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  #136  
Old July 15th 19, 07:56 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul



Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert


The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul


Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert
Ads
  #137  
Old July 15th 19, 11:49 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul

Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert

The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul


Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert


I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul
  #138  
Old July 15th 19, 01:40 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 3:49:23 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul

Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert
The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul


Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert


I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul




Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert
  #139  
Old July 15th 19, 05:19 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 3:49:23 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul
Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert
The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul
Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert

I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul




Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert


Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.

Paul
  #140  
Old July 15th 19, 07:28 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Shadow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,638
Default Win7 support:

On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 12:19:40 -0400, Paul
wrote:

Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert


Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.


I can get the pic with wget, but not with my browser ...

He has 2 HD bays, with a 2 headed power cable (blue). So
there's power. One bay is occupied.
He only has two SATA data cables. One of which is on the HD,
one on the CD/DVD.
The motherboard only has 2 SATA slots(there's a ribbon there
that might be hiding something, I could be wrong). So unless he
unplugs that DVD and uses its data cable there is no way he can use 2
HDs. Buying a new data cable won't solve his problem.
[]'s
--
Don't be evil - Google 2004
We have a new policy - Google 2012
  #141  
Old July 15th 19, 08:06 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Shadow wrote:
On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 12:19:40 -0400, Paul
wrote:

Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert

Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.


I can get the pic with wget, but not with my browser ...

He has 2 HD bays, with a 2 headed power cable (blue). So
there's power. One bay is occupied.
He only has two SATA data cables. One of which is on the HD,
one on the CD/DVD.
The motherboard only has 2 SATA slots(there's a ribbon there
that might be hiding something, I could be wrong). So unless he
unplugs that DVD and uses its data cable there is no way he can use 2
HDs. Buying a new data cable won't solve his problem.
[]'s


I see four SATAs here, and likely two are hidden
from your view.

https://img2.parts-people.com/products/C27VVa1.JPG

( https://www.parts-people.com/index.p...=item&id=21502 )

A cable with a straight end on that end, should work
with the vertical connector. While the drive end
could well be a "left-angle" connector.

Paul
  #142  
Old July 15th 19, 10:04 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Shadow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,638
Default Win7 support:

On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 15:06:09 -0400, Paul
wrote:

Shadow wrote:
On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 12:19:40 -0400, Paul
wrote:

Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert
Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.


I can get the pic with wget, but not with my browser ...

He has 2 HD bays, with a 2 headed power cable (blue). So
there's power. One bay is occupied.
He only has two SATA data cables. One of which is on the HD,
one on the CD/DVD.
The motherboard only has 2 SATA slots(there's a ribbon there
that might be hiding something, I could be wrong). So unless he
unplugs that DVD and uses its data cable there is no way he can use 2
HDs. Buying a new data cable won't solve his problem.
[]'s


I see four SATAs here, and likely two are hidden
from your view.

https://img2.parts-people.com/products/C27VVa1.JPG


You're right. I missed 2 (black and white). The focus in the
photo was on the heatsink.
His HD power cable is already in the right position to fit in.
So he'll only need a SATA data cable.
[]'s

( https://www.parts-people.com/index.p...=item&id=21502 )

A cable with a straight end on that end, should work
with the vertical connector. While the drive end
could well be a "left-angle" connector.

Paul

--
Don't be evil - Google 2004
We have a new policy - Google 2012
  #143  
Old July 15th 19, 11:32 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 9:19:43 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 3:49:23 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul
Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert
The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul
Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert
I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul




Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert


Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.

Paul




I checked the tiny pic and it works for me.
I still have no idea what kind or make of
data cable to order?

Robert
  #144  
Old July 16th 19, 12:24 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 9:19:43 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 3:49:23 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul
Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert
The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul
Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert
I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul


Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert

Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.

Paul




I checked the tiny pic and it works for me.
I still have no idea what kind or make of
data cable to order?

Robert


OK, see if this 24" one will route OK like the
SATA data cable already in the hard drive section.
It's a left angle and the cable goes "up" when
it is plugged in.

The photo has poor contrast, and it's hard to see
the L shape.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123283

http://www.okgear.com/en/product/pro...ail.asp?id=508

Paul
  #145  
Old July 16th 19, 09:11 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 4:24:28 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 9:19:43 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 3:49:23 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Sunday, July 14, 2019 at 9:52:14 PM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2019 at 6:20:02 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

Also, it never asked me about Win 10 Pro
but I see that it installed it on both the
8500 and 780.

Robert
Apparently, it's more clever than I am.

It must be reading something about the licensing
of the machine on its own. Windows 7 OEM would use a
BIOS SLIC table. Maybe it can parse something from there,
to figure out the SKU to use. Since you didn't do a
Win10-over-Win7, it would not otherwise have a clue
what was on the machine. If you entered the key from
the COA at the key prompt, now *that* is a stronger
clue for the installer.

It's possible to "re-master" a Windows installer DVD
and remove "ei.cfg", which is supposed to cause the
menu of available OSes to appear. A recipe such as
the one I showed you for "making a DVD smaller" would
likely work, minus the DISM step. You'd extract the
DVD contents, then use oscdimg.exe to make a new DVD.
Once you'd removed ei.cfg from the folder holding
the DVD contents, of course.

Everything seems to be done at this point.

Play with Windows 10 as you see fit.

Test Classic Shell on it, if the interface bothers
you or something :-)

I use Windows 10, but I can't "surf in it all day long"
or do personal stuff in it. For me right now, it's
just an engine.

Paul
Today I tried to install the Windows 10 HD in the 780
but it only has one connector on the blue cable.

http://i63.tinypic.com/255l26f.jpg

So can I buy another cable with two connectors or am I
limited to just one HD at a time? Where would I buy it?
Newegg? Is this the data or power cable? What would I
ask for?

Thanks,
Robert
The power on the right, is already daisy-chained.

Assuming you have the original supply in there, then the spacing
would look like the picture.

If you have a replacement supply in there, the connector
to connector spacing can be different. It just means there's
more slack cable between the two drive installs.

*******

As far as the data cable is concerned, the blue part is
a "Dell-ism" and you won't find that elsewhere. Whatever
that long handle is for, other companies use a less fancy
left-angle connector.

The problem with a left-angle connector, is it can be
a nuisance to take off. It's hard to get a grip on it.

*******

There are both right angle (cable goes down) and left angle
(cable goes up) data connectors.

From the picture you show, you probably want this one.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123282

The straight end goes into the vertical motherboard
connector. The angled part is for the drive.

With your spare drive sitting in front of you,
notice how the 7 contact data portion is "L-shaped". The L
is for keying, so it only goes on one way.

Now, using the magnifier view on the Newegg web page,
eyeball how the left-angle, with the cable leading
away in the upward direction, mates properly with
the drive in its normal orientation (stick-on label
facing upwards).

It's by doing these test installs in your mind,
that you get the correct cable on the first try.

The cables without the metal jaw for retention,
are suitable for a couple hundred insertions.
The unadorned cables are a compression fit, but
the connector will wear a bit and the normal
force will go down with time, and they get a little
loose.

The cables with the metal jaw, fit tighter,
but they can be slightly harder to get off too.
If you plan on using the cables a great many times,
until the connector is worn, the jaw helps hold
things together a bit longer. In the Test Machine,
I have four without jaws, and two with jaws, to
give you some idea how arbitrary it is :-)

Pick a length suitable for the job. Measure the
current cable, and imagine in your mind how the
new cable will be routed.

It's a lot like picking shoe laces at the shoe store.
It really helps to have an old lace in your hand
for sizing.

Paul
Hmmmmmmmm I didn't think was going to be difficult.
I don't know if it's the original PSU or not since
I bought this refurbished from Staples.

I guess I should have disconnected it and taken a
picture of the end.

The link you provided is that same as the one I have
e.g. only (1) connection.

Maybe I won't do this after all, I thought this was
going to be easy so I could install the Win10 HD and be
able to switch from Win7Pro or Win10 (to practice).

As the saying goes if it isn't broke don't fix it.

In passing, I lost my Internet connection Friday even
though it showed I was connected on my end. I called
my internet provider and I was on the phone for 3 hours
with me doing most of the work and finally ended with
them creating a ticket for the problem and I would have
to wait a week before they came out.

Not 20 minutes after the call everything connected like the
lights coming back on after a power outage. It was their
problem all the time! I called back and canceled the ticket
and told them what happened.

Robert
I don't think it's hard to select a cable.

You just have to eyeball the situation and
pick a good size. If the cable is too long, then
routing it is a problem (it'll look messy).

If you got a 6 inch one, there's no way that
would be good for anything. The 6 inch ones
might work in a NUC or a miniITX maybe.

The reason the angled ones exist, is
the same reason window air conditioners have
funny right-angle plugs on the end. To make
the fit flush, so the door can close without
crushing the cable.

Paul


Well, perhaps I will try again and open up the 780
and take pictures of the end of the data cable to
show you but I obviously need two connectors not
just the one to make this work. Here's a overall
picture of the cables.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2rggqd1.jpg

Robert
Tinypic is throwing "error 503 Guru meditation" right now :-)
It's tipped over.

It's like the dialup modem era, all over again.

Paul




I checked the tiny pic and it works for me.
I still have no idea what kind or make of
data cable to order?

Robert


OK, see if this 24" one will route OK like the
SATA data cable already in the hard drive section.
It's a left angle and the cable goes "up" when
it is plugged in.

The photo has poor contrast, and it's hard to see
the L shape.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812123283

http://www.okgear.com/en/product/pro...ail.asp?id=508

Paul



I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD
connection and we need (2).

Robert
  #146  
Old July 16th 19, 12:26 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Robert in CA wrote:


I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD
connection and we need (2).

Robert


Your motherboard has four SATA connectors total,
that I can see in a picture of the motherboard.

The data cables have a *one-to-one* relationship.

SATA1 --------------- HDD1
SATA2 --------------- HDD2
SATA3 --------------- Optical drive
SATA4 --------------- Optical drive

Therefore, we want a data cable with *one* connector
on each end.

Unlike the ribbon cable era, with two connectors on
the end of the ribbon, SATA has only *one*. It's point
to point, high speed serial. That's why the cable can
be thin.

*******

SATA does support FIS, which allows more than one
drive to be put on a single cable. The standard
supports up to 15 drives off one cable. The
silicon available for this, supports 5 drives
as a practical choice (from a bandwidth perspective).
The hardware is a small box, which would not be
a convenient formfactor for inside a PC.

Mobo SATA --------- FIS ------ SATA1
Box ------ SATA2
------ SATA3
------ SATA4
------ SATA5

The cables are *still* one-to-one. But the box
handles "fan-out". It allows a motherboard
with four SATA connectors, to support *20*
drives total.

I have yet to run into someone who has bought
one of those boxes. I think the boxes were
around $100 each when they were new.

This shows the printed circuit board of a
port multiplier. With the one chip that multiplexes
things. These only work with FIS-capable SATA ports
on other pieces of equipment. Not only do you
have to look up and see whether your computer
has that... but you also have to test that it
really works.

https://www.amazon.com/Misszhang-US-.../dp/B07NW7XD9Z

When Port Multipliers first came out, they were
packaged like this.

http://www.satacable.com/cosapomubrso.html

Paul
  #147  
Old July 16th 19, 02:29 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
J. P. Gilliver (John)[_7_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 603
Default Win7 support:

In message , Paul
writes:
Robert in CA wrote:


I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD connection and we need
(2).
Robert


Your motherboard has four SATA connectors total,
that I can see in a picture of the motherboard.

The data cables have a *one-to-one* relationship.

SATA1 --------------- HDD1
SATA2 --------------- HDD2
SATA3 --------------- Optical drive
SATA4 --------------- Optical drive

Therefore, we want a data cable with *one* connector
on each end.

Unlike the ribbon cable era, with two connectors on
the end of the ribbon, SATA has only *one*. It's point
to point, high speed serial. That's why the cable can
be thin.

[]
That's the _data_ cable of course. The _power_ cable _can_ be
daisy-chained.

The power connector is the one with _more_ pins. This is because someone
took the - strange, to me - decision to use the same contacts in the
power connector as in the data connector, so they had to double-up (I
think triple for some of them) on the number of pins to get the
current-carrying capacity. (On the old ribbon [(E)IDE] drives, where
they used Molex connectors for the power, they were much bigger, so only
needed the one contact per rail. Not that those were perfect, of course:
their insertion force was high, and the extraction force required was
phenomenal!)
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf

Radio 4 is one of the reasons being British is good. It's not a subset of
Britain - it's almost as if Britain is a subset of Radio 4. - Stephen Fry, in
Radio Times, 7-13 June, 2003.
  #148  
Old July 16th 19, 05:17 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 4:26:46 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:


I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD
connection and we need (2).

Robert


Your motherboard has four SATA connectors total,
that I can see in a picture of the motherboard.

The data cables have a *one-to-one* relationship.

SATA1 --------------- HDD1
SATA2 --------------- HDD2
SATA3 --------------- Optical drive
SATA4 --------------- Optical drive

Therefore, we want a data cable with *one* connector
on each end.

Unlike the ribbon cable era, with two connectors on
the end of the ribbon, SATA has only *one*. It's point
to point, high speed serial. That's why the cable can
be thin.

*******

SATA does support FIS, which allows more than one
drive to be put on a single cable. The standard
supports up to 15 drives off one cable. The
silicon available for this, supports 5 drives
as a practical choice (from a bandwidth perspective).
The hardware is a small box, which would not be
a convenient formfactor for inside a PC.

Mobo SATA --------- FIS ------ SATA1
Box ------ SATA2
------ SATA3
------ SATA4
------ SATA5

The cables are *still* one-to-one. But the box
handles "fan-out". It allows a motherboard
with four SATA connectors, to support *20*
drives total.

I have yet to run into someone who has bought
one of those boxes. I think the boxes were
around $100 each when they were new.

This shows the printed circuit board of a
port multiplier. With the one chip that multiplexes
things. These only work with FIS-capable SATA ports
on other pieces of equipment. Not only do you
have to look up and see whether your computer
has that... but you also have to test that it
really works.

https://www.amazon.com/Misszhang-US-.../dp/B07NW7XD9Z

When Port Multipliers first came out, they were
packaged like this.

http://www.satacable.com/cosapomubrso.html

Paul




Oh, I get it now,.. here are some pics of the end
of the cable.

https://postimg.cc/Cz488RDY

https://postimg.cc/CzDgr8JT

https://postimg.cc/JHH55MNm

https://postimg.cc/5YTw0TZr

Robert
  #149  
Old July 16th 19, 06:00 PM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Paul[_32_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 11,873
Default Win7 support:

Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 4:26:46 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD
connection and we need (2).

Robert

Your motherboard has four SATA connectors total,
that I can see in a picture of the motherboard.

The data cables have a *one-to-one* relationship.

SATA1 --------------- HDD1
SATA2 --------------- HDD2
SATA3 --------------- Optical drive
SATA4 --------------- Optical drive

Therefore, we want a data cable with *one* connector
on each end.

Unlike the ribbon cable era, with two connectors on
the end of the ribbon, SATA has only *one*. It's point
to point, high speed serial. That's why the cable can
be thin.

*******

SATA does support FIS, which allows more than one
drive to be put on a single cable. The standard
supports up to 15 drives off one cable. The
silicon available for this, supports 5 drives
as a practical choice (from a bandwidth perspective).
The hardware is a small box, which would not be
a convenient formfactor for inside a PC.

Mobo SATA --------- FIS ------ SATA1
Box ------ SATA2
------ SATA3
------ SATA4
------ SATA5

The cables are *still* one-to-one. But the box
handles "fan-out". It allows a motherboard
with four SATA connectors, to support *20*
drives total.

I have yet to run into someone who has bought
one of those boxes. I think the boxes were
around $100 each when they were new.

This shows the printed circuit board of a
port multiplier. With the one chip that multiplexes
things. These only work with FIS-capable SATA ports
on other pieces of equipment. Not only do you
have to look up and see whether your computer
has that... but you also have to test that it
really works.

https://www.amazon.com/Misszhang-US-.../dp/B07NW7XD9Z

When Port Multipliers first came out, they were
packaged like this.

http://www.satacable.com/cosapomubrso.html

Paul




Oh, I get it now,.. here are some pics of the end
of the cable.

https://postimg.cc/Cz488RDY

https://postimg.cc/CzDgr8JT

https://postimg.cc/JHH55MNm

https://postimg.cc/5YTw0TZr

Robert


It occurs to me, that the drives are upside-down
in the dual rack area.

When I hold a drive right-side-up (label upwards), the
power connector is on the left.

In your pictures, the daisy chained power cable is
on the right.

So the drives must be upside-down for that current
cabling scheme to work.

Compare this right-angle cable to yours.
Check the length, leave enough slack to reach the other
two motherboard SATA connectors. Since the drive seems upside-down,
it's probably a right-angle connector.

https://www.newegg.com/red-startech-...82E16812200048

Paul
  #150  
Old July 17th 19, 01:15 AM posted to microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Robert in CA
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default Win7 support:

On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 10:01:01 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 4:26:46 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:

I see what you mean by the 'L' now.... I'll
open the 780 up and have a look and take pics
but the OKGear Sata cable still only (1) HD
connection and we need (2).

Robert
Your motherboard has four SATA connectors total,
that I can see in a picture of the motherboard.

The data cables have a *one-to-one* relationship.

SATA1 --------------- HDD1
SATA2 --------------- HDD2
SATA3 --------------- Optical drive
SATA4 --------------- Optical drive

Therefore, we want a data cable with *one* connector
on each end.

Unlike the ribbon cable era, with two connectors on
the end of the ribbon, SATA has only *one*. It's point
to point, high speed serial. That's why the cable can
be thin.

*******

SATA does support FIS, which allows more than one
drive to be put on a single cable. The standard
supports up to 15 drives off one cable. The
silicon available for this, supports 5 drives
as a practical choice (from a bandwidth perspective).
The hardware is a small box, which would not be
a convenient formfactor for inside a PC.

Mobo SATA --------- FIS ------ SATA1
Box ------ SATA2
------ SATA3
------ SATA4
------ SATA5

The cables are *still* one-to-one. But the box
handles "fan-out". It allows a motherboard
with four SATA connectors, to support *20*
drives total.

I have yet to run into someone who has bought
one of those boxes. I think the boxes were
around $100 each when they were new.

This shows the printed circuit board of a
port multiplier. With the one chip that multiplexes
things. These only work with FIS-capable SATA ports
on other pieces of equipment. Not only do you
have to look up and see whether your computer
has that... but you also have to test that it
really works.

https://www.amazon.com/Misszhang-US-.../dp/B07NW7XD9Z

When Port Multipliers first came out, they were
packaged like this.

http://www.satacable.com/cosapomubrso.html

Paul




Oh, I get it now,.. here are some pics of the end
of the cable.

https://postimg.cc/Cz488RDY

https://postimg.cc/CzDgr8JT

https://postimg.cc/JHH55MNm

https://postimg.cc/5YTw0TZr

Robert


It occurs to me, that the drives are upside-down
in the dual rack area.

When I hold a drive right-side-up (label upwards), the
power connector is on the left.

In your pictures, the daisy chained power cable is
on the right.

So the drives must be upside-down for that current
cabling scheme to work.

Compare this right-angle cable to yours.
Check the length, leave enough slack to reach the other
two motherboard SATA connectors. Since the drive seems upside-down,
it's probably a right-angle connector.

https://www.newegg.com/red-startech-...82E16812200048

Paul


24 inches seems the right length but I'll
open it up again and and get a approximate
measurement to make sure.

Where on the motherboard am I'm plugging this
in? For example to the right of the Intel chip?
or is it along the edge where the blue and orange
cable are plugged in?


Thanks,
Robert
 




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