Does my UPS work?

On 8/21/2015 1:00 PM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:15:32 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc
battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0
device.mfr: American Power Conversion
device.model: Back-UPS XS 1300G

The larger capacity APC units (you have one) use TWO 12v batteries in
series to obtain the 24V nominal.

Do a Google Search for APC Back-UPS XS 1300G manual (the G is for
"Green", I believe) and you should find the manual you're looking for.
I was just gifted yet another APC unit and didn't have the manual (it
was an older model) and locating them on the APC site was difficult.
Nothing would be returned with their search engine.

When I did the Google search I found one... Guess where? On the APC
site. Go figure.

Also, look on the outside of your unit for a small (maybe 1"x3/8") white
bar code label it will have something like BX1300 or XB1300 on it. That
number means more than the model number emblazoned on the case of the UPS.

On 8/21/2015 1:00 PM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:15:32 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:



I have no idea what to look for, when it's time to replace the battery.
Not sure where I put the manual, and am having trouble finding one
online.

Regards, Dave Hodgins


Here, Dave, this should be the manual you need:

http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/EALN-7SEGRP/EALN-7SEGRP_R7_EN.pdf

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:43:21 -0400, Ed Pawlowski
wrote:

On 8/21/2015 10:15 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:


Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

They take either a single battery or a pair and I have no problem
picking up batteries through various internet sites, Ebay or Amazon.com
for WAY less than half the price of APC replacement batteries. I get
~3yrs service out of those "compatible" batteries. Who cares if they
may not (and I have no evidence of this) last as long as a "genuine" APC
replacement? Even if they last half as long, I'm still money ahead.


I just replaced the batteries in one unit. If you buy the genuine
battery from APC is comes with the wiring harness attached and you pull
out the two batteries as a unit and slide the new one in. Cost is $110.

I found a place that sells replacements. I had to take the harness off
(four spade connections) and put it on the new batteries. I also taped
the two together to be a solid unit too. Cost was $37. plus half a
penny for tape and five minutes to do the connections.

This is where I bought, but there are many other sources.
www.batterysharks.com/

Thanks Ed. I took a look, and bookmarked them, but

a) the guy at the store here was really nice to me a couple years ago.
When I went to pay him I saw I had lost my wallet. Went back to where I
had lunch, and paid for it, and owner told me they didn't have it.

Went back to battery store and he gave me one of the two I wanted on
credit, never met him before. I only needed one at the moment.

Got money at the bank the next day and went back and paid him. Also
stopped at the restaurant again and found out owner-wife had the wallet
the previous day and went home without telling owner-husband. So I got
my wallet back with everything in it. I'd dropped it on the floor
under the table where I ate.

b) it wasn't that much more money

c) he let me try the battery in the UPS before I bought it. . I didn't
know until this morning that even the one I paid $7 for and which said
Working on it didn't do anything when plugged it, even with an
all-but-dead battery . It doesn't have to have a load but it does have
to have a decent battery, or even the Online light doesn't go on. I
think the design stinks.

d) I wanted to get one of the batteries right away.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 21:31:45 -0500, Unquestionably
Confused wrote:

On 8/21/2015 1:00 PM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:15:32 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc
battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0
device.mfr: American Power Conversion
device.model: Back-UPS XS 1300G

The larger capacity APC units (you have one) use TWO 12v batteries in
series to obtain the 24V nominal.

Do a Google Search for APC Back-UPS XS 1300G manual (the G is for
"Green", I believe) and you should find the manual you're looking for.

The manual, absolutely, but for replacement batteries, this won't work
and the manual won't either. They give the batteries silly names
like RBC2, RBC32, Replacement Battery Cartridge #32

For the battery give google the ups model number and use the words
replacement battery. I didn't think of that. Google suggested
it.

I was just gifted yet another APC unit and didn't have the manual (it
was an older model) and locating them on the APC site was difficult.
Nothing would be returned with their search engine.

When I did the Google search I found one... Guess where? On the APC
site. Go figure.

Hmmm. By accident I went straight to google. I guess that saved me
some time.

Also, look on the outside of your unit for a small (maybe 1"x3/8") white
bar code label it will have something like BX1300 or XB1300 on it. That
number means more than the model number emblazoned on the case of the UPS.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 15:08:28 -0400, Frank "frank
wrote:


I've got them on my three desktop computers.

Surge protectors were not enough when power failed stopping computer in
its tracks and losing hard drive sectors. This was years ago and maybe
computers react better but why take chances. I buy cheap units as I
only want enough power to safely power down computers. In maybe 20
years, I've only had to replace one UPS.

My first UPS was for some reaons 70 or 80% off at a computer store. They
had 3.

Not APC and it had it's on/off switch in a cupola at the top, so it was
a lot easier to reach when the UPS was on the floor.

When I looked inside, there were plastic ribs holding the battery in
place so I broke out the ribs and put in a bigger battery. I figured
itwould only recharge as fast as it could, and I never drained the
battery anyhow, That one failed, but I still don't think the bigger
battery caused the failure. ????

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:39:20 -0400, micky
wrote:

On 8/21/2015 9:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?


Apparently, the batteries are ok in the one unit. Try putting the
'good' batteries into the other unit so see if it works, before ordering
new ones. As others have said, you can get good batteries for cheap on
the internet. I've replace mine at least 3 or 4 times over the last 15
or so years and it's still going. When I was 1st gifted with this old
AT&T UPS, it wouldn't even pass line current to the output. I borrowed
a bunch of 6 volt batteries and connected 4 in series ... this UPS
actually uses 24 volts instead of the usual 12 volts. Once the new
batteries were connected, it started passing line voltage through.
Apparently, on this unit, when the batteries are dead, it tells you by
not working at all.

What a system!

The other answers were valuable and I'm going to reply to them later,
but this is the answer I was looking for.

Somehow I was suspicious that this could happen, so I'll see if it's
happening to me.

Yes. First, even the one that was marked Working was like yours. It
did nothing when plugged in, but I brought it to the store and he let me
try the new battery in it. I had no load and the Online light was off
even after I plugged it in, but after I pushed the button, that light
flashed green, in a few seconds the yellow self-test light went on, and
when that went off, the first light was steady green.

Then I took the two batteries I bought and tested the one at home that
Paul pointed out had terrible Amazon rattngs. It was dead too, even
when plugged in with the old batteries ---- What a crummy design ---
but with new ones -- they didnt fit in the case but the wires were long
enough -- it acted just like in the previous paragraph. I
couldn't hear it hum but my fingers could feel it, including for a
minute or two after I turned it off, even though it had only been on for
couple minutes. So it takes that long to cool off when it's barely
gotten hot I forgot to test it with the lamp, darn, but it probably
works. Well there's that transfer issue. It uses a very common size
battery, two NP7-12's, which will fit my home burglar alarm too.

Air can get in through any of the 8 3-prong holes for electric plugs
that are not being used. Or they can go out that way, but that puts all
the air near the back of the box. I suppose I should drill a couple
holes in the case, maybe 1/2? inch on each side. One inch?

On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:37:34 -0400, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Here, Dave, this should be the manual you need:
http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/EALN-7SEGRP/EALN-7SEGRP_R7_EN.pdf

Thanks! Based on the images etc., it does look like the correct manual.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:31:45 -0400, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Also, look on the outside of your unit for a small (maybe 1"x3/8") white
bar code label it will have something like BX1300 or XB1300 on it. That
number means more than the model number emblazoned on the case of the UPS.

There are enough wires around it (it supplies two desktop computers, two
monitors, cable modem, sound amplifier, router, tv, and a light) that it
will be difficult to access without unplugging everything. As the battery
seems to be ok (just over 2 years old), I'll leave it where it is. It has
good air flow, and anytime I hear thunder, I turn everything off, including
the ups, an unplug it, just to be on the safe side. I trust it to handle
short outages, voltage spikes or drops, but not a nearby lightning strike.
I've lost a lot of electronic devices due to lightning strikes in the past.

I'll keep that in mind for when the battery eventually does go.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 16:42:40 -0400, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

In message , David W. Hodgins
writes:
From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc

I presume that means lead-acid. (Most of this sort of thing use "SLA" -
sealed lead-acid - which have a gel inside rather than liquid, which
means the batteries can be used any way up.)

battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0

(Sounds healthy!) I'd guess two 12-volt ones.

It's either a single battery, or two in one case, so it looks like one.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On 8/22/2015 2:46 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 21:31:45 -0500, Unquestionably
Confused wrote:

[snip]



Do a Google Search for APC Back-UPS XS 1300G manual (the G is for
"Green", I believe) and you should find the manual you're looking for.

The manual, absolutely, but for replacement batteries, this won't work
and the manual won't either. They give the batteries silly names
like RBC2, RBC32, Replacement Battery Cartridge #32

Yes, they certainly do give them silly names like RBC2 and RCB32.
However, any battery supply house worthy of the name will have cross
references to the batteries used in perhaps the widest selling brand of
UPS devices.

APC and others with "proprietary" numbers count on some people being
idiots and unable or unwilling to look past the end of their fingertip
as the mouth the words in the owner's manuals.

On 8/22/2015 3:16 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:39:20 -0400, micky
wrote:

[snip]

What a system!

The other answers were valuable and I'm going to reply to them later,
but this is the answer I was looking for.

Somehow I was suspicious that this could happen, so I'll see if it's
happening to me.

Yes. First, even the one that was marked Working was like yours. It
did nothing when plugged in, but I brought it to the store and he let me

[snip]

Air can get in through any of the 8 3-prong holes for electric plugs
that are not being used. Or they can go out that way, but that puts all
the air near the back of the box. I suppose I should drill a couple
holes in the case, maybe 1/2? inch on each side. One inch?

So now the expert on Newsgroup posting has taken to replying to his own
posts? Wonderful. Take bit of your own "expert" advice and start
trimming your posts. We really don't need to read the entire thread
over and over. Nor, for that matter, do we need to know the saga of
your missing wallet and who, exactly found it and where.

Somehow I don't think your idea of drilling 1/2" or 1" holes in the case
of your UPS for added ventilation is the brightest idea. To ensure you
don't accidentally damage something and not have a working UPS when you
need it, I'd suggest drilling those holes while the unit is plugged in.
That way you'll know immediately if you damaged something.

On 8/22/2015 3:37 AM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:37:34 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

Here, Dave, this should be the manual you need:
http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/EALN-7SEGRP/EALN-7SEGRP_R7_EN.pdf

Thanks! Based on the images etc., it does look like the correct manual.

Quite a few of those APC manuals actually cover a multitude of their
"models." The best indicator/reference is usually that little bar code
label reading "BX1300" or "BS1300" etc.

On 8/22/2015 3:50 AM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 16:42:40 -0400, J. P. Gilliver (John)
wrote:

In message , David W. Hodgins
writes:
From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc

I presume that means lead-acid. (Most of this sort of thing use "SLA" -
sealed lead-acid - which have a gel inside rather than liquid, which
means the batteries can be used any way up.)

battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0

(Sounds healthy!) I'd guess two 12-volt ones.

It's either a single battery, or two in one case, so it looks like one.


No, you'll find that it's two batteries, in series, which is APC's
style. The two batteries will be joined by a piece of double-sided
sticky tape and connected in series using a little jumper (sometimes
with an inline fuse in the larger units.

As others have mentioned, just buy the appropriate replacement cells. I
just "re-batteried" two such units and used some clear 1½" packaging
tape to bind them together.

Piece of cake!

Try asking in http://forums.apc.com/ as well.


On 8/21/2015 6:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?




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