"Acquiring network address" - what gives?

Situation: cheap Dynamode router, set up for WEP in MAC restrict mode
(whitelist), about 3 yards from the two PCs.

This is how it's been for YEARS!

Suddenly, this (the XP one) loses connection, and sits there "Acquiring
network address" for ever. If I hover over the tray icon, it shows the
speed as 54.0 Mbps, and the Signal Strength as Excellent, as it should.

I have tried rebooting the router.

This machine shows sig. strength, so presumably its wifi hardware is
fine. What's more, if I use the other (7) machine to access the "Station
Info" page on the router (so the router's wifi is working fine), it
shows the two machines' MAC IDs (it shows a table with three columns:
"BSSID", which shows the MAC IDs, "Associated", which shows "Yes" for
both, and "Authorized", which shows blank for both.

And if I keep pressing "Refresh" on that router page on the 7 machine,
and disconnect this one (from the Wireless Network Connection display -
select the router's SSID and select Disconnect then yes, this XP machine
disappears from the list of "authenticated wireless stations". And if I
tell it to connect (by reticking automatic connection, which gets set to
manual when I disconnect), sure enough, it reappears in the list on the
router.

This has happened _occasionally_ in the past; usually, it sorts itself
out. Very occasionally, I reset the router or reboot this PC, and that
sorts it. I've just done that once, and it _did_ come back: but it went
again after a few minutes. I'm about to reboot this machine again: when
connection comes back, this will be posted (-:!

So: what's going on?
o the router can access the internet (I've checked, via the 7 machine)
o the router's wifi is working fine (same check proved that)
o this machine's wifi is receiving (signal strength for the router is
excellent, and it can see other nearby networks)
o this machine's wifi is transmitting (it appears in the list on the
router)

So it _seems_ the hardware is OK at both ends, and it's just something
in XP's handling of it that's gone peculiar. I haven't changed anything
in the way of settings: I was just using the web, and noticed it had
dropped out. I suppose I'll try getting a plugin wifi adapter, and in
the meantime - if it doesn't stay up after the reboot I'm about to do -
I'll use a wired connection (assuming _that_ works - I haven't used it
for years!).

(Samsung NC20 [large netbook].)
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Anyone can do any amount of work provided it isn't the work he is supposed to
be doing at the moment. -Robert Benchley, humorist, drama critic, and actor
(1889-1945)

In message , "J. P. Gilliver
(John)" writes:
[]
again after a few minutes. I'm about to reboot this machine again: when
connection comes back, this will be posted (-:!
[]
Touch wood, the connection seems to be surviving this time.

Interestingly, I watched the router status page on the other machine
while this one was rebooting; its BSSID remained in the router's
"connected" list all through "saving your settings", and "Windows is
shutting down", only disappearing when this one shut off its backlight
and fan. On coming back up, it reappaeared while the "welcome" word was
on the screen.

Hmm, still up. I would like to know what was going on though! (As I
mentioned, it does sometimes lose connection, usually coming back of its
own accord after a minute or few; I'd always assumed that was a problem
at the exchange, though now it looks as if it might be the wifi link
that's doing something odd.)
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

I admire him for the constancy of his curiosity, his effortless sense of
authority and his ability to deliver good science without gimmicks.
- Michael Palin on Sir David Attenborough, RT 2016/5/7-13

In message , "J. P. Gilliver
(John)" writes:
In message , "J. P. Gilliver
(John)" writes:
[]
again after a few minutes. I'm about to reboot this machine again:
when connection comes back, this will be posted (-:!
[]
Touch wood, the connection seems to be surviving this time.
[]
I spoke too soon )-: - it's gone again. And, plugging in a cable
connection isn't working either: it's still saying "Network connection
unplugged". If you see this post, it means a reboot has made _one_ of
them work again!
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind. - Mahatma Gandhi
(according to the film Gandhi [1982])

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
I spoke too soon )-: - it's gone again. And, plugging in a cable
connection isn't working either: it's still saying "Network connection
unplugged". If you see this post, it means a reboot has made _one_ of
them work again!

One thing that can make for erratic behavior, besides a hardware problem
in the machine which is acting up intermittently, is a 'non-terminated'
ethernet cable, such as an ethernet cable connected to the router or a
switch thereof which 'goes off' yonder but is not connected to anything
on the other end.

--
Mike Easter

In message , Mike Easter
writes:
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
I spoke too soon )-: - it's gone again. And, plugging in a cable
connection isn't working either: it's still saying "Network connection
unplugged". If you see this post, it means a reboot has made _one_ of
them work again!

One thing that can make for erratic behavior, besides a hardware
problem in the machine which is acting up intermittently, is a
'non-terminated' ethernet cable, such as an ethernet cable connected to
the router or a switch thereof which 'goes off' yonder but is not
connected to anything on the other end.

Thanks. I hadn't changed any cabling for months (years, I think) when
the wifi link started playing up. I've tried two different cables; I
think the ethernet port (on this machine) may have dust in it. (When
I've been saying "router", I've been meaning "combined ADSL MoDem and
wifi/wired switch"; it's a box that connects to the 'phone line, and
gives me wifi and wired connections.)

I've just done a system restore to four days ago; we'll see if that
stops the wifi failing soon after reboot. (The cable connection still
isn't being seen.)
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

The main and the most glorious achievement of television is that it is killing
the art of conversation. If we think of the type of conversation television is
helping to kill, our gratitude must be undying. (George Mikes, "How to be
Inimitable" [1960].)

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
This machine shows sig. strength, so presumably its wifi hardware is fine.

Well... not exactly. The wifi 'gizmo' is a radio and a network adapter
WNIC, either 'part' of which can break or actup. In the case of
ethernet NIC, it is extremely common for the network adapter to break
and act up. So, similarly, your wifi radio could be working and its
network interface controller part be faulty.

--
Mike Easter

In message , Mike Easter
writes:
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
This machine shows sig. strength, so presumably its wifi hardware is fine.

Well... not exactly. The wifi 'gizmo' is a radio and a network adapter
WNIC, either 'part' of which can break or actup. In the case of
ethernet NIC, it is extremely common for the network adapter to break
and act up. So, similarly, your wifi radio could be working and its
network interface controller part be faulty.

Well, currently running having done a restore to four days ago, and so
far, touch wood, it's holding up longer than any of the previous times.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Abandon hope, all ye who ENTER here.

J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
In message , Mike Easter writes:
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
I spoke too soon )-: - it's gone again. And, plugging in a cable
connection isn't working either: it's still saying "Network connection
unplugged". If you see this post, it means a reboot has made _one_ of
them work again!

One thing that can make for erratic behavior, besides a hardware problem in the machine
which is acting up intermittently, is a 'non-terminated' ethernet cable, such as an
ethernet cable connected to the router or a switch thereof which 'goes off' yonder but
is not connected to anything on the other end.

Thanks. I hadn't changed any cabling for months (years, I think) when the wifi link
started playing up. I've tried two different cables; I think the ethernet port (on this
machine) may have dust in it. (When I've been saying "router", I've been meaning "combined
ADSL MoDem and wifi/wired switch"; it's a box that connects to the 'phone line, and gives
me wifi and wired connections.)

I've just done a system restore to four days ago; we'll see if that stops the wifi failing
soon after reboot. (The cable connection still isn't being seen.)

I've never had a modem / router or separate modem and router last more than 2.5 years.
They get flaky and it's difficult to tell if it;s the router or computer(s).

Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I've never had a modem / router or separate modem and router last more
than 2.5 years.

Quite some years ago, Win95 days, cable modems were bigger and got much
hotter and didn't last long. My provider had to replace it regularly.
Those years I couldn't own my own and also there was no monthly fee for
the modem.

These days my cable modem is smaller and cooler and has lasted for years
and years. Likewise my low priced router.

But... if I don't have a spare router on hand 'at all times' I watch
carefully for router sales and buy one 'in advance' to have a spare.
The price of routers on sale is much cheaper than having to buy a router
when you have to have it.

--
Mike Easter

Mike Easter wrote:
Quite some years ago, Win95 days, cable modems were bigger and got much
hotter and didn't last long.

Apparently the time period with the most cable modem replacements was
more like Win98 days. I'm reading that the SurfBoard series starting
with 2100 was by General Instrument in 1997, then 3100 in 1999, then
Motorola acquired GI in 2000 and started releasing newer versions.

Arris acquired the Motorola Home Division in 2013 including the SurfBoards.

My replaced cable modems were Motorolas.

http://www.surfboard.com/wp-content/...ion_082715.pdf

--
Mike Easter

Mike Easter wrote:
Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I've never had a modem / router or separate modem and router last more
than 2.5 years.

Quite some years ago, Win95 days, cable modems were bigger and got much hotter and didn't
last long. My provider had to replace it regularly. Those years I couldn't own my own and
also there was no monthly fee for the modem.

These days my cable modem is smaller and cooler and has lasted for years and years.
Likewise my low priced router.

But... if I don't have a spare router on hand 'at all times' I watch carefully for router
sales and buy one 'in advance' to have a spare. The price of routers on sale is much
cheaper than having to buy a router when you have to have it.

I started leaving the covers off and gluing heat sinks made out of sanded down
beer can pieces to all the chips. It seems to help. No RFI so far.

Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I started leaving the covers off and gluing heat sinks made out of
sanded down beer can pieces to all the chips.

Beer can pieces because they are very thin aluminum?

What is your choice of a heat conductive glue for that?

drifting OT
Which reminds me; when trying to find an electrically conductive 'gel'
such as for auto battery terminals, I'm understanding that many advisors
are misguided about the concept of 'dielectric' grease, which is not
very conductive at all.


--
Mike Easter

Mike Easter wrote:
Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I started leaving the covers off and gluing heat sinks made out of
sanded down beer can pieces to all the chips.

Beer can pieces because they are very thin aluminum?

Yah, beer cans are great for fabricating thin aluminum parts.

What is your choice of a heat conductive glue for that?

drifting OT
Which reminds me; when trying to find an electrically conductive 'gel' such as for auto
battery terminals, I'm understanding that many advisors are misguided about the concept of
'dielectric' grease, which is not very conductive at all.

I have several tubes of no-name white heat sink compound, industrial version.
It's thick enough to hold the Alum pieces on and dries out somewhat in a few days.
We use silicone grease on every scada connection. Would soon have system
failures without it.

Paul in Houston TX wrote:
Mike Easter wrote:
Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I started leaving the covers off and gluing heat sinks made out of
sanded down beer can pieces to all the chips.

Beer can pieces because they are very thin aluminum?

Yah, beer cans are great for fabricating thin aluminum parts.

What is your choice of a heat conductive glue for that?

drifting OT
Which reminds me; when trying to find an electrically conductive 'gel'
such as for auto
battery terminals, I'm understanding that many advisors are misguided
about the concept of
'dielectric' grease, which is not very conductive at all.

I have several tubes of no-name white heat sink compound, industrial
version.
It's thick enough to hold the Alum pieces on and dries out somewhat in a
few days.
We use silicone grease on every scada connection. Would soon have system
failures without it.


If you need to do this again, there is thermal epoxy.
It's a two component epoxy, with boron nitride particles
or similar mixed into it for thermal conduction. It is
a *permanent* glue, so don't apply it to the top of an IC,
unless you never ever plan on removing it again.

This would be the overkill version. (You might use
something like this for RAMSinks on a video card, if
the sinks keep falling off.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA9VM3MK3470

There is a claim by some, that you can mix thermal paste
and regular epoxy, to both weaken the epoxy (make it
"less permanent") as well as encouraging thermal conduction.
You won't catch me doing that :-) Five minute epoxy sets
too quickly, to mix all that crap together intelligently and
get a uniform mix.

You can also get extruded 40mm heatsinks. These should
really be dirt cheap, but some suppliers insist on
charging a fortune. A wide fin spacing is good for
convection applications, while a narrow spacing works
well with fan-cooled setups.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA4SR2C16043

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA27C3GT7851

At one time, they even made heatsinks like that with a heat
pipe in them. The result was a much taller heatsink, able to
help with 10W loads.

I've even assembled one item here, with thermal paste
in the center (where the parts touch), followed by a
retaining ring and regular two-part epoxy around
the outside edge. That way, the epoxy could be the
cheaper regular epoxy, and the paste portion didn't
need to hold the work in place. That was for some
LED lighting, with a tall heatsink bonded to the
back side of the LED assembly. The project also used
screws, but the whole thing was pretty wobbly, and the
epoxy fixed that.

Paul

Paul wrote:
Paul in Houston TX wrote:
Mike Easter wrote:
Paul in Houston TX wrote:
I started leaving the covers off and gluing heat sinks made out of
sanded down beer can pieces to all the chips.

Beer can pieces because they are very thin aluminum?

Yah, beer cans are great for fabricating thin aluminum parts.

What is your choice of a heat conductive glue for that?

drifting OT
Which reminds me; when trying to find an electrically conductive 'gel' such as for auto
battery terminals, I'm understanding that many advisors are misguided about the concept of
'dielectric' grease, which is not very conductive at all.

I have several tubes of no-name white heat sink compound, industrial version.
It's thick enough to hold the Alum pieces on and dries out somewhat in a few days.
We use silicone grease on every scada connection. Would soon have system
failures without it.


If you need to do this again, there is thermal epoxy.
It's a two component epoxy, with boron nitride particles
or similar mixed into it for thermal conduction. It is
a *permanent* glue, so don't apply it to the top of an IC,
unless you never ever plan on removing it again.

This would be the overkill version. (You might use
something like this for RAMSinks on a video card, if
the sinks keep falling off.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA9VM3MK3470

There is a claim by some, that you can mix thermal paste
and regular epoxy, to both weaken the epoxy (make it
"less permanent") as well as encouraging thermal conduction.
You won't catch me doing that :-) Five minute epoxy sets
too quickly, to mix all that crap together intelligently and
get a uniform mix.

You can also get extruded 40mm heatsinks. These should
really be dirt cheap, but some suppliers insist on
charging a fortune. A wide fin spacing is good for
convection applications, while a narrow spacing works
well with fan-cooled setups.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA4SR2C16043

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA27C3GT7851

At one time, they even made heatsinks like that with a heat
pipe in them. The result was a much taller heatsink, able to
help with 10W loads.

I've even assembled one item here, with thermal paste
in the center (where the parts touch), followed by a
retaining ring and regular two-part epoxy around
the outside edge. That way, the epoxy could be the
cheaper regular epoxy, and the paste portion didn't
need to hold the work in place. That was for some
LED lighting, with a tall heatsink bonded to the
back side of the LED assembly. The project also used
screws, but the whole thing was pretty wobbly, and the
epoxy fixed that.

Paul

Thanks Paul.
Good advice that I will remember (and write down).