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#1
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. (1) TB HD Intel (R) Core (TM) i7-33-3770 CPU @ 3.40 GHz Ram 12.0 GB System type : 64-bit operating system I also have I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. Intel (R) Core 2 Duo 2.93 GHz 4GB RAM, 750 GB HD System type : 64-bit operating system and (external hard drives) (8500) WD BLACK SERIES WD2003FZEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (780) Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Awhile back we discussed backup HD's and PSU's for the 8500 and 780. I just wanted to verify again that these were still the best choices: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16822148834 PSU (for both the 8500 and 780): https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...82E16817151096 I do like the 2TB Seagate's they're quiet and reliable. Thanks, Robert |
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#2
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. (1) TB HD Intel (R) Core (TM) i7-33-3770 CPU @ 3.40 GHz Ram 12.0 GB System type : 64-bit operating system I also have I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender and Windows firewall. Intel (R) Core 2 Duo 2.93 GHz 4GB RAM, 750 GB HD System type : 64-bit operating system and (external hard drives) (8500) WD BLACK SERIES WD2003FZEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (780) Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Awhile back we discussed backup HD's and PSU's for the 8500 and 780. I just wanted to verify again that these were still the best choices: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16822148834 PSU (for both the 8500 and 780): https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...82E16817151096 I do like the 2TB Seagate's they're quiet and reliable. Thanks, Robert Well, the power supply was selected for its generous 3.3V and 5V rails. It's almost enough to be a "universal" mid-range power supply. That may be how we selected it. If you had a clamp-on DC ammeter, you could measure the various rails and see exactly how much power is required. You'd start a Prime95 "Torture Test" run, and measure the ATX12V cable. Start a Furmark video card test, and measure the PCIE power cable to the video card. And so on. This works best, if the existing power supply is not "sleeved" and the wires are both colorful and loose. You can gather up the four red wires and put them in the jaws of the clamp-on meter and "sum" the current in the wires. That means, it is possible to work out actual loads, and based on that, select some other supply. In looking through the Newegg selection of 600-700W supplies, there are supplies with higher ratings, but also higher prices. And some of the cheaper ones, the 3.3V and 5V can be below 20A max output. There's nothing particularly wrong with that... as long as you know the motherboard doesn't draw that much. I've had only one motherboard, where the CPU ran off +5V, where the +5V drew current at 25 amps. That's not likely to happen on any modern setup. It would take a large number of hard drives to max out the +5V rail (as hard drives use about 1 amp each from +5V). You'd need a huge tower filled with drives, to tip over the power supply. (I generally start calculating and including startup current on hard drives, when the PC has four or more hard drives installed and powered at the same time.) I think those will be good choices without running up the price too high. On hard drives, there will be plenty of temptations out there, but you have to keep your eyes peeled for "shingled" drives, and avoid buying those. Those belong in data centers, by owners with deep pockets, for when they fail. The manufacturer should not torture consumers with those damn things. (They used the cache DRAM on the controller board, to kinda fix the performance, but they're still not a product I would recommend to anyone. There's no reason for ****ty little 2TB versions of shingled drives to exist. They would be a horrible choice as a boot/OS drive, because they're really targeted for archival storage.) Paul |
#3
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
If there's a better choice for the PSU for a little more $$$ I'd like your recommendations; I'm looking more for quality. As I said, I'm satisfied with the Seagate's but wanted to check to see if they had a new better HD? Thanks, Robert |
#4
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I should of included this for reference.
ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-produ...nual_en-us.pdf Robert |
#5
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
This is the setup I'm going for:
(2) PSU's, one each for the 8500 and the 780. (2) HD's which will give me (3) total with the one I already have cloned for the 8500. Then I'll clone one for the 780 and leave the other clean. I'm also going to pick up another APC surge arrest. What do you think? Robert |
#6
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
This is the setup I'm going for: (2) PSU's, one each for the 8500 and the 780. (2) HD's which will give me (3) total with the one I already have cloned for the 8500. Then I'll clone one for the 780 and leave the other clean. I'm also going to pick up another APC surge arrest. What do you think? Robert The APC surge arrestor won't stop the "electrician wiring problem" you had, where 220V was applied to 110V circuits. The surge arrestor only works for transients. Any even moderate steady-state threat (overvoltage at substation), that'll just smoke the arrestor and it then no longer protects anything. Good arrestors have a status LED, which indicates the surge protection is damaged. I have one somewhere in my "power tree" for the computer room, but I can't say it's still operational. ******* For the PSU: Open the web browser to newegg.com. Look for Power Supply in the Components section. You want "Power Supply", not "Server Power Supply". In the selectors on the left, select "600W - 700W", set Sellers to Newegg rather than All Sellers. Then, sort the listed supplies by "Best Rating". You might find supplies with Modular (cable looms unplug) or Fixed wiring. I find them equally a nuisance. It's hard to find wiring loops with proper color codes. You'd have to check the photos of the supply for that. The power supply has two "standard dimensions", leaving the length of the supply as a variable. At 600W, the supplies aren't likely to be so long with respect to the faceplate, that they bump into the optical drive. While keeping those things in mind, look at the output current rating. I aim for 5V @ 20A , 3.3V @ 20A , as a good minimum, just in case the supply is used in an older PC. Modern PCs might not need that much. The 12V rail rating, depends on what you're powering. My current CPU draws 156W. The video card draws 180W. I divide the total by 12V to come up with an amp rating, then throw in a little margin. (If I got a number like 30A, I might look for 45A say.) Maybe that kicks me out of the 600W class. The machine I'm typing on (which is similar to your 780), is unlikely to even be remotely close to that high. Maybe it only needs 15A on the 12V rail say. When picking a 600W class power supply, that's to cover the average kit you might find in a computer room, with room to spare. What it doesn't cover, is if you're a Rich Guy with four 250W video cards, and then you need a 1300W supply which is so long, you need a bigger computer case. And you'd need a bigger computer case any way, because the video cards are a couple feet long :-) For specialty electrical loads, you should be doing the math before buying. The most expensive power supply you can buy, is around $500, and has Gallium Nitride power transistors. And is, perhaps, 90% efficient. I don't think you need two of those, but who am I to judge :-) I bet they come with a nice hood ornament. And a fancy carrying case. In that 600W section, you should be able to find something between $60 and $100. There is likely one with a better customer rating than the one I selected. I selected that particular one, because of the lower rail rating. And the lower rail rating (the beef) is there, so the power supply, while sitting on your spares shelf, could be placed in any new computer you happen to buy a few years from now (refurb or new). I tried to make the selection a bit "generic", just like I do when I buy a spare power supply for my junk room. For example, right now, my spare is sitting in a P4 machine (with more power on the lower rails needed). If you buy a Fortron-branded supply, be aware the wires on those aren't very long, and depending on where the motherboard connectors are located, the connectors might not reach. The other brands aren't likely to do that, but check the *customer comments* section for details. I did spot one comment while browsing a few of them, where cable length got mentioned. This can be a problem in larger computer cases, where the PSU sits on the bottom of the machine, and the main power connector is on the upper corner of the motherboard. Paul |
#7
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Mark Twain wrote:
If there's a better choice for the PSU for a little more $$$ I'd like your recommendations; I'm looking more for quality. As I said, I'm satisfied with the Seagate's but wanted to check to see if they had a new better HD? Thanks, Robert IMO, Seasonic is the best you can get without going industrial redundant. My Seasonic 750 Titanium Prime powers the Nvidia 1080 just fine. It cost $170 last year. It barely gets warm at full gaming. Both CPU and GPU are over clocked 30%. It's unlikely you will need that much power. Just make sure your PSU fits in the case before buying. HDD. For XP I only use WD Blacks. They run hot but have never had one fail. |
#8
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I followed your instructions but it's
way beyond me to know what to look for. I thought about this but I don't really know what I'm looking for? I just went with Seasonic because that's what was suggested before. The prices do go pretty high. I figured around $100-$125. https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...82E16817151096 but the 5V @ 24A, 3.3V @ 24A is higher. Are we concerned more about that then about rails or both? I would really prefer if you could suggest what you think is best or is the original Seasonic OK to go with? Thanks, Robert |
#9
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I suppose the only way to see if it fits inside
before buying is to open them up and measure the PSU? I really hate doing that.... Paul knows I'm a prime example of Murphy's Law. Weird things seem to just happen. Robert |
#10
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
I also choose this one because it
had the most reviews. Robert |
#11
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
According to the reviews it sounds
exactly like what I'm looking for. That is if it meets my wattage etc. which I know nothing about and if it fits. Also I'm not a gamer. So I don't care about that stuff but I want quiet, quality and reliability. Robert |
#12
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
The APC surge arrestor won't stop the "electrician wiring problem" you had, where 220V was applied to 110V circuits. Boy that was something wasn't it! It fried allot of things. All the more reason to buy backup HD, and PSU's. I still have to send my tuner our for repair but will be doing that soon. The guy got fired as a result. I've had a mini-split system installed with two (12,000 btu ducts)one in the living room and one in the bedroom at opposite end. So they cleaned all the wiring up in the outside box and running 110V. They also tested the 220V as bad and left it disconnected. https://www.heatandcool.com/12-000-b...l-bracket.html Robert |
#13
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
For some reason I selected the wrong PSU link.
This is the PSU I was looking at: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...88&ignorebbr=1 I did look at some of your examples but this has 753 reviews and most seem to think its good. As far as wattage etc I don't know anything about that. If this is too much wattage or whatever maybe we should stay with the original selection? https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produc...82E16817151096 Thoughts/Suggestions? Robert |
#14
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Hmmmm I just saw that the one I was looking
at was 650W while the other was 620W so there's not allot of difference but the reviews of the one I was looking act were impressive. Robert |
#15
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O.T. HD, PSU review:
Question; even if I open up both the 8500 and 780
computers to get the PSU measurements,I don't see any online measurements for the PSU? So how do I know if they'll fit? Also how do I verify cable length online other than comments? Robert |
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