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#16
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Mark Twain wrote:
Hello Paul, How would I carry the file from the 8200 to the 8500? Also the 8200 is 32 bit and the 8500 is 64bit. Wouldn't that present some problems? Thanks, Robert Presents no problem at all. "Burning an ISO" is just "Burning an ISO" Install the burning software, and use it. ******* There are two ways to get a file from the 8200 to the 8500 1) Windows File sharing. 2) Use a USB Flash drive ($5 to $20 or so). If you had three disk drives a) Boot drive for 8200 b) Boot drive for 8500 c) Data drive with movies on it you could move the third drive, the data drive, from one machine to the other. That's if you did not want to run out and buy a USB flash drive. You could move a hard drive, one containing "rescue.iso" on it, to the other machine by hand. It's a crappy solution, but its free (as long as you have a spare hard drive). The other issue, is the 8200 might have USB 1.1 and only transfer files at 1 megabyte per second. If you use the USB flash key in such a case, it will take a bit more than three minutes to put the 200MB rescue.iso file on the USB stick. I have an old Apple G4 Macintosh like this, and using the USB 1.1 port on that machine is extremely annoying. But the machine does have a good DVD burner in it. ******* General rules of thumb for Windows file sharing. 1) Set the value of workgroup = "WORKGROUP" All machines should belong to the same fake domain. 2) Use user accounts having the same userid and password. That's in case you receive a password prompt. For example, if one machine has userid "Bob" and the other machine has "Robert", that's not the best setup possible. It takes some forethought, someone warning you about this, to make the best account choices when first setting up a computer. A few of my machines having the same account, was purely an accident on my part. I never planned ahead for this. Setting up file sharing is a pain in the ass. Microsoft has tried to fix this on more modern OSes, with HomeGroup, but since people don't normally have machines uniformly with exactly the same OS release loaded on the, it's pretty hard to use that as an option. What works, if one machine is Windows 7 and the other is WinXP, is to use Workgroup. And since I've had a fair amount of trouble (on occasion) getting this stuff to work, I can't honestly promote file sharing as a solution for everyone. My last remaining problem here with it, is certain from-to paths not running at consistent speeds. Sometimes moving a file from A - B happens at 20MB/sec, while B - A runs at 80MB/sec (on a GbE network). And I can't figure out what is wrong with it. But at least I can still copy stuff. Frequently, if I'm moving a terabyte of data, I can't afford for it to run at 20MB/sec, and that makes the bug really really annoying, whatever it is. (I end up walking the disk drive over to the other computer.) If WinPCAP is running, capturing packets, magically the transfer rate doubles to 40MB/sec, which is a hint as to the nature of the bug. I just don't know what it means. So while you can attempt to set up Windows File Sharing for yourself, I won't always be able to supply the right helpful hints to fixing it. I have enough trouble myself. Paul |
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#17
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Paul wrote:
Ken Blake, MVP wrote: On Wed, 27 May 2015 00:46:36 -0400, Paul wrote: These are the ones I have. I only have small quantities (small cake boxes). CD-R Only write them once (cannot erase) CD-RW Erase and rewrite DVD+RW Erase and rewrite Personally I avoid RW disks, and have only CDRs and DVD+Rs. They are not only less expensive than RWs, but in my experience they are considerably more reliable. This was true at one time. I had Memorex CD-RW from the old days, that had a serious bit-rot problem. I have had lots of RW media since that time, some of which has been erased a handful of times, and it's still good media. So I no longer have "RW anxiety" here. The stuff seems to be working. Paul I feel/felt the same way as Ken did about the R/W's. But even recordable DVD's have problems: I had a couple of Memorex DVD-R's that over several years became unreadable, and for one of them, you could even see the dye color had changed! My question is: at this point in time, is there really much need for DVD-R's or DVD+R's (or even CDs, for that matter)? We have USB flash thumb drives that are so cheap now (especially for DVD sizes), much faster, and (seemingly) have better life, with no dyes to go bad, et al. The only thing I can think of (besides some cost savings IF you need to keep a large library of distinctly separate media), is that some older machines can't use USB thumb drives, and they are admitedly harder to label. |
#18
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Bill in Co wrote:
Paul wrote: Ken Blake, MVP wrote: On Wed, 27 May 2015 00:46:36 -0400, Paul wrote: These are the ones I have. I only have small quantities (small cake boxes). CD-R Only write them once (cannot erase) CD-RW Erase and rewrite DVD+RW Erase and rewrite Personally I avoid RW disks, and have only CDRs and DVD+Rs. They are not only less expensive than RWs, but in my experience they are considerably more reliable. This was true at one time. I had Memorex CD-RW from the old days, that had a serious bit-rot problem. I have had lots of RW media since that time, some of which has been erased a handful of times, and it's still good media. So I no longer have "RW anxiety" here. The stuff seems to be working. Paul I feel/felt the same way as Ken did about the R/W's. But even recordable DVD's have problems: I had a couple of Memorex DVD-R's that over several years became unreadable, and for one of them, you could even see the dye color had changed! My question is: at this point in time, is there really much need for DVD-R's or DVD+R's (or even CDs, for that matter)? We have USB flash thumb drives that are so cheap now (especially for DVD sizes), much faster, and (seemingly) have better life, with no dyes to go bad, et al. The only thing I can think of (besides some cost savings IF you need to keep a large library of distinctly separate media), is that some older machines can't use USB thumb drives, and they are admitedly harder to label. I haven't really been picking favorites here. A CD-R is the equivalent of "write protect", which might be a useful property in some situations. I would put my Kaspersky on a CD that way. I use optical media for my Macrium Reflect boot media. I use a mixture for other cases. I have many Linux distros on RW, some get erased to make room for others. If I need to try Ubuntu, Mint, Knoppix 5.3.1, Gentoo in quick succession, it's nice to just sort through a pile of discs and pick one out. Loading a cheap USB, takes time. My worst one is around 3MB/sec. But on the other hand, some USB keys boot much much faster than an optical disc. I wouldn't say there's any pattern to my usage. Just whatever I can eyeball from my seat, might influence my media choice. I've installed many test copies of Windows, using a USB key to hold the install.wim and friends. I on;ly have six USB keys here, with one of them having a busted pin on it (which means it doesn't get used all that often). It's still electrically functional, as a USB3 pin broke on the 9 contact interface, and the USB2 portion still works on it. Because the connector on it is custom made, there is no easy way to repair it. (The connector is an oddball, and the contact pattern on the PCB doesn't match anything I could find.) Because the connector carries 5GHz signals, you can't just "join it with wirewrap wire" or similar. Home made repairs won't do for a pig like that. It needs to be repaired properly, with a replacement connector. And I can't find one to buy. The metal that snapped is microscopic, and a solder joint would just snap again. Paul |
#19
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Paul wrote:
Bill in Co wrote: Paul wrote: Ken Blake, MVP wrote: On Wed, 27 May 2015 00:46:36 -0400, Paul wrote: These are the ones I have. I only have small quantities (small cake boxes). CD-R Only write them once (cannot erase) CD-RW Erase and rewrite DVD+RW Erase and rewrite Personally I avoid RW disks, and have only CDRs and DVD+Rs. They are not only less expensive than RWs, but in my experience they are considerably more reliable. This was true at one time. I had Memorex CD-RW from the old days, that had a serious bit-rot problem. I have had lots of RW media since that time, some of which has been erased a handful of times, and it's still good media. So I no longer have "RW anxiety" here. The stuff seems to be working. Paul I feel/felt the same way as Ken did about the R/W's. But even recordable DVD's have problems: I had a couple of Memorex DVD-R's that over several years became unreadable, and for one of them, you could even see the dye color had changed! My question is: at this point in time, is there really much need for DVD-R's or DVD+R's (or even CDs, for that matter)? We have USB flash thumb drives that are so cheap now (especially for DVD sizes), much faster, and (seemingly) have better life, with no dyes to go bad, et al. The only thing I can think of (besides some cost savings IF you need to keep a large library of distinctly separate media), is that some older machines can't use USB thumb drives, and they are admitedly harder to label. I haven't really been picking favorites here. A CD-R is the equivalent of "write protect", which might be a useful property in some situations. I would put my Kaspersky on a CD that way. I use optical media for my Macrium Reflect boot media. I use a mixture for other cases. I have many Linux distros on RW, some get erased to make room for others. If I need to try Ubuntu, Mint, Knoppix 5.3.1, Gentoo in quick succession, it's nice to just sort through a pile of discs and pick one out. Loading a cheap USB, takes time. My worst one is around 3MB/sec. But on the other hand, some USB keys boot much much faster than an optical disc. I wouldn't say there's any pattern to my usage. Just whatever I can eyeball from my seat, might influence my media choice. I've installed many test copies of Windows, using a USB key to hold the install.wim and friends. I on;ly have six USB keys here, with one of them having a busted pin on it (which means it doesn't get used all that often). It's still electrically functional, as a USB3 pin broke on the 9 contact interface, and the USB2 portion still works on it. Because the connector on it is custom made, there is no easy way to repair it. (The connector is an oddball, and the contact pattern on the PCB doesn't match anything I could find.) Because the connector carries 5GHz signals, you can't just "join it with wirewrap wire" or similar. Home made repairs won't do for a pig like that. It needs to be repaired properly, with a replacement connector. And I can't find one to buy. The metal that snapped is microscopic, and a solder joint would just snap again. Paul Yes, I forgot about the "write protect" aspect of the optical discs. :-) I (now) use a USB2 thumb drive for Acronis True Image (when I'm not booting up into Windows) for restore operations instead of the Acronis boot CD, and that works out well for me, since it's noticeably faster. The only trick is you've got to make sure the computer can actually boot to it. :-) For your busted pin drive, it sounds like a good solution here would just be to buy another USB3 thumb drive, and copy the contents over to the new one. I'm guessing you're not doing that due to some added expense, but it just might be worth it, no? |
#20
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Bill in Co wrote:
Paul wrote: Bill in Co wrote: Paul wrote: Ken Blake, MVP wrote: On Wed, 27 May 2015 00:46:36 -0400, Paul wrote: These are the ones I have. I only have small quantities (small cake boxes). CD-R Only write them once (cannot erase) CD-RW Erase and rewrite DVD+RW Erase and rewrite Personally I avoid RW disks, and have only CDRs and DVD+Rs. They are not only less expensive than RWs, but in my experience they are considerably more reliable. This was true at one time. I had Memorex CD-RW from the old days, that had a serious bit-rot problem. I have had lots of RW media since that time, some of which has been erased a handful of times, and it's still good media. So I no longer have "RW anxiety" here. The stuff seems to be working. Paul I feel/felt the same way as Ken did about the R/W's. But even recordable DVD's have problems: I had a couple of Memorex DVD-R's that over several years became unreadable, and for one of them, you could even see the dye color had changed! My question is: at this point in time, is there really much need for DVD-R's or DVD+R's (or even CDs, for that matter)? We have USB flash thumb drives that are so cheap now (especially for DVD sizes), much faster, and (seemingly) have better life, with no dyes to go bad, et al. The only thing I can think of (besides some cost savings IF you need to keep a large library of distinctly separate media), is that some older machines can't use USB thumb drives, and they are admitedly harder to label. I haven't really been picking favorites here. A CD-R is the equivalent of "write protect", which might be a useful property in some situations. I would put my Kaspersky on a CD that way. I use optical media for my Macrium Reflect boot media. I use a mixture for other cases. I have many Linux distros on RW, some get erased to make room for others. If I need to try Ubuntu, Mint, Knoppix 5.3.1, Gentoo in quick succession, it's nice to just sort through a pile of discs and pick one out. Loading a cheap USB, takes time. My worst one is around 3MB/sec. But on the other hand, some USB keys boot much much faster than an optical disc. I wouldn't say there's any pattern to my usage. Just whatever I can eyeball from my seat, might influence my media choice. I've installed many test copies of Windows, using a USB key to hold the install.wim and friends. I on;ly have six USB keys here, with one of them having a busted pin on it (which means it doesn't get used all that often). It's still electrically functional, as a USB3 pin broke on the 9 contact interface, and the USB2 portion still works on it. Because the connector on it is custom made, there is no easy way to repair it. (The connector is an oddball, and the contact pattern on the PCB doesn't match anything I could find.) Because the connector carries 5GHz signals, you can't just "join it with wirewrap wire" or similar. Home made repairs won't do for a pig like that. It needs to be repaired properly, with a replacement connector. And I can't find one to buy. The metal that snapped is microscopic, and a solder joint would just snap again. Paul Yes, I forgot about the "write protect" aspect of the optical discs. :-) I (now) use a USB2 thumb drive for Acronis True Image (when I'm not booting up into Windows) for restore operations instead of the Acronis boot CD, and that works out well for me, since it's noticeably faster. The only trick is you've got to make sure the computer can actually boot to it. :-) For your busted pin drive, it sounds like a good solution here would just be to buy another USB3 thumb drive, and copy the contents over to the new one. I'm guessing you're not doing that due to some added expense, but it just might be worth it, no? At the moment, USB keys are off my shopping list. The easiest solution is to just "move on". The nice thing about USB keys, is they aren't very big, so you don't need to dig a big hole in the back yard to bury them. Paul |
#21
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Hello Paul,
I had no idea this was so involved! Seems every time I ask a question it opens a can of worms! So, if I buy a USB key do they have different kinds? If so what would you recommend? I have lots of ports on the 8500 for 2.0 and 3.0 and others for memory sticks for my camera etc. but the 8200 I believe only has 1 USB port under the front panel that lifts up. So then after I load the ISO file to the USB key then insert it in the 8500 won't there be a compatibility issue with the USB ports(I'm not concerned about the amount of time it takes)? If not, then I assume I just insert the DVD-RW disk and copy the ISO file. Is this correct? Thanks, Robert |
#22
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Mark Twain wrote:
Hello Paul, I had no idea this was so involved! Seems every time I ask a question it opens a can of worms! So, if I buy a USB key do they have different kinds? If so what would you recommend? I have lots of ports on the 8500 for 2.0 and 3.0 and others for memory sticks for my camera etc. but the 8200 I believe only has 1 USB port under the front panel that lifts up. So then after I load the ISO file to the USB key then insert it in the 8500 won't there be a compatibility issue with the USB ports(I'm not concerned about the amount of time it takes)? If not, then I assume I just insert the DVD-RW disk and copy the ISO file. Is this correct? Thanks, Robert USB is designed to be backward compatible. Even if you buy a fancy USB flash stick, a USB3 one that runs at 200MB/sec, it will still fit and work on the USB 1.1 port on some older computer at 1MB/sec. So we don't have to worry about that. There have been only limited cases of "lack of compatibility", like an Apple product years ago, that seemed to only support USB2. Most other hardware is compatible. Period. ******* My only problem with USB flash sticks, is the general dishonesty surrounding their performance level. Each and every time, you have to research what their real transfer rate is. The USB flash key I have that only writes at 3MB/sec, it's pretty damn slow. It would take 60 seconds to load your file and less time to unload the Flash stick, if used to transfer files around my computer room. The stick in that case, had the adjective "Ultra" in the product name, implying it used one of the higher-end flash chips. And of course, it was a load of baloney. So just read the reviews and find a semi-good one. This is an example of a recent disingenuous trend. ADATA 8GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive $30 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA0AJ1RX6602 Read Speed up to 80 MB/s Write Speed up to 12 MB/s It's $30. It only has a capacity of 8GB (which is good enough, but some would consider it a bit on the small side). But the worst part, is the asymmetric read versus write. When you're loading up the stick, it's no better than a stick from eight years ago. It seems they have no trouble getting read speed, but write speed is hard to come by. Second mistake. USB flash sticks with *plastic* connector barrel. *Do not buy!!!* This one is all plastic. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820233648 OK, this one looks acceptable. It has a metal connector body on it. The transfer characteristics is asymmetric (you have little choice in the matter, unless you spend over a hundred bucks). But it looks decent so far. The write won't be 30MB/sec, but probably around 20MB/sec on your average usage day. Obviously, if the 8200 only has a USB 1.1 port on the front, it can still only read or write at ~1MB/sec. But on the 8500 it will go faster. Patriot 16GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Model PEF16GSBUSB $13 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220653 Up to 90MB/s Read Up to 30MB/s Write The price is decent. It uses a cap and isn't a retractable design. Yes, you can lose the cap, but at least the metal barrel isn't always retracting on you. Always remember to install these "square". If you attempt to insert on an angle, and cause the neck of the flash drive to correct your angular error, it stresses the solder joints that fasten the metal barrel connector to the fiberglass PCB. It helps, if you can see what you're doing, and the area is well lit. If you install flash drives in the dark, it's harder to see what you're doing. And my oldest computer, the computer connector is just a poor fit. No matter what cabling or connector I use, that computer has a very high insertion force. All my other motherboards, the USB on them isn't anywhere near as bad. You don't have to buy USB3, but the thing is, the USB2 designs can have a fairly high level of inferior designs (6MB/sec write), and we're kinda forced into getting the USB3 version. I would just as soon take a USB2 metal barrel with 30/30 read/write as I would a USB3 90/30 read/write. And the reason is, the USB3 products have 9 contacts hiding inside the barrel. The four original USB spec contacts, are bulletproof. The five new contacts they added, are a little more exposed to damage. While I have not broken any of my quality USB3 flash drives, the USB3 flash drive with the plastic barrel, broke on the first day! With the plastic barrel, there is enough deformation while inserting them, to endanger proper connector capture, which is why a pin got broken. A USB3 pin, because they're elevated above the surface, and the barrel *must* be metal to enforce proper tolerances (clearance on insertion). Paul |
#23
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Mark Twain wrote:
Hello Paul, I had no idea this was so involved! Seems every time I ask a question it opens a can of worms! So, if I buy a USB key do they have different kinds? If so what would you recommend? I have lots of ports on the 8500 for 2.0 and 3.0 and others for memory sticks for my camera etc. but the 8200 I believe only has 1 USB port under the front panel that lifts up. So then after I load the ISO file to the USB key then insert it in the 8500 won't there be a compatibility issue with the USB ports(I'm not concerned about the amount of time it takes)? If not, then I assume I just insert the DVD-RW disk and copy the ISO file. Is this correct? Thanks, Robert Oh, another thing. If you have memory card readers on both the 8200 and 8500, you could achieve a file transfer using a camera memory chip. I don't give that a strong endorsement, because sometimes you can mess up the chip enough that the camera refuses to use it. (The camera should have a bulletproof "format" function to recover the chip.) That's the only issue I have with using some sort of camera memory chip for the job. So again, if both ends have readers, you may be able to move the file between computers that way. ******* Also, if you discover the 8200 is USB1.1, you can fit a USB2 card in it (this would be the same thing I need to do to my old Macintosh computer). The 8200 may only have PCI slots, and there are only a couple USB3 cards for PCI, so you're less likely to get a good deal on those. But USB2 PCI cards are a dime a dozen, and work a lot faster than any USB 1.1 ports you're stuck with. StarTech PCI420USB USB2 4 Port PCI $13 (uses VIA VT6212L) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815158045 Notice that the card has five connectors, which means the internal connector shares with an external connector. If you use the internal connector for wiring up one additional front USB port, then one of those four connectors on the back, you'd stop using it. If you don't use the internal connector, then all the external ones should work fine. (A link showing the VT6212L chip only supports 4 ports and not 5). http://www.via.com.tw/en/products/pe...s/usb/vt6212l/ This is a way to put USB3 in the 8200, but the card costs $60. The USB3 in this case, is limited to 110MB/sec max, out of a possible 400+MB/sec or so. The PCI bus is the limitation. But if you want a decent transfer speed on your USB (for a USB3 flash stick), this is the way you get it. Too bad it's 5X the price of a USB2 card. There is also a danger, with an 8200 era computer, that the BIOS will not be able to figure out what you've plugged in. (Some of the old BIOS don't like bus translation chips.) That is less likely to happen with the simple VT6212L design. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815158361 For a USB2 PCI card, I would have selected one with a NEC chip on it, but I don't see any for sale. And that's the only reason I selected a card with VIA on it. Paul |
#24
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
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#25
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Hello Paul,
I guess there's a big difference in the USB flash drives. I'm not all that certain that Radio Shack here in town would have the Patriot so I might just go ahead and order it from Newegg since this isn't a time sensitive issue. The 8500 does have the memory card reader as I upload my images using the camera memory chip but the 8200 does not. I would like to upgrade the 8200 but the only USB slots are in front under the hinged panel. Thanks, Robert |
#26
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Mark Twain wrote:
Hello Paul, I guess there's a big difference in the USB flash drives. I'm not all that certain that Radio Shack here in town would have the Patriot so I might just go ahead and order it from Newegg since this isn't a time sensitive issue. The 8500 does have the memory card reader as I upload my images using the camera memory chip but the 8200 does not. I would like to upgrade the 8200 but the only USB slots are in front under the hinged panel. Thanks, Robert When you put a PCI card in the 8200, the USB ports would be on the back. It depends on whether the 8200 is pushed up against a wall, as to whether those connectors would be accessible. I use ports on the back of this computer I'm typing on, all the time. I've had two USB flash keys and a USB optical drive connected at the same time (leaving about one spare port). Having the connectors on the back, causes the fewest installation problems. It's just the usage that isn't very convenient. ******* Getting an additional connector on the front of the computer, is a herculean effort :-) If the computer has spare 5.25" drive bays, you can use products like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811996047 That's a rather exaggerated example, in that to use all of those, it would be a real project hooking all that stuff up successfully. Your 8200 would not have the internal ports necessary to hook that item up. Even my latest motherboard here, would be hard pressed to satisfy all of them. For example, on this card, there are two USB connectors pointing *inside* the computer. You purchase the above tray product, and run two of its cables, down to the two connectors on this add-in card. Now this card will not fit in the 8200, so this is purely for illustration only. http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...jQfDvsiKWx.jpg ******* So maybe I should pick out a pair of products that would work :-) Objectives: *One* working USB2 port in an unused 5.25" drive bay Parts: PCI to USB card with *one* internal port connector $14 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815158045 SIIG JU-H42B22-S2 One port to four port 3.5" or 5.25" bay front panel $25 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815150025 Now, I really didn't want that last one, but I was having trouble finding a $13 "dumb" panel without fancy circuit board. All this job really requires is the equivalent of an extension cord. And I'm trying to make a neat and tidy solution. This is the right kind of dumb panel (just extension cords), but it fits a spare 3.5" bay rather than 5.25". And it's still too damned expensive for what you're getting. This is a USB3 bay, but you could still plug one cable into the USB2 PCI card above. Of the two ports, one would work and the other one would be disconnected. It's harder to find PCI cards with just the right mix of internal ports for the job, to match a USB front panel tray exactly. Silverstone USB 3.0 ports with 3.5" $24 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817997021 It's always been hard picking these things, because there are a few things to factor in to getting a good one. I guess I'm going to have to look on Amazon. SEDNA - 2 Port USB 3.0 to 3.5" Floppy Bay, 2x Type A Connector $11 http://www.amazon.com/SEDNA-Floppy-F.../dp/B00V2DUBXA The $14 PCI card plus the $11 adapter for 3.5" bay, gives me a single working USB 2.0 port on the front of the 8200 for $25. And that is assuming there is a spare 3.5" hole on the front. I would try to purchase all my items from one supplier, to keep shipping costs down. If you go with the $14 card and the SIIG bay at $25, that's a total of $39 bucks and all the ports work on the front. The bandwidth of one USB port is shared over all four connectors (since the tray holds a hub chip). Now buying the $14 PCI to USB card, plus a USB extension cord, that may cost less, but then there is a cord dangling beside the 8200 all the time. The cord would run from the back of the computer, out where you can get at it and plug in your USB key. (Example of Type A Male to Type A Female, for extension... $5) http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cabl.../dp/B00182CIB8 That means I can do a less than desirable solution for $19 total plus shipping. Or $39 plus shipping for a more "deluxe" solution. Paul |
#27
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Hello Paul,
That's allot of good information you've put together and is hard for me to ingest all of it at once *L* However, is it possible that we can just remove the 3 1/2 inch drive opening and use that? There also 'appears' to be a 'pop-out' panel below the DVD/CD Drive. $25-50 is OK. However, back to basics all I really want to do at this point is get the ISO file copied. Won't the Patriot work with the existing USB port? Robert |
#28
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
Mark Twain wrote:
Hello Paul, That's allot of good information you've put together and is hard for me to ingest all of it at once *L* However, is it possible that we can just remove the 3 1/2 inch drive opening and use that? There also 'appears' to be a 'pop-out' panel below the DVD/CD Drive. $25-50 is OK. However, back to basics all I really want to do at this point is get the ISO file copied. Won't the Patriot work with the existing USB port? Robert It would work fine in any case. My only reason for pointing out the expected speed, is so you won't be surprised by what happens. I've transferred simply huge files on my Macintosh G4 with USB 1.1 ports, and it took over an hour for it to complete. USB 1.1 ports *really suck* (they do 1MB/sec). And I just want you to be comfortable with that. The transfer step on your 8500, is going to scream by comparison (30MB/sec if the storage device can keep up). ***** I looked here, and they claim there are 2? ports on the front, and they're USB2 type. http://www.engadget.com/products/del...on/8200/specs/ This article says http://www.zdnet.com/product/dell-di...th-533mhz-fsb/ "First, the 850E only supports existing PC800 memory rather than the new higher-bandwidth PC1066 memory (at least officially). Second, the 850E uses the existing ICH2 peripheral controller chip, which rules out motherboard support for Ultra-ATA/133 hard disks and USB 2.0 devices. Both of the latter features can be added via PCI cards, but the first crop of 533MHz FSB systems are clearly nterim products." Maybe there is more than one motherboard design over the life of the 8200. As the two articles have differing facts. One says the Dimension 8200 has USB 1.1, the other says USB 2.0. In the article here, "850E" or Tehama-E Northbridge, can be paired with ICH2/ICH4. ICH4 would have USB2. Not sure about ICH2 (could be USB 1.1). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_chipsets Further down the page, are separate listings for the various Southbridges. ICH2 82801BA USB Rev 1.1, 4 Ports ICH4 82801DB USB Rev 2.0, 6 Ports So the idea would be, the next time you have the 8200 open, you can look for a square chip which has no heatsink on top. And see if it is an 82801. The letters on the end, identify which ICH number it is. The "DB" is ICH4 (I think I have a motherboard here with one of those). And the purpose of looking, is as a way to predict whether it will take 3 minutes to load up the Patroit USB flash, or it will take 7 seconds or so. With the very best setup possible (perhaps using your 8500 as a hardware base), you could reduce that transfer time closer to 1 second. But I don't have anything here that can do that. My newest motherboard is still too crippled to be capable of hitting that benchmark. Maybe I could do it in 3 or 4 seconds on a good day. So far, I've been particularly unlucky picking such hardware. I have three USB3 flash sticks and they all suck (not the fat Patroit design). Patriot is one of the few companies making multichannel flash sticks - the disadvantage of their faster designs, is they're a bit large and may block a second USB port from being used. They're possibly quad channel designs. One of my sticks here is dual channel, but isn't particularly fast. And the newer ones probably use toggle flash to get additional speed (the interface can go very fast, but sometimes internally the flash doesn't write all that fast). But nothing beats a whole bunch of channels in parallel, for improving the storage speed. It also reduces the profit margins on the products (can't lift the price too high, or nobody will buy your stuff - USB flash is very price sensitive). Paul |
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
I just ordered the Patriot USB flash, I passing I was wondering if you knew anything about Rapid Gator and whether a program is safe to download from there? Since were talking about upgrading the 8200 I would like it to have the same media capabilities as the 8500 but unsure what kind of software it requires? Thanks, Robert |
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Unable to create a bootable rescue disk:
On Monday, May 25, 2015 at 9:14:06 PM UTC-5, Mark Twain wrote:
I have a Dell Dimension 8200 (Seagate Barracuda 7200 HD 160GB) with XP, SP3, Spywareblaster, Avast, Malwarebytes, Malwarebytes Anti-Exploit and Windows Firewall. I'm trying to create a bootable rescue disk with Macrium but I seem to be doing something wrong. In the first place I had to download a newer version of Macrium. I clicked on the top left to create the bootable disk, but then not sure whether I should use PE 3.1 or PE 4.0 since I had to upgrade macrium. I selected PE 3.1 and then clicked rebuild and the following screens appeared: http://i62.tinypic.com/2ijk7xd.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/oiy5vn.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/xap4j7.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2gt2lcn.jpg http://i62.tinypic.com/ymh5e.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/34sldlc.jpg If I selected PE 4.0 I get this: http://i62.tinypic.com/2n9l280.jpg Thoughts/suggestions? Thanks, Robert I put my Macrium rescue media on a pendrive. More reliable and easier than CD/DVD. ANdy |
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