I killed a mouse today

About July 11th 2019 I bought a new Logitech M705 Marathon mouse From
Amazon. For the last couple weeks it has become erratic, the cursor
stops then jumps a little hop at a time, this seems to occur more and
more,tried new batteries but no help.
If I tap it lightly on the desk it works OK for a couple hours then
starts jerking again, Seems like something making a poor contact
inside,. So for the last 3 days I have been trying to contact by phone
to get an RMA but every time I get through the infamous machine voice
tells me they are unable to respond to my call, TRY AGAIN LATTER.

Well after about 30 tries I decided to give up and take the mouse apart
and see if I could find the problem.
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and tried
to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I tried a
litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right through and
tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Well so much for that mouse, I threw the deceased remains in the garbage
and am now using my old faithful M510.
I will order a new one but will stick to the M510, it seems to fit my
hand better.

Rene

On 10/31/19 7:44 PM, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
About July 11th 2019 I bought a new Logitech M705 Marathon mouse From
Amazon. For the last couple weeks it has become erratic, the cursor
stops then jumps a little hop at a time, this seems to occur more and
more,tried new batteries but no help.
If I tap it lightly on the desk it works OK for a couple hours then
starts jerking again, Seems like something making a poor contact
inside,. So for the last 3 days I have been trying to contact by phone
to get an RMA but every time I get through the infamous machine voice
tells me they are unable to respond to my call, TRY AGAIN LATTER.

Well after about 30 tries I decided to give up and take the mouse apart
and see if I could find the problem.
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and tried
to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I tried a
litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right through and
tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Well so much for that mouse, I threw the deceased remains in the garbage
and am now using my old faithful M510.
I will order a new one but will stick to the M510, it seems to fit my
hand better.

Rene

I've gotten hooked on M305's. But you got it. When you find one that
fits and works, just buy a new one. I've found my last "great choice"
to go out of stock, and have given thought to just buying another 305 as
a spare before they might go off market.

Al

Rene Lamontagne wrote:
I took my guitar picks and tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the
sides, nothing budged so I tried a litte (much) more pressure and
finally 1 pick went right through and tore off the optical sensor
assembly!!!

That seems pretty destructive for a plastic (I assume) guitar pick.

(Options; tortoise shell, nylon, stainless steel, glass, animal horn,
'vegetable' ivory)

--
Mike Easter

On 31/10/2019 23:44, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and tried
to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I tried a
litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right through and
tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Just to annoy, there are (were) two more screws under the label in the
battery compartment;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7AcbB7FrY

On 2019-10-31 7:30 p.m., Mike Easter wrote:
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
I took my guitar picks and tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the
sides, nothing budged so I tried a litte (much) more pressure and
finally 1 pick went right through and tore off the optical sensor
assembly!!!

That seems pretty destructive for a plastic (I assume) guitar pick.

(Options; tortoise shell, nylon, stainless steel, glass, animal horn,
'vegetable' ivory)


I have large powerful hands. :-)


Rene

On 2019-10-31 8:29 p.m., Patrick wrote:
On 31/10/2019 23:44, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and
tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I
tried a litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right
through and tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Just to annoy, there are (were) two more screws under the label in the
battery compartment;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7AcbB7FrY


I poked at the battery label with my Phillips screw driver but could not
feel them, I guess I should have used better lighting, (poor eyesight),
but thanks.

Rene

Rene Lamontagne wrote:

About July 11th 2019 I bought a new Logitech M705 Marathon mouse From
Amazon. For the last couple weeks it has become erratic, the cursor
stops then jumps a little hop at a time, this seems to occur more and
more,tried new batteries but no help.
If I tap it lightly on the desk it works OK for a couple hours then
starts jerking again, Seems like something making a poor contact
inside,. So for the last 3 days I have been trying to contact by phone
to get an RMA but every time I get through the infamous machine voice
tells me they are unable to respond to my call, TRY AGAIN LATTER.

Well after about 30 tries I decided to give up and take the mouse apart
and see if I could find the problem.
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and tried
to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I tried a
litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right through and
tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Well so much for that mouse, I threw the deceased remains in the garbage
and am now using my old faithful M510.
I will order a new one but will stick to the M510, it seems to fit my
hand better.

Sometimes lint or hair gets around the LED. A wee tiny flick of the
lint or hair next to the sensor makes it think there was a big quick
move, so the mouse cursor jumps on the screen. For that source of the
problem, I've been able to leave the mouse intact and use a tweezers
around the LED to pick out the lint or hair. Obviously too late to even
bother checking if there was lint or hair next to the LED in the mouse.

The Logitech M705 Marathon mouse is wireless. You never mentioned
replacing the batteries. When they get weak, mouse behavior gets
erratic. Logitech says this mouse's batteries should last 3 years.
Well, yeah, that's like LED lightbulbs that say they will last for 10
years, but only if you use them for less than 4 hours a day. I used my
mouse all day long (probably around 14 hours every day). Batteries have
never lasted me as long as the mouse maker claims, and why I either use
a corded mouse or a cordless mouse with replacable batteries. While
Logitech always overestimates how long the batteries would last, at
least for this mouse, the batteries can be replaced. Have you tried?
They're chemical, and some are defective when new. Very easy to replace
to check if the supplied batteries were crap. You rarely get
top-of-the-line included batteries.

I've used enough cordless mice to realize the type of misbehavior that
indicates weak batteries. Their easy enough to replace, so one of their
first troubleshooting steps. However, with erratic positioning as you
mentioned, I'd first check for debris around the LED.

If you choose alkaline batteries for the mouse, one piece of advice:
NEVER use Duracells in anything. The expiration date on the packaging
is how long the battery will last on the shelf and NOT used. Once
placed into service, alkalines should get replaced after a year. Once
used, don't leave in a device forever thereafter until whenever you get
around to using the device and the battery power becomes too weak. I've
had several brands of alkalines leak. Some just leave a deposit that
can be easily scrapped or pulled out, like a white caked up white
crystalline mess. Duracells are apparently more caustic and will
actually corrode the contacts making them unusable. Forget their
advertising. With enough advertising, even turds will sell.

In article , VanguardLH
wrote:

If you choose alkaline batteries for the mouse, one piece of advice:
NEVER use Duracells in anything. The expiration date on the packaging
is how long the battery will last on the shelf and NOT used. Once
placed into service, alkalines should get replaced after a year.

nonsense.

On 01/11/2019 03.53, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-10-31 7:30 p.m., Mike Easter wrote:
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
I took my guitar picks and tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at
the sides, nothing budged so I tried a litte (much) more pressure and
finally 1 pick went right through and tore off the optical sensor
assembly!!!

That seems pretty destructive for a plastic (I assume) guitar pick.

(Options; tortoise shell, nylon, stainless steel, glass, animal horn,
'vegetable' ivory)


I have large powerful hands.Â* :-)

:-D

Did you try to clean it? I suppose it is one of the "new" types without
a ball :-)

Maybe something was just on top of the optical sensor.

I use a trackball (Logitech marble track plus or something similar) and
it does need periodic cleaning of fluff inside. It doesn't stop working,
just that the ball itself moves jerkily. I have been using this same
model since 1995. I just have two of them (they are not identical,
bought on different years), both working.


--
Cheers, Carlos.

On 01/11/2019 05.36, VanguardLH wrote:
Rene Lamontagne wrote:

About July 11th 2019 I bought a new Logitech M705 Marathon mouse From
Amazon. For the last couple weeks it has become erratic, the cursor
stops then jumps a little hop at a time, this seems to occur more and
more,tried new batteries but no help.
. . . . ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If I tap it lightly on the desk it works OK for a couple hours then
starts jerking again, Seems like something making a poor contact
inside,. So for the last 3 days I have been trying to contact by phone
to get an RMA but every time I get through the infamous machine voice
tells me they are unable to respond to my call, TRY AGAIN LATTER.


The Logitech M705 Marathon mouse is wireless. You never mentioned
replacing the batteries.

He did...

--
Cheers, Carlos.

Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-10-31 8:29 p.m., Patrick wrote:
On 31/10/2019 23:44, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and
tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so
I tried a litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right
through and tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Just to annoy, there are (were) two more screws under the label in the
battery compartment;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7AcbB7FrY


I poked at the battery label with my Phillips screw driver but could not
feel them, I guess I should have used better lighting, (poor eyesight),
but thanks.

Rene

Should have taken it to the hospital and
had them Xray it for you :-)

You can wave one of these around the various
labels, and look for a deflection from any
ferrous screws. If the screw is recessed though,
this won't detect it all that well.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-8036TM-NEW...=fsclp_pl_dp_1

*******

Can you imagine the people on the production
line having to put those together ?

http://i.cdn.turner.com/cnn/2010/OPI...s.scene.gi.jpg

Paul

"Carlos E.R." wrote:

VanguardLH wrote:

Rene Lamontagne wrote:

trimmed
more,tried new batteries but no help.
. . . . ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
trimmed

The Logitech M705 Marathon mouse is wireless. You never mentioned
replacing the batteries.

He did...

Yep, missed that. Guess my eyes skipped the next line when they jumped
from the right end of the prior sentence to the left. Or I got lost in
all the commas instead of periods.

On 01/11/2019 06.16, Paul wrote:
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
On 2019-10-31 8:29 p.m., Patrick wrote:
On 31/10/2019 23:44, Rene Lamontagne wrote:
So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and
tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so
I tried a litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right
through and tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!
Just to annoy, there are (were) two more screws under the label in
the battery compartment;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7AcbB7FrY


I poked at the battery label with my Phillips screw driver but could
not feel them, I guess I should have used better lighting, (poor
eyesight), but thanks.

Rene

Should have taken it to the hospital and
had them Xray it for you :-)

You can wave one of these around the various
labels, and look for a deflection from any
ferrous screws. If the screw is recessed though,
this won't detect it all that well.

I pinch holes in the label with a thin needle.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-8036TM-NEW...=fsclp_pl_dp_1


*******

Can you imagine the people on the production
line having to put those together ?

http://i.cdn.turner.com/cnn/2010/OPI...s.scene.gi.jpg

:-D

We had one Philips TV which had the screws behind the Philips name in
relief, in plastic. Once I chanced, playing around, to slid the name a
bit to the side; and suddenly the name was in my hands and a screw or
two appeared.

Eventually I loosened them and a beautifully designed "door" opened
giving access to the front side electronics.

I think this TV came with a folded full schematic paper on the back,
with a diagnostic graph. Like check for a signal in this shape here, or
inject a signal here and test for the output here, if bad, replace this
transistor.

That they hide screws now behind paper labels is no big surprise to me.

--
Cheers, Carlos.

On Thu, 31 Oct 2019 18:44:55 -0500, Rene Lamontagne
wrote:

So I took out 1 screw at the back and 2 hidden under the feet But it
still seemed pretty well together, then I took my guitar picks and tried
to push or pull hidden J hooks at the sides, nothing budged so I tried a
litte (much) more pressure and finally 1 pick went right through and
tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!

There are 5 screws. Also check this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7AcbB7FrY
There is a lock pin you have to pull out to disassemble. Please look
about 3 minutes 20 seconds after start to see this.

--
Jesper Kaas -

"Mike Easter" wrote in message
...
Rene Lamontagne wrote:
I took my guitar picks and tried to push or pull hidden J hooks at the
sides, nothing budged so I tried a litte (much) more pressure and finally
1 pick went right through and tore off the optical sensor assembly!!!

That seems pretty destructive for a plastic (I assume) guitar pick.

(Options; tortoise shell, nylon, stainless steel, glass, animal horn,
'vegetable' ivory)

Don't forget stone- I have a beautifully polished stone pick that was given
to me years ago. Works nicely on my 6-strings, but not so great on the
12-strings I have. Gives a really nice tone on my Epi electric.
--

SC Tom