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#16
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Need to find drive with bad block
Event Viewer: "The device, \Device\Harddisk0\DR0, has a bad block." Got a Windows 10 BSOD, possibly from writing to a bad block. It should not happen on a write, but on a read. The disk firmware, when asked to write on a bad sector, writes instead on a reserved spare sector and maps it, so that the computer never sees that bad sector again (assuming the spare area is not spent). On the other hand, a read would fail. Thanks for the info Carlos E.R. My disk passes all tests now after using Seagate SeaTools Bootable USB. |
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#17
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Need to find drive with bad block
I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice. No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. |
#18
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Need to find drive with bad block
On 2018-12-05 8:37 p.m., Wolf K wrote:
On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote: I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable.Â* The Windows tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice. No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer.Â* Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same models may well be different internally. In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately, and backup all your data to it immediately. In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the absolute worst in hard disk reliability. That said, I had a WD Blue drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower. That said, avoid ADATA at all costs. What junk. -- SilverSlimer Minds: @silverslimer |
#19
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Need to find drive with bad block
Wolf K wrote:
On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote: I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice. No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same models may well be different internally. In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately, and backup all your data to it immediately. In the comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware-storage.newsgroup, Linda McGuire posts results from Backblaze, a large data storage provider, regarding their reliability of thousands of HDDs. For example: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/2018-...failure-rates/ Their charts don't list every model they've used. Yep, some Seagate models have lower reliability than others but even a WDC model was even worse. Some models of some brands are made at the same plant; i.e., to provide disaster recovery (earthquakes, floods, tsunamis, etc), they co-locate some production with other brands (i.e., shared plants that produce more than one brand). The HGST brand usually gets high reliability ratings than WDC-branded drives but HGST is a division of WDC (a merger of IBM and Hitachi and later the storage division acquired by WDC). WDC also acquired SanDisk. Seagate's Lacie division sells better performing units (better and more rigidly tested) at a price premium. Google also employ thousands of HDD in their services but I've not seen them publish their failure statistics. With consolidation of manufacture, it can be tough to know just who made what. |
#20
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Need to find drive with bad block
In article , SilverSlimer
wrote: In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the absolute worst in hard disk reliability. except the ones where it isn't. seagate did have some issues, especially with the 1.5 & 3 tb drives, but so has every other drive maker at one time or another. all hard drives fail. the question is when, not if. That said, I had a WD Blue drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower. although ssds are more reliable than mechanical hard drives, they too are not perfect and can fail without warning. back up everything at least once, ideally multiple times (and test each one), so when a drive fails, it's an easy replace and restore. |
#21
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Need to find drive with bad block
SilverSlimer wrote:
On 2018-12-05 8:37 p.m., Wolf K wrote: On 2018-12-05 19:52, M.L. wrote: I downloaded SeaTools for Windows and SeaTools Bootable. The Windows tool notified me of failure but couldn't fix the errors causing the fail. It suggested creating and using a SeaTools Bootable USB disk which is capable of fixing errors. I ran the same tests with the bootable USB and all tests passed after their scan fix. I want to thank you VanguardLH and all those who replied with advice. No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same models may well be different internally. In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately, and backup all your data to it immediately. In absolutely _every_ independent test, Seagate is shown to be the absolute worst in hard disk reliability. That said, I had a WD Blue drive go bad on me after eight months so I guess there's no such thing as quality anymore. I'd recommend that anyone just go with an SSD regardless of the fact that the storage space is lower. That said, avoid ADATA at all costs. What junk. Seagate varies from model to model, and generation to generation. I have good Seagate drives here, and "definite mistake" drives. The solution is simple. Read the customer reviews and see what they say. While the noise level in the reviews can be high, you can receive some good intelligence from them. Paul |
#22
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Need to find drive with bad block
No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that. How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my original Win 8.1 product key. I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home? Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same models may well be different internally. In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately, and backup all your data to it immediately. Good luck, |
#23
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Need to find drive with bad block
On 06/12/2018 08.35, M.L. wrote:
No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that. How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my original Win 8.1 product key. Clone the disk with imaging software. I will not say which to use because I do that with Linux dd, or with the clonezilla disk. Windows uses a "Disk identifier" parameter which can also be cloned and keeps Windows happy (or directly edited). Of course, if the new disk is larger then you have to expand the partitions after the clone. I did that recently, replacing a 500 GB rotating rust with 1000 GB SSD (to add dual boot) and Windows 10 did not complain. -- Cheers, Carlos. |
#24
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Need to find drive with bad block
M.L. wrote:
No mention in your opening post as to the frequency of the reported bad block in the Event Viewer. Was the frequency so often that now after using SeaTools that you are sure the error cause has gone away? I had another bad block experience about 3 months ago. I had to run chkdsk 4 times to get rid of all faults. If things get worse I'll replace my HD. Looks like I can get a new 500 GB SATA for $30 at Walmart. But restoring Windows 10 Home authentication from my original Windows 8.0 key might be difficult. Replace that HDD ASAP. Ok, but I'm really not looking forward to that. How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my original Win 8.1 product key. I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home? Research HDD brands and current models, past reliability is not a good guide to current models. FWIW, I've had good experience with Seagate and Western Digital. Others here will no doubt have different preferences. In any case, models vary, and different production runs of the same models may well be different internally. In nay case, I strongly suggest you buy an external drive immediately, and backup all your data to it immediately. Good luck, The computer that previously had Windows 10 Home on it, will *automatically* re-activate if you choose to clean install the OS and nuke any previous content. When the Win10 install runs, it gathers up the serial number of the machine and sends it to the server. The server says "yes, I've seen this machine before, here is your license". The server keeps a record of your existence. Where problems might arise would be: 1) The machine has seen several Win10 licenses. You might need to enter a key to "convince" the machine, which license you really want activated. 2) On a desktop, you change so much hardware, the "serial number method" no longer works properly. The NIC on a motherboard, is a key component of the serial number method, and changing the motherboard out and replacing it with something else, might require communications with Microsoft support. If you're doing the simplest thing in the world, which is inserting your verified-good-burn of Windows 10 DVD into the laptop drive, and installing on a new hard drive you just installed, it's going to go easy as pie :-) I won't even need to write a procedure for you :-) You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft server already knows who you are, and what license key it is. By generating the key during your previous Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this install to be "easy as pie". ******* If you "clone" the old hard drive to the new hard drive, that could work too. If you get the new hard drive to boot, you can do a Repair install, keeping user data and installed programs. For example, if you download a 17763 DVD today (1809), you mount the ISO using the right-click mount option of the ISO file, then run Setup.exe off the virtual CD drive letter that pops up. And that kicks off the Repair install. For a person who owns only a single laptop, when it comes time to "clone" to a new hard drive, it helps to have either a USB enclosure for the new hard drive, or have a USB thumb drive big enough to hold a backup of the internal disk image, for restore to the new hard drive when it's installed in the laptop drive bay. Based on your attempts to get a good deal on a drive, I don't know if you'll be wanting to fork out more money for enough kit to clone over the old image. USB thumb drives come in convenient sizes up to 128GB. That might not be big enough to hold all the files off your old 500GB rotating drive. You need to do "Properties" on the partition, look at the pie chart, and see how much of the partition is used. $20, but will be slow (Cruzer is the slowest they make) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820173057 128GB USB thumb drive Cruzer - agonizingly slow Ultra - slow Extreme - good $200 for a 512GB thumb drive (it's really an SSD inside) https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820236343 512GB USB thumb drive Anything that size, it becomes cheaper to buy a USB to SATA cable and a cheap SSD drive to use as a replacement for a USB key, as USB thumb drives above 128GB are likely to be pricey. You pay a premium for packaging at that point, as a USB key needs to stay skinny, while an SSD drive, the PCB inside hardly fills the metal shell. To fill the PCB, you'd need an SSD with 16 chips on it, 8 chips per side. A lot of cheap SSDs today, only have 1,2,4 chips inside. For example, I use one of these with my SSD. I can make a 512GB USB stick this way. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16812400542 This is the current scratch drive I bought to go with it. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820167429 This one would be a better choice, as the listed power is below 2.5W and so the USB3 cable could be powered from a USB2 laptop port. USB2 ports provide up to 5V @ 500mA, which runs some SSDs, but you could have trouble spinning up some brands of 5V @ 1A 2.5" rotating hard drives. Instead of paying $200 for the Corsair product (nice as it is), I can duplicate it with a $70 SSD and a $30 or less cable. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...82E16820242401 As long as you can figure out how to make a storage device or adapter to move the data, you can do stuff like this. 1) Clone with Macrium Reflectfree laptop with old HDD Inside ---------- USB cable -------- powered enclosure with new rotating HDD 2) Backup with Macrium Reflectfree Assumes large enough external storage is available. laptop with old HDD Inside ---------- USB cable ------- USB thumbdrive or SSD on a USB cable or other external storage After installing the new HDD inside the laptop, do a restore with Macrium ReflectFree. laptop with new HDD Inside --------- USB cable -------- USB thumbdrive or SSD on a USB cable or other external storage After you've done (1) or (2), you can do a Repair install if you want, with the new hard drive sitting in the laptop drive bay. The purpose of the Repair install, would only be if you thought some system files had been damaged by the bad block problem. If the bad blocks only ruined data files, a Repair install wouldn't be necessary. It depends on how much "junk" you currently own, as to what you can do, or how easy it will be to do. I don't have any idea as to what you've got - even a second computer and some "file sharing" on that second computer, might be enough to transfer over the info, with nothing more than a LAN cable you already own and are using right now. https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree # free for home users HTH, Paul |
#25
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Need to find drive with bad block
How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my original Win 8.1 product key. I have Macrium Reflect WinPE on a bootable USB. Could I take a Macrium snapshot of my current drive image to restore it onto a new HD of the same size? Will I have to re-authenticate my Windows 10 Home? The computer that previously had Windows 10 Home on it, will *automatically* re-activate if you choose to clean install the OS and nuke any previous content. Good to know. Thanks for your detailed response. When the Win10 install runs, it gathers up the serial number of the machine and sends it to the server. The server says "yes, I've seen this machine before, here is your license". The server keeps a record of your existence. If you're doing the simplest thing in the world, which is inserting your verified-good-burn of Windows 10 DVD into the laptop drive... My only choices are a recent Macrium Reflect image stored on my external USB HD, or to download the current Windows 10 Home ISO for a bootable USB Repair install. You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft server already knows who you are, and what license key it is. By generating the key during your previous Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this install to be "easy as pie". How will Microsoft know who I am? Will I need to enter my Microsoft username and password first? If you "clone" the old hard drive to the new hard drive, that could work too. If you get the new hard drive to boot, you can do a Repair install, keeping user data and installed programs. For example, if you download a 17763 DVD today (1809), you mount the ISO using the right-click mount option of the ISO file, then run Setup.exe off the virtual CD drive letter that pops up. And that kicks off the Repair install. For a person who owns only a single laptop, when it comes time to "clone" to a new hard drive, it helps to have either a USB enclosure for the new hard drive, or have a USB thumb drive big enough to hold a backup of the internal disk image, for restore to the new hard drive when it's installed in the laptop drive bay. Yes, I have an external USB HD for storing the latest Macrium Reflect C: drive images. I'm going to take another image snapshot tonight. I plan on buying a HD of the same size and will image the entire HD with all partitions intact. |
#26
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Need to find drive with bad block
In article , M.L.
wrote: You won't need MagicalJellyBean either. The Microsoft server already knows who you are, and what license key it is. By generating the key during your previous Windows 10 Home upgrade, you're now all set. Your previous Win10 install, laid the groundwork for this install to be "easy as pie". How will Microsoft know who I am? Will I need to enter my Microsoft username and password first? entitlements, and no. swap the drive and don't worry about it. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12440/windows-10-activation |
#27
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Need to find drive with bad block
How will I get my Windows 10 Home authenticated again? I only have my original Win 8.1 product key. Clone the disk with imaging software... Windows uses a "Disk identifier" parameter which can also be cloned and keeps Windows happy (or directly edited). Of course, if the new disk is larger then you have to expand the partitions after the clone. I did that recently, replacing a 500 GB rotating rust with 1000 GB SSD (to add dual boot) and Windows 10 did not complain. I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of the entire HD |
#28
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Need to find drive with bad block
In article , M.L.
wrote: I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of the entire HD replace it with an ssd. the speed improvement will be dramatic. |
#30
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Need to find drive with bad block
On Thu, 06 Dec 2018 18:48:12 -0600, M.L. wrote:
I plan to replace the 500GB drive with the same size and type. I'm going to first try using Macrium Reflect Free to create an image of the entire HD I'd replace the drive with an SSD and then use Macrium Reflect to clone the old drive to the new one. Then shut down and immediately remove the old drive and allow it to boot from the new one and you should be good to go. -- Regards - Rodney Pont The from address exists but is mostly dumped, please send any emails to the address below e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com |
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