Keep a corded ball mouse?

Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).

On 12/9/2013 3:49 PM, Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).



FWIW, I am still using the vintage PS/2 Microsoft Mouse 2.0, even on
my new computers with an USB adapter. This mouse design has a nice,
firm and comfortable feel. They are around 20 years old by now?

GR

On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 16:49:58 -0700, Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).

In my experience on Windows XP...
Cheap PS2-to-USB converter won't work fully.
Specifically on the un/replugging part.
i.e.: not fully compliant to Plug-And-Play specifications.
If I unplug it (the USB plug), the mouse/keyboard will still be detected by
Windows.
The mouse/keyboard won't work if I plug it back and no matter how many times
I un/replug it.
The only way to fix it is to restart Windows.
This isn't Windows issue since it doesn't occur with native USB
mouse/keyboard.

Bill in Co wrote:

Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).

If the cord is not a problem in your moving the mouse (i.e., you don't
feel any tension applied by the cord upon the mouse -- usually meaning
the wire is thin with soft or flexible coating) then why bother having
to replace batteries or pay for pricey rechargeable ones just to be
wireless? You don't mention the environment but I've seen wireless mice
interfere with each other across the cubicles (in fact, once it was with
a workstation one floor up). The wifi dongle might work on a backside
port but with gear squashed together and with metal cases you might find
the dongle has to be in a front or more forward USB port. Do you really
want to suck up one of your easy-to-reach USB ports?

USB devices are polled, not interrupt driven. That means there can be a
delay, especially if there is high traffic over the same USB controller
as used for the mouse or keyboard. You'll find hardcore gamers used
corded mice and keyboards and they don't use USB but the old PS/2 ports.
In fact, you'll notice the "gamer" motherboards come with at least one
PS/2 port which typically gets used for the keyboard (to allow a larger
number of mashed keys to get recognized; i.e., with a gamer keyboard you
can mash several keys at once and more of them will get recognized, like
anywhere from 8 to 16, or more, concurrently pressed keys -- although
I've yet to see the alien playing the game). With only one PS/2 port,
the mouse gets stuck on a USB port. Those come in pairs (two per
controller and why you see pairs of USB ports). Whatever you plug into
the other paired USB port shouldn't generate high traffic (i.e., don't
hook your printer or NIC dongle there).

Even in old video games (e.g., Doom), I'd find USB mice were jerky or
would stall at times but a PS/2 mouse did not. A wireless mouse was
even worse. Wireless or USB corded just can't keep up to a PS/2 mouse
(assuming the mice are equal in their data rate). If you go wireless or
USB, and if you into gaming or for some reason need the fastest response
you can get, look at the mouse specs and get a fast one.

As for being a ball mouse, well, it never will be as accurate or
responsive as an optical mouse. The ball gets filthy and that filth
gets burnished onto the ball. Use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the
ball and it'll change from dark/dull gray to bright gray. That filth
also gets onto the rollers which makes action stick or skip. You have
to clean the rollers, too. Inside there is still an optical sensor.
Spoked wheels rotate inside with the rollers and a LED detects that
rotation. There is play with the ball which means it may not be on a
roller to move it. Shake the balled mouse. Hear the rattle? A male
mouse (balled) can't keep up to a female mouse (ball-less) for lateral
speed if not only because of the ball's play but also due to its
inertia, especially when suddenly jerking in a different direction.

While filth (hair, dust, lint) can also get inside an optical mouse,
it's just a matter of using a pair of tweezers to remove whatever is
wavering in front of the LED to eliminate erratic sensing (it can see
that thin whisker or lint fiber fluttering in front of it).

Some mice are designed to work on either a PS/2 or USB port. They have
internal logic to differentiate the signal for each port type. All they
need is a passive adapter (USB to PS/2). Going from a USB mouse or
keyboard to a PS/2 port is easy and a passive adapter works -- as long
as the mouse was built to recognize USB versus PS/2. A USB-only mouse
will not work through a passive adapter to a PS/2 port. It's missing
the signal differentiation logic (and why it's cheap). Going from PS/2
to USB requires an active adapter (has to convert one hardware protocol
to another) and those are pricey (you could buy a dozen USB/PS2 mice for
the price). You never mention WHICH brand and model of corded mouse you
have; however, if it's so old to be a balled mouse then it probably does
not have internal signal differentiation logic to let it connect to
either a PS/2 or USB port. Likely your old balled mouse is PS/2 only.

If possible, I always get a corded [optical] mouse. I don't care to
have the batteries go weak just at the point in a game so I get killed.
I really don't want to be working on my computer and then have to
interrupt my work finding new batteries or swapping out with a
pre-charged alternate set. Everytime you open the battery compartment
in the mouse is more wear and more chance you break it (many just flex a
plastic tang). I don't want any jerky or stalled action in the mouse
(or in the keyboard, either). I get mice that have soft flexible and
thin cords so they don't put any tension on the mouse, and I leave the
area uncluttered where the cord needs to move.

But as for a balled mouse, nope, I'd toss that. Gets dirty faster, it's
harder to clean (requires dismantling to get inside to clean the
wheels), and rattles around on quick movements so it's off the rollers.
Regarding the sensing, there's no wear with female mice but male mice
always tire quicker. The slider pads, buttons, and scroll wheel
encounter the same abuse whether a male or female mouse.

Wire fatigues with bending so a wired mouse will eventually break the
strands in its cord. Have the mouse move around on a pad but keep the
end that falls over the desk in the same place. Don't have the cord
bending around speakers, telephones, or other obstructions. Have the
cord straight from the mouse to the other end (like where it falls
behind the desk to loop over to connect to the computer). While thin
flexible cords are nice to reduce tension on the mouse, thicker cords
usually last longer. However, considering the abuse a mouse gets,
you'll probably be replacing it because a mouse button (plastic tang
with a flexible plastic hinge) goes back or a switch for a button goes
bad. When I find a mouse that I like, I buy a spare. When the one I'm
using goes bad, I go to the spare and buy another as the new spare.
Alas, eventually they will no longer make the one you like and you'll
have to find a new one you like. Not since the old Northgate keyboards
can you get mice and keyboards that last and last and last (and can be
repaired, too).

Well,yes, multiples of each type, serial, PS2, and USB. I do support and
have customers that may need the older stuff.

Have serial on the KVM tied to the 3 systems I use most, PS2 on the
rest.

On Monday, December 9, 2013 5:49:58 PM UTC-6, Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?

It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on

to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works

on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about

it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2

to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the

amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).

I would keep it.

I use and won't buy any uncorded mice.

Andy

Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).



Balled mice are a cleaning issue. The ball can also become non-spherical
as it ages, which is annoying as well. You could be removing the ball
and cleaning the gunk off it once a week. That's the main reason any
remaining ball mice here, are retired.

The USB to PS/2 adapter, the dongle end has a processor and firmware
in it. The USB protocol and design is intended for hot-plug. The PS/2
point is not. You would unplug your assembly, at the USB point. The
processor provides some opportunity for handling the needs of a
HID device. (You don't download code to it - the ROMed code
has to do everything, and perfectly, out of the box.)

The favored chip in the $5 to $10 adapter, is made by Chessen. As far
as I know, that chip is out of production now. If you want an adapter,
buy it now, rather than wait five years.

The early Chessen used to mis-behave after ten minutes of operation.
That is fixed now. As long as you're buying relatively new stock,
you shouldn't be seeing any bugs in the USB to PS/2 conversion.
Those kind of chips, they can put new code in the ROM layer (masked ROM),
but can only afford to change it, maybe every 50000 chips or so. I
don't think the chip is EEPROM and electrically erasable. That means
by now, the firmware has probably been revved a few times. I have
no idea, how many "quirks" that code has to handle, how many
if-then-elses are in there. I expect quirks to be an issue.
There's bound to be some keyboard, that doesn't work well with it.

Paul

In message , Ghostrider
" writes:
On 12/9/2013 3:49 PM, Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).



FWIW, I am still using the vintage PS/2 Microsoft Mouse 2.0, even on
my new computers with an USB adapter. This mouse design has a nice,
firm and comfortable feel. They are around 20 years old by now?

GR

Pah, Johnny-come-lately ... I still have some serial mice. (Somewhere!)

(Yes, I know all these buses - PS/2, USB - are serial; I mean with a
9-hole D connector.)

I admit I use the touchpad for most things (-:
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

I don't think I would make a great rock star. I like my tea too much!
- Jessica Raine (Jenny in "Call the Midwife"),
in Radio Times 19-25 January 2013.

VanguardLH wrote:
Bill in Co wrote:

Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse
around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung
on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it
works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's
about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive
PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some
didn't).

If the cord is not a problem in your moving the mouse (i.e., you don't
feel any tension applied by the cord upon the mouse -- usually meaning
the wire is thin with soft or flexible coating) then why bother having
to replace batteries or pay for pricey rechargeable ones just to be
wireless? You don't mention the environment but I've seen wireless mice
interfere with each other across the cubicles (in fact, once it was with
a workstation one floor up). The wifi dongle might work on a backside
port but with gear squashed together and with metal cases you might find
the dongle has to be in a front or more forward USB port. Do you really
want to suck up one of your easy-to-reach USB ports?

USB devices are polled, not interrupt driven. That means there can be a
delay, especially if there is high traffic over the same USB controller
as used for the mouse or keyboard. You'll find hardcore gamers used
corded mice and keyboards and they don't use USB but the old PS/2 ports.
In fact, you'll notice the "gamer" motherboards come with at least one
PS/2 port which typically gets used for the keyboard (to allow a larger
number of mashed keys to get recognized; i.e., with a gamer keyboard you
can mash several keys at once and more of them will get recognized, like
anywhere from 8 to 16, or more, concurrently pressed keys -- although
I've yet to see the alien playing the game). With only one PS/2 port,
the mouse gets stuck on a USB port. Those come in pairs (two per
controller and why you see pairs of USB ports). Whatever you plug into
the other paired USB port shouldn't generate high traffic (i.e., don't
hook your printer or NIC dongle there).

Even in old video games (e.g., Doom), I'd find USB mice were jerky or
would stall at times but a PS/2 mouse did not. A wireless mouse was
even worse. Wireless or USB corded just can't keep up to a PS/2 mouse
(assuming the mice are equal in their data rate). If you go wireless or
USB, and if you into gaming or for some reason need the fastest response
you can get, look at the mouse specs and get a fast one.

As for being a ball mouse, well, it never will be as accurate or
responsive as an optical mouse. The ball gets filthy and that filth
gets burnished onto the ball. Use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the
ball and it'll change from dark/dull gray to bright gray. That filth
also gets onto the rollers which makes action stick or skip. You have
to clean the rollers, too. Inside there is still an optical sensor.
Spoked wheels rotate inside with the rollers and a LED detects that
rotation. There is play with the ball which means it may not be on a
roller to move it. Shake the balled mouse. Hear the rattle? A male
mouse (balled) can't keep up to a female mouse (ball-less) for lateral
speed if not only because of the ball's play but also due to its
inertia, especially when suddenly jerking in a different direction.

While filth (hair, dust, lint) can also get inside an optical mouse,
it's just a matter of using a pair of tweezers to remove whatever is
wavering in front of the LED to eliminate erratic sensing (it can see
that thin whisker or lint fiber fluttering in front of it).

Some mice are designed to work on either a PS/2 or USB port. They have
internal logic to differentiate the signal for each port type. All they
need is a passive adapter (USB to PS/2). Going from a USB mouse or
keyboard to a PS/2 port is easy and a passive adapter works -- as long
as the mouse was built to recognize USB versus PS/2. A USB-only mouse
will not work through a passive adapter to a PS/2 port. It's missing
the signal differentiation logic (and why it's cheap). Going from PS/2
to USB requires an active adapter (has to convert one hardware protocol
to another) and those are pricey (you could buy a dozen USB/PS2 mice for
the price). You never mention WHICH brand and model of corded mouse you
have; however, if it's so old to be a balled mouse then it probably does
not have internal signal differentiation logic to let it connect to
either a PS/2 or USB port. Likely your old balled mouse is PS/2 only.

If possible, I always get a corded [optical] mouse. I don't care to
have the batteries go weak just at the point in a game so I get killed.
I really don't want to be working on my computer and then have to
interrupt my work finding new batteries or swapping out with a
pre-charged alternate set. Everytime you open the battery compartment
in the mouse is more wear and more chance you break it (many just flex a
plastic tang). I don't want any jerky or stalled action in the mouse
(or in the keyboard, either). I get mice that have soft flexible and
thin cords so they don't put any tension on the mouse, and I leave the
area uncluttered where the cord needs to move.

But as for a balled mouse, nope, I'd toss that. Gets dirty faster, it's
harder to clean (requires dismantling to get inside to clean the
wheels), and rattles around on quick movements so it's off the rollers.
Regarding the sensing, there's no wear with female mice but male mice
always tire quicker. The slider pads, buttons, and scroll wheel
encounter the same abuse whether a male or female mouse.

Wire fatigues with bending so a wired mouse will eventually break the
strands in its cord. Have the mouse move around on a pad but keep the
end that falls over the desk in the same place. Don't have the cord
bending around speakers, telephones, or other obstructions. Have the
cord straight from the mouse to the other end (like where it falls
behind the desk to loop over to connect to the computer). While thin
flexible cords are nice to reduce tension on the mouse, thicker cords
usually last longer. However, considering the abuse a mouse gets,
you'll probably be replacing it because a mouse button (plastic tang
with a flexible plastic hinge) goes back or a switch for a button goes
bad. When I find a mouse that I like, I buy a spare. When the one I'm
using goes bad, I go to the spare and buy another as the new spare.
Alas, eventually they will no longer make the one you like and you'll
have to find a new one you like. Not since the old Northgate keyboards
can you get mice and keyboards that last and last and last (and can be
repaired, too).

As per above it's a corded mouse. Like you and a couple of others here, I'm
not interested in a cordless mouse.

But the specific model is a Microsoft Intellipoint 1.2A with a PS/2 output
connector.

So from all I've read here and there, including your and Paul's response,
it's gonna be a crapshoot as to whether or not the cheapie PS/2 to USB
adapters work or partially work, but that the pricey (more intelligent)
converters, that actually have a chip inside, can and do work.

I do recall cleaning the trackball with alcohol, but not all that often.
That said, I'm not a gamer - I'm just using the mouse for basic desktop
work. But you've got to admit these old Microsoft Intellipoint mice feel
very comfortable in the hand!

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message , Ghostrider
" writes:

FWIW, I am still using the vintage PS/2 Microsoft Mouse 2.0, even on
my new computers with an USB adapter. This mouse design has a nice,
firm and comfortable feel. They are around 20 years old by now?

GR

Pah, Johnny-come-lately ... I still have some serial mice. (Somewhere!)

(Yes, I know all these buses - PS/2, USB - are serial; I mean with a
9-hole D connector.)

I admit I use the touchpad for most things (-:

I still have a serial mouse.

I use it for testing serial mouse problems, whatever those are.
(Some OS, has an option at boot time, to probe the serial ports,
looking for one of those mice.)

Other than that, it's like any other mouse of that generation.
Grey rubber ball, slightly out of round, that
picks up a lot of dirt. I paid $5, and it's probably worth $1 :-)

Paul

Paul wrote:
Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse
around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung
on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it
works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's
about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive
PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some
didn't).



Balled mice are a cleaning issue. The ball can also become non-spherical
as it ages, which is annoying as well. You could be removing the ball
and cleaning the gunk off it once a week. That's the main reason any
remaining ball mice here, are retired.

The USB to PS/2 adapter, the dongle end has a processor and firmware
in it. The USB protocol and design is intended for hot-plug. The PS/2
point is not. You would unplug your assembly, at the USB point. The
processor provides some opportunity for handling the needs of a
HID device. (You don't download code to it - the ROMed code
has to do everything, and perfectly, out of the box.)

The favored chip in the $5 to $10 adapter, is made by Chessen. As far
as I know, that chip is out of production now. If you want an adapter,
buy it now, rather than wait five years.

The early Chessen used to mis-behave after ten minutes of operation.
That is fixed now. As long as you're buying relatively new stock,
you shouldn't be seeing any bugs in the USB to PS/2 conversion.
Those kind of chips, they can put new code in the ROM layer (masked ROM),
but can only afford to change it, maybe every 50000 chips or so. I
don't think the chip is EEPROM and electrically erasable. That means
by now, the firmware has probably been revved a few times. I have
no idea, how many "quirks" that code has to handle, how many
if-then-elses are in there. I expect quirks to be an issue.
There's bound to be some keyboard, that doesn't work well with it.

Paul

As I said in my other reply to Vanguard, it will be interesting to see if
the cheapie adapters work at all. I've read conflicting reports on that,
but more so when they try to use those cheapie adapters to convert a PS/2
*keyboard* to a USB output, which admitedly seems a lot more problematic.

And someone else here posted that they got theirs to work so long as it was
left plugged in, but if they unplugged and replugged it back in, not so much
(due to the issues already mentioned).

It's just that these old mice are SO comfortable in your hand. :-)

Yeah, I know, there probably are some newer optical ones out there that are
just as comfortable, and come standard with USB output, and are not too
expensive, so why even bother. :-)

One thing is for sure - if it really takes a more expensive (i.e. smart)
adapter, I'll probably just chuck the idea. :-)

On Tuesday, December 10, 2013 7:53:25 PM UTC-6, Paul wrote:
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

In message , Ghostrider

" writes:



FWIW, I am still using the vintage PS/2 Microsoft Mouse 2.0, even on

my new computers with an USB adapter. This mouse design has a nice,

firm and comfortable feel. They are around 20 years old by now?



GR



Pah, Johnny-come-lately ... I still have some serial mice. (Somewhere!)



(Yes, I know all these buses - PS/2, USB - are serial; I mean with a

9-hole D connector.)



I admit I use the touchpad for most things (-:



I still have a serial mouse.



I use it for testing serial mouse problems, whatever those are.

(Some OS, has an option at boot time, to probe the serial ports,

looking for one of those mice.)



Other than that, it's like any other mouse of that generation.

Grey rubber ball, slightly out of round, that

picks up a lot of dirt. I paid $5, and it's probably worth $1 :-)



Paul

It won't pick up as much dirt if it's on a non-shedding surface.

Even paper is fair.

Andy

Bill in Co wrote:
Paul wrote:
Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse
around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung
on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it
works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's
about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive
PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some
didn't).


Balled mice are a cleaning issue. The ball can also become non-spherical
as it ages, which is annoying as well. You could be removing the ball
and cleaning the gunk off it once a week. That's the main reason any
remaining ball mice here, are retired.

The USB to PS/2 adapter, the dongle end has a processor and firmware
in it. The USB protocol and design is intended for hot-plug. The PS/2
point is not. You would unplug your assembly, at the USB point. The
processor provides some opportunity for handling the needs of a
HID device. (You don't download code to it - the ROMed code
has to do everything, and perfectly, out of the box.)

The favored chip in the $5 to $10 adapter, is made by Chessen. As far
as I know, that chip is out of production now. If you want an adapter,
buy it now, rather than wait five years.

The early Chessen used to mis-behave after ten minutes of operation.
That is fixed now. As long as you're buying relatively new stock,
you shouldn't be seeing any bugs in the USB to PS/2 conversion.
Those kind of chips, they can put new code in the ROM layer (masked ROM),
but can only afford to change it, maybe every 50000 chips or so. I
don't think the chip is EEPROM and electrically erasable. That means
by now, the firmware has probably been revved a few times. I have
no idea, how many "quirks" that code has to handle, how many
if-then-elses are in there. I expect quirks to be an issue.
There's bound to be some keyboard, that doesn't work well with it.

Paul

As I said in my other reply to Vanguard, it will be interesting to see if
the cheapie adapters work at all. I've read conflicting reports on that,
but more so when they try to use those cheapie adapters to convert a PS/2
*keyboard* to a USB output, which admitedly seems a lot more problematic.

And someone else here posted that they got theirs to work so long as it was
left plugged in, but if they unplugged and replugged it back in, not so much
(due to the issues already mentioned).

It's just that these old mice are SO comfortable in your hand. :-)

Yeah, I know, there probably are some newer optical ones out there that are
just as comfortable, and come standard with USB output, and are not too
expensive, so why even bother. :-)

One thing is for sure - if it really takes a more expensive (i.e. smart)
adapter, I'll probably just chuck the idea. :-)

I'm thinking more along the line of obscure keyboard types,
perhaps keyboards that aren't normally connected to a PC,
and have never been tested with the adapter.

The original problem with the Chesen, was it froze up.
Presumably, the little processor crashed on some bad code. That's
what got fixed, eventually.

Reading the reviews on Newegg for one of those USB to PS/2
adapters, should give some idea how many keyboards it's been
working with. Or mice.

If your mouse happened to have 20 buttons on it, I wouldn't
expect all the buttons to work. If you're lucky, the standard
three are passed through. There might not be sufficient
standards, for more than that number of buttons.

The adapter should cost around $10 or so, and the
shipping is likely more than the adapter.

*******

Hmmm. I was looking for an example, and I started
reading the reviews...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=12-156-019

"7/8/2008 9:55:59 AM

This is my 2nd purchase of the same (or so I thought) adapter.
My 1st one was purchased in Feb 2007 from NewEgg. It worked
perfectly under Linux (Slackware 10.2 at that time). I don't
think I ever tested it under any variant of Windows because
I really only run Linux. I was very pleased with how well
this 1st adapter worked and decided to order another (Jun 2008).
Unfortunately, this 2nd adapter, despite using the same NewEgg
product number and very similar packaging, is NOT THE SAME
ADAPTER as the first one I purchased.

Under Linux, 'cat /proc/bus/usb/devices' clearly shows the
difference in USB Vendor/Product IDs.

The 1st (Feb 2007) adapter I bought (which works great under
Linux) reports "Vendor=0a81 ProdID=0205 Rev= 0.10",
"Manufacturer=CHESEN", and "Product=PS2 to USB Converter".

The 2nd (Jun 2008) adapter I bought (which has completely
non-working keyboard functionality under Linux) reports
"Vendor=13ba ProdID=0017 Rev= 0.01",
no manufacturer, and "Product=Generic USB Keyboard"
"

So for at least that adapter, they've changed manufacturers.
And I see I mis-spelled Chesen. I'd noticed the Chesen
was discontinued, but I didn't think that happened that
long ago.

13ba PCPlay
0017 PS/2 Keyboard+Mouse Adapter

I didn't know there was a second one out there. More
variables at play. Need to pay more attention to the
reviews now.

Paul

On 09/12/2013 23:49, Bill in Co wrote:
Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some didn't).


As long as it is still working and you have a machine that has a
connection port for accepting PS/2 mouse then continue using it.

There is no point in throwing something as simple as a mouse just
because new ones have come out. A mouse is a mouse and they won't do
anything more than what a mouse should be doing.

Good luck.


--
Good Guy
Website: http://mytaxsite.co.uk
Website: http://html-css.co.uk
Email: http://mytaxsite.co.uk/contact-us

Bill in Co wrote:

VanguardLH wrote:
Bill in Co wrote:

Is there any advantage to keeping a nice Microsoft corded ball mouse
around?
It's extremely comfortable. I was just curious if anyone else has hung
on
to one of these things or the like. I can think of one advantage: it
works
on ANY surface, unlike most optical mice, plus its comfort, but that's
about
it. Mine is a PS/2 type. How well it would work with an inexpensive
PS/2
to USB converter is another story, and from what little I've read on the
amazon reviews, that can be problematic (some got it to work, some
didn't).

If the cord is not a problem in your moving the mouse (i.e., you don't
feel any tension applied by the cord upon the mouse -- usually meaning
the wire is thin with soft or flexible coating) then why bother having
to replace batteries or pay for pricey rechargeable ones just to be
wireless? You don't mention the environment but I've seen wireless mice
interfere with each other across the cubicles (in fact, once it was with
a workstation one floor up). The wifi dongle might work on a backside
port but with gear squashed together and with metal cases you might find
the dongle has to be in a front or more forward USB port. Do you really
want to suck up one of your easy-to-reach USB ports?

USB devices are polled, not interrupt driven. That means there can be a
delay, especially if there is high traffic over the same USB controller
as used for the mouse or keyboard. You'll find hardcore gamers used
corded mice and keyboards and they don't use USB but the old PS/2 ports.
In fact, you'll notice the "gamer" motherboards come with at least one
PS/2 port which typically gets used for the keyboard (to allow a larger
number of mashed keys to get recognized; i.e., with a gamer keyboard you
can mash several keys at once and more of them will get recognized, like
anywhere from 8 to 16, or more, concurrently pressed keys -- although
I've yet to see the alien playing the game). With only one PS/2 port,
the mouse gets stuck on a USB port. Those come in pairs (two per
controller and why you see pairs of USB ports). Whatever you plug into
the other paired USB port shouldn't generate high traffic (i.e., don't
hook your printer or NIC dongle there).

Even in old video games (e.g., Doom), I'd find USB mice were jerky or
would stall at times but a PS/2 mouse did not. A wireless mouse was
even worse. Wireless or USB corded just can't keep up to a PS/2 mouse
(assuming the mice are equal in their data rate). If you go wireless or
USB, and if you into gaming or for some reason need the fastest response
you can get, look at the mouse specs and get a fast one.

As for being a ball mouse, well, it never will be as accurate or
responsive as an optical mouse. The ball gets filthy and that filth
gets burnished onto the ball. Use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the
ball and it'll change from dark/dull gray to bright gray. That filth
also gets onto the rollers which makes action stick or skip. You have
to clean the rollers, too. Inside there is still an optical sensor.
Spoked wheels rotate inside with the rollers and a LED detects that
rotation. There is play with the ball which means it may not be on a
roller to move it. Shake the balled mouse. Hear the rattle? A male
mouse (balled) can't keep up to a female mouse (ball-less) for lateral
speed if not only because of the ball's play but also due to its
inertia, especially when suddenly jerking in a different direction.

While filth (hair, dust, lint) can also get inside an optical mouse,
it's just a matter of using a pair of tweezers to remove whatever is
wavering in front of the LED to eliminate erratic sensing (it can see
that thin whisker or lint fiber fluttering in front of it).

Some mice are designed to work on either a PS/2 or USB port. They have
internal logic to differentiate the signal for each port type. All they
need is a passive adapter (USB to PS/2). Going from a USB mouse or
keyboard to a PS/2 port is easy and a passive adapter works -- as long
as the mouse was built to recognize USB versus PS/2. A USB-only mouse
will not work through a passive adapter to a PS/2 port. It's missing
the signal differentiation logic (and why it's cheap). Going from PS/2
to USB requires an active adapter (has to convert one hardware protocol
to another) and those are pricey (you could buy a dozen USB/PS2 mice for
the price). You never mention WHICH brand and model of corded mouse you
have; however, if it's so old to be a balled mouse then it probably does
not have internal signal differentiation logic to let it connect to
either a PS/2 or USB port. Likely your old balled mouse is PS/2 only.

If possible, I always get a corded [optical] mouse. I don't care to
have the batteries go weak just at the point in a game so I get killed.
I really don't want to be working on my computer and then have to
interrupt my work finding new batteries or swapping out with a
pre-charged alternate set. Everytime you open the battery compartment
in the mouse is more wear and more chance you break it (many just flex a
plastic tang). I don't want any jerky or stalled action in the mouse
(or in the keyboard, either). I get mice that have soft flexible and
thin cords so they don't put any tension on the mouse, and I leave the
area uncluttered where the cord needs to move.

But as for a balled mouse, nope, I'd toss that. Gets dirty faster, it's
harder to clean (requires dismantling to get inside to clean the
wheels), and rattles around on quick movements so it's off the rollers.
Regarding the sensing, there's no wear with female mice but male mice
always tire quicker. The slider pads, buttons, and scroll wheel
encounter the same abuse whether a male or female mouse.

Wire fatigues with bending so a wired mouse will eventually break the
strands in its cord. Have the mouse move around on a pad but keep the
end that falls over the desk in the same place. Don't have the cord
bending around speakers, telephones, or other obstructions. Have the
cord straight from the mouse to the other end (like where it falls
behind the desk to loop over to connect to the computer). While thin
flexible cords are nice to reduce tension on the mouse, thicker cords
usually last longer. However, considering the abuse a mouse gets,
you'll probably be replacing it because a mouse button (plastic tang
with a flexible plastic hinge) goes back or a switch for a button goes
bad. When I find a mouse that I like, I buy a spare. When the one I'm
using goes bad, I go to the spare and buy another as the new spare.
Alas, eventually they will no longer make the one you like and you'll
have to find a new one you like. Not since the old Northgate keyboards
can you get mice and keyboards that last and last and last (and can be
repaired, too).

As per above it's a corded mouse. Like you and a couple of others here, I'm
not interested in a cordless mouse.

But the specific model is a Microsoft Intellipoint 1.2A with a PS/2 output
connector.

So from all I've read here and there, including your and Paul's response,
it's gonna be a crapshoot as to whether or not the cheapie PS/2 to USB
adapters work or partially work, but that the pricey (more intelligent)
converters, that actually have a chip inside, can and do work.

I do recall cleaning the trackball with alcohol, but not all that often.
That said, I'm not a gamer - I'm just using the mouse for basic desktop
work. But you've got to admit these old Microsoft Intellipoint mice feel
very comfortable in the hand!

The problem is that not all compact or "mobile" mice are so identified.
Those are smaller so they don't fit into the cup of you hand. You need
to make sure to get a full-size mouse. Sometimes you can visit the
mouse maker's web site to see the specs on their mice which sometimes
include the physical dimensions. You can then compare if their mouse is
long enough for your fingers so you don't have curl back your fingers
and if the height is enough to fill the cup of your hand.