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Computer power failure



 
 
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  #16  
Old November 18th 04, 05:27 PM
w_tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Removing power cord is necessary to clear power supply
lockout. Where is that lockout function located? On
motherboard. Does he keep buying new parts and swapping - or
locate problem in minutes with a meter?

Where is a standard computer system that requires anything
near to 425 watts. This is the nonsense I am exposing. 425
watts is the urban myth posted, in part, because too many
computer experts don't even learn basic functions in a power
supply. They even buy 300 watt supplies that have a 425 watt
label. That intentional mislabeling on 'dumped' power
supplies is proof enough that all computers require more than
400 watts.

Most every computer is just fine with a 250 watt supply. In
another post, the 400 watt supply also listed amperage for
each individual voltage. Bottom line was the 400 watt supply
really was only 300 watts. These 'dumped' supplies are quite
common where repairmen don't first collect facts - instead
just wildly speculate and shotgun a solution. The typical
computer system needs no where near 425 watts.

jeffrey wrote:
Sounds like a hardware problem. If you have to keep unplugging the
power supply directly from the wall socket, it could either be its
going bad or some part of the motherboard`s power integration system
is bad. Best thing to do is, either try using a different power
supply from another computer (if you have another to use), take the
current one out and have it tested.

OS wouldn`t have anything to do with it not wanting to power on.
Even when there is no OS on the computer, you should just get the
basic startup screen showing the memory check, video version,
choice of entering the bios setup, etc.

You could also just take both the power supply and mother board to
a computer store that can do hardware testing. Also, if you are
running a P4, I hear it is recommended to have a power supply
with at least 425 watts.

Jeff

Ads
  #17  
Old November 18th 04, 05:27 PM
w_tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Removing power cord is necessary to clear power supply
lockout. Where is that lockout function located? On
motherboard. Does he keep buying new parts and swapping - or
locate problem in minutes with a meter?

Where is a standard computer system that requires anything
near to 425 watts. This is the nonsense I am exposing. 425
watts is the urban myth posted, in part, because too many
computer experts don't even learn basic functions in a power
supply. They even buy 300 watt supplies that have a 425 watt
label. That intentional mislabeling on 'dumped' power
supplies is proof enough that all computers require more than
400 watts.

Most every computer is just fine with a 250 watt supply. In
another post, the 400 watt supply also listed amperage for
each individual voltage. Bottom line was the 400 watt supply
really was only 300 watts. These 'dumped' supplies are quite
common where repairmen don't first collect facts - instead
just wildly speculate and shotgun a solution. The typical
computer system needs no where near 425 watts.

jeffrey wrote:
Sounds like a hardware problem. If you have to keep unplugging the
power supply directly from the wall socket, it could either be its
going bad or some part of the motherboard`s power integration system
is bad. Best thing to do is, either try using a different power
supply from another computer (if you have another to use), take the
current one out and have it tested.

OS wouldn`t have anything to do with it not wanting to power on.
Even when there is no OS on the computer, you should just get the
basic startup screen showing the memory check, video version,
choice of entering the bios setup, etc.

You could also just take both the power supply and mother board to
a computer store that can do hardware testing. Also, if you are
running a P4, I hear it is recommended to have a power supply
with at least 425 watts.

Jeff

  #18  
Old November 18th 04, 05:45 PM
Todd Mancini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

I'll voice with most of the other folks here -- get a new (and better)
power supply. About a year ago a family member with a PC from one of
the cheaper manufacturers had the exact same problem as you are
describing. We replaced the power supply with a beefier, named-brand
PSU, and the problem went away (and stayed away).

If you PC was a low-cost purchase, it is highly likely that it shipped
with a lame power supply. Not only is 200W small, it's also likely
that the PSU is cheap and flakey.
  #19  
Old November 18th 04, 05:45 PM
Todd Mancini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

I'll voice with most of the other folks here -- get a new (and better)
power supply. About a year ago a family member with a PC from one of
the cheaper manufacturers had the exact same problem as you are
describing. We replaced the power supply with a beefier, named-brand
PSU, and the problem went away (and stayed away).

If you PC was a low-cost purchase, it is highly likely that it shipped
with a lame power supply. Not only is 200W small, it's also likely
that the PSU is cheap and flakey.
  #20  
Old November 18th 04, 08:17 PM
newtechie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Tom,

I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?

Newtechie

"w_tom" wrote in message
...
If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too
complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a
meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire
(where power supply connects to motherboard). Number
displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for
orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded
numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper
3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If
numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those
limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its
that simple - only two minutes.

Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a
supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also
can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply
integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple.
Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are
trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get
caught up trying to understand why you are doing that.
Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do
the procedure and don't even look back.

Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are
designed with significant dust accumulation already expected.
Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective
hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a
problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a
defective component, component would fail immediately. Why?
Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room
temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause
this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event
logs.

You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused
power failure. A power supply system is three components: the
PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again,
get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage
readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is
off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on.
If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post
them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone
(including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far
beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not
starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter.

Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If
you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting
those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn
how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will
accomplish far more than just fix a computer.

In the meantime, start the process of getting additional
free tools. For example, every responsible computer
manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web
site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then
start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86
or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for
his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply
integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We
must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual'
suspects.

Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a
properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected
peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have
static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier.
No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite
straight forward. You replace a part because part is
obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit
multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether
power supply is good or bad.

If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are
asking for more and future problems if the supply is a
discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower
price? Forget to include essential functions that were even
defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so
many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to
buy these 'defective by design' supplies.

Newtechie wrote:
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the
links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it.
I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that
nature.

There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting
the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the
motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer
has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and
the second 10 min.

I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room
the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to
see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that
the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but
the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit
for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn
it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord
from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on
the computer.

I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should
I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Newtechie



  #21  
Old November 18th 04, 08:17 PM
newtechie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Tom,

I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?

Newtechie

"w_tom" wrote in message
...
If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too
complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a
meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire
(where power supply connects to motherboard). Number
displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for
orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded
numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper
3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If
numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those
limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its
that simple - only two minutes.

Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a
supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also
can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply
integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple.
Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are
trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get
caught up trying to understand why you are doing that.
Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do
the procedure and don't even look back.

Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are
designed with significant dust accumulation already expected.
Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective
hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a
problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a
defective component, component would fail immediately. Why?
Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room
temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause
this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event
logs.

You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused
power failure. A power supply system is three components: the
PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again,
get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage
readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is
off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on.
If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post
them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone
(including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far
beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not
starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter.

Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If
you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting
those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn
how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will
accomplish far more than just fix a computer.

In the meantime, start the process of getting additional
free tools. For example, every responsible computer
manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web
site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then
start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86
or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for
his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply
integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We
must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual'
suspects.

Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a
properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected
peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have
static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier.
No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite
straight forward. You replace a part because part is
obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit
multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether
power supply is good or bad.

If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are
asking for more and future problems if the supply is a
discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower
price? Forget to include essential functions that were even
defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so
many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to
buy these 'defective by design' supplies.

Newtechie wrote:
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the
links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it.
I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that
nature.

There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting
the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the
motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer
has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and
the second 10 min.

I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room
the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to
see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that
the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but
the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit
for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn
it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord
from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on
the computer.

I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should
I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Newtechie



  #22  
Old November 18th 04, 08:29 PM
Bob I
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter

newtechie wrote:

Tom,

I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?

Newtechie

"w_tom" wrote in message
...

If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too
complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a
meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire
(where power supply connects to motherboard). Number
displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for
orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded
numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper
3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If
numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those
limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its
that simple - only two minutes.

Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a
supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also
can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply
integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple.
Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are
trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get
caught up trying to understand why you are doing that.
Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do
the procedure and don't even look back.

Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are
designed with significant dust accumulation already expected.
Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective
hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a
problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a
defective component, component would fail immediately. Why?
Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room
temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause
this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event
logs.

You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused
power failure. A power supply system is three components: the
PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again,
get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage
readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is
off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on.
If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post
them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone
(including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far
beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not
starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter.

Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If
you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting
those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn
how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will
accomplish far more than just fix a computer.

In the meantime, start the process of getting additional
free tools. For example, every responsible computer
manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web
site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then
start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86
or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for
his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply
integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We
must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual'
suspects.

Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a
properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected
peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have
static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier.
No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite
straight forward. You replace a part because part is
obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit
multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether
power supply is good or bad.

If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are
asking for more and future problems if the supply is a
discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower
price? Forget to include essential functions that were even
defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so
many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to
buy these 'defective by design' supplies.

Newtechie wrote:

Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the
links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it.
I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that
nature.

There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting
the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the
motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer
has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and
the second 10 min.

I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room
the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to
see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that
the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but
the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit
for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn
it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord
from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on
the computer.

I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should
I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Newtechie




  #23  
Old November 18th 04, 08:44 PM
newtechie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Thanks Bob.

"Bob I" wrote in message
...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter

newtechie wrote:

Tom,

I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?

Newtechie

"w_tom" wrote in message
...

If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too
complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a
meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire
(where power supply connects to motherboard). Number
displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for
orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded
numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper
3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If
numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those
limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its
that simple - only two minutes.

Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a
supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also
can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply
integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple.
Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are
trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get
caught up trying to understand why you are doing that.
Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do
the procedure and don't even look back.

Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are
designed with significant dust accumulation already expected.
Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective
hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a
problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a
defective component, component would fail immediately. Why?
Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room
temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause
this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event
logs.

You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused
power failure. A power supply system is three components: the
PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again,
get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage
readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is
off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on.
If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post
them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone
(including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far
beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not
starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter.

Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If
you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting
those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn
how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will
accomplish far more than just fix a computer.

In the meantime, start the process of getting additional
free tools. For example, every responsible computer
manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web
site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then
start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86
or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for
his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply
integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We
must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual'
suspects.

Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a
properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected
peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have
static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier.
No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite
straight forward. You replace a part because part is
obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit
multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether
power supply is good or bad.

If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are
asking for more and future problems if the supply is a
discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower
price? Forget to include essential functions that were even
defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so
many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to
buy these 'defective by design' supplies.

Newtechie wrote:

Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the
links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it.
I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that
nature.

There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting
the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the
motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer
has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and
the second 10 min.

I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room
the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to
see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that
the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but
the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit
for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn
it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord
from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on
the computer.

I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should
I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Newtechie






  #24  
Old November 18th 04, 09:13 PM
Bob I
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

You're welcome. one link is worth a million words :-)

newtechie wrote:

Thanks Bob.

"Bob I" wrote in message
...

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter

newtechie wrote:


Tom,

I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?

Newtechie

"w_tom" wrote in message
...


If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too
complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a
meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire
(where power supply connects to motherboard). Number
displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for
orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded
numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper
3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If
numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those
limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its
that simple - only two minutes.

Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a
supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also
can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply
integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple.
Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are
trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get
caught up trying to understand why you are doing that.
Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do
the procedure and don't even look back.

Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are
designed with significant dust accumulation already expected.
Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective
hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a
problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a
defective component, component would fail immediately. Why?
Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room
temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause
this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event
logs.

You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused
power failure. A power supply system is three components: the
PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again,
get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage
readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is
off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on.
If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post
them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone
(including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far
beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not
starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter.

Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If
you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting
those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn
how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will
accomplish far more than just fix a computer.

In the meantime, start the process of getting additional
free tools. For example, every responsible computer
manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web
site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then
start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86
or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for
his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply
integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We
must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit
multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual'
suspects.

Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a
properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected
peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have
static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier.
No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite
straight forward. You replace a part because part is
obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit
multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether
power supply is good or bad.

If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are
asking for more and future problems if the supply is a
discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower
price? Forget to include essential functions that were even
defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so
many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to
buy these 'defective by design' supplies.

Newtechie wrote:


Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the
links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it.
I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that
nature.

There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting
the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the
motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer
has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and
the second 10 min.

I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room
the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to
see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that
the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but
the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit
for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn
it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord

from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on

the computer.

I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should
I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Newtechie






  #25  
Old November 18th 04, 11:50 PM
w_tom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Computer power failure

Multimeters are so inexpensive and so ubiquitous as to be
sold in Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, and Sears. They sell
anywhere from under $20 to $100 depending on the many
additional bells and whistles you may want. All will do what
that procedure requires.

BTW some motherboards have a voltage monitor function.
Monitor is poorly calibrated. The multimeter is required even
to calibrate the motherboard voltage monitor. Just another
function for that meter.

newtechie wrote:
Tom,
I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5
digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they?
Newtechie

 




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