Does my UPS work?

I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?

On 08/21/2015 07:09 AM, micky wrote:
Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

Sometimes the switchover or charging circuitry fails. The last time I
replaced my home UPS the battery was good but it wouldn't switch over.
We have a lot of UPS's at work and the failure rate is fairly high. That
goes for APC or no-name units.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

Plug a radio into one of the protect outlets. Pull the plug on the UPS.
Is the radio still functioning? The 60w bulb is also a good idea since
that will allow you to see how long the battery will maintain the
output. One failure mode I've seen several times is on switchover the
UPS will effectively short the output crashing the computer while one
just plugged into the wall survives the very brief flicker fine.

As far as the control connection to the computer, good luck. Find the
appropriate software for the machine and your OS like PowerChute.

"micky" wrote in message
...
Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.


The UPS may be like some of the battery powered drills. You can buy a new
drill with two batteries for what just one or two of the batteries cost.

I have not looked at the cost to make the batteries, but there must be a big
mark up on them when they sell for over $ 50 each,but you can get two, a
charger and new drill for the price of less than two seperate batteries.

Where I worked we had a lot of small motors (around 1/2 HP) that had a gear
box on them. We could get the motor and gear box cheaper than just the
motor.

On 8/21/2015 8:50 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"micky" wrote in message
...
Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.


The UPS may be like some of the battery powered drills. You can buy a new
drill with two batteries for what just one or two of the batteries cost.

I have not looked at the cost to make the batteries, but there must be a big
mark up on them when they sell for over $ 50 each,but you can get two, a
charger and new drill for the price of less than two seperate batteries.

Where I worked we had a lot of small motors (around 1/2 HP) that had a gear
box on them. We could get the motor and gear box cheaper than just the
motor.





Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

They take either a single battery or a pair and I have no problem
picking up batteries through various internet sites, Ebay or Amazon.com
for WAY less than half the price of APC replacement batteries. I get
~3yrs service out of those "compatible" batteries. Who cares if they
may not (and I have no evidence of this) last as long as a "genuine" APC
replacement? Even if they last half as long, I'm still money ahead.

On 8/21/2015 8:50 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"micky" wrote in message
...
Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.


The UPS may be like some of the battery powered drills. You can buy a new
drill with two batteries for what just one or two of the batteries cost.

I have not looked at the cost to make the batteries, but there must be a big
mark up on them when they sell for over $ 50 each,but you can get two, a
charger and new drill for the price of less than two seperate batteries.

Where I worked we had a lot of small motors (around 1/2 HP) that had a gear
box on them. We could get the motor and gear box cheaper than just the
motor.





Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

They take either a single battery or a pair and I have no problem
picking up batteries through various internet sites, Ebay or Amazon.com
for WAY less than half the price of APC replacement batteries. I get
~3yrs service out of those "compatible" batteries. Who cares if they
may not (and I have no evidence of this) last as long as a "genuine" APC
replacement? Even if they last half as long, I'm still money ahead.

On 8/21/2015 10:15 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:


Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

They take either a single battery or a pair and I have no problem
picking up batteries through various internet sites, Ebay or Amazon.com
for WAY less than half the price of APC replacement batteries. I get
~3yrs service out of those "compatible" batteries. Who cares if they
may not (and I have no evidence of this) last as long as a "genuine" APC
replacement? Even if they last half as long, I'm still money ahead.


I just replaced the batteries in one unit. If you buy the genuine
battery from APC is comes with the wiring harness attached and you pull
out the two batteries as a unit and slide the new one in. Cost is $110.

I found a place that sells replacements. I had to take the harness off
(four spade connections) and put it on the new batteries. I also taped
the two together to be a solid unit too. Cost was $37. plus half a
penny for tape and five minutes to do the connections.

This is where I bought, but there are many other sources.
www.batterysharks.com/

On 8/21/2015 9:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?


Apparently, the batteries are ok in the one unit. Try putting the
'good' batteries into the other unit so see if it works, before ordering
new ones. As others have said, you can get good batteries for cheap on
the internet. I've replace mine at least 3 or 4 times over the last 15
or so years and it's still going. When I was 1st gifted with this old
AT&T UPS, it wouldn't even pass line current to the output. I borrowed
a bunch of 6 volt batteries and connected 4 in series ... this UPS
actually uses 24 volts instead of the usual 12 volts. Once the new
batteries were connected, it started passing line voltage through.
Apparently, on this unit, when the batteries are dead, it tells you by
not working at all. I've kept this unit because it is built like a tank
inside. It has big hefty line filtering also.

micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?



The XS900 is a "loser".

Put it back on the curb.

Check the reviews on Amazon. This is how
I judge them.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-900VA-Back...ustomerReviews

An internal fan with no vent ?
I hope not. Maybe the thing is
ferroresonant and the noise is the
transformer.

The APC site claims to be "down for maintenance" at the
moment, or I'd have a look at the user manual. It could
be an AVR unit for example (automatic voltage regulator)
and "line interactive". That means, it is buggering
with the power at all times, one way or another.

*******

And yes, replacing batteries makes perfect sense, on the
mid-range ones. I paid $250 for my UPS when new, the
battery lasted *ten years*, and a new battery cost $60.
The price on batteries has come down slightly over
the years, presumably since all the batteries are made
in China. And if you take the rate of inflation into
account, the price has come down.

One secret to battery life, you can do nothing about.
But you can control the "level of discharge". I'm always
careful, if I'm in the room, to shut down the computer
loads then switch off the ATX supply, to spare the battery
when the lights go out. The shallower the discharge, the
longer they last. Don't rely on the low voltage cutoff on
the UPS itself, to "protect" the battery. The battery life
can last longer, if you take care of it.

I don't consider the UPS to be an "alternate power source",
it's merely a way to ride out one-second outages, when the
utility switches over stuff. I have one computer cabled to
the automatic shutdown feature, and Windows happens to have
the right driver for that APC unit, already in Windows. For
the second computer connected to it, I shut down that
computer manually.

*******

The low end of the UPS market, the failure rate out of the
box is 10%. And the Amazon description for the XS900,
shows it just doesn't last with time.

There are different kinds of UPS architectures.
There are SPS (standby power supply). There
are AVR (automatic voltage regulation). There
are more than five different types. The SPS remains
cool to the touch, because the inverter doesn't
run when AC power is available. The battery charges
to a constant voltage (and you can stick your meter
on the battery terminals after a 24 hour charge
period and verify the terminal voltage is
correct). That's one check I could do after installing
the new battery.

The UPS has the ability to do a load test. It places
a known load on the battery for a few seconds, and checks
the resulting terminal voltage. The output impedance of
the battery is considered a health indicator. A high
impedance battery, drops to a low voltage when loaded.
A UPS which "beeps" once every 24 hours, has just done
the short load test, and found the terminal voltage
to be wanting.

And a 60W light bulb makes a fine load. It is resistive.
The load is relatively well controlled (draws 120W when
cold, has a "surge" due to the cold resistance), but
eventually settles down to 60W. If the output voltage
of the UPS is not correct (makes 200V rather than 113V),
then the color of the filament when lit gives a quick
indication of whether the output voltage is correct or
not. I can easily spot when my power here drops to 100V
at the mast, just by the color of the remaining incandescent
bulbs I use. LED bulbs on the other hand, are regulated,
and have no characteristic useful for analyzing what
the utility is doing to you.

*******

For your next curbside UPS, check the reviews and
see if the unit stinks or not. If a lot of users
complain of weird symptoms within the first year
or two, chances are fixing one up is not a wise
use of time or money.

Have fun,
Paul

In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:02:08
-0400, Art Todesco wrote:

On 8/21/2015 9:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?


Apparently, the batteries are ok in the one unit. Try putting the
'good' batteries into the other unit so see if it works, before ordering
new ones. As others have said, you can get good batteries for cheap on
the internet. I've replace mine at least 3 or 4 times over the last 15
or so years and it's still going. When I was 1st gifted with this old
AT&T UPS, it wouldn't even pass line current to the output. I borrowed
a bunch of 6 volt batteries and connected 4 in series ... this UPS
actually uses 24 volts instead of the usual 12 volts. Once the new
batteries were connected, it started passing line voltage through.
Apparently, on this unit, when the batteries are dead, it tells you by
not working at all.

What a system!

The other answers were valuable and I'm going to reply to them later,
but this is the answer I was looking for.

Somehow I was suspicious that this could happen, so I'll see if it's
happening to me.

Somewhere I have some worn-out 12-volt batteries but since they're
buried, now is just the time to do what you say, because I'm going out
soon to buy 12 volt batteries for the other two (There's another small
one that I didn't mention.)

Now would also be the time to order by mail, since I need 2, maybe 3,
and I would save on shipping, but these things fit so tightly, and the
dimensions listed for the NP7-12, for example, one dimension was smaller
than my old battery but another was bigger than it and wouldnt' fit in
the UPS. Better to buy in person in this case. I'll take both
batteries and one UPS with me.

Even the dimensions given on the APC page for the specific UPS were like
that, one maximum dimension bigger than my battery, but one smaller.
Neither of which makes sense since my battery exactly fits the space. In
fact in two of the three cases, it's an APC battery (maybe the original
one?) Hard to believe they would get their own dimensions wrong.

I've kept this unit because it is built like a tank
inside. It has big hefty line filtering also.

On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:15:32 -0400, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc
battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0
device.mfr: American Power Conversion
device.model: Back-UPS XS 1300G

I have no idea what to look for, when it's time to replace the battery.
Not sure where I put the manual, and am having trouble finding one
online.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

--
Change nomail.afraid.org to ody.ca to reply by email.
(nomail.afraid.org has been set up specifically for
use in usenet. Feel free to use it yourself.)

In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 07:44:17
-0600, rbowman wrote:

On 08/21/2015 07:09 AM, micky wrote:
Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

Sometimes the switchover or charging circuitry fails. The last time I
replaced my home UPS the battery was good but it wouldn't switch over.
We have a lot of UPS's at work and the failure rate is fairly high. That
goes for APC or no-name units.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

Plug a radio into one of the protect outlets. Pull the plug on the UPS.
Is the radio still functioning? The 60w bulb is also a good idea since
that will allow you to see how long the battery will maintain the
output. One failure mode I've seen several times is on switchover the
UPS will effectively short the output crashing the computer while one
just plugged into the wall survives the very brief flicker fine.

Hmmm. I've actually got a third one for my DVDR, and its battery is old
and I've seen the power dip and if it's recording, it stops recording
but stays on, and then starts recording again asap. I recorded 30
minutes of news and it ended up in 7 pieces!! OTOH, if it's not
recording, it turns off and stays off.

**How could I have 7 power failures in 30 minutes. Well, I've got a
"portable" air conditioner, and it's plugged into the same receptacle
that the DVDR is. And every time it goes on, I hear a short beep. I
thought it was the AC but finally realized it was the UPS. Still when
I wasn't using the AC, and storms caused the power outage, it got
through some that of those actual outages, not just dips, and lasting 2
or 3 seconds, without losing its list of programs to record.

But last night I had the feeling that if the UPS were not there, the
dips in voltage would not have caused the recording mode to turn off.

So I just got back from buying a new battery. for this little one, and
another for the one I paid $7 for and was marked Working. It was a few
dollars more than mailorder, but I wanted the small one today, and I was
able to compare the dimensions of the new one with the old one adn they
matched. Some of the ones on the web had one dimension larger and
anoher smaller. I guess the dimensions on the web were wrong, but I
didn't want to buy mail order and find out that it didnt fit.

As far as the control connection to the computer, good luck. Find the
appropriate software for the machine and your OS like PowerChute.

In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:14:44
-0400, Paul wrote:

micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?



The XS900 is a "loser".

Put it back on the curb.

Check the reviews on Amazon. This is how
I judge them.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-900VA-Back...ustomerReviews

I didn't even think to do look at this, maybe because I own it already.

Wow. 2 stars out of 5, which I consider to be 1 star out of 4 since one
can't give something 0 stars.

I didnt' think APC would make anything that bad. Unless people have
unreasonable expectations because it's a famous brand. -- I haven't
read the reviews yet. Only 11 reviews.

That's the second lowest thing I've seen. The lowest was a battery
powered jumper box for cars, that Pepboys marked down from 50 to 30.
Since I'd been wanting one, I bought it and when I got home, I looked
it up like you did. I owned it but could return it. It was only 1.7
stars out of 5. But when I returned it, the clerk, and clerks often
don't give a darn, seemed surprised and told me they sell them and never
hear back, that is, people are satisfied. (Of course they are only used
when the car won't start, so maybe it's too late to return them then!)

I think Pep Boys marked them down because the rating was so low and they
couldnt' sell them at the regular price. It was part of a Grand
Reopening Sale (even though they were never closed) and they had other
things cheap but nothing I needed. Well they had the little red floor
jack 40 marked down to 20 or so, but I had already bought one and used
it for 5 days. Plus for pulling the broken fence post out of the
ground). Where was I?

An internal fan with no vent ?
I hope not.

That's what one of the reviews says. I'll take a look. I'd be glad to
put a hole in the case, but it sounds like it's too late for that. But
I''ll still do the check I told Art I would do.

Maybe the thing is
ferroresonant and the noise is the
transformer.

Well mine's not humming..... because it won't do anything yet!!

The APC site claims to be "down for maintenance" at the
moment, or I'd have a look at the user manual. It could

Do I detect a note of suspicion, the quotes and all? ;-)

Anyhow I got the manual earlier today (been up since 5) and it's only
two pages long. I think it's funny that in an age where printers etc.
come with 200, 300 page manuals, they have a 2 page manual.

A longer one makes people think they're getting more for their money.
Especially when they could go on with situations like the one I asked
about, but they don't. .

be an AVR unit for example (automatic voltage regulator)
and "line interactive". That means, it is buggering
with the power at all times, one way or another.

*******

And yes, replacing batteries makes perfect sense, on the

That's what I thought, but I'm susceptible to suggestion -- in many
areas and I've known this for a long time -- so when two of them
suggested what they did, I had doubts.

mid-range ones. I paid $250 for my UPS when new, the
battery lasted *ten years*, and a new battery cost $60.

Much better than spending 250, plus it's easier to go buy a battery than
to have to shop for another UPS, evaluate features and price and all
that.

The price on batteries has come down slightly over
the years, presumably since all the batteries are made
in China. And if you take the rate of inflation into
account, the price has come down.

One secret to battery life, you can do nothing about.
But you can control the "level of discharge". I'm always
careful, if I'm in the room, to shut down the computer
loads then switch off the ATX supply, to spare the battery
when the lights go out. The shallower the discharge, the
longer they last. Don't rely on the low voltage cutoff on
the UPS itself, to "protect" the battery. The battery life
can last longer, if you take care of it.

I don't consider the UPS to be an "alternate power source",
it's merely a way to ride out one-second outages, when the

Yes. And I don't know why people need a big one. I almost never have
more than one file that hasn't been saved, and that's the file I'm
typing in at the moment. Before I leave this window, I"ll save it.
So it takes 10 seconds to save the file, 30 seconds maybe to wait for
the power to come on if it usually does, and a couple minutes to
hibernate.

utility switches over stuff. I have one computer cabled to
the automatic shutdown feature, and Windows happens to have
the right driver for that APC unit, already in Windows. For
the second computer connected to it, I shut down that
computer manually.

*******

The low end of the UPS market, the failure rate out of the
box is 10%. And the Amazon description for the XS900,
shows it just doesn't last with time.

There are different kinds of UPS architectures.
There are SPS (standby power supply). There
are AVR (automatic voltage regulation). There
are more than five different types. The SPS remains
cool to the touch, because the inverter doesn't
run when AC power is available. The battery charges
to a constant voltage (and you can stick your meter
on the battery terminals after a 24 hour charge
period and verify the terminal voltage is
correct). That's one check I could do after installing
the new battery.

The UPS has the ability to do a load test. It places
a known load on the battery for a few seconds, and checks
the resulting terminal voltage. The output impedance of
the battery is considered a health indicator. A high
impedance battery, drops to a low voltage when loaded.
A UPS which "beeps" once every 24 hours, has just done
the short load test, and found the terminal voltage
to be wanting.

And a 60W light bulb makes a fine load. It is resistive.
The load is relatively well controlled (draws 120W when
cold, has a "surge" due to the cold resistance), but
eventually settles down to 60W. If the output voltage
of the UPS is not correct (makes 200V rather than 113V),
then the color of the filament when lit gives a quick
indication of whether the output voltage is correct or
not. I can easily spot when my power here drops to 100V
at the mast, just by the color of the remaining incandescent
bulbs I use. LED bulbs on the other hand, are regulated,
and have no characteristic useful for analyzing what
the utility is doing to you.

What do they do when the voltage goes down? Just go dark like digital
TV with a weak signal?

*******

For your next curbside UPS, check the reviews and
see if the unit stinks or not. If a lot of users
complain of weird symptoms within the first year
or two, chances are fixing one up is not a wise
use of time or money.

Have fun,
Paul

In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:14:44
-0400, Paul wrote:


Check the reviews on Amazon. This is how
I judge them.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-900VA-Back...ustomerReviews

BTW, I too t hink overall the reviews are worth reading and valuable but

a) it's well known t hat people who are dissatisfied are a lot more
likely to complain than those who are satisfied are to say so.

b) in this case one guy who gave it one star said "Battery replacement
on this is far too complicated for a consumer product". But it's
actually as simple as can be. Doesn't even require a screwdriver. Just
press on the plastic where the tabs are and the big door slides open,
pour out the battery and disconnect the two wires (which have female
spade connectors, on miine. The webpage shows a battery with one 3-wire
connector, maybe even easier.)

c) Another guy who gave it five stars said "Thing has worked fabulously
for 3 years and is still working great. Every now and again, I've
removed the battery, popped off the rubber stoppers, filled with
distilled water, dried, capped off the holes with rubber stoppers,
charged each battery using a car battery charger at 3 amps, reinstalled.
These batteries just don't quit running if you maintain them properly.
To bad APC doesn't put this in the manual." The owner of Battery
Warehouse reminded me that there is no water inside, but some kind of
jelly.. What a blowhard the reviewer is.

d) one study somewhere said that there are people who complain on
online reviews when they've never even bought or used the item. It said
their reviews tended to ramble about the general topic wihtout going
into specifics about the item. Not surprising. That's why Amazon
verifies if you've bought the product from them and labels those reviews
that way.

In message , David W. Hodgins
writes:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:15:32 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

Most UPS replacement batteries are more or less standard. APC favors
12v 7.5amp for most of their low end residential/commercial UPS units.

From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc

I presume that means lead-acid. (Most of this sort of thing use "SLA" -
sealed lead-acid - which have a gel inside rather than liquid, which
means the batteries can be used any way up.)

battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0

(Sounds healthy!) I'd guess two 12-volt ones.

device.mfr: American Power Conversion
device.model: Back-UPS XS 1300G

I have no idea what to look for, when it's time to replace the battery.
Not sure where I put the manual, and am having trouble finding one
online.

Can you figure out how to open it? If so, have a look: the batteries are
usually pretty obvious. They tend to be big grey (or occasionally black)
blocks, usually with spade terminals; if you're lucky, they'll have a
label on (or text moulded into the plastic), giving voltage and amp-hour
rating; maybe also model number.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

"On the whole, I'm in favour of the state getting out of people's lives, but I
would not have a problem with voting being made compulsory. But if you did
that, you'd have to have a box for 'None of the above'."
Jeremy Paxman, quoted in RT 2015/5/2-8

micky wrote:
In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:14:44
-0400, Paul wrote:

micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

There's a doc here, if you want to see
some of the UPS types.

https://web.archive.org/web/20090521...NM3Y_R5_EN.pdf

One of the "regulating" types, would allow
the UPS to work on the same outlet as your
air conditioner, and the DVR wouldn't even
know what was happening.

Paul