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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her
needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. Behaviour is the same with: only either one of the two RAM modules present; HDD removed. I've dismantled the unit as far as I am willing to, and no sign of loose or damaged connectors or any distress (charring etc.); just reconnecting power-button board and keyboard while in that state, and after reassembling whole machine - no difference. Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. (I did Google; the most promising was suggested by more than one, and one called it something like an "ATX reset", being to hold the power button in for 30-45 seconds; I did that with and without battery/ext. power connected, with no change.) It had been running W7 fine - home premium, upgraded from Vista before my eyes using proper upgrade discs (which I still have) when I bought it about 5 years ago we think - but that's _probably_ irrelevant (so OT for here) as it behaves identically with the hard disc absent. -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf "A great many people think they are thinking when they are merely rearranging their prejudices." - William James |
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#2
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
"J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote:
For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) Although a backlamp is used to shine through the LCD panel, you can also take a bright flashlight and shine it onto the outside of the LCD panel. If you can see a screen image using the flashlight, the LCD panel is getting the signal but the backlamp(s) is(are) broken. While they can be replaced by the user, that requires disassembling the case, some soldering skill, and a replacement backlamp kit with the correct bulbs. Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. Does the laptop have a VGA port for an external monitor hook up? If so, try that to see if video is working. You may have to hit an Fn key combo to toggle on/off the external video output. The laptop manual should tell you how to use the external video port. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. 4 seconds is the standard delay when holding the Power button to forcibly kill the OS and make the hardware force a power off. Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. You might find Youtube videos on that model or similar ones so you can see how to dismantle the case to get at the backlamps (if that is the problem as exposed by using the flashlight). There are also Youtube videos on how to replace the backlamps. While there you might as well as also replace the inverter. When the backlamps begin to fail, they draw more current which taxes the inverter. You could end up going through all the work to replace just the backlamps and then soon later end up having to do the inverter, too, which means having to dismantle and reassemble the mess again. I forget the place but I did find a shop that would list the laptop brand and model and sell replacement kits for the backlamps. They didn't just sell the bulbs. They also include a small coil of solder, butyl tape (sometimes used to hold the bulbs in place), some other tape (forget what it was for but disassembling around the LCD panel results in having to peel off some tape that obviously won't stick as well when reused). They would even list replacement kits that used bulbs that drew less current but output more light (i.e., they were more efficient) so you'd have a brighter display. I'd have to search again to find that place. However, by the time I looked at the price for the backlamp kit, and because my model had 4 bulbs (top, bottom, both sides) instead of just on the 2 sides, it was more cost than worth it to me. You might give the unit away on Craigslist. I've seen some folks that buy this stuff and fix it to donate to a charity or low income folks. It's a hobby while satisfying their urge to help others. Some may take the laptop off your hands just to add to their inventory of spare parts. In any case, you don't have to haul it to your local hazardous waste recycle center to get rid of it. In my case, there was no gradual dimming of the bulbs to let me know they were going bad and would eventually die. One day the screen just went poof: all black. Not even the BIOS POS screen showed up. I suspect the inverter blew to cause the instantaneous outage. However, if I was going through all the dismantling to get at the inverter then I might as well as replace the bulbs while I was right there. I was actually using the old laptop as a temporary substitute when my desktop went poof (mobo problem). After rebuilding the desktop, I didn't need the laptop anymore and its hardware was too old and slow to bother fixing. Got rid of it on Craigslist (to a guy does the repairs and then donates). |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
In message , Wolf K
writes: On 2017-01-03 18:56, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote: For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. [etc] Could your friend have hit the key combination that turns off the screen and turns on the an external monitor? Its age suggests it has a VGA or DVI plug, if so, there are likely 3 settings, a) laptop screen only; b) external screen only; c) both screens. HTH Thanks, but I don't think so: o we tried with an external monitor connected to the VGA out (no signal) o I tried the Fn-+-F-key combination many times o we don't get Windows _sounds_ either. (I think most laptops use their internal screen anyway _during boot_, don't they?) -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Less rules means fewer grammar? - Marjorie in UMRA, 2014-1-28 13:14 |
#4
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) snip The specs say it has a LED backlight. While LEDs could fail, or the thing could be using PWM to control LED intensity (and PWM is broken), generally speaking the backlight should be much more reliable than CCFL based tech. A POST code reader would be nice, but I don't know if they make such a thing for a laptop. POST codes are progress codes, not error codes. Each time a new section of BIOS code is about to execute, a code is written to a certain address in I/O space. The device is "mostly useless" in that it doesn't diagnose anything, and only rarely does knowing the beginning of which subroutine is failing, tell you what the problem is. Most people stare at these, just to check for activity. A "frozen" value of 0x00 or 0xff generally means the CPU is not able to run. And if the unit was overheating on THERMTRIP, the LEDs would probably all get turned off in a couple seconds. Paul |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
In message , VanguardLH
writes: [] Although a backlamp is used to shine through the LCD panel, you can also take a bright flashlight and shine it onto the outside of the LCD panel. If you can see a screen image using the flashlight, the LCD panel is getting the signal but the backlamp(s) is(are) broken. While they can While I didn't do the actual flashlight bit, I did think this, and watched the screen carefully - I think I'd have seen _something_. And, the fact that we got no Windows sounds makes me think it is more than just the video that's dead. be replaced by the user, that requires disassembling the case, some soldering skill, and a replacement backlamp kit with the correct bulbs. I can solder. Though the last machine I repaired (granted, something more like a 13" than a 17"), the backlights and panel were all one sealed unit. Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. Does the laptop have a VGA port for an external monitor hook up? If so, try that to see if video is working. You may have to hit an Fn key Tried that - monitor said it was receiving no signal. combo to toggle on/off the external video output. The laptop manual Sometimes cycle round internal, external, both (not necessarily in that order). should tell you how to use the external video port. I don't have the manual to hand, but identified the F key (4 IIRR) from the blue legend on it. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. 4 seconds is the standard delay when holding the Power button to forcibly kill the OS and make the hardware force a power off. So you're saying that's implemented in hardware? Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. You might find Youtube videos on that model or similar ones so you can see how to dismantle the case to get at the backlamps (if that is the problem as exposed by using the flashlight). There are also Youtube videos on how to replace the backlamps. While there you might as well as also replace the inverter. When the backlamps begin to fail, they draw more current which taxes the inverter. You could end up going through all the work to replace just the backlamps and then soon later end up having to do the inverter, too, which means having to dismantle and reassemble the mess again. Agreed re the inverter. But lack of sounds made me think it wasn't worth pursuing that aspect. I forget the place but I did find a shop that would list the laptop brand and model and sell replacement kits for the backlamps. They didn't just sell the bulbs. They also include a small coil of solder, butyl tape (sometimes used to hold the bulbs in place), some other tape (forget what it was for but disassembling around the LCD panel results in having to peel off some tape that obviously won't stick as well when reused). They would even list replacement kits that used bulbs that drew less current but output more light (i.e., they were more efficient) so you'd have a brighter display. I'd have to search again to find that place. Sounds useful, though probably USA only, However, by the time I looked at the price for the backlamp kit, and because my model had 4 bulbs (top, bottom, both sides) instead of just on the 2 sides, it was more cost than worth it to me. You might give the unit away on Craigslist. I've seen some folks that buy this stuff and fix it to donate to a charity or low income folks. (I doubt it'd be worth their time in this case.) It's a hobby while satisfying their urge to help others. Some may take My hobby too (I'll spend more time than is worth it fixing the most cheap piece of junk, if I think I _can_ fix it); however, in this case, I really don't think it is worth the effort )-:. the laptop off your hands just to add to their inventory of spare parts. In any case, you don't have to haul it to your local hazardous waste recycle center to get rid of it. Definitely not going to do that! (Not yet, anyway.) [] -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Radio 4 is the civilising influence in this country ... I think it is the most important institution in this country. - John Humphrys, Radio Times 7-13/06/2003 |
#6
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
"J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote:
VanguardLH WROTE: be replaced by the user, that requires disassembling the case, some soldering skill, and a replacement backlamp kit with the correct bulbs. I can solder. Though the last machine I repaired (granted, something more like a 13" than a 17"), the backlights and panel were all one sealed unit. Well, sealed, sort of. It can be disassembled but typically that destroys something, like the tape that I mentioned included when you buy a backlamp kit instead of just the bulbs. Quite often the entire LCD assembly is replaced instead of repairing its components but that is more expensive; however, it's more likely the whole unit will work then hoping your internal repairs went okay. It's been a couple years since I checked out getting a kit or the whole LCD panel but recall the price difference was about twice the cost for a built and tested LCD panel assembly (well, a new one since I wasn't looking at refurbished/rebuilt units). Does the laptop have a VGA port for an external monitor hook up? If so, try that to see if video is working. You may have to hit an Fn key Tried that - monitor said it was receiving no signal. combo to toggle on/off the external video output. The laptop manual Sometimes cycle round internal, external, both (not necessarily in that order). Ah, crap. Then it sounds like something more dire, like a chipset (video chip) problem or power supply problem either one of which requires major surgery of the mobo or its replacement (although the power PCB might be separate of the mobo). 4 seconds is the standard delay when holding the Power button to forcibly kill the OS and make the hardware force a power off. So you're saying that's implemented in hardware? BIOS will force a power shutoff when the Power switch is held for 4 seconds. That was one of the added features of moving away from the old AT style power supplies (which had a directly hardwired switch) to the ATX style power supplies (which use a momentary switch to logic on the mobo). Since there was no direct connection to the power supply to force a disconnect of power, logic had to get added to allow the same action. Sometimes hardware can hang in a state that makes the OS or apps unusable so a forced powered off is still required. lack of sounds made me think it wasn't worth pursuing that aspect. Hmm, with the flashlight, have you tried a cold boot to see if there were any error messages signaled to the screen? How old is the laptop? Regardless of style of computer, batteries eventually go bad. The CMOS battery is typically a lithium wafer (or coin cell) battery. They tend to show weakness after 3 years and typically die after 5 to 6 years. That means there is no power to maintain the integrity of the BIOS settings copied into CMOS. Lack of battery power means the CMOS table could get corrupted which means you have to reset the BIOS to force a new copy of its settings into the CMOS table, but that won't work unless the CMOS has battery power. Replacing the CMOS battery can be a real bitch on some laptop mobos. The coin cell battery is often on the top of the mobo (under the keyboard) but requires dismantling the case to remove the mobo to get at the battery. Even if the battery is on the bottom of the mobo, there may not be a removable access panel in the case to get at it. I know one guy that ended up cutting the bottom panel of the case to create an access hole to get at the battery (after having to do the dismantle to replace it) and then reused the cutout plastic along with some epoxied tangs to put it back into place (so there wasn't a big hole left in the bottom of the case). As I recall, you said the laptop had been shoved into storage for many years. Well, besides the main lithium batteries going bad (but you can buy and replace those easily), the CMOS battery goes bad, too. I've not personally owned a laptop that long so am not sure how to do a CMOS reset (clear the CMOS table and force the BIOS to reload its settings into the CMOS table - the settings the hardware uses are from the CMOS table, not directly read from [EE]PROM where is the BIOS) on a laptop. Maybe you just remove the main batteries, disconnect from A/C power, remove the CMOS battery, and wait several minutes or maybe hours to be sure, then install a new CMOS battery and either use main batteries or A/C power to boot to get the BIOS to copy its settings into the CMOS table. http://www.howtogeek.com/131623/how-...bios-settings/ I'm not sure it is a CMOS table corruption. My thinking is that some video setting in the table is corrupted so there is no usable video output. If you're going to putz around with the laptop as an experiment, well, lithium coin cells are cheap (much cheaper if you find an authentic reseller of them at eBay rather than those selling expired or fake branded products). I just bought a 20 pack of authentic Sony's (there are articles on how to tell real from fake) that expire in 2024 for $7.35 which is about what you pay for just 1 or maybe a 2-pack at a retail store (seller was swimteam1987). You might give the unit away on Craigslist. I've seen some folks that buy this stuff and fix it to donate to a charity or low income folks. (I doubt it'd be worth their time in this case.) Some folks bang on keyboards pretty hard so they need a replacement. A working but used one would be a lot cheaper. That's just one example of getting a broken laptop to part it out. Just because a chip or LCD panel doesn't work doesn't mean the rest of it is useless. I've bought and replace the computer in my car which was a lot cheaper then buying a whole new car just because the computer had a burnt out resistor. |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. Behaviour is the same with: only either one of the two RAM modules present; HDD removed. I've dismantled the unit as far as I am willing to, and no sign of loose or damaged connectors or any distress (charring etc.); just reconnecting power-button board and keyboard while in that state, and after reassembling whole machine - no difference. Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. (I did Google; the most promising was suggested by more than one, and one called it something like an "ATX reset", being to hold the power button in for 30-45 seconds; I did that with and without battery/ext. power connected, with no change.) It had been running W7 fine - home premium, upgraded from Vista before my eyes using proper upgrade discs (which I still have) when I bought it about 5 years ago we think - but that's _probably_ irrelevant (so OT for here) as it behaves identically with the hard disc absent. My Lenovo T410 did exactly the same as yours last year. It's 7 yrs old. Researching possibilities on the web I found that laptops in general tend to break the vid cable due to flexing - opening and closing the lid. So, decided to take a chance on a new OEM cable from Ebay for $15 including shipping. Took me a few hours to put it in but it did the job. I use the T410 as a backup for the main laptop. |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
On 1/3/2017 5:56 PM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. Behaviour is the same with: only either one of the two RAM modules present; HDD removed. I've dismantled the unit as far as I am willing to, and no sign of loose or damaged connectors or any distress (charring etc.); just reconnecting power-button board and keyboard while in that state, and after reassembling whole machine - no difference. Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. (I did Google; the most promising was suggested by more than one, and one called it something like an "ATX reset", being to hold the power button in for 30-45 seconds; I did that with and without battery/ext. power connected, with no change.) It had been running W7 fine - home premium, upgraded from Vista before my eyes using proper upgrade discs (which I still have) when I bought it about 5 years ago we think - but that's _probably_ irrelevant (so OT for here) as it behaves identically with the hard disc absent. Here are a few things I don't think I have seen tried on your laptop yet. Try removing the laptop battery (and leave it out) and see if it will power on with the AC power adapter only as the power source. Some laptops will not power on if the battery is nothing more than a dead short. Remove all the RAM and clean the contacts with a clean pencil eraser and see if the laptop will boot after replacing the RAM. Some laptops will not power on or act like yours if the BIOS battery is defective. From looking at replacement motherboards on Ebay it looks like your laptop has a replaceable BIOS battery (CR2032) on the back of motherboard. Those batteries only have a shelf life of 5 years from date of their manufacturer, not the date the laptop was sold. Try booting with a Windows install CD/DVD in the drive, assuming the laptop is setup to boot from a CD. If the screen comes up that usually indicated a defective hard drive or the laptop has forgotten (BIOS) how to read it. I've even had hard drives get physically stuck when left on a shelf for a year or so and refuse to spin at all unless they received a quick rap with a screw driver, with the power off. Not something I'd recommend unless you have a stethoscope and can hear the beast not spin up. |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
glowingblu8658 wrote:
Try removing the laptop battery (and leave it out) and see if it will power on with the AC power adapter only as the power source. Some laptops will not power on if the battery is nothing more than a dead short. Yep, I've run into those but they were pretty old. I've run into some old models where they would not boot if the main battery was missing, too, probably because the battery was used as a large filtering capacitor. Remove all the RAM and clean the contacts with a clean pencil eraser and see if the laptop will boot after replacing the RAM. Never use a pink eraser. That has grit. It will score and rub off the metal on the contacts just like it will score and scrap apart paper. Use a white magic rub eraser to remove any oxide. Of course, that only removes the oxide on the contacts you can get at which are on the memory module's PCB. You can't do that on the contacts inside the slot. For that, insert the memory module, remove it, and repeat a dozen times. The act of inserting the memory module will help wipe the contacts on both the memory module and in the slot (and may be the only cleaning needed without having to additionally abrade the contacts on the memory module). The OP already mentioned trying different memory module configs which means reseating them intot he slots; however, the OP did not mention not how many times he did that to wipe the contacts on card and in the slot. If there is a memory error, there will be a single beep on power up. The OP said there are no beep alerts on power up. Some laptops will not power on or act like yours if the BIOS battery is defective. From looking at replacement motherboards on Ebay it looks like your laptop has a replaceable BIOS battery (CR2032) on the back of motherboard. Those batteries only have a shelf life of 5 years from date of their manufacturer, not the date the laptop was sold. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUk1UxYOpW4 While the CMOS battery is on the "back" side of the mobo, there is no access cover that can be removed from the case to get at it. Nor is the battery possible accessible to the side of one of the access panels on the bottom of the case. You end up having to dismantle the case to get at the CMOS battery. I've read where some folks decided to use a rotodrill with a saw blade or cutting wheel to cut a hole in the case to get at the coin cell battery without having to dismantle the case. Then you have to figure out how to cover the hole. If you make thin cuts, the removed plastic piece can be used as the hole cover. Just either tape it in place or epoxy tangs onto the plastic piece with drill out holes to use very short screws to hold onto the case. You need to ensure the thickness of the fix is less than that for the non-skid feet so the laptop will sit flat on a surface. The CMOS battery shown in the above video has the wires attached to it to a mini 2-pin connector going to the mobo. You can buy these online with the wires sonically welded to the battery instead of just taping the old wires onto a new coin cell battery. You don't want to apply high heat to any lithium-based battery: could explode but will definitely deteriorate the chemistry (heat shortens the lifespan of lithium batteries). Some laptops have a retainer the battery slides into to hold it in place on the mobo and against contacts. Try booting with a Windows install CD/DVD in the drive, assuming the laptop is setup to boot from a CD. If the screen comes up that usually indicated a defective hard drive or the laptop has forgotten (BIOS) how to read it. The OP already mentioned disconnecting the HDD. He never even sees the POC screen which the BIOS shows (and before the HDD is even accessed to load an OS). I've even had hard drives get physically stuck when left on a shelf for a year or so and refuse to spin at all unless they received a quick rap with a screw driver, with the power off. Not something I'd recommend unless you have a stethoscope and can hear the beast not spin up. That would account for the OS not getting loaded (because the HDD is unusable). That would not account for not ever seeing the POC (Power-On Check) screen displayed by the BIOS the computer powers up. Before the BIOS can load, the video BIOS must load first. After all, you won't be able to see the BIOS config screens of the POC screen unless the video is already working. |
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
"J. P. Gilliver (John)" wrote in message ... snipped much It had been running W7 fine - home premium, upgraded from Vista before my eyes using proper upgrade discs (which I still have) when I bought it about 5 years ago we think - but that's _probably_ irrelevant (so OT for here) as it behaves identically with the hard disc absent. So, could it be possible that the HD is dead? |
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couple more questions about my irritable bowel syndrome
I am an adulterer.
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You should have believed me when I said I was good in bed.
Should I ask the doctor about the symptoms of herpes?
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
P. Gilliver (John) wrote: On 1/3/2017 5:56 PM, J.. Gilliver (John)
wrote: On 1/3/2017 5:56 PM, J. P. For another friend, this (Vista era, but more than adequate for her needs) 17" laptop. Virtually new condition, as she took care of it. When power supply connected, blue line through power button, and light on front, lights. When power button pressed, ring comes on (lights up) around power button, and another light on front lights. This and all subsequent description applies whether on external or battery power; the only difference external power makes is the light line in the power switch and the light at the front. (System seems to have charged the battery.) Nothing happens on screen - no even sign of backlight coming on. (Thought - _could_ be screen/backlight, but we don't get Windows sounds after the usual delay either, so I think it's mobo/processor. Have tried with external monitor [no display], but not sure at what point Fn-key-plus-F-key-to-change-monitors works.) Fan runs; DVD drive makes its usual twitch. The two things that make me think it's not completely dead: o pressing a button on the left that has a picture on it that could be an SD card makes that button flash for a second or two. o turning the machine off (i. e. back to dead [DVD won't eject, no lights other than external power if connected, fan stops]) by holding the power button in works, _but requires it to be held in for several seconds_. Behaviour is the same with: only either one of the two RAM modules present; HDD removed. I've dismantled the unit as far as I am willing to, and no sign of loose or damaged connectors or any distress (charring etc.); just reconnecting power-button board and keyboard while in that state, and after reassembling whole machine - no difference. Not important - we've written it off, and ordered a replacement (a Compaq; nobody had a 7535G for sale, other than a broken one or a motherboard, both of which we decided were too much bother to try, given the asking price), but if anyone _does_ know anything about this, it'd be intellectually satisfying to fix it. (I did Google; the most promising was suggested by more than one, and one called it something like an "ATX reset", being to hold the power button in for 30-45 seconds; I did that with and without battery/ext. power connected, with no change.) It had been running W7 fine - home premium, upgraded from Vista before my eyes using proper upgrade discs (which I still have) when I bought it about 5 years ago we think - but that's _probably_ irrelevant (so OT for here) as it behaves identically with the hard disc absent. Here a few things I don't things I don't things I have seen tried on your laptop yet. Here are a few things I don't. Have seen tried on your laptop yet. Some laptops will power only as the AC power only as the laptops will power adaptop battery (and leave it will power on will power on if the battery is nothing the lapter source. Some laptery (and leave if it with the power adapter only as the power on will power source. Some laptery removing the power on will power only as the AC power on if it out) and see if it will not power on if it out) and. Power adaptop batter source. The RAM and clean the RAM and clean the laptop with a clean pencil eraser and clean the laptop with a clean the laptop with a clean the RAM and clean the RAM and clean pencil eraser replacing the laptop will the RAM and clean the RAM and clean the contacts. Some laptops will not the battery is defective. From looking at replaceable BIOS back of 5 years if their manufact like your laptop have a shelf like yours from date of motherboards on or acturer, not therboards on Ebay is defective. From looks like yours if their manufact looking at replacement motheir manufact like yours from looking at replacement motheir manufact life of mothe battery it like yours if their manufact life of the battery it life of 5 years from. From looks like your laptops will not power on or act like yours from date therboards on therboard. From looking at replaceable BIOS battery is defective. Replacement motheir manufact like yours if the battery is defective. Try boot from a Windows in the screen comes up to read it. Try boot from a defective hard drive, assuming the screen (BIOS) how to read it. Try boot from a. Try booting with a defective or the drive, assuming the screen comes up to read it. If the screen comes up to read it. Try booting with a defective hard drive, assuming the drive or the screen comes up to read it. A Windicated a defective hard drive has forgotten (BIOS) how to booting with a CD. Not so and refuse to spin a screw drived a stuck when left on a screw drived a shelf for so and unless they refuse to spin up. Not spin up. I'd refuse to spin at ally stuck when had have even left on at all unless the beast not so and unless you had hard drived a shelf for a screw drives get physicall unless they. Hear the power or somethoscope a shelf for a screw drives get physically stuck rap with the beast not so and unless you had hard drived a quick when had have even hear or a quick rap with a year the power off. I've a year off. |
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which science class senior year???
why am i such a doormat!
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(probably OT) Acer Aspire 7535G mostly dead
In message , Paul in Houston TX
writes: [] My Lenovo T410 did exactly the same as yours last year. It's 7 yrs old. Including not making any sounds - or do you run with most sounds suppressed anyway? Researching possibilities on the web I found that laptops in general tend to break the vid cable due to flexing - opening and closing the lid. So, decided to take a chance on a new OEM cable from Ebay for $15 including shipping. Took me a few hours to put it in but it did the job. I use the T410 as a backup for the main laptop. I think I could probably change the panel (including backlight, and inverter if it has one), but the lack of sounds makes me disinclined to try. -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf By most scientific estimates sustained, useful fusion is ten years in the future - and will be ten years in the future for the next fifty years or more. - "Hamadryad", ~2016-4-4 |
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