If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood
wrote: On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells. Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels. I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the voltage works. I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name. |
Ads |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:40:51 -0500, Wolf K wrote:
On 2017-01-31 11:07, Keith Nuttle wrote: On 1/31/2017 10:13 AM, Char Jackson wrote: On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 08:08:32 -0500, knuttle wrote: I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks. I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24 months. I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use. My wireless (BlueTooth) mouse has a switch. I turn it off when not in use. Sofar, it's lasted almost 3 years. The M705 also has a switch, but I only use it when I'm tossing the mouse into my backpack for travel. For everyday use, there's no need to turn it off. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoftwireless mice work?
On 1/31/2017 8:20 AM, RS Wood wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells. Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels. I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the voltage works. Here's the Costco Item #1083517 battery package which I think I paid 30 bucks for 8 AA batteries and 4 AAA batteries, and a charger, so it's impossible to figure out the price per battery. If we assume the charger is about one third to one half the price that leaves the 12 batteries at about $1.50 to $1.25 per battery. https://www.costco.com/Panasonic-Ene...100308742.html The Kirkland AAA batteries I currently have in the Logitech mouse is Costco Item #1083517 which is $20 for 64 batteries, or 31 cents each. https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Sign...100308039.html The Kirkland AA battery I have in the Microsoft mouse is Costco Item #922275 at $19 for 72 batteries, or 26 cents each. https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Sign...100308038.html I've had good luck with eneloops in 2xAA keyboards. They just don't have enough voltage for single AA mice. I just use alkalines in all these devices. I worry more about leaky batteries due to old age than the cost of the cells. Can't remember the last time I changed 'em. I'm guessing that Bluetooth mice would use more juice and might be better candidates for NiMH cells. All my BT mice are two-cell. I've never used one long enough to know or care about battery life. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoftwireless mice work?
Char Jackson wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells. Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels. I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the voltage works. I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name. They're nickel metal hydride. "A lot safer technology" :-) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop low self-discharge NiMH developed by Sanyo (later acquired by Panasonic) The low self-discharge would make them good for a mouse. Paul |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:47:54 -0600, Char Jackson wrote:
I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name. Funny you mention that because I have the older Sanyo green paper ones from Costco and the Sanyo branded chargers too, so, I have both, but I never realized Sanyo Eneloops became Panasonic Eneloops (changing from green to blue in the process). The reason I say they're crappy should be stated that they're really not high density. You can just tell from how light they are although I should look at the amp-hour figures on the side which is the spec I'm discussing. I find, in use, they go flat sooner than do akalines, which is why I call them 'crappy'. In effect, they're just not high charge density. I don't think I'll ever buy them again though, although I have at least three of the chargers so I've bought them at least three times. The reason is that the chargers require pairs, and there is really no good reason for that. If I needed more, I'd spend the time to find two things: 1. A charger that charges individual cells (they don't cost any more) 2. Batteries with higher charge density (aka amp hours) If you know of any, let us know. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoftwireless mice work?
On 1/31/2017 10:38 AM, RS Wood wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:47:54 -0600, Char Jackson wrote: I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name. Funny you mention that because I have the older Sanyo green paper ones from Costco and the Sanyo branded chargers too, so, I have both, but I never realized Sanyo Eneloops became Panasonic Eneloops (changing from green to blue in the process). The reason I say they're crappy should be stated that they're really not high density. You can just tell from how light they are although I should look at the amp-hour figures on the side which is the spec I'm discussing. I find, in use, they go flat sooner than do akalines, which is why I call them 'crappy'. In effect, they're just not high charge density. I don't think I'll ever buy them again though, although I have at least three of the chargers so I've bought them at least three times. The reason is that the chargers require pairs, and there is really no good reason for that. If I needed more, I'd spend the time to find two things: 1. A charger that charges individual cells (they don't cost any more) 2. Batteries with higher charge density (aka amp hours) If you know of any, let us know. The enloops seem to have the best reputation of ANY NiMH LSD cells. I quit buying other brands. They have gone thru several generations. Newer ones seem to have backed down the capacity spec in favor of lower self-discharge. I found that the versions sold by Costco seem to be not the latest version. Not sure that matters much tho. The charger supplied with the packages has also changed over the years. Went from individual charge to pairs and back to individual. Most of my devices use 1 or 3 cells, so individual charge is important to me too. The charger currently at Costco is the BQ-CC55. Charges individual cells and has much better indication of state of charge than previous versions. For high current loads, eneloops are vastly superior to alkalines for cost. I've also never had one leak and destroy the device. That seems to be happening more and more with alkalines. I wouldn't buy a Duracell unless I intended to use it up soon. For low current devices, the cost differential is irrelevant. Many devices, especially older ones, NiMH spends most of it's discharge capacity at a voltage too low for reliable operation. None of my "atomic" clocks will run more than a week on NiMH before the voltage gets too low. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to makeLogitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
On 1/31/2017 12:43 PM, Char Jackson wrote:
I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24 months. I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use. Duracell alkaline. I'm on my 4th M705, (the switch under the left button wears out), and all of them eat batteries at the rate of a pair every 18-24 months, so if you have an M705 that eats batteries in 4 weeks, something is definitely wrong. I also use Alkaline batteries, and turn of the mouse when ever I am not using it. I have tried several wireless mice, with the same results. Still use batteries at a rate of every 3 to 4 weeks. I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse when I accidentally put the wire out of it. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoftwireless mice work?
Wolf K wrote:
On 2017-01-31 15:05, Keith Nuttle wrote: On 1/31/2017 12:43 PM, Char Jackson wrote: I replace the batteries in my Logitech M705 wireless mouse every 18-24 months. I have a Logitech M705 mouse. What kind of batteries do you use. Duracell alkaline. I'm on my 4th M705, (the switch under the left button wears out), and all of them eat batteries at the rate of a pair every 18-24 months, so if you have an M705 that eats batteries in 4 weeks, something is definitely wrong. I also use Alkaline batteries, and turn of the mouse when ever I am not using it. I have tried several wireless mice, with the same results. Still use batteries at a rate of every 3 to 4 weeks. I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse I'm using lithium batteries for everything these days. They cost about 4x as much as bargain alkalines and last 8x to 10x longer. Have a good day, This article will make it clear what you bought. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery "Lithium-iron", "Li/Fe". Called "voltage-compatible" lithium, because it can work as a replacement for alkaline batteries with its 1.5 V nominal voltage. As such, Energizer lithium cells of AA and AAA size employ this chemistry. 2.5 times higher lifetime for high current discharge regime than alkaline batteries, better storage life due to lower self-discharge, 10–20 years storage time. FeS2 is cheap. Cathode often designed as a paste of iron sulfide powder mixed with powdered graphite. Variant is Li-CuFeS2. That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery pack cell. If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up. Look at the nice discharge curve. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...mary_batteries Paul |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to makeLogitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote:
That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery pack cell. If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up. Look at the nice discharge curve. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...mary_batteries I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get about 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced. So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the lithium AA batteries. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
"Paul" wrote in message news Char Jackson wrote: On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 16:20:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: On Tue, 31 Jan 2017 11:33:58 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood wrote: The crappy Lithium ones that Costco sells. Enviro brand I think they're called. Blue paper labels. I got the brand name wrong. It's Eneloop. Panasonic really. I put as set of the Lithium Metal Hydride batteries on the Panasonic charger that came with them from Costco so I can test it out later in the day to see if the voltage works. I bought some Eneloop rechargeables back in 2009-2010 and they came branded as Sanyo. It's interesting that Panasonic now uses that name. They're nickel metal hydride. "A lot safer technology" :-) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop low self-discharge NiMH developed by Sanyo (later acquired by Panasonic) The low self-discharge would make them good for a mouse. Paul Dating back to when digital cameras ran on AA, I was using Eneloops with great results. My Pentax Kx camera ran on Eneloops with fairly demanding needs. My Pentax K5II uses specialty batteries but has a AA adapter for the grip that I keep for emergencies... my bag moves from house to car and sits there for 8 or 12 hours at a time with only topping off the charge once or twice a year... and when I had just such an emergency a while back they performed just fine. I have a 2meter radio hand unit that I have an adapter for a trunk mount antenna and lighter fed battery pack in the car that it is nearly always running on (wtih a cabled mic it is nearly a hard-wire). I rarely use the radio outside of the car but when I do, the battery pack adapter with Eneloops in it (that are in the glove through 100F or -10F weather) always has enough ummmpfff to operate for a fair number of hours. I run my Logitech M305 on an Eneloop that lasts a few months, always on, with changing amounts of use. Since I am using them in clocks and such, as well, I keep a little container for dead and one for charged and when I get 4 dead I put them in my LaCrosse BC-700 charger on 200 charge (the lower the charge rate the longer the battery lives and so far I think they pretty much live forever) overnight and I'm good to go. I have more than I need and bought them at Amazon. I love my Eneloops and wouldn't use anything else. Here is an article, somewhat dated now, that talks about test results on these batteries. I thought I had a link here for an updated version but I guess not. http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/l...discharge.html |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
"Keith Nuttle" wrote in message news On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote: That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery pack cell. If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up. Look at the nice discharge curve. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...mary_batteries I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get about 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced. So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the lithium AA batteries. Yes. See my reply elsewhere in this thread. Have used Eneloops from Amazon for cameras for years. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
En el artículo , knuttle
escribió: I to am using a wired mouse, as in my experience the wireless have to have their batteries replaced about once every three or four weeks. Oh, how *awful*. You poor dear. -- (\_/) (='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10 (")_(") |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
In message , Wolf K
writes: On 2017-01-31 15:05, Keith Nuttle wrote: [] I wish I could find one that last as I usually loose the wired mouse [] It's a while since I saw one, but then I haven't looked for it: a mouse that went into a charger when not in use. (I think it used some ordinary AA type of rechargeable - might even have been two.) I _think_ the charger plugged into USB (actually I think it was combined with the wireless receiver, so was on the desk anyway). -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Cumulatively, however, they do get my goat, on my wick and up my nose, to the extent I am angry enough to stick a wick up a goat's nose and to hell with the consequences. - Eddie Mair, RT 2016/2/27-3/4 |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to make Logitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
In message , Keith Nuttle
writes: On 1/31/2017 6:29 PM, Paul wrote: That's not the same chemistry as a laptop battery pack cell. If the price was good on those, I'd snap them up. Look at the nice discharge curve. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...mary_batteries I use Lithium AA bateries in my camera. (Olympus SP-590UZ) I do not take a lot of pictures. If I put alkaline batteries in the camrea I get about 2 to four weeks before they have to be replaced. So in this device with my useage it, is cost effective to use the lithium AA batteries. I use ordinary nickel metal hydride, but the sort that have longer retention times (lower self-discharge). A lot of them claim at least 90% charge remaining after a year; the "normal" NiMH type seem to me to run down (i. e. self-discharge, even if not in anything) in sufficiently few weeks (I too take few pictures) that my "spare set" were often no good when I needed them. The longer retention types (many of the common makes make a variety with this property, as well as own-brand [such as, in UK, 7dayshop]) tend to cost about the same, but have somewhat lower capacity - the current limit seems to be, for AA, about 2.9 Ah (2900 mAh if you must!) for the "normal" type, and about 2 Ah for the low-discharge type. (For me, the chance of them actually having any charge left when I want them far outweighs the lower theoretical capacity.) Since I became aware of these type, I've not bought any of the other. They (the low-self-discharge ones) are often sold charged, unlike normal rechargeables; I've used some I bought (since they were a good price in one of our discount supermarkets [Lidl]) well over a year after I bought them, and they were fine (still had plenty of go in them). -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf Cumulatively, however, they do get my goat, on my wick and up my nose, to the extent I am angry enough to stick a wick up a goat's nose and to hell with the consequences. - Eddie Mair, RT 2016/2/27-3/4 |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
AA batteries was What needs to be done to makeLogitech/Microsoft wireless mice work?
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
It's a while since I saw one, but then I haven't looked for it: a mouse that went into a charger when not in use. I've used bluetooth mice that take AA batteries for ages (I've just had to retire a 15 year old one due to sticky rubber issues) I would have preferred to stick with AA, but other factors meant the replacement has a rechargeable LiPo battery which is charged by a microUSB cable that attaches where the mouse lead would come out of a wired mouse, so you can use it reasonably well even while charging. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|