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#16
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
On Thu, 9 Aug 2018 07:15:07 -0700 (PDT), Mark Twain
wrote: The speaker hum/static sound came back today and this time I tried the diagnostics. I unplugged the speakers and tried each one in the diagnostics port for low and high frequencies and both played although they sounded the same to me. So according to the test the speakers are working normally. Afterwards the humming stopped. Robert Humming PC speakers are usually caused by a bad connection on the plug. I use corrosion block on them. https://filterace.com/images/Product/large/246.jpg |
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#17
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
The speaker hum/static sound came back today and this time I tried the diagnostics. I unplugged the speakers and tried each one in the diagnostics port for low and high frequencies and both played although they sounded the same to me. So according to the test the speakers are working normally. Afterwards the humming stopped. Robert http://stuartconnections.com/product...uide/setup.htm You could try just connecting the green connector and leave the black disconnected. Then listen for hum. The multichannel setup likely requires different balancing than the stereo (green plug only) setup. This would be something you'd attempt to adjust from a "full featured" sound control panel on the computer end. You have to adjust the output mode, play some music, and rebalance the bass and treble or adjust the multiband software equalizer. I've had a couple sound cards, where they had absolutely no bass and treble control at all. And then I have two computers now, with the "software multiband equalizer" (sound correction done with DSP software). And I've used that on occasion to correct the really bad amplifier characteristics. You adjust until the sound is natural. I'd suggest trying TOSLink, except neither end has that. (That's optical SPDIF.) TOSLink emits a red LED color from the emitter and uses "dental fiber", a relatively large diameter plastic fiber cable with high loss. The TOSLink emitter costs the manufacturer around $1. A number of motherboards have it. It's the "digital" connector in the manual. Some laptops, the green lineout connector is dual purpose, and if you look into the barrel of the green connector, you'll be greeted by red LED light output. The connector will accept some sort of TOSLink adapter to pick up the light. Another way to break a DC path between components, is with Radio Shack "wireless" extenders. Which is way too expensive to be worth it. Radio Shack also used to sell a "hum breaker", with a carefully balanced transformer inside, and that's for cases where there is a ground loop. Since the HK695 has no Safety Ground, there should not be a ground loop present. The HK695 is isolated and floating with respect to the power source. Only the PC establishes ground potential. A hum breaker should not be needed. Even a good quality hum breaker only has a 10KHz bandwidth, so it's not exactly "high fidelity". But compared to a situation that hums, it's quite acceptable. Paul |
#18
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
This is a brand new set of speakers not more
than 6 months old. Robert |
#19
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Thing is it's an intermittent problem..
I'll try working with the green plug... these are new speakers from when all the electronics in my home got fried when the guy wired it for 220 instead of 110, remember? In fact, I'm in the process of getting ductless A/C and I told them the story of the outage and re-wiring so I'm being careful not to let that happen again! Here are my sound controls for the speakers: http://i66.tinypic.com/2pzzfjr.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2w223xg.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ih07qc.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1238wa8.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/jjurf4.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/huoemv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/10seqdy.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/514rk0.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ccmp84.jpg Here's the sound controls for applications: http://i67.tinypic.com/auk0nd.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/30ii7h3.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/4t7kn6.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/120i837.jpg Robert |
#20
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
Thing is it's an intermittent problem.. I'll try working with the green plug... these are new speakers from when all the electronics in my home got fried when the guy wired it for 220 instead of 110, remember? In fact, I'm in the process of getting ductless A/C and I told them the story of the outage and re-wiring so I'm being careful not to let that happen again! Here are my sound controls for the speakers: http://i66.tinypic.com/2pzzfjr.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2w223xg.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ih07qc.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/1238wa8.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/jjurf4.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/huoemv.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/10seqdy.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/514rk0.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2ccmp84.jpg Here's the sound controls for applications: http://i67.tinypic.com/auk0nd.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/30ii7h3.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/4t7kn6.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/120i837.jpg Robert Well, reading the manual, the HK695 does two things. 1) 2.0 computer output to 2.1 speaker output 2) 4.0 computer output to 2.1 speaker output When you use both the green and the black connector, the computer should be set to "four channel", perhaps referred to in the disco era as "quadraphonic". The RealTek sound hardware, currently driven by the Microsoft driver, I don't see a reference to output mode. Whether it's 2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1 isn't clear. The panel shows you have four jacks for a total of eight channels (7.1). The thing is, the "multimedia content" on your computer, starts with an initial set of channels. If you download a typical consumer tune, it might be stereo. If you had WinAmp running, that would be 2.0 stereo source. Some sound chips have software, to "transform" the sound field of the source content (2.0 MP3, 5.1 Movie Soundtrack) to the number of channels the user selected (2.0, 2.1, 5.1, 7.1). This might be referred to as HRTF (Head Related Transfer Function). So if you were listening to a movie which only had a stereo sound track, yet you had the sound card set to 5.1, the software would "synthesize" the missing channels. It doesn't sound as good as real 5.1, but you get a slight bit more depth of field from the transformation. However, your *speakers* have their own HRTF. And your speakers only have two input modes. 2.0 and 4.0. And another factor here, is the original owner of the patent for at least one of the transfer functions, sold the patent to Creative. Creative "yanked" the licensing from it's competitors. This meant that CMedia had to pull its drivers from the website for an entire year, while they re-wrote their driver and removed the transformation matrix stuff. Source Realtek HK695 (at a guess) (not verified) 2.0 2.0 2.0 __\ 2.1 out 5.1 2.1 4.0 / 5.1 7.1 One issue, is back when sound cards were PCI, those products still had a software support for 4.0 (green jack and black jack). AFAIK, the RealTek of today, is likely missing 4.0 output. If you set the RealTek to 5.1, then the "Center/Sub" receive a signal, which in effect "subtracts some energy from front stereo and back stereo channels". So selecting 5.1 on the RealTek level, isn't "exactly right" either. In summary, you probably want to play any source you want on the left. Don't worry about that. The media player is likely to see the Realtek column is 2.0 and the source will do the right thing. The RealTek should be set to Stereo. I didn't see a setting in the Microsoft GUI admitting only the green jack has a signal on it. Once the RealTek is stereo, plug the green plug of the HK695 in. The 2.0 signal in, will have a low pass filter applied to Left and Right, and the LPFs will be mixed together. This drives the Sub unit of your speakers. Maybe the sub will be given a signal from 60Hz to around 200Hz. And the rest of the energy will come from the wine-glass side speakers. One thing I'm worried about here, is whether the hum might be coming from the HK695 HRTF digital processing or something. If the RealTek isn't driving a signal on the black plug, maybe while the plug is "floating", the HRTF inside the HK695 is doing a transform on it, and redirecting "energy" below 200Hz to the sub unit. By disconnecting the Black cable from the HK695, then in theory it should stop trying to mix in the signal from the Black pair of channels. If you had an older sound card, a PCI one, it might have the old Quadraphonic setting and with that in place, you could try the HK695 doing the 4.0 to 2.1 transformation. The front and rear speakers would be mixed to make a stereo signal. All four channels would be LPF and mixed together, to drive the sub. That's roughly how you might turn 4.0 to 2.1. ******* If you get the actual RealTek driver, the panel can look like this. https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/a...re1-png.52998/ You can look to see if it has a Quadraphonic setting and supports 4.0 or not. By clicking the orange tick boxes, you can change the output mode of the RealTek. The "dismiss" in that panel, is on the upper right. Somebody "on drugs" did the GUI design :-) It always annoys me when I see it. But I have installed that here. If you hold your mouse over the "plugs" near the top of the panel, you'll be in for a surprise (over the top visual effect). This is a Realtek driver page. Tick the "I accept". This "I accept" nonsense, prevents me from giving the direct links I'd like to use. http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...Audio%20Codecs If you're using the 64-bit OS, then *64bits* Vista, Windows7, Windows8, Windows8.1, R2.82 2017/7/26 264424k Global Windows10 Driver only (Executable file) Click the Global button and the download will begin. It'll take a while. That driver will give that goofy control panel, and the branding will be RealTek. If you don't like it, you can go to Programs and Features and remove it. The Dell "auto-updater" might try to destroy the RealTek driver install, and I don't know what the Dell stuff does when a "foreign" driver is present. If you got the driver from Dell, Dell might sneak their logo into the panel. In any case, you have options other than to use the rather boring Microsoft generic panels. In your search for the right setting for the number of plugs you're using. 2.0 green plug only 4.0 green and black plugs both used I hope the above isn't too much to digest. The sound software has really gotten out of hand. HTH, Paul |
#21
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
In message , Paul
writes: [] I hope the above isn't too much to digest. The Saved for future reference though (-: sound software has really gotten out of hand. [] A lot because they _tried_ to make things easier by implementing autosense, so the drivers and hardware between them automatically detected what you plugged in, including especially whether that was an input or an output. (Cynics could also say that that was done to reduce the number of sockets.) Last time (not recently) I played with sound setup software (I agree, done by someone on something - particularly irritating to me as part of what I do is set it up for my blind friends; too much of it is graphic only, so I have to do it for them), I _think_ it was possible to override the autosense and _tell_ it what you had connected to each socket, but I have the feeling that it creeps back, especially with "up"grades (including the ordinary Windows ones - though I've just noticed this is in the XP 'group only). -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Grief generates a huge energy in you and it's better for everybody if you harness it to do something. - Judi Dench, RT 2015/2/28-3/6 |
#22
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
It was allot to digest *L*
I disconnected the black plug and no difference, then disconnected the green plug and it lost sound. I had Realtek driver installed in programs: http://i67.tinypic.com/2rh9z5c.jpg I tried to reinstall it but it failed. I tried your link to install it but it kept giving me the 'I accept' nonsense. I tried over 10 times. How many does it take before it activates? Thanks, Robert |
#23
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
It was allot to digest *L* I disconnected the black plug and no difference, then disconnected the green plug and it lost sound. I had Realtek driver installed in programs: http://i67.tinypic.com/2rh9z5c.jpg I tried to reinstall it but it failed. I tried your link to install it but it kept giving me the 'I accept' nonsense. I tried over 10 times. How many does it take before it activates? Thanks, Robert It's in a redirect loop. Try again tomorrow. Maybe hackers broke in, and they have to restore from backup. Paul |
#24
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
I tried it again and it's still
in a re-direct loop. Robert |
#25
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I tried it again and it's still in a re-direct loop. Robert It still isn't behaving quite right. What should happen, is this URL should take you back to the "I accept" page. It's a direct link, but they won't allow me to direct link, without that stupid "I accept" page showing up instead. I was able to get here with SRWare Iron. http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false Paul |
#26
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
I was finally able to download:
http://i64.tinypic.com/2qsusuo.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/k2lpom.jpg Is this just an update because I don't see any changes. Robert |
#27
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I was finally able to download: http://i64.tinypic.com/2qsusuo.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/k2lpom.jpg Is this just an update because I don't see any changes. Robert It would be an update. In Control Panels, you should have a RealTek. You should be able to set it to Quadraphonic. That would give 4.0 for the two plugs on the HK speakers, and the HK will transform the 4.0 to 2.1 for the sub and two satellite speakers. https://s15.postimg.cc/g5d8hudgr/quadraphonic.gif Or, you can set it to stereo and use just the green plug. Paul |
#28
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
I don't seem to be able to locate the
Realtek HD Audio Manager? My setup still looks the same. http://i67.tinypic.com/bbh46.jpg Robert |
#29
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
Mark Twain wrote:
I don't seem to be able to locate the Realtek HD Audio Manager? My setup still looks the same. http://i67.tinypic.com/bbh46.jpg Robert A Google search offers this suggestion. The executable mentioned here would be on a 64-bit OS. "How do I get to Realtek HD Audio Manager? You can go to Control Panel and view items by "Large icons". Realtek HD Audio Manager can be found there. If you cannot find Realktek HD audio manager in Control Panel, browse to here C:\Program Files\Realtek\Audio\HDA\RtkNGUI64.exe. Double-click on the file to open Realtek HD audio manager. " You can see the RtkNGUI64.exe in the picture here. https://i.imgur.com/JoeZ3ux.png Another thread mentions "In Task Manager the RAVBg64.EXE (HD Audio background process) and RAVCp64.EXE (Realtek HD Audio Manager) are present in the process list." If I use sysinternals.com "Autoruns64" program, the top two entries are the RealTek ones. Example here. The entries are apparently in the registry. https://s15.postimg.cc/fnn4zh4ln/how...ts_started.gif I tried using Task Scheduler but there was nothing RealTek in there. Paul |
#30
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O.T. Speakers static/humming
I tried it several times but it doesn't do
anything when I double click it, or right click to open it or run as administrator. http://i63.tinypic.com/atu1ac.jpg So what am I doing wrong? Robert |
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