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#91
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Your not going to believe this but
the red indicator on the APC came on. So looks like I'll have to try and repair the socket (I'm not going to like this) 1. turn off power to the room so I won't get shocked 2. see if it's just some loose screws that need tightening. 3. restore power and check APC Anything else? Robert |
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#92
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I'm trying to follow you in cables etc.
So do I have enough etc. I wish they would use color cables or at least make an option to choose either black or colored. I'm still iffy on which cables to remove/replace. Since I'm not using the HD in the 8500 maybe I should remove it and put it in the Startech external case and see what it is? Robert |
#93
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
I'm trying to follow you in cables etc. So do I have enough etc. I wish they would use color cables or at least make an option to choose either black or colored. I'm still iffy on which cables to remove/replace. Since I'm not using the HD in the 8500 maybe I should remove it and put it in the Startech external case and see what it is? Robert You can remove it from the computer, but it still might require working with the cabling on the next drive to get it clear of the rack. Sometimes the cables on one drive, can prevent the other drive from being worked loose. Paul |
#94
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
Your not going to believe this but the red indicator on the APC came on. So looks like I'll have to try and repair the socket (I'm not going to like this) 1. turn off power to the room so I won't get shocked 2. see if it's just some loose screws that need tightening. 3. restore power and check APC Anything else? Robert No, your first step is the outlet tester. First gather information, then act. Paul |
#95
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
My fault,.. we were looking at old
images when we did a clone or something. I now remember borrowing the data cable from the 780 although I still can't remember what we were doing. I know because I opened up the 8500 to remove the HD and it wasn't there. Since I had it opened I wanted to follow which wires that came out of the PSU. We already identified the one 4x8 (the brown and black wiring) and the PWR1,. I found the other (the black and yellow wiring) It was just tucked under the optical drive. http://i68.tinypic.com/k19tti.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1538qp1.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/i6vyxg.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/2cffhc2.jpg What do you think? Robert |
#96
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
OK,.. sounds good.
Robert |
#97
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
My fault,.. we were looking at old images when we did a clone or something. I now remember borrowing the data cable from the 780 although I still can't remember what we were doing. I know because I opened up the 8500 to remove the HD and it wasn't there. Since I had it opened I wanted to follow which wires that came out of the PSU. We already identified the one 4x8 (the brown and black wiring) and the PWR1,. I found the other (the black and yellow wiring) It was just tucked under the optical drive. http://i68.tinypic.com/k19tti.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1538qp1.jpg The two 2x3 are for PCI Express video http://i67.tinypic.com/i6vyxg.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/2cffhc2.jpg What do you think? Robert I took your picture and circled a few things. https://i.postimg.cc/jqkspD61/the-pc...connectors.jpg The loose pair of connectors are for PCI Express video cards. Some video cards take a 2x3 plus a 2x4, and the video card can use a total of several hundred watts. The top end of the gamer cards are 180W and 250W for example. And it takes quite a few yellow wires (and pins) to safely carry the necessary current for that. When your video card has no "Aux" connectors on it, the card is limited to 75W. And ideally, a little less than that perhaps. Pretty well all the video cards I've owned, were the low power ones (the HD6450 was something like 3 watts at idle, and 15 watts max). On your new power supply, you won't be using the 2x3 PCI Express connectors, and perhaps that cable can stay in the cardboard box. Whereas on the old supply, the cable was captive, and has to remain curled up somewhere in the computer case. Paul |
#98
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
..
On your new power supply, you won't be using the 2x3 PCI Express connectors, and perhaps that cable can stay in the cardboard box. Whereas on the old supply, the cable was captive, and has to remain curled up somewhere in the computer case. Paul I see I have to provide a separate 24 pin cable from the PSU to the HD since it's not captive. I still have one 4x8 captive set to account for or do I? I still can't find any plug that looks like that other than the brown/black you found. Which if any of the modular connections would I be using? SATA/Molex, PCI-E ? However you said I wouldn't be using the PCI because my video card doesn't support it. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817151203 Robert |
#99
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
. On your new power supply, you won't be using the 2x3 PCI Express connectors, and perhaps that cable can stay in the cardboard box. Whereas on the old supply, the cable was captive, and has to remain curled up somewhere in the computer case. Paul I see I have to provide a separate 24 pin cable from the PSU to the HD since it's not captive. No, your new power supply is semi-modular. The "main" connector on your new supply is a 24 pin. And you'll be using that on the 24 pin on the motherboard. The way this works, is the connector is a 20+4. There are two sections. You hold the sections side-by-side while plugging in the 20+4. If you had a much older motherboard (like the 8200 RAMBUS board), it would have had a 20 pin connector. The new supply could be plugged in, by plugging in just the 2o pin section and leaving the "+ 4" portion dangling. Playtool has a picture of the 20+4 in its various disguises. Modern supplies today aren't quite as fancy as the connector in the picture. This one uses metal "hooks" to join the two sections. The lower left of this picture, is the way you'll want to arrange yours before plugging it into the 24 pin motherboard site. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...all20plus4.jpg That cable is a captive one, and comes out through the grommet hole with the other captive cables. I still have one 4x8 captive set to account for or do I? I still can't find any plug that looks like that other than the brown/black you found. You are supposed to have one cable with a couple 2x2 connectors that when combined, makes a 2x4. ___ ___ ___ ___ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | \_/ --- \_/ \_/ ___ ___ ___ ___ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | --- \_/ \_/ \_/ \_________/ | Use this one Which if any of the modular connections would I be using? SATA/Molex, PCI-E ? However you said I wouldn't be using the PCI because my video card doesn't support it. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817151203 Robert You will be using SATA4, SATA2, MOLEX3+FloppyAdapter as your cables. The PCI Express modular stays in the cardboard box. You are using almost all of them, but the reason for using them is "routing convenience". For example, to connect the floppy on the one machine, requires using the Molex, and putting the Molex to Floppy adapter on the end of it. Paul |
#100
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
These cables are confusing me. I know of course
where the main cable goes,. it's pretty hard not to miss that, I've already tried it on the 780 but all the other cables I'm not understanding what they are. As your link shows what I was referring to with the separate cabling captive but mind doesn't have that, so I'll have to use one of the cables and plug it into the PSU, correct? I just don't have your level of knowledge of what goes where although I'm trying to keep up. As far as the red light , do you think I have a bad outlet maybe? I'll wait for the testor of course. Robert |
#101
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
These cables are confusing me. I know of course where the main cable goes,. it's pretty hard not to miss that, I've already tried it on the 780 but all the other cables I'm not understanding what they are. As your link shows what I was referring to with the separate cabling captive but mind doesn't have that, so I'll have to use one of the cables and plug it into the PSU, correct? I just don't have your level of knowledge of what goes where although I'm trying to keep up. As far as the red light , do you think I have a bad outlet maybe? I'll wait for the testor of course. Robert The connectors have a variety of shapes, to help guide you on which one to install. There aren't really all that many connectors to install. You can make a system drawing or grocery list if you want: motherboard - main 24 power, ATX12V 2x2 power optical drive - SATA power (use one cable for one side of PC) hard drive - SATA power (use second cable for other side of PC) floppy - use Molex power with Molex to floppy adapter on end video card - None By making a list of system components, you can break down the problem into pieces, and solve each piece, one at a time. On the PC that has two hard drive slots, the "chained" SATA on the SATA cable, can cover the two hard drives (if present). That was the example I made in one of my pictures. You tend to have the one HDD in the machine, so you won't necessarily need to hook up the second. For SATA drives, you need enough data cables. Perhaps you have two SATA data cables, out of the four "spigots" on the motherboard surface. Picking up a couple more SATA data would help cover situations where you want to use an additional device of some kind. It's not absolutely necessary to solve that today, but some time if you're ordering a few items for some other purpose, you can include one additional SATA data. You pick a type (straight or right angle) that best covers the situation. The straight end might go into the motherboard, an angled one might cover the drive end. It depends on the situation, whether a straight one for the hard drive would stick out too much, versus the angled one being a bit harder to remove when you need to remove it. So rather than starting off confused, why not make a "grocery list" of the project and break the problem down into pieces ? Part of the problem, is looking at the "jumble" of cables in the main collection. Remember that it's the devices that need power. You don't need to hook up every cable. Only the cables needed to power devices will be hooked up, leaving the other cables unused and "coiled up somehow" to stay out of the way. Generally, I don't like to put a lot of stress on the cables if I can help it. And that's one of the challenges with any PSU changeout, is figuring what to do with the unneeded cables. In my newest build, some of the cables "rest" in a 5.25" bay, and that takes the weight off the PSU grommet area. Just about every case I have here, has a lack of cable management. The case with the metal bar that runs across the case as a strength member, that bar is handy for hooking up a nylon tie, to loosely hold wire. Part of the value of this site, and the detailed photos, is to see how they've tried to arrange the connectors so you can't plug them into the wrong holes. This is a good guide for anyone new to the task, as an "explainer" for what you're holding in your hand when you pull the PSU out of the new box. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psucon...onnectors.html Start with the grocery list, make a list of "devices" in the PC, and organize your thoughts that way. Just like if you were planning a plumbing job, you had a water heater, a kitchen sink and a bathroom sink. You know all three need to be connected so you can have hot water on each sink. Look at the devices in the PC, and make sure they're "plumbed" :-) Paul |
#102
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
The grocery list really helped me to see what I need
and I have time to study the 8500 and 780 and work it all out before I have to replace either. I also remembered your SATA on SATA example you made and that helped as well. I could go with just a single as you suggested but it's nice to have the option of two if ever needed. I forgot about the connector link you gave me before and that will help identify what is what. I see just by reviewing it quickly there are all types of connectors and that I have an ATX 20+4x4 main power cable. Thanks,. Robert |
#103
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
The grocery list really helped me to see what I need and I have time to study the 8500 and 780 and work it all out before I have to replace either. I also remembered your SATA on SATA example you made and that helped as well. I could go with just a single as you suggested but it's nice to have the option of two if ever needed. I forgot about the connector link you gave me before and that will help identify what is what. I see just by reviewing it quickly there are all types of connectors and that I have an ATX 20+4x4 main power cable. Thanks,. Robert The 20+4 has an "interesting" history. The connector started with 20 pins (like on your 8200 RAMBUS board). Someone decided the ability to carry a few more amps (for the PCI Express slot and video cards) would be a good idea, so they extended the connector to 24 pins. They could have profitably put two yellow wires and two black wires on the extension piece, but they decided to waste some wires on extra +3.3V and +5V instead. This was covered in an ATX spec (Intel formfactors.org site). The industry wanted to make power supplies that could handle both roles. And make products that would work in your old 8200 or your newer 8500. They split the connector into two pieces, giving the 20+4 connector. (That isn't detailed in the Intel documentation, it's an industry innovation of sorts. And from a track record perspective, any time the industry does something like this, it's usually a disaster :-/ ) Initially, the "fastener" between the two pieces was more robust. And there would be feedback to the user, that the pieces held together. The Playtool site has a picture of a 20+4 with "hooks" to encourage capture. The modern versions of 20+4, the two pieces barely acknowledge their partner is next to them. There is a plastic "rib", but it doesn't seem to do much. Some retention of the two pieces is needed, because the lock latch on the 20 pin piece, is helping to hold the 4 pin section in place, when you plug a 20+4 into a 24 pin motherboard (your case). And having said all that, they are still shipping power supplies with just a 24 pin connector, which doesn't split. If you buy one of those, when the 24 pin is plugged into a 20 pin motherboard, four pins "hang over the side" on one end. If there is an electrolytic capacitor next to the 20 pin, it gets in the way and blocks proper seating of the connector. And that's what happens if you buy a 24 pin (un-splittable) one, versus the 20+4 you got. Pros: 20+4 handles both motherboard types, 20 and 24 pin. Cons: Two halves may not have a lot holding them together. Can be hard to figure out what to do with it :-) The most positive aspect of the 24 pin connector, is it comes with one additional yellow wire, to power a video card slot. Paul |
#104
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
It's interesting you commented on the 24pin
because as I said I had a hell of time getting it off because you have to hold the clip while doing so to release it. However, when I put it back I heard it click. The second time I tried it I didn't hear a click but was afraid of pressing too hard so left it. I think one of the things I want to do is go down the list and connect each cable to the PSU,. that will give me a feel for what I need to replace and where the cables will go. Would the 4 pin ATX replace the 2x2 on the motherboard or is that another separate wire? Robert |
#105
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
If you click on the picture it opens up
a box with (7) pictures. From looking at the fourth picture (connections) I will have 3 cables connecting to it since you said I don't need the PCI cabling. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16817151203 which is exactly what you listed motherboard - main 24 power, ATX12V 2x2 power optical drive - SATA power (use one cable for one side of PC) hard drive - SATA power (use second cable for other side of PC) floppy - use Molex power with Molex to floppy adapter on end video card - None Robert |
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