O.T. Macrium

I did a search with Agent Ransack and it
seems they are in the program files?


http://i65.tinypic.com/2ppg9on.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/1zckg47.jpg


So would I choose the last xReflect 2,577 KB?

Robert

Understood,...

Robert

I tried it again without updating
and it still did not give me the
pop-up to see folders inside. it
did register the USB connection
however as before.

So I will reinstall macrium and then
check

Robert

Mark Twain wrote:
I did a search with Agent Ransack and it
seems they are in the program files?


http://i65.tinypic.com/2ppg9on.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/1zckg47.jpg


So would I choose the last xReflect 2,577 KB?

Robert

A check of the properties of xReflect.exe file on my install
says it's "Reflect Uninstaller". Now, maybe it can run
a Repair install. But I doubt it would install from
scratch.

The OS has a tendency to "remember things", and have
a look to see if you have an MSI like this for your
6.3 version. No guarantees.

C:\WINDOWS\Installer\reflect_setupv5.3.7277-x86-00.msi

Macrium also keeps zipped WinPE files around on the
disk, wasting a good deal of space :-) I think I've seen
more than one copy on my travels. These files, can be
used with more than one version of Macrium (for making
rescue CDs).

C:\Windows\Installer\pe10x64.zip 239,010,128
C:\Windows\Installer\pe5x64.zip 197,696,981

The download from Microsoft is larger than that, and
Macrium post-processes things and ZIPs up the results.

*******

When you right-click on a .msi file, the option offered
is "Install". It's an installable file.

In the Control Panel "Programs and Features", when you select
"Repair" for a program from the program-offered menu, it
can use that MSI file to re-install the program. So your
machine does have archived, a good deal of useful information
already. You have to look around to find it though. Takes
a few searches.

Some "repair" attempts fail, because the MSI was unpacked in
%temp% and was subsequently erased. I've had other cases
where the Programs and Features tells me the necessary file
was on my RAMDisk (and the contents of the RAMdisk are lost
every time the power goes off). So some MSI files are
missing-in-action. But a properly installed program has
the MSI put in a standard place (with a little luck).

Paul

I checked and I couldn't find any installer files.
I also used Agent Ransack with Windows\installer
as the search and it couldn't find anything. I
checked Programs and Features and it doesn't offer
a repair feature.

I used your link and it gave me Version 6.3. 1849
again and the Version 7 pop-up is still there. Then
logged onto the admin Account and found a previous
version under downloads:

http://i68.tinypic.com/2wfvj1e.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/22gr5w.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/fabino.jpg

I tried the WD external HD again and it does
the same thing. The pop-up which should appear
saying 'view folders inside' but it doesn't.
However it recognizes the USB connection.

Robert

I think at this point the main problem I'm having
is the external HD isn't connecting properly so I
can use Macrium because the 8500 doesn't see it
but it recognizes the USB connection?

I tried using a different port but that doesn't
work either. So why isn't the 8500 seeing it?

The 780 completed a Mrimg but afterward wouldn't
safely remove the USB connection, so I think I
would like to do another after the 8500 just to
play it safe.

Thanks,
Robert

Mark Twain wrote:
I checked and I couldn't find any installer files.
I also used Agent Ransack with Windows\installer
as the search and it couldn't find anything. I
checked Programs and Features and it doesn't offer
a repair feature.

I used your link and it gave me Version 6.3. 1849
again and the Version 7 pop-up is still there. Then
logged onto the admin Account and found a previous
version under downloads:

http://i68.tinypic.com/2wfvj1e.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/22gr5w.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/fabino.jpg

I tried the WD external HD again and it does
the same thing. The pop-up which should appear
saying 'view folders inside' but it doesn't.
However it recognizes the USB connection.

Robert

Is the backup drive showing up in File Explorer ?

If you go to File Explorer, My Computer (which shows
all partitions and drive letters), if you click on
the backup drive partition, do "Properties", "Tools",
and select the Check option, what does CHKDSK say
about the partition ? Is it healthy ?

Do the usual set of simple tests to see if the
OS is happy with the partition.

I don't want to consider this a Macrium problem, unless
the drive shows signs it is healthy as a hard drive.

You've probably run CHKDSK on a drive before. Right ?

*******

And the backup drive will *not* show up, unless
you go into Disk Management, go to the row in the
screen for that external drive, and change the
"Offline" state to "Online". That's a regular drill
at your place :-) It should be a reflex action by now :-)
Verify it's actually in online state.

Don't ask me why NTFS TXF keeps making that necessary,
as I still don't have an answer. If I knew a way to turn
off TXF, I'd have told you by now.

Paul

Well I had a quite s night,... it started raining
and I had a power outage while I was on the
computer!

I was without power for 12 hours,.. and just got
online after two electricians; the first rewired
my outside box wrong and I had another power outage
because of that. The second electrician was much more
professional and got my power back up and lights working.

In the process it fried my modem... luckily I had a spare.

Whew,.. still haven't slept.

I'll have to check out the File Explorer etc a little
later today and get back to you.

Thanks,
Robert

I just found out that I have no sound from my
speakers!@ Please don't tell me these were also
fried !

They are beautiful Harmon Kardon HK695 speakers:

https://www.google.com/search?q=harm...eKb1Toju9sXywM


I checked the fuse in the rear and it was OK but
I replaced it anyway but still no sound? It seems
that whatever it was really fried my speakers and
modem!

Do you have any suggestions? My only thought is to buy
another set of speakers,.... sigh

Robert

Robert

On further checking my tuner in my main
stereo in out also and another small stereo
in my front room is out. Neither of these
were being used and my heater is also out.

Whatever it was sure did allot of damage.

Robert

Mark Twain wrote:
On further checking my tuner in my main
stereo in out also and another small stereo
in my front room is out. Neither of these
were being used and my heater is also out.

Whatever it was sure did allot of damage.

Robert

It's amazing that it got your heater. That
means the event must have had a long duration,
and a breaker at the substation or on your
street didn't open right away during the fault.

Modem/routers and stereos don't hold up too well.
Stereos lack DC regulation inside. Modems have
the RJ11 or coax coming into them, which is the
source of trouble.

Computers are a little better, as the ATX supply
provides a small measure of protection. The main
cap can still blow on those, but if you're lucky,
the guts of the machine might survive. The ATX
supply says "HiPot tested" on it, which means it
will resist a common mode insult on the AC prongs,
without the supply arcing over (across the transformer)
inside.

But generally speaking, an AC event can cause
a lot of damage.

To blow your heater though, that's pretty intense.
A heater isn't particularly robust, but it does
take a second or two for the resistance wire to
get hot enough to melt and separate. I got a
demo of that during a small accident in the
power lab at school :-) (No, it wasn't on
my bench, one of the other student teams
made a wiring mistake. Oops.) Electricity
takes no prisoners. Ask any lineman who has
been injured on the job about that.

Losing stuff to electricity sucks. I lost my
stereo that way. And the electricity here,
cooked my 85lb CRT monitor, and is one of the
reasons I have an LCD monitor on my desk today.
I build my own amp as a replacement for the
lost stereo, and it has a regulator in it :-)
The amps also have a feature where they disconnect
the speakers when the DC rises above about 40V or so.
(It's an 18V max circuit.)

*******

In some places, you can actually make a claim
with the power company.

https://www.powercor.com.au/media/34...claim-form.pdf

In others, they may insist you take up the issue with
your primary insurer. If you have no house insurance,
then they could be next on the list to resolve the issue.
If I had a problem here, I doubt I would get much out of
my power company. Those guys can barely tie their own shoes
(it's a small city-wide power company, not one of the larger
companies).

Paul

Here's what happened, I had the outage as I said,
but the first electrician the park managers sent
to fix the problem re-wired my outside box for 220
instead of 110.

That's what fried my modem, speakers, alarm clock,
mini stereo system, TV, DVD player, stereo tuner on
another system.

The manager wants me to make a list with replacement
cost but my problem is finding another suitable TV, I
have/had a Sony WEGA

https://www.google.com/search?q=sony...YGZC4MF9Gty5M:

but I can't find a suitable replacement? They all seem
to be HD, blue ray, or Wifi,.. which would make all my
DVD's useless, correct? All I want is a regular TV without
all the bells and whistles and play my DVD's ( non HD,
non-blue ray)

The computers seems to be OK except for the modem and
speakers.

I did find the exact same speakers on eBay so I'll go with
them and I guess I have to stick with the back-up modem
because don't you have to use the one the ISP provides? If
not, could you recommend one? Although I'm using a Verizon
modem, and my ISP is Frontier.

Back to the external HD not connecting,.. I haven't tried it
again, ...obviously all this pushed it out of my mind, but
will get back to it.

Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert

Mark Twain wrote:
Here's what happened, I had the outage as I said,
but the first electrician the park managers sent
to fix the problem re-wired my outside box for 220
instead of 110.

That's what fried my modem, speakers, alarm clock,
mini stereo system, TV, DVD player, stereo tuner on
another system.

The manager wants me to make a list with replacement
cost but my problem is finding another suitable TV, I
have/had a Sony WEGA

https://www.google.com/search?q=sony...YGZC4MF9Gty5M:

but I can't find a suitable replacement? They all seem
to be HD, blue ray, or Wifi,.. which would make all my
DVD's useless, correct? All I want is a regular TV without
all the bells and whistles and play my DVD's ( non HD,
non-blue ray)

The computers seems to be OK except for the modem and
speakers.

I did find the exact same speakers on eBay so I'll go with
them and I guess I have to stick with the back-up modem
because don't you have to use the one the ISP provides? If
not, could you recommend one? Although I'm using a Verizon
modem, and my ISP is Frontier.

Back to the external HD not connecting,.. I haven't tried it
again, ...obviously all this pushed it out of my mind, but
will get back to it.

Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert

If you have the Verizon modem, you could check the part number
for that on Google or Ebay, and see if a retail store carries
them. My ISP had a "recommended" modem for ADSL, and I managed
to buy it retail with no problem. If you're paying a
rental fee to Verizon, maybe you should just get them to
send you another. Their payback period on rental is two
or three years, and after that, it's gravy for them. Providing
another modem for one that has "mysteriously" fried should
not be a problem.

One reason for resolving the issue with Verizon themselves,
is when you close your Verizon account, you send the rental
modem back. There is a fee if you fail to return the modem.
It's better to resolve the "fried" issue with them now,
rather than later. As it will only cost you money later,
well after your insurance-type issue is behind you and
you cannot recover the funds.

As for your home theater setup, it would consist of a TV
and a separate optical disc player. Or, it could be a TV
with an optical player in it. Maybe at this point, you don't
really know whether both are blown or not.

Optical players use a different laser color for each type
of disc. As well as slightly different lens setup. The CD
has a laser, DVD has its laser, and BD has a blue laser.

It should be possible to get a standalone DVD player for
maybe $50-$100 (allowing for inflation).

Some TVs include an optical player right in the unit,
but then if something happens to it, you don't really
want to toss the TV set.

If the TV that replaces your WEGA has "more" stuff on it,
it's stuff you can ignore. At the very least, the TV must
have the correct connector on the back, for the output
the player makes. Your old player might have been
Channel 3 RF modulated (coax cable or cable plus balun
to antenna terminals). Newer players or TV sets might use
HDMI for the signal. So you do want to inspect how the
signal gets from the player to the TV set. If you are
replacing both at the same time, then HDMI is good enough.
You can also do YPrPb (looks like RGB RCA connectors),
plus two RCA connectors for left and right audio.

My $50 DVD player, it only has S-Video on it (four pin DIN),
and I run that into a Channel 3 modulator from Radio Shack.
But that is the absolute crudest way of getting a signal
into a TV set. HDMI would be a *lot* better.

Find model numbers for your stuff. Look at the cabling
between them, figure out what standard is being used.

If you look at the back of this standalone DVD player, it
has composite video, L&R audio (which you can feed to a
TV modulator for usage with old TV sets on Channel 3). But
the box also has an HDMI connector, and HDMI can carry
both video and audio at 1920x1080.

https://www.amazon.com/LG-DP132H-Reg.../dp/B06W557RRR

You want a TV set with that kind of native resolution,
as then there is a one-to-one mapping between source
signal and pixels on the screen. A 1366x768 screen might
not look as good.

I think you have a standalone player, but you know these
details and I don't. If you originally had a TV and
a separate player, then that's what they should provide
as replacements. If the TV has Wifi, don't use it. If the
TV has USB, you don't care. If the TV has HDMI... then
mate that in your mind, to the HDMI connector on the
back of the DVD player you select.

If you were running your TV sound, through your speakers,
then you would want an L&R set of RCA audio outputs on the
back, which you could run to the mixer panel on the back of
the stereo receiver. You don't have to suffer with TV
speakers if you don't want to, and with a $50 DVD player,
should be able to run the HDMI to the TV with video, and a
couple RCA plugs for connection of audio to your stereo. I
used to have five different devices connected to the back
of my stereo, and buttons on my stereo remote, would
select the input source I wanted (CD player, tuner,
computer output :-) etc). When my stereo blew, I lost
all that, and no longer have a mixer. So everything flows
through a computer, to my audio stuff. I just don't
have FM radio any more (although my latest TV tuner
card can do that, and it has a separate connector
for FM radio antenna input).

Look at the wiring on the back, and you can work it out.
If both standalone player was blown and the TV is gone,
then you get to replace them with HDMI wiring, as it's
pretty compact. If the player is going to be 100 feet
from the TV set, then that's another matter (the cabling
doesn't go an infinite distance).

Paul

I know all of this is way off topic but I appreciate
your guidance.

I didn't close my Verizon account they switched
all their customers to Frontier and I didn't have
Internet access for 3 months because they did this.

Oh I know the TV is fried,.. it won't turn on or the
DVD player but other parts of my stereo do turn on.
In passing, my refrigerator also took a hit and has
to be replaced. This guy sure did a number on me.

I've seen the HDMI which means I also have to have
a DVD player with HDMI connections but wouldn't that
render all my regular non HD DVD's useless? If so, then
they need to replace all my DVD's as well.

I do like Sony TV's at least they use to be the best
but I'm having trouble finding anything. Here's one I
found.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_2q2z8nmtbj_e

this was my DVD player:

https://www.google.com/search?q=sony...WfX-GEUAA2GhM:

I don't run my TV through speakers, I just use
the speakers in the TV itself.

So if I understand you I have to match a TV with
HDMI connection with a player with HDMI connections,
correct?

Thanks,
Robert

I just measured my TV and the screen 21 inches
diagonally, 17 inches wide and 12 3/4 high. The
TV itself is 24 1/4 inches wide, 15 3/4 inches
high,

I don't seem to be able to find any Sony's in this
range. Everyone is making bigger and bigger TV's
now. So what am I to do?

Robert