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#1
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Hi All
I recently have been having trouble with Winbond Hardware doctor. I am running Athlon XP 2800+ Lanparty MB with Windows XP Pro.My Winbond keeps setting off an alarm saying that the minimum voltage level has been met. The volts section starts at +12V. The high level indicator is set for 13.00 and the low kevel indicator is set for 11.00. My system seems to be jumping below this level constantly and the motherboard alarm briefly sounds. Would anyone know possible causes of this. Could it be something to do with my PSU. It is a 12V 360 Watt chieftec. Currently, and since day 1 I have a DVD Writer - CD Writer, Additional USB front ports, Creative sound system with creative sound card, Wireless access point, 256mb graphics card, 512mb DDR. Any help on this is much appreciated. |
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#2
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
IF the other voltages like 3.3, 5V, -12V are jumping around the same time,
then your PSU is on the way out. Check if you get the same voltage errors in your BIOS. If it's just the +12V supply going down possible to be: 1. HDD on the way out, the motor is stalling, causing a larger demand on the PSU. 2. Other peripheral, floppy, CD. keyboard, mouse etc is starting to fault. Unplug each one and see if that cures the problem. Remove the power from the PC before you do, k? don't just switch the PC off, remove the power cable right out then remove each device and check the voltages again. 3. Poor connectors - Check that all 4 pins are mated properly. The pins can sometimes come away even though the rest of the connectors are fine. 4. Just too much load - How many HDD's do you have? 5. Motherboard mounting screws, perhaps one is shorting out to the chassis and shouldn't. Or one is loose. "Ted" wrote in message ... Hi All I recently have been having trouble with Winbond Hardware doctor. I am running Athlon XP 2800+ Lanparty MB with Windows XP Pro.My Winbond keeps setting off an alarm saying that the minimum voltage level has been met. The volts section starts at +12V. The high level indicator is set for 13.00 and the low kevel indicator is set for 11.00. My system seems to be jumping below this level constantly and the motherboard alarm briefly sounds. Would anyone know possible causes of this. Could it be something to do with my PSU. It is a 12V 360 Watt chieftec. Currently, and since day 1 I have a DVD Writer - CD Writer, Additional USB front ports, Creative sound system with creative sound card, Wireless access point, 256mb graphics card, 512mb DDR. Any help on this is much appreciated. |
#3
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Voltages measured by BIOS are not accurate. Either confirm
those voltage readings with a 3.5 digit multimeter, OR calibrate the BIOS meter with a 3.5 digit meter. The power supply should be more than sufficient. But the devil is in the details. A power supply with more than enough overall wattage may provide insufficient current on one voltage output. Again, this is why multimeter is required. Ted wrote: I recently have been having trouble with Winbond Hardware doctor. I am running Athlon XP 2800+ Lanparty MB with Windows XP Pro.My Winbond keeps setting off an alarm saying that the minimum voltage level has been met. The volts section starts at +12V. The high level indicator is set for 13.00 and the low kevel indicator is set for 11.00. My system seems to be jumping below this level constantly and the motherboard alarm briefly sounds. Would anyone know possible causes of this. Could it be something to do with my PSU. It is a 12V 360 Watt chieftec. Currently, and since day 1 I have a DVD Writer - CD Writer, Additional USB front ports, Creative sound system with creative sound card, Wireless access point, 256mb graphics card, 512mb DDR. Any help on this is much appreciated. |
#4
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
How far out is the BIOS reading from the real reading?
50% + ? Please advise. "w_tom" wrote in message ... Voltages measured by BIOS are not accurate. Either confirm those voltage readings with a 3.5 digit multimeter, OR calibrate the BIOS meter with a 3.5 digit meter. The power supply should be more than sufficient. But the devil is in the details. A power supply with more than enough overall wattage may provide insufficient current on one voltage output. Again, this is why multimeter is required. |
#5
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Hi Guys
Thanks for getting back to me. I don't have a metre to measure but I did try and remove the other devices to see the difference, but there was none. The HDD and CD + DVD drive have been replaced within the last 2 weeks. This was happening before then. The readings in the BIOS are simalar to the Hadware Doctor. I currently only have 1 HDD attached which is a 160gb SATA 8MB cache, I also would like to attach another in the future but am i right in saying thats out of the question?? or should I look at a new PSU. They readings are as follows. LL = Low Limit - HL= High Limit +3.3V..... LL3.00 - HL3.50. This reading jumps between 3.34 & 3.36 +5V .....LL4.50 - HL 5.50. Steady @ 5.11 +12V.....LL11.00 - HL 13.00. This jumps between 11.04 & 10.50, quiet a difference and not meeting the 12V. -12V.....LL -14.00 - HL -11.0. This jumps between -11.78 & -11.86 again thanks for your help Ted "Gary" wrote: How far out is the BIOS reading from the real reading? 50% + ? Please advise. "w_tom" wrote in message ... Voltages measured by BIOS are not accurate. Either confirm those voltage readings with a 3.5 digit multimeter, OR calibrate the BIOS meter with a 3.5 digit meter. The power supply should be more than sufficient. But the devil is in the details. A power supply with more than enough overall wattage may provide insufficient current on one voltage output. Again, this is why multimeter is required. |
#6
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as
essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. Ted wrote: Hi Guys Thanks for getting back to me. I don't have a metre to measure but I did try and remove the other devices to see the difference, but there was none. The HDD and CD + DVD drive have been replaced within the last 2 weeks. This was happening before then. The readings in the BIOS are simalar to the Hadware Doctor. I currently only have 1 HDD attached which is a 160gb SATA 8MB cache, I also would like to attach another in the future but am i right in saying thats out of the question?? or should I look at a new PSU. They readings are as follows. LL = Low Limit - HL= High Limit +3.3V..... LL3.00 - HL3.50. This reading jumps between 3.34 & 3.36 +5V .....LL4.50 - HL 5.50. Steady @ 5.11 +12V.....LL11.00 - HL 13.00. This jumps between 11.04 & 10.50, quiet a difference and not meeting the 12V. -12V.....LL -14.00 - HL -11.0. This jumps between -11.78 & -11.86 again thanks for your help Ted "Gary" wrote: How far out is the BIOS reading from the real reading? 50% + ? Please advise. |
#7
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Hi,
I have a friend that has let me borrow a PSU, when I check Winbond hardware Doctor with the new PSU, instead of the alarm sounding now and then, it's on constant. Does that make any more sense? Im so confused??? "w_tom" wrote: Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. Ted wrote: Hi Guys Thanks for getting back to me. I don't have a metre to measure but I did try and remove the other devices to see the difference, but there was none. The HDD and CD + DVD drive have been replaced within the last 2 weeks. This was happening before then. The readings in the BIOS are simalar to the Hadware Doctor. I currently only have 1 HDD attached which is a 160gb SATA 8MB cache, I also would like to attach another in the future but am i right in saying thats out of the question?? or should I look at a new PSU. They readings are as follows. LL = Low Limit - HL= High Limit +3.3V..... LL3.00 - HL3.50. This reading jumps between 3.34 & 3.36 +5V .....LL4.50 - HL 5.50. Steady @ 5.11 +12V.....LL11.00 - HL 13.00. This jumps between 11.04 & 10.50, quiet a difference and not meeting the 12V. -12V.....LL -14.00 - HL -11.0. This jumps between -11.78 & -11.86 again thanks for your help Ted "Gary" wrote: How far out is the BIOS reading from the real reading? 50% + ? Please advise. |
#8
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
That 'swap PSU' test only implies that something else is
wrong. However assumed (and not stated): is the new PSU exactly same? In the meantime, numbers are necessary to provide useful assistance. Considering all the work and all the added risk to both your system and his PSU, it makes more sense (and saves significant time) to first take those voltage readings. Those upper and lower limits are significantly outside of acceptable voltages. If you are getting alarms with limits that far too wide, then surprising the computer is still working. Winbond voltage readings are only as accurate as hardware on motherboard. Use the meter so we know what your system is really doing. Doing anything else will only make you and us more confused. Those multimeter numbers are essential. Without them, your responses will only be wild speculation. BTW what did those other information sources (Device Manager, system log, etc) report? Worry more about getting every piece of information requested. Being confused should have come much later. Ted wrote: I have a friend that has let me borrow a PSU, when I check Winbond hardware Doctor with the new PSU, instead of the alarm sounding now and then, it's on constant. Does that make any more sense? Im so confused??? "w_tom" wrote: Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. |
#9
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
No, the PSU is a 450 Watt, I know what you mean, I should be getting the
correct details instead of wild guessing. I will buy a metre on Saturday as I work shifts. I am not sure how to use a metre or where I should be putting it to test, sorry if I sound stupid!! But you've gotta start somewhere. Help with this is much appreciated. "w_tom" wrote: That 'swap PSU' test only implies that something else is wrong. However assumed (and not stated): is the new PSU exactly same? In the meantime, numbers are necessary to provide useful assistance. Considering all the work and all the added risk to both your system and his PSU, it makes more sense (and saves significant time) to first take those voltage readings. Those upper and lower limits are significantly outside of acceptable voltages. If you are getting alarms with limits that far too wide, then surprising the computer is still working. Winbond voltage readings are only as accurate as hardware on motherboard. Use the meter so we know what your system is really doing. Doing anything else will only make you and us more confused. Those multimeter numbers are essential. Without them, your responses will only be wild speculation. BTW what did those other information sources (Device Manager, system log, etc) report? Worry more about getting every piece of information requested. Being confused should have come much later. Ted wrote: I have a friend that has let me borrow a PSU, when I check Winbond hardware Doctor with the new PSU, instead of the alarm sounding now and then, it's on constant. Does that make any more sense? Im so confused??? "w_tom" wrote: Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. |
#10
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Meter has two leads. All voltages are 'electrical pressure'
between two points. The previously posted procedures describe measuring voltage between two colored wires. IOW black lead touches PSU black wire (inside white nylon connector where it connects to motherboard). Red wire touches PSU's red, yellow, orange, green etc wires to measure voltage on that wire. Just set voltmeter selector to DC volts, touch probes, and read numbers on meter. Record voltage for each colored wire. Then compare to voltages on chart. 3.3, 5, and 12 volt wires should read in upper 3/4s of limits. Sidebar: Many 450 watt power supplies do not even output their rated power. Just another problem with so many power supplies dumped into America that don't even meet Intel specs. This web site demonstrates a problem too common with imported power supplies: http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/0...021/index.html http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/0...pplies-15.html Time and time again, our lab measurements were unable to verify the output figures represented on the model identification sticker. Ted wrote: No, the PSU is a 450 Watt, I know what you mean, I should be getting the correct details instead of wild guessing. I will buy a metre on Saturday as I work shifts. I am not sure how to use a metre or where I should be putting it to test, sorry if I sound stupid!! But you've gotta start somewhere. Help with this is much appreciated. "w_tom" wrote: That 'swap PSU' test only implies that something else is wrong. However assumed (and not stated): is the new PSU exactly same? In the meantime, numbers are necessary to provide useful assistance. Considering all the work and all the added risk to both your system and his PSU, it makes more sense (and saves significant time) to first take those voltage readings. Those upper and lower limits are significantly outside of acceptable voltages. If you are getting alarms with limits that far too wide, then surprising the computer is still working. Winbond voltage readings are only as accurate as hardware on motherboard. Use the meter so we know what your system is really doing. Doing anything else will only make you and us more confused. Those multimeter numbers are essential. Without them, your responses will only be wild speculation. BTW what did those other information sources (Device Manager, system log, etc) report? Worry more about getting every piece of information requested. Being confused should have come much later. Ted wrote: I have a friend that has let me borrow a PSU, when I check Winbond hardware Doctor with the new PSU, instead of the alarm sounding now and then, it's on constant. Does that make any more sense? Im so confused??? "w_tom" wrote: Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. |
#11
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+12 VOLT Indicator on Winbond Hardware Doctor
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. I have checked the voltage read outs using my new metre. They are as follows. +3.3 is reading 3.40 +5.5 is reading 5.15 +12 is reading 11.92 and the - is reading -11.90 If I remember, the hardware doctor is reading the +12 volts to be 10.98. Is it right in saying that this reading is being taken from the BIOS, therefore the seems to nothing wrong with the PSU and the problem lies with the motherboard? Once again, sorry for the late reply thanks for your help Ted "w_tom" wrote: Meter has two leads. All voltages are 'electrical pressure' between two points. The previously posted procedures describe measuring voltage between two colored wires. IOW black lead touches PSU black wire (inside white nylon connector where it connects to motherboard). Red wire touches PSU's red, yellow, orange, green etc wires to measure voltage on that wire. Just set voltmeter selector to DC volts, touch probes, and read numbers on meter. Record voltage for each colored wire. Then compare to voltages on chart. 3.3, 5, and 12 volt wires should read in upper 3/4s of limits. Sidebar: Many 450 watt power supplies do not even output their rated power. Just another problem with so many power supplies dumped into America that don't even meet Intel specs. This web site demonstrates a problem too common with imported power supplies: http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/0...021/index.html http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/0...pplies-15.html Time and time again, our lab measurements were unable to verify the output figures represented on the model identification sticker. Ted wrote: No, the PSU is a 450 Watt, I know what you mean, I should be getting the correct details instead of wild guessing. I will buy a metre on Saturday as I work shifts. I am not sure how to use a metre or where I should be putting it to test, sorry if I sound stupid!! But you've gotta start somewhere. Help with this is much appreciated. "w_tom" wrote: That 'swap PSU' test only implies that something else is wrong. However assumed (and not stated): is the new PSU exactly same? In the meantime, numbers are necessary to provide useful assistance. Considering all the work and all the added risk to both your system and his PSU, it makes more sense (and saves significant time) to first take those voltage readings. Those upper and lower limits are significantly outside of acceptable voltages. If you are getting alarms with limits that far too wide, then surprising the computer is still working. Winbond voltage readings are only as accurate as hardware on motherboard. Use the meter so we know what your system is really doing. Doing anything else will only make you and us more confused. Those multimeter numbers are essential. Without them, your responses will only be wild speculation. BTW what did those other information sources (Device Manager, system log, etc) report? Worry more about getting every piece of information requested. Being confused should have come much later. Ted wrote: I have a friend that has let me borrow a PSU, when I check Winbond hardware Doctor with the new PSU, instead of the alarm sounding now and then, it's on constant. Does that make any more sense? Im so confused??? "w_tom" wrote: Obtain that meter even in a screw driver store. Meter is as essential as a screw driver. So ubiquitous as to be sold even in Home Depot, Sears, and Lowes. So inexpensive that it is now a standard tool. BIOS measurement circuits can vary significantly. How accurate are they? An honest computer provider or motherboard manufactuer provides that numerical specification. However a 'motherboard voltmeter' must be accurate enough duplicate the accuracy of a 3.5 digit multimeter. See spec limits in previous posts. Voltages must reside in the upper 3/4s of those limits. Anything else can mean strange and intermittent failures. If the meter is less accurate, then the voltage readings must lie even further inside those limits. Limits provided below are too wide. For example, upper limit is 12.6. Below, that same limit is 13 volts - too high. A voltage below 4.85 is too low. And yet limits below are 4.5 - too low. Don't screw around. Don't waste good money and time by shotgunning - scam that an auto mechanic does when he does not have basic knowledge. Get the meter to confirm an essential component - the PSU. Then move on to other 'usual' suspects using standard information sources such as system (event) log, Device Manager, and comprehensive diagnostics provided free by any reponsible computer manufacturer. |
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