Paul in Houston TX[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 899
Default Power Cable

Chris Jenkins wrote:
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.

Thank you.


Ebay.
9v, 0.6 amp or more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-AC-DC-Ad...AOSwTc5cCeC k

  #10  
Old March 16th 19, 06:32 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
😉 Good Guy 😉
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 519
Default Power Cable

On 15/03/2019 23:30, Chris Jenkins wrote:
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.

Thank you.



Amazon-UK has the same router with power cable included!!!!!!!!! It is
priced at £15. are you in the EU?

You should avoid buying from American sites as their power plugs are
different. Make sure you have the correct plugs for the EU or UK.



--
With over 950 million devices now running Windows 10, customer
satisfaction is higher than any previous version of windows.

  #11  
Old March 16th 19, 10:51 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Herbie[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default Power Cable

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 22:50:16 -0500, Paul in Houston TX
wrote:

Chris Jenkins wrote:
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.

Thank you.


Ebay.
9v, 0.6 amp or more.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-AC-DC-Ad...AOSwTc5cCeC k


Amazon UK @ 7.49. UK plug

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MyVolts-ada.../dp/B00QB5Z6YS

--
Herbie.
  #12  
Old March 16th 19, 11:51 AM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
wasbit[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 141
Default Power Cable

"Chris Jenkins" wrote in message
...
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview

The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.


Look on the existing power adaptor, sometimes call a wall wart, for the
voltage, amps & polarity. It will be either on a label or moulded into the
plastic.
Then measure the connector.
Metric drill bits can be used as a guide to both the external & internal
sizes. Without digital or dial calipers it's hard to differentiate between
2.1 & 2.5 mm for example.
I've not seen any connectors in Imperial sizes
This will give you the specs to look for.

--
Regards
wasbit

  #13  
Old March 16th 19, 12:57 PM posted to alt.comp.os.windows-10
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,733
Default Power Cable

wasbit wrote:
"Chris Jenkins" wrote in message
...
Does anybody know where can I buy a power cable for this router? Or
even a good substitute for it. How do I find one?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/products/details/cat-9_TL-WR841N.html#overview


The power cable of my router is damaged and so the connection is dodgy
or does not connect at all. The router is quite good because I have
tried using a cable from other router.


Look on the existing power adaptor, sometimes call a wall wart, for the
voltage, amps & polarity. It will be either on a label or moulded into
the plastic.
Then measure the connector.
Metric drill bits can be used as a guide to both the external & internal
sizes. Without digital or dial calipers it's hard to differentiate
between 2.1 & 2.5 mm for example.
I've not seen any connectors in Imperial sizes
This will give you the specs to look for.


The OP hasn't made clear whether it's the barrel end
which is ruined, or it's the wire. The wire can
be repaired. It helps to have wire strippers,
but those take practice (only the mechanical ones with
the two jaw sets, automate the whole stripping process
and take the guesswork out of it). The cheapest
strippers with the yellow handles, require
practice so you won't knick the wire strands.
In a pinch, you can use a razor blade, but that
is very fiddly.

This is my calculator adapter, repaired 40 years ago.
The wires are soldered so they won't come apart. The
"tubes" over the wire are shrinkwrap (Polyolefin tubing),
which is selected to be 2x the diameter of the wire,
so it can be slid over. Shrinkwrap is available as transparent
or as colored tubing. The heat stream above the
soldering iron is used to heat the tubing until it
shrinks to half its size (try not to touch the soldering
iron to the tubing). Unlike electrical tape, this stuff
doesn't come off during a warm summer day. It can be
cut off with precision stainless steel scissors
(longitudinally) if you need to remove the tubing later.

https://i.postimg.cc/1tYd1GXg/cats-l...bbery-wire.jpg

As another poster suggested, if I was doing this today,
I would "offset" the two joins, so they aren't beside
one another. This helps "smooth out" the stiffest
part of the repair. I've also slid an additional
larger diameter shrink wrap over the whole thing,
to keep the two conductors from getting snagged
on something. But that makes the wire stiffer
still, and encourages bending breaks near either
end.

I gave up on electrical tape for this eons ago.
Electrical tape sucks.

You don't have to solder the stranded wire.
You could twist it together tightly. But the
polyolefin tubing is ideal for doing a nice
job, and for keeping your twisted wire from
coming apart. So the polyolefin tubing is still
an essential part of the job.

There are cheesy sellers all over the place selling
it for too much. About $3 should buy around a 3 foot
piece of a single diameter. And that still leaves
plenty of profit for the seller. I could find
some for $17, which is outrageous. You want to
see this in the store, to ensure the cut pieces
these idiots provide, are not too short.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gar...lam/1000843469

One of the reasons I have so many diameters of polyolefin
tubing, is from mis-estimating the diameter required
for a given job. Take some care, before concluding
you've got the right one, to get a good fit when
shrunk. You don't have to shrink them, but they
slide around otherwise, and won't cover the copper and
prevent a short circuit from happening.

And shrinking them with a match or a lighter is
just asking for trouble. Remember that the cat-chewy
wire insulation on the original wire, *melts* at
less than the polyolefin. Applying a match will make
one big gooey mess. If you're cutting away a cat-chewed
section anyway, you can practice your shrinking attempts
on that piece of wire, to get some idea how much heat
it will take. Even if the tubing only shrinks 10% or
15%, that's better than nothing.

I love cheating the landfill, and I've repaired
more than one adapter this way. You get better with
practice. I remember ruining my first soldering gun
while repairing stuff (p.s. *don't* buy a soldering
gun, only buy a soldering iron, as it'll last you
a long time - the guns are "duty-cycle limited"
and exceeding the ON-time, ruins them).

Paul
 




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