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#16
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Computer power failure
Removing power cord is necessary to clear power supply
lockout. Where is that lockout function located? On motherboard. Does he keep buying new parts and swapping - or locate problem in minutes with a meter? Where is a standard computer system that requires anything near to 425 watts. This is the nonsense I am exposing. 425 watts is the urban myth posted, in part, because too many computer experts don't even learn basic functions in a power supply. They even buy 300 watt supplies that have a 425 watt label. That intentional mislabeling on 'dumped' power supplies is proof enough that all computers require more than 400 watts. Most every computer is just fine with a 250 watt supply. In another post, the 400 watt supply also listed amperage for each individual voltage. Bottom line was the 400 watt supply really was only 300 watts. These 'dumped' supplies are quite common where repairmen don't first collect facts - instead just wildly speculate and shotgun a solution. The typical computer system needs no where near 425 watts. jeffrey wrote: Sounds like a hardware problem. If you have to keep unplugging the power supply directly from the wall socket, it could either be its going bad or some part of the motherboard`s power integration system is bad. Best thing to do is, either try using a different power supply from another computer (if you have another to use), take the current one out and have it tested. OS wouldn`t have anything to do with it not wanting to power on. Even when there is no OS on the computer, you should just get the basic startup screen showing the memory check, video version, choice of entering the bios setup, etc. You could also just take both the power supply and mother board to a computer store that can do hardware testing. Also, if you are running a P4, I hear it is recommended to have a power supply with at least 425 watts. Jeff |
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#17
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Computer power failure
Removing power cord is necessary to clear power supply
lockout. Where is that lockout function located? On motherboard. Does he keep buying new parts and swapping - or locate problem in minutes with a meter? Where is a standard computer system that requires anything near to 425 watts. This is the nonsense I am exposing. 425 watts is the urban myth posted, in part, because too many computer experts don't even learn basic functions in a power supply. They even buy 300 watt supplies that have a 425 watt label. That intentional mislabeling on 'dumped' power supplies is proof enough that all computers require more than 400 watts. Most every computer is just fine with a 250 watt supply. In another post, the 400 watt supply also listed amperage for each individual voltage. Bottom line was the 400 watt supply really was only 300 watts. These 'dumped' supplies are quite common where repairmen don't first collect facts - instead just wildly speculate and shotgun a solution. The typical computer system needs no where near 425 watts. jeffrey wrote: Sounds like a hardware problem. If you have to keep unplugging the power supply directly from the wall socket, it could either be its going bad or some part of the motherboard`s power integration system is bad. Best thing to do is, either try using a different power supply from another computer (if you have another to use), take the current one out and have it tested. OS wouldn`t have anything to do with it not wanting to power on. Even when there is no OS on the computer, you should just get the basic startup screen showing the memory check, video version, choice of entering the bios setup, etc. You could also just take both the power supply and mother board to a computer store that can do hardware testing. Also, if you are running a P4, I hear it is recommended to have a power supply with at least 425 watts. Jeff |
#18
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Computer power failure
I'll voice with most of the other folks here -- get a new (and better)
power supply. About a year ago a family member with a PC from one of the cheaper manufacturers had the exact same problem as you are describing. We replaced the power supply with a beefier, named-brand PSU, and the problem went away (and stayed away). If you PC was a low-cost purchase, it is highly likely that it shipped with a lame power supply. Not only is 200W small, it's also likely that the PSU is cheap and flakey. |
#19
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Computer power failure
I'll voice with most of the other folks here -- get a new (and better)
power supply. About a year ago a family member with a PC from one of the cheaper manufacturers had the exact same problem as you are describing. We replaced the power supply with a beefier, named-brand PSU, and the problem went away (and stayed away). If you PC was a low-cost purchase, it is highly likely that it shipped with a lame power supply. Not only is 200W small, it's also likely that the PSU is cheap and flakey. |
#20
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Computer power failure
Tom,
I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie "w_tom" wrote in message ... If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire (where power supply connects to motherboard). Number displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper 3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its that simple - only two minutes. Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple. Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get caught up trying to understand why you are doing that. Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do the procedure and don't even look back. Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are designed with significant dust accumulation already expected. Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a defective component, component would fail immediately. Why? Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event logs. You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused power failure. A power supply system is three components: the PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again, get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on. If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone (including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter. Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will accomplish far more than just fix a computer. In the meantime, start the process of getting additional free tools. For example, every responsible computer manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86 or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier. No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite straight forward. You replace a part because part is obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether power supply is good or bad. If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are asking for more and future problems if the supply is a discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower price? Forget to include essential functions that were even defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to buy these 'defective by design' supplies. Newtechie wrote: Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it. I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that nature. There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and the second 10 min. I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on the computer. I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Newtechie |
#21
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Computer power failure
Tom,
I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie "w_tom" wrote in message ... If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire (where power supply connects to motherboard). Number displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper 3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its that simple - only two minutes. Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple. Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get caught up trying to understand why you are doing that. Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do the procedure and don't even look back. Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are designed with significant dust accumulation already expected. Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a defective component, component would fail immediately. Why? Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event logs. You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused power failure. A power supply system is three components: the PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again, get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on. If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone (including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter. Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will accomplish far more than just fix a computer. In the meantime, start the process of getting additional free tools. For example, every responsible computer manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86 or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier. No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite straight forward. You replace a part because part is obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether power supply is good or bad. If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are asking for more and future problems if the supply is a discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower price? Forget to include essential functions that were even defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to buy these 'defective by design' supplies. Newtechie wrote: Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it. I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that nature. There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and the second 10 min. I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on the computer. I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Newtechie |
#22
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Computer power failure
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter
newtechie wrote: Tom, I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie "w_tom" wrote in message ... If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire (where power supply connects to motherboard). Number displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper 3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its that simple - only two minutes. Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple. Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get caught up trying to understand why you are doing that. Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do the procedure and don't even look back. Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are designed with significant dust accumulation already expected. Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a defective component, component would fail immediately. Why? Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event logs. You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused power failure. A power supply system is three components: the PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again, get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on. If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone (including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter. Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will accomplish far more than just fix a computer. In the meantime, start the process of getting additional free tools. For example, every responsible computer manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86 or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier. No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite straight forward. You replace a part because part is obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether power supply is good or bad. If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are asking for more and future problems if the supply is a discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower price? Forget to include essential functions that were even defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to buy these 'defective by design' supplies. Newtechie wrote: Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it. I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that nature. There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and the second 10 min. I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on the computer. I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Newtechie |
#23
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Computer power failure
Thanks Bob.
"Bob I" wrote in message ... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter newtechie wrote: Tom, I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie "w_tom" wrote in message ... If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire (where power supply connects to motherboard). Number displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper 3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its that simple - only two minutes. Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple. Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get caught up trying to understand why you are doing that. Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do the procedure and don't even look back. Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are designed with significant dust accumulation already expected. Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a defective component, component would fail immediately. Why? Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event logs. You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused power failure. A power supply system is three components: the PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again, get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on. If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone (including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter. Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will accomplish far more than just fix a computer. In the meantime, start the process of getting additional free tools. For example, every responsible computer manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86 or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier. No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite straight forward. You replace a part because part is obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether power supply is good or bad. If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are asking for more and future problems if the supply is a discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower price? Forget to include essential functions that were even defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to buy these 'defective by design' supplies. Newtechie wrote: Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it. I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that nature. There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and the second 10 min. I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on the computer. I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Newtechie |
#24
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Computer power failure
You're welcome. one link is worth a million words :-)
newtechie wrote: Thanks Bob. "Bob I" wrote in message ... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...git+multimeter newtechie wrote: Tom, I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie "w_tom" wrote in message ... If that procedure to verify power supply integrity is too complex, then you are reading too much into it. You take a meter. You put meter leads on black wire and yellow wire (where power supply connects to motherboard). Number displayed on meter is recorded on paper. Repeat this for orange wire, red wire, etc. When done, compare those recorded numbers with numbers in chart. If numbers are within (upper 3/4) limits, then power supply is just fine - move on. If numbers are below limits (or within bottom 1/4 of those limits), then power supply is probably slowly failing. Its that simple - only two minutes. Again, it takes many times more minutes even to swap a supply. Do not start wildly replacing things since that also can complicate your solution. Procedure to verify power supply integrity is that quick, that comprehensive, and that simple. Nothing in those procedures is complex (except if you are trying to learn too soon why you are doing things). Don't get caught up trying to understand why you are doing that. Learning the whys comes later with your next questions. Do the procedure and don't even look back. Also ignore nonsense about removing dust. Computers are designed with significant dust accumulation already expected. Furthermore, those who install too many fans to fix defective hardware have excessive dust accumulation. If heat was a problem, then when hair dryer (on high) was directed to a defective component, component would fail immediately. Why? Everything in that computer must work just fine even when room temperature is above 100 degree F. OS also will not cause this. If OS did, then fact would probably be posted in event logs. You have a perfect situation to learn which component caused power failure. A power supply system is three components: the PSU, a controller on motherboard, and power switch. Again, get the meter. You cannot see electrons. Record voltage readings of purple, green, and gray (etc) wires when power is off AND when power switch is pressed AND when computer is on. If you don't understand what those readings mean, then post them here. You problem is that you are starving everyone (including yourself) of important facts. I can take you far beyond what other posters can accomplish BUT you must not starve me of facts. Get the 3.5 digit multimeter. Blindly follow the procedure in those previous posts. If you don't understand, then post numbers here. Collecting those numbers should take but a few minutes. You will learn how to fish rather than just be feed fish. IOW you will accomplish far more than just fix a computer. In the meantime, start the process of getting additional free tools. For example, every responsible computer manufacturer provides comprehensive diagnostics on their web site - for free. If manufacturer is not so responsible, then start collecting freeware diagnostics such as memory (Memtst86 or Docmem), components (ie go to hard drive manufacturer for his diagnostics), etc. Once we establish power supply integrity, then we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. We must first verify power supply integrity with the 3.5 digit multimeter long before we can move on to other 'usual' suspects. Some obvious questions - your computer is plugged into a properly safety grounded three prong outlet. All connected peripherals share a common safety ground. You don't have static electricity problems - the building has a humidifier. No reason to assume anything. Computer repair is really quite straight forward. You replace a part because part is obviously defective. In but two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter, you have all the facts necessary to say whether power supply is good or bad. If you do start looking at power supplies, then you are asking for more and future problems if the supply is a discounted (less than $60 retail) type. How do they lower price? Forget to include essential functions that were even defacto standard 30 years ago. Its called dumping. And so many North Americans have so little computer knowledge as to buy these 'defective by design' supplies. Newtechie wrote: Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. I went and read over the postings from the links suggested. I'm sorry but I did not understand any of it. I'm not too familiar with power supplies and hardware of that nature. There are no errors in event viewer. I've gone as far as dusting the fans to no avail. I unhooked the power supply from the motherboard and replugged it in. Still nothing. The computer has cut off twice in a 45 min. time frame. The first 20 min and the second 10 min. I'm beginning to rule out an overheating problem because the room the computer is in is very cold and I took the side casing off to see if that would help the inside breath a little. I noticed that the green power light on the front of the computer remained on, but the power supply light on the back wasn't. I let the computer sit for 15 min. in case overheating was a factor and then tried to turn it back on but it did not power up. I again had to unplug the cord from the back of the power supply, reconnect and then power on the computer. I don't know if the O/S could be causing this. Could it? Should I now assume I have a faulty power supply? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Newtechie |
#25
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Computer power failure
Multimeters are so inexpensive and so ubiquitous as to be
sold in Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, and Sears. They sell anywhere from under $20 to $100 depending on the many additional bells and whistles you may want. All will do what that procedure requires. BTW some motherboards have a voltage monitor function. Monitor is poorly calibrated. The multimeter is required even to calibrate the motherboard voltage monitor. Just another function for that meter. newtechie wrote: Tom, I'll be more than happy to try your suggestion(s) but I don't what a 3.5 digit multimeter is or where to buy one. How much are they? Newtechie |
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